NEED!!! YOUR GROWROOMS Air Flow Specs for my FAQ!!!

-=4:20=-Guy

Well-Known Member
K so this seems to be a very frequently asked question that has many variables making it hard to give any single answer.

How often should air be exchanged, and what size fans should I use?

This is my solution

I would like to give some real numbers but seeing as I cant exactly set up all of the possible options available Ill need some feedback. If you would like to help please copy this list and post your answers.

What to list
1, Hood Type, = Open / Closed
2, Light Wattage (total), =
3, A/C, = yes / no
4, Exhaust Fan 1 CFM, =
5, Exhaust Fan 1 mode, = Constant / Timed / Heat
6, Exhaust Fan 2 CFM, =
7, Exhaust Fan 2 mode, = Constant / Timed / Heat
8, Exhaust Filter (if yes give flow resistance rating or a short description), = no / flow resistance
9, Area size 1, =
10, Area Size 2, =
11, Co2, = yes / no
12, ADD YOUR OWN, = YOUR ANSWER

So load it up guys and gals, some good feedback should make this flow chart very useful.
 

nickibus

Active Member
Good post, im subscribed. I dont have my room set up otherwise Id share. But was thinking you should add a spot for size of grow room...
 

-=4:20=-Guy

Well-Known Member
Bump.

Come on guys lets get some specs

Here's mine:
1, Hood Type, = Closed
2, Light Wattage (total), = 1350
3, A/C, = yes
4, Exhaust Fan 1 CFM, = 150
5, Exhaust Fan 1 mode, = Constant
6, Exhaust Fan 2 CFM, = 400
7, Exhaust Fan 2 mode, = Heat
8, Exhaust Filter (if yes give flow resistance rating or a short description), = yes home-made cuts about 200 CFM
9, Area size 1, = 224 cubic ft or 4x8x7
10, Area Size 2, =
11, Co2, = no
12, ADD YOUR OWN, = YOUR ANSWER
 

Phinxter

Well-Known Member
1, Hood Type, = Closed // cool tube
2, Light Wattage (total), = 1000
3, A/C, = no
4, Exhaust Fan 1 CFM, = 250 for cool tube
5, Exhaust Fan 1 mode, = timed
6, Exhaust Fan 2 CFM, = 424 exhaust thru carbon filter
7, Exhaust Fan 2 mode, = Constant
8, Exhaust Filter (if yes give flow resistance rating or a short description), = 9.5" X 18" with 6 inch duct / carbon filter
9, Area size 1, = 39" X 39" X 72" grow tent
10, Area Size 2, =
11, Co2, = no
 

-=4:20=-Guy

Well-Known Member
ill post mine soon. im redesigning this week. good idea though.
Sweet.

Ya they are always under redesgine LOL.

Just added a 1000Watter to my flower side. Gonna be building again to put my 3'x4' tray in, and be all hydro, when the girls that are in soil right now come off that is.
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
I'm in flux myself. Working on the next room.

But can I add/tweak the AC part?

The AC might do better if specified as special unit for room vs central AC.

Also length of ducting and number of bends effect CFM ratings of fan.

But GREAT thread. Hope many post.
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
So, with a closed, non A/C hood like this one: http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-44371338330177_2015_10516039 I can't run Co2 injection?
You can use CO2 injection with any system.

Now, if you are sucking out the CO2 along with the air, that can be a waste.

Co2 works better with higher, but not too high temps. The higher temps help open up the stomtas (like our skin pores) to help the CO2 to O2 conversion (which equals plant food)

But if the temps get too high, then you start to degrade the THC.

Now if your light hood has a fan, yet dumps the hot air into the grow room instead of moving cool air out (isolated from grow room) then the light cooling is near pointless from the plants point of view and CO2 is FAR from your prob

(CO2 is the *last* thing to add to a system. Indoor CO2 levels are near double the outside levels, so you are fine there with good ventilation. Concentrate on the basics, light, water, nutes, and most importantly learning your strain what it likes and wants and doesn't like and doesn't want. Once your plants repeat on their growth and production then think about CO2)

A real CO2 system is knocking on $1000 USD. A CO2 system with no measuring/monitoring is POINTLESS. Unless you know the before ppm and after ppm and how much ppm your plants use *over the course* as they get bigger and need more, you are just using Co2 for braggin rights.



Now that said, using the yeast or vinegar method makes most sense to me (for refusing to do it correctly). Its cheap, unreliable, unpredictable, uncontrollable, but next to nothing ventured. And won't overdose the plants *ever*. (granted they probably won't notice it either)
 

-=4:20=-Guy

Well-Known Member
So, with a closed, non A/C hood like this one: http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-44371338330177_2015_10516039 I can't run Co2 injection?
That's what this help request is all about there are just so many options I couldn't possibly think of everything all myself. However I am willing to put it all together in a flowchart similar to the one that I started this thread with.

For that situation your intake temp and type of light would come into play.

So to the chart will be added branches for:

Low / High intake air
Type of lamp HID, CFL, Tubes, NOT LEDS
 

-=4:20=-Guy

Well-Known Member
The AC might do better if specified as special unit for room vs central AC.

Also length of ducting and number of bends effect CFM ratings of fan.

But GREAT thread. Hope many post.
First off thanks for the input

I would be more than happy to put together any good tested specs for many of the minor parts of all of these major systems that make up the miscellaneous configurations so lets see the specs.

I honestly couldn't tell you my TRUE CFMs so if anyone has any tested cfm loss for footage of duct pony up and help the masses =)
 

-=4:20=-Guy

Well-Known Member
A real CO2 system is knocking on $1000 USD.
DIY for about $600.

But the other factors kill. Ive had my grow box "BUILT" (lol like thats ever done) for over 2 years and its just now getting to the point of thinking about getting a C02 system. Keep in mind budget is a time limiting factor, if you got $10,000 and a 8'x8' room then go balls to the wall. Otherwise there are alot better and needed things, like good PPM & PH meter to many people dont have those.
 

Billj500

New Member
You can use CO2 injection with any system.

Now, if you are sucking out the CO2 along with the air, that can be a waste.

Co2 works better with higher, but not too high temps. The higher temps help open up the stomtas (like our skin pores) to help the CO2 to O2 conversion (which equals plant food)

But if the temps get too high, then you start to degrade the THC.

Now if your light hood has a fan, yet dumps the hot air into the grow room instead of moving cool air out (isolated from grow room) then the light cooling is near pointless from the plants point of view and CO2 is FAR from your prob

(CO2 is the *last* thing to add to a system. Indoor CO2 levels are near double the outside levels, so you are fine there with good ventilation. Concentrate on the basics, light, water, nutes, and most importantly learning your strain what it likes and wants and doesn't like and doesn't want. Once your plants repeat on their growth and production then think about CO2)

A real CO2 system is knocking on $1000 USD. A CO2 system with no measuring/monitoring is POINTLESS. Unless you know the before ppm and after ppm and how much ppm your plants use *over the course* as they get bigger and need more, you are just using Co2 for braggin rights.



Now that said, using the yeast or vinegar method makes most sense to me (for refusing to do it correctly). Its cheap, unreliable, unpredictable, uncontrollable, but next to nothing ventured. And won't overdose the plants *ever*. (granted they probably won't notice it either)
This is really great info. I'm gearing up for my first grow in the next few weeks and don't know anything. But I do have a friend that has grown a couple times (so he claims) who suggested all I needed for co2 injection was a tank, regulator and some rubber tubing. I guess After attaching the rubber tubing to the regulator and poking small sprinkler holes in the tubing, you route tubing on the ceiling above the tables and just let the co2 fall down on the plants. He says I don't need a controller or generator unless I want to get fancy. So, this is misinformation?

Also, I have another question not related to Co2 but just basic ventilation/heat/lights. I will be growing from Oct-Dec. Since I live in the mountains where the winter temps stay pretty cool, especially at night, will I even need A/C for my hoods in a modestly insulated garage? I was thinking no which is why i was looking at the hydrofarm daystar NON a/c. What do you guys think?
 

Billj500

New Member
DIY for about $600.

But the other factors kill. Ive had my grow box "BUILT" (lol like thats ever done) for over 2 years and its just now getting to the point of thinking about getting a C02 system. Keep in mind budget is a time limiting factor, if you got $10,000 and a 8'x8' room then go balls to the wall. Otherwise there are alot better and needed things, like good PPM & PH meter to many people dont have those.
Even $600 is way more than I would want to spend on co2 for a first grow. I have an 18Lx10Wx8H garage and a fat credit card lol. I was actually very close to buying a 240 site roto grow the other day for $3500. But I decided that would be getting in way over my head and I should keep it simple until I learn how to grow.

Now I'm going to the opposite extreme of the spectrum with a 32 plant hempy bucket system! About as simple as it gets, hopefully. I can't believe what a great resource this site is!
 

ganjagoddess

Well-Known Member
1, Hood Type, = CLOSED
2, Light Wattage (total), = 4000
3, A/C, = no
4, Exhaust Fan 1 CFM, = 900
5, Exhaust Fan 1 mode, = Constant
6, Exhaust Fan 2 CFM, = none
7, Exhaust Fan 2 mode, = Constant / Timed / Heat
8, Exhaust Filter (if yes give flow resistance rating or a short description), = flow is 560cfm, its suction is spilt via a y to pull air through the carbon filter as well as the lights
9, Area size 1, = 10x20 feet 200sqft
10, Area Size 2, =
11, Co2, = nope, soon
12, ADD YOUR OWN, = YOUR ANSWER
 
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