Had a friend come over who knows his stuff and diagnose my plant. It's about 1.5-2 ft. tall from the top of the 12" pot, which it was transplanted into about a week and a half ago (Scott's soil). I haven't fed it any nutes to this point except some of these Jobe's Fertilizer Spikes, but they obviously aren't doing shit. The leaves are droopy and curled over, and some of the bottom ones are developing brown spots. Aside from overwatering, which I already realize I've done and have/will take steps to alleviate, what ails my plant and what nutes do I need to get this baby going good again? If I cannot afford $150 worth of Fox Farm stuff off the internet (though that may still be an option), what can I get by with to just at least grow a healthy plant that I could possibly grab at Wal-Mart or Rural King? I was told possibly MG Moisture Control? I just moved into college, so budget is of concern...
Need Nute Advice
- Thread starter RedGoblin
- Start date
babygro
Well-Known Member
Shame he didn't advise you on what nutrients to get eh?
Take the fertiliser spikes out and throw them away.
This could be anything at all, without a picture it's impossible to say, may be connected to incorrect watering, over-watering, under-watering or the fertiliser sticks.
See what I mean now about the need to understand how to water your plant correctly?
Forget MG Moisture control - learn how to water your plants correctly.
Regarding nutrients, you don't need $150 worth from a specialist hydro store to grow what is in essence nothing more than a 'weed', contrary to what anyone will tell you on here - you don't need them. All these 'supposed' specialist nutrients being sold by the Hydro stores are nothing more than marketing by greedy companies wanting to cash in on the 'underground' Canna growing community.
You don't see common vegetable gardeners or housewives tending house plants using them, so why should we need them? It's fair to say Canna is a high light plant with slightly different nutrient requirements than your common houseplant, but even still, it doesn't need all these expensive nutrients these companies try to sell us to get a respectable product.
You need nothing more than a good quality Tomato feed towards the end of vegetative growth and the start and continuation of flowering, as long as you've followed a sensible potting up procedure. Try and get the best quality one you can and Organic if at all possible - they do do organic tomato feeds. Added to that, some organic Seaweed Extract for stress relief and addition of micro nutrients and trace elements and also perhaps some Molasses but that's not essential if you're using Seaweed Extract. Also some Epsom Salts if you live in a hard water area.
Both the Tomato feed and Seaweed Extract shouldn't run you much more than 10 or 15 bucks.
Where can I get the products you're talking about if there isn't a gardening center around here? I just moved to a new town and am quite unfamiliar with the businesses available to me. Pretty sure the spikes have already absorbed into the soil. The Moisture Control thing was a suggestion I received from someone on here who knew nothing of the watering issues we discussed previously, so I wasn't going to use that as an attempt to cover up for incorrect watering. The friend who came over was the one who recommended the pricier nutes, so that's why I'm asking for a second opinion. As far as the watering thing goes, in general, I plan to buy a moisture meter tomorrow, so I'd kind of like to get away from the topic of hydration, for the moment at least. A sidenote, though the problem's obviously not cleared up, I was gone for a day and when I returned, some of the leaves seem to be showing signs of improvement; the leaves are more firm and not drooping, and the plant has just grown overall. Sorry about pic quality, camera phone is all I have available to me right now.
flush flush flush flush then peeeeeeee on her 
. Actually I mean pee in her water.. about a quarter to a half ounce of urine to 8 oz of water. And before anyone nay says i peed in my last crop and it went fine. Just make sure to balance your ph if you dont have a good water source. (ironically my tap is almost perfect ph teehee)
. Actually I mean pee in her water.. about a quarter to a half ounce of urine to 8 oz of water. And before anyone nay says i peed in my last crop and it went fine. Just make sure to balance your ph if you dont have a good water source. (ironically my tap is almost perfect ph teehee)
Wavels
Well-Known Member
Outstanding advice baby!
Very well said!!!!
Godkas is spot on-------The pee idea is an excellent way to provide N quite cheaply
LURP
Well-Known Member
Key on Nutrient Disorders
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.
1) a) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2.
b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) a) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #3.
3) a) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #4.
4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.
b) If not, keep reading?
5) a) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorous (P) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #6.
6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.
b) If not, go to #7.
7) a) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N).
b) If not, go to #8?
a) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >>Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely).
b) If not, go to #9.
9) a) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning.
b) If not, go to #10...
10) a) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency.
b) If not, #11.
11) a) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency.
b) If not, #12.
12) a) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency.
b) If not, #13. 13) a) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency.
b) If not? You may just have a weak plant.
GanjaPedia - Marijuana Growing Guides...Marijuana Nutrient Disorders
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.
1) a) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2.
b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) a) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #3.
3) a) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #4.
4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.
b) If not, keep reading?
5) a) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorous (P) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #6.
6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.
b) If not, go to #7.
7) a) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N).
b) If not, go to #8?
a) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >>Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.
9) a) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning.
b) If not, go to #10...
10) a) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency.
b) If not, #11.
11) a) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency.
b) If not, #12.
12) a) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency.
b) If not, #13. 13) a) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency.
b) If not? You may just have a weak plant.
GanjaPedia - Marijuana Growing Guides...Marijuana Nutrient Disorders
Have you done your runoff ph test?
After you do that you should make your water acidic or alkaline based on the reading you get. if your runoff is high you'll have to lower it with a ph down.
The idea is to regulate your ph first while flushing and then change ferts to make the transition easier on the plant.
After you do that you should make your water acidic or alkaline based on the reading you get. if your runoff is high you'll have to lower it with a ph down.
The idea is to regulate your ph first while flushing and then change ferts to make the transition easier on the plant.