nervous of electricity

nic11130 said:

alright lady, ill give it a try thank you!

Click to expand...

That 3 prong adapter will not magically give you a ground! There is no ground on a light socket so by using this its the same thing as using the 2 prong plug you already have!

Also, if you'd read this thread:

https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/607986-electric-questions-maybe-will-help.html

You need to have a dedicated circuit running the grow room...
You can do it...

LadyZandra said:

The source is his ceiling light fixture-- if it isn't grounded, then all his outlets are sub-par for code... no matter what he runs off it.

As for the light...
Why do you have to have a bulb there? Cant you run a cheap clamp-light and bulb from the drop-cord & power-brick?

Actually-- I'd say to get everything out of the attic, and have someone come and re-wire it from the box with a couple grounded wall outlets so it has it's own circuit breaker. There are handymen in the newspaper and on Angies list who do it cheap and are licenced- so any issues with it and it's on them.

Click to expand...

Geez, code only applies to new installations so if his house was built when grounded plugs werent needed then it would of passed at the time it was inspected.
He needs to verify if there is a ground wire there!
Didnt anybody read that im an electrician! Licensed too!

@sand my load is 2 fans, 2 4 foot florescent light fixtures /w 2 bulbs ech (those are the two tht need grounding), and 2 compact floescentfixtures. a total of six outlets needed. and @bottletoke cosmetics is not an issue, i just want it to work with out burning the place down. and yes, i suppose i could put a receptacle next to it.

joe macclennan said:

If you have any copper plumbing near you can ground to this.
Sounds like you have an accident waiting to happen. I would try and get a dedicated circuit there.

Click to expand...

No u cant! Water mains are pvc now so there is no continuous connection to ground.

nic11130 said:

@sand my load is 2 fans, 2 4 foot florescent light fixtures /w 2 bulbs ech (those are the two tht need grounding), and 2 compact floescentfixtures. a total of six outlets needed. and @bottletoke cosmetics is not an issue, i just want it to work with out burning the place down. and yes, i suppose i could put a receptacle next to it.

Click to expand...

If u have a ground wire there then do it. Itll be the safest thing to do.

bottletoke said:

If u have a ground wire there then do it. Itll be the safest thing to do.

Click to expand...

If there is one, im not to sure how to set it up, is there a guide you know of?

Telling someone with ZERO experience with electricity to go un-wire something and take a look is dangerous... he admits he doesn't know what to do... His best bet is to find someone who knows what they are doing to come help him or re-wire the room.

Giving bad advice is worse then getting somebody to do it themselves properly. Plus his grow is covert!

Nic go to home depot and tell the electrician what u want to do and hell give u all the material u need ($14) and hell show u how to do it. Its ez. Black wire to black wire. White to white. Bare wire to ground. Plus thrre are a ton of youtube videos.

But you didn't tell him to do that.. just to go take a look.. didn't see ya tell him to switch off the breaker etc..
so who's giving bad advice?
I just don't want the guy getting zapped or shorting out his shit.
Sorry if you felt I stepped on your dick by telling him to get it done correctly.
And since when is it illegal/suspicious to have an attic (or any other room) rewired? People do it ever day to get more useable space from their homes. I told him to EMPTY the room 1st... not to have someone re-wire a grow set-up.

lol wow! what i didnt mention was or is common sense in which every grower should have!
what you did mention is just wrong and is a big mistake that a lot of know it alls do and thats push bad info!
i'm not gonna tell him why its ok to call someone in to do the work but instead ill respect his wishes that he wants to keep it covert.
now stop fishing and trolling and try to be happy!

bottletoke said:

lol wow! what i didnt mention was or is common sense in which every grower should have!
what you did mention is just wrong and is a big mistake that a lot of know it alls do and thats push bad info!
i'm not gonna tell him why its ok to call someone in to do the work but instead ill respect his wishes that he wants to keep it covert.
now stop fishing and trolling and try to be happy!

Click to expand...

I feel as if the OP is young and living under someone else's roof, regardless anyone growing marijuana should at least have the intelligence to be able to do simple electric work. Do some google searches. I've learned a lot about electric work through google and various forums and youtube videos. I mean honestly - if you can find step by step guides on how to grow marijuana, or how to synthesize ecstasy on google, pretty sure you can find information on simple electrical work lol. Just don't hurt yourself OP.

Are the outlets at the lamp holder built into the base of the fixture, or a screw in adapter?

One way to check for imminent danger is to check the cords, adapters, and connection points for heat. Excessive heat is a telltale sign that you might be overworking the circuit.

If you can't change out to a 3 wire outlet for whatever reason, you can get a gfci protected power strip to add some safety to the grow. And actually, if you are using those lights or fans in a "wet location" you really should be using gfci's anyway...

Here is a good Q&A from mikeholt.com regarding the use of extension cords:

Q17. Is there a section in the code restricting the use of extension cords?

A17. No. The NEC is an installation standard, not a product standard. However, the use of listed extension cords should be in accordance with the listed instructions, but this is not a Code requirement. According to UL.com, extension cords are not intended to be used as a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure. So basically, an extension cord is only for temporary usage.

Click to expand...

Another one!

And where is the gfci going to magically get the ground from? It cant get a ground if one isnt there!!!! you can not short cut around this, if you could I'm sure a LICENSED ELECTRICIAN would know!

bottletoke said:

Another one!

And where is the gfci going to magically get the ground from? It cant get a ground if one isnt there!!!! you can not short cut around this, if you could I'm sure a LICENSED ELECTRICIAN would know!

Click to expand...

Another What?

I would expect a "LICENSED ELECTRICIAN" to know a GFCI receptacle does not need an equipment grounding conductor to function as designed. Have you ever even installed a gfci receptacle? What do you think all those "No Equipment Ground" stickers are for?

Replacing Receptacles to Meet the NEC


The NEC requires receptacles installed on 15 and 20 ampere branch circuits to be of the grounding-type and it requires the grounding contacts of those receptacles to be effectively grounded to the branch circuit equipment grounding conductor [210-7]. However, the Code allows the installation of any of the following installations when replacing a 2-wire nongrounding-type receptacle where no ground exists in the outlet box [210-7(d)(3)]


(a) Replace the 2-wire receptacle with another 2-wire receptacle.

(b) Replace the 2-wire receptacle with a GFCI-type receptacle and marked the receptacle with the words “No Equipment Ground.”

(c) Replace the 2-wire receptacle with a grounding-type receptacle where protected by a GFCI protection device (circuit breaker or receptacle). Since the grounding terminals for the receptacles are not grounded, the receptacles must be marked with the words “GFCI Protected” and “No Equipment Ground.”


A grounding-type receptacle that is GFCI protected without an equipment grounding conductor is a safer installation than a grounding-type receptacle with an equipment grounding conductor (if GFCI protection is not provided). This is because the GFCI protection device will clear a ground-fault when the fault-current is 5 milliamperes (+ or – 1 milliampere), which is less than the current level necessary to cause serious electric shock or electrocution, Figure 10/11.


A grounding-type receptacle without a ground is a safe installation as long as the GFCI protection circuitry within the device has not failed from shorts and voltage transients. To insure proper GFCI protection, test the GFCI monthly in accordance with the manufactures instructions and if the GFCI test does not operate properly, replace the GFCI protection device.


Author’s Comment: The equipment grounding conductor serves no purpose in the operation of a GFCI protection device, and therefore it has no effect on the function of the GFCI test-button.

Click to expand...

http://www.mikeholt.com/mojonewsarchive/All-HTML/HTML/GFCI-Receptacles-Without-Ground~19991230.php

"another what" u ask? another know it all!
i get sick and tired of helping people out by giving the right advice and then having to go against one or several know it alls because they insist their way is better then what a professional in the trade in question is suggesting. either they saw it on a jack of all trades tv show or heard it from a friend that appears to know what he's doing because his father was a millright.
the gfci is a great idea but it will not work unless the op wants to grow some hermies. a gfci will constantly trip when it operates fluorescent and hid ballasts along with motor loads. nuisance tripping is a huge problem with these loads because a gfci trips whens it senses a 5to6 ma difference in a fraction of a second between 2 conductors that are powering these loads in question because of the larger capacitance they have.
i do not work on super basic residential electrical systems for a living, i deal with complex electrical control and automation. along with my ticket i also have my electrical technologist deg and a couple of other tickets that are not related.. i know what i'm talking about, i'm not blowing this out of my ass. do a search on "gfci nuisance tripping ballast" and you'll fing something like this:

http://www.safeelectricity.info/index.php/information-center/library-of-articles/55-home-safety/317-ground-fault-circuit-interrupters-gfcis

What is nuisance tripping of a GFCI?
It takes only 5 mA (0.005 A) of current leakage from the hot wire to the ground to cause a GFCI to trip. A small amount of leakage current may be difficult to avoid in some normal circuits. Hand-held power tools do not cause a tripping problem if the tool is maintained in good condition. Some stationary motors, such as a bathroom vent fan or fluorescent lighting fixtures, may produce enough leakage to cause nuisance tripping. Another problem may be a long circuit with many splices. If possible, keep GFCI circuits less than 100 feet long. To avoid nuisance tripping, a GFCI should not supply:

• Circuits longer than 100 feet
• Fluorescent or other types of electric-discharge lighting fixtures
• Permanently installed electric motors

Installing a GFCI to prevent electrical shock from electrical equipment seems like a good idea, but nuisance tripping may become a serious problem. The installer must carefully consider the effects of loss of power to a circuit before installing GFCI protection, such as circuits with refrigerators, freezers, garage door openers, etc. The most effective shock prevention system for electrical equipment and circuits is a good equipment grounding conductor run with the circuit wires and connected to all metal equipment.

to the op, i wont be coming back to this thread. i dont want you to think that someone posting an alternate idea is better or will work because i'm not responding but its because i dont have time for this, if you have a question just pm me.
you can do it the right way or you can do it the other way, the choice is yours.

last time i help anybody on this site.

unreal.

bottletoke said:

"another what" u ask? another know it all!
i get sick and tired of helping people out by giving the right advice and then having to go against one or several know it alls because they insist their way is better then what a professional in the trade in question is suggesting.
........

to the op, i wont be coming back to this thread. i dont want you to think that someone posting an alternate idea is better or will work because i'm not responding but its because i dont have time for this, if you have a question just pm me.
you can do it the right way or you can do it the other way, the choice is yours.

last time i help anybody on this site.

unreal.

Click to expand...

If you want to have a discussion on the pro's and con's of gfci, then great! It's good info to share with fellow growers. I too have posted my concerns regarding nuisance tripping in "The Most Dangerous Grow Room Component" thread. But it all boils down to, life-safety overrides convenience. I'm not completely clear on what the OP is actually "nervous" about, but if the concern is his own safety, and his grow area meets the definition of "Wet Location" as defined by the NEC then his best solution in my opinion is gfci.

And it is funny as hell that you came back to call me a "know it all" a second time even after you got totally SCHOOLED on gfci not needing an equipment grounding conductor. Anyone can be mistaken on a subject, And that is why YOU shouldn't lambast someone complete with multiple exclamation points!!!! Because you may end up with your foot in your mouth...

know-it-all

[noh-it-awl]
noun 1. a person who acts as though he or she knows everything and who dismisses the opinions, comments, or suggestions of others.

Click to expand...

http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/know-it-all

I am only seeing one contributor in this thread that meets the definition of "know-it-all"!!!! LOL

nic11130 said:

Hi! I have recently set up my grow room but i am very nervous about the way i have the electricity set up. I have everything hooked up to a six three prong power brick. Only two out of the six appliances use grounding. The power brick is attached to a extension cord that runs about fifty feet to the entrance of my attic. From there it attaches to a light bulb outlet(you know the light fixtures with the two extra two prong outlets attached). Since its a 2 prong outlet, i had to tear off the grounding from the extension cord. I haven't had any issues with it on. I've tested it for hours on end with no issues but i am still very nervous. Keep in mind this is covert. Any ideas? I need help!

Click to expand...

If you are using HID lighting the power bar and extension cord should be heavy duty. Run a 12-14 gauge wire for that 50 foot run, perferably right to a outlet not a power bar.

Grounding electrical product is a safety thing, for example...if you have a short the ground allows an exit and safely dissapates the energy, without it the energy will be transfered to any metal object like your hood or ballast, so if you touch anything metal in the shorted system you will shock yourself and depending whats on that breaker it could be a real good snap!

The only fire issue I see is the power bar and the cord.

Hope this helps.

Westside how did Bottletoke get schooled? His post was based on what install method is proper for what the original poster requires and not what he could get away with. He is absolutely right by the way, sure a gfi or gfci can be used but it would be more impractical then adding a ground because reliability is a key in what the original poster is wanting.
So what is it you do for a living that makes your input more valuable then a "Licensed Electrician"? I'm also a Electrical Tech with a Electrician's License, nothing fancy but I work with GFCI's all day long(high voltage) in the design stages and I value someones opinion like a licensed trades persons because they see first hand on a daily level what works and what doesn't. On paper certain things seem to be better or more efficient then any original idea(like yours) but in real life they just dont work in certain situations(like his). I dont work as an Electrician and I probably never will but the license was something that I could get based on my background so why not.

Mr.Bottletoke, bravo for helping out.

Ok, the white wire or the common is bonded to the green wire or the ground inside the breaker box. The wide side of the pluggin' is common and the not so wide side is hot or black. I assume your light is 120vdc. The white wire goes to the wide slot and is connected to the threaded part of the light socket. because a three pronged plug has the same size bars you can compare it to a grounded receptacle to find which side is common etc.