Nute burn or deficiency

chlorosis. You have a lockout of nitrogen with causes other deficiencys. i would run water and hygrozyme. enzymes are meant to help clean roots, and turn trash into viable food for your medium. first use it at 8 ml a gallon the first flush, then 4 ml a gallon the next one, then just water. you do not need to water log your plants. water them just a little more then what u would normally water them. if u have instagram go to Pre_Calyx and those r my plants. But, u have a nutrient lockout. and it reminds me of chlorosis. so, flush with hygrozyme, then after doing that 2twice and once with reg water, use half the amount you were using and slowly build up until your root zone is substantial enough. you need to learn the difference btween nitrate nitrogen and ammonium nitrogen. ammonium nitrogen is what will help you with a quick fix. nitrate nitrogen is the type of nitrogen where your plant will intake it whether it needs it or not, too much will cause burn, and other definciencys like weak roots. too much amonium nitrogen and you get soft, rank, growth, especially in lower lighting, cooler conditions. so, in the begining think of your babies like actual babies, untilt they develop there root zones. Im strictly organic now, but ive done just about everything. When dealing with coco, you just want to constantly give the plant its microherd (mychorrizae and bacterium) and if ur doing synthetics, then u always need to PH to 6.0 because your taking in account for the calcium and shit in the coco.

Hey indica thanks for the help! Question you said flush with the hygrozyme with 8ml per gallon then 4ml a gallon the next and then just flush with reg water. Is this 3 flushs in one sitting or is it 1 flush wait till the next watering and then you flush with 4ml and the. Wait ect... Also you said I should be watering with a PH of 6.0 because of calcium in the coco? I thought you had to had calcium in coco because it lacked it? I've been adding calmag because I was getting calcium defficencies. Tha is again for your help I'll be flushing today just don't know whether it would be with hygrozyme or florakleen.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=142846 read through the first couple pages at least. To get a better understanding, i may not have explained it 100% correct. It has to do with the cation exchange capacity the coco. When flushing because of nutrient burn, you use 8ml per gal today, then two days use 4 ml per gal, then in another 2 days you can just use regular R.O water. Then 2 or 3 days after that (make sure your waiting for the media to dry) use ur grow at 1/4 strength. then 1/2, then3/4 so by the 2nd week after you've flushed out all the bullshit, you should be back up to full dose, and the plant being able to take it. but, i highly suggest, adding mychorrizae along with the hygrozyme so that while the hygrozyme is cleaning the roots, and excess salts off, the mychorizzae will go to town on what food is in your media. but, when using coco, you need to add camg because of the process that the coco coir goes through prior to us being able to use it. Not many brands pre wash their coco in camg, like empire does. Im a hygrozyme person, but it seems florakleen does the same. i would suggest using hygrozyme bc u can use microbes like great white at the same time. the florakleen im not sure whats in it, it would probably kill the microbial life

Thanks again indica! Question is mykos the same as the mychorizzae? I have mykos amended in my coco and it's by extreme gardening? Or should I use somthing else to add to the hygrozyme? Thanks again for the help.

indica4sativa said:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=142846 read through the first couple pages at least. To get a better understanding, i may not have explained it 100% correct. It has to do with the cation exchange capacity the coco. When flushing because of nutrient burn, you use 8ml per gal today, then two days use 4 ml per gal, then in another 2 days you can just use regular R.O water. Then 2 or 3 days after that (make sure your waiting for the media to dry) use ur grow at 1/4 strength. then 1/2, then3/4 so by the 2nd week after you've flushed out all the bullshit, you should be back up to full dose, and the plant being able to take it. but, i highly suggest, adding mychorrizae along with the hygrozyme so that while the hygrozyme is cleaning the roots, and excess salts off, the mychorizzae will go to town on what food is in your media. but, when using coco, you need to add camg because of the process that the coco coir goes through prior to us being able to use it. Not many brands pre wash their coco in camg, like empire does. Im a hygrozyme person, but it seems florakleen does the same. i would suggest using hygrozyme bc u can use microbes like great white at the same time. the florakleen im not sure whats in it, it would probably kill the microbial life

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hey indica, just a quick theory, I obviously have some sort of nute lock out of some sort. My EC before I watered my plants was at 1.7 making it 850 PPM my RO water has a starting PPM of EC.5 due to alkalinity filter. Making my end PPM 750. Now here me out on this I'm a newb so I might be totally wrong here, we all know that hygrozyme helps break up bad shit and turn it into food, along with helping nutrient uptake. Could it be that once I had added hygrozyme to
my soup I should of kept the PPM lower? Looking at the drain to waste chart from GH it showed a PPM of 500-700 for early stage, I was only off by 50 PPM I assume by just 50 PPM it shouldn't of burnt my plants or locked anything out. But who knows, what do you think about that theory?

Nute burn... looks like too much nitrogen although I might be wrong.

Wreched,
I noticed your post to SIP but thought I'd throw in a bit. Plant burns will occur based on total ppms (everything in the water) and not just the ppms of added nutrients. So your ppm that the plants sensed was 850...they don't know where the nute numbers come from. Does that help?
JD

johndee hit the nail on the head. Regardless your ppms are your ppms, the plant wont differentiate ppm from hard water and ur nutrients, its all part per million regardless. You have to look at it like this, even though it was only 50 ppm somewhere along the line there has to be the "straw that broke the camels back" and just so you know whenever dealing with coco always always feed feed feed micro's to your media. "mykos" may b in the coco, but it wont stick to the coco unless roots are there, so shit just gets washed the fuck out. Thats y i use mychorrizae with every or every other watering minimum. Youll see a big difference always feeding your plants mychorizzae. not at full strength, just half strength or 1/4 strength, unless its kushman veganic microbes, then there formulated to use with every watering. All others like great white and orca and shit will tell u only use it at certain times. And if your 100 percent organic then yea, but most people add shit along the way that will rip your microherd to shreds. this is why its so big to constantly feed your soil or coco or whatever with the beneficials, i even use them through flush. but i use bacterium not mychorizzae.

Looks like nute burn

indica4sativa said:

johndee hit the nail on the head. Regardless your ppms are your ppms, the plant wont differentiate ppm from hard water and ur nutrients, its all part per million regardless. You have to look at it like this, even though it was only 50 ppm somewhere along the line there has to be the "straw that broke the camels back" and just so you know whenever dealing with coco always always feed feed feed micro's to your media. "mykos" may b in the coco, but it wont stick to the coco unless roots are there, so shit just gets washed the fuck out. Thats y i use mychorrizae with every or every other watering minimum. Youll see a big difference always feeding your plants mychorizzae. not at full strength, just half strength or 1/4 strength, unless its kushman veganic microbes, then there formulated to use with every watering. All others like great white and orca and shit will tell u only use it at certain times. And if your 100 percent organic then yea, but most people add shit along the way that will rip your microherd to shreds. this is why its so big to constantly feed your soil or coco or whatever with the beneficials, i even use them through flush. but i use bacterium not mychorizzae.

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ahhh yes, 850 is 850 with nutes or not. Ok so you say add mychrizzae, but my coco is amended with mykos and azos from extreme gardening. You are saying I should always add that to my feeding? Or should i buy a seperate mychorrizae? I run purely synthetics. So before this all happened i was at 1.0 to 1.2 EC and i was doing GH 3part, bio roots, superthrive, and cal mag. After that regimen I upped the nutes to an EC of 1.7 and it had GH 3part, bio roots, superthrive, cal mag, hygrozyme, and liquid karma. I just looked at the plants i just see the lower fan leafs that took majority of the either burn or defficeny so i just left it. I water today but am just going to flush and then the next watering going to do 1/4 strength and go up from there, I take it my plants are not liking EC of 1.7 ill probablly take it down to EC of 1.2 or maybe just keep it at 1.0 through out its veg stage.

JohnDee said:

Wreched,
I noticed your post to SIP but thought I'd throw in a bit. Plant burns will occur based on total ppms (everything in the water) and not just the ppms of added nutrients. So your ppm that the plants sensed was 850...they don't know where the nute numbers come from. Does that help?
JD

Click to expand...

Now i understand haha, thanks JD

yea, its a marketing scheme to me, putting mychorrizae in coco. it needs roots to attach to, the coco doesnt give it anything to attach to. regardless if u do synthetic or organic, microbes microbes microbes. there the cycle of life. and if ur runnin synthetics then every time u feed u kill the microbes from last time. thats why, u make up whatever u make up for your feed then after you PH you water, you add your great white, or oregonism xl, or orca, or whatever mychorrizae bacterium product. i suggest OGTEA all the way of course lol. Some strains are finicky and dont like a lot of nutrients. sometimes less is more. u know? liuquid karma if used to much will fuck your shit up. i used to use it sparingly. but just flush with with hygrozyme... then u have to do the 1/4 strength and make sure u add the microbes. i suggest employing humic acid as well. u should get something that has kelp in it like nitrozyme. that has a bunch of amino acids and vitamins the plant needs besides vitamin b.

Thanks indica!!! So I flushed week and my run off was at .4 EC. About microbes, what is OG tea? Also in terms of humic acid isn't that what liquid karma is? What about the kelp part I have GH base and bio roots right now and really liking them, they have this nute called bio weed it has seaweed and not kelp hahah. Fr the ocean though, what would you suggest?

man i was high lol but yea thats what i meant, its the same thing im pretty sure lol but, use the bio weed. honestly, if they put out a line and it has everything like that, i would use it. just bc a product says it has " so and so " and "so and so" doesnt mean it has enough of it in the product to help you for what you need. OGTEA are the kyle kushman microbes. theres a mychorrizae product, a bacterium product and a dehydrated ccompost tea product that u dont need to aerate. You use at least one to 2 of the products EVERY watering. u get like 4 lbs of this shit for like 140 bucks instead of spending 40 bucks for 4 or 8 oz of great white. And the ogtea products are vegan. Pre_Calyx is my instagram and u can see my plants. I use OGTEA products for the last year. But anyways, if your rocking synthetics and u have cash, i can tell you a program to really get that would rock the fuck out of any strain u have. if not, and u can spend a little cash, i would seriously advise you on getting some other stuff. You should be using a method called "feed, feed, flush" which means.... monday you feed your GH nutrients.... wed or thurs you feed your GH nutrients then sat or sun you use nothing but water and hygrozyme(enzyme). This will break down any dead root matter and wash away any excess salts that would accumulate. but, your plants have to be healthy and its not something you can just do with a couple nutrients. you have to have your NPK, surfucants, humic/fulvic acids, amino acids, sugars, enzymes, silica, vitamins, microbes, everything a plant needs to THRIVE not survive, and you can push it to the limit. Learn about your essential elements and organic bio-stimulants. Remember since you use synthetics, you have to replicate every single step along the way that would other wise be taken care of by nature. this is why i do organics and use super coco / super soil. So, if you want to stick synthetic and have a few hundred bucks to spend, i cant direct u in the right way.. or if u only have a little bit of money i can help u piece together products to get u rockin n rollin, orr and this is what i would do, fuck synthetics.. get super coco from nonutrientsrequired.com u can check it out there and the email is [email protected] he is the ownder and willl most likely send you a free bag as long as you pay for the 20 dollar shipping. This is coming from a very knowledgable person bro... you only need water.. camg... and microbes and enzymes... if you look on rollitup he has his recipe on their and you can see how extensive it is. but i used to make my own soil, this dude coco is so amazing i dont make my own anymore. the only thing i add is insect frass and bokashi. Its freakin amazing. but that would free up all kinds of funds and its idiot proof lol. you only add water, camg, and microbes.. and watch it blow the fuck up. now me, i add microbes, camg, vitamin b, humic acid, sugars and enzymes. but thats because i build my shit to be above 25% resin profiles. most people dont need shit to be uber strong. So i would look into that bro.