Need help to find out if is root rot

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
Drop the organics. Liquid Karma is maybe good for running DTW tables but I see little reason for using Liquid Karma in recirculating Hydroponics.

I get better results with foliar feed and I don't really want to destroy what's good about Hydroponics. What you do is removing as many variables as possible to get rock stable PH. Keep the rez and rootzone clean and focus on surface tension. Biofilm should not exist in a Hydroponic system. When you have got a basic understanding of how Hydroponics work you should see no reason to use Organics. It will only give you more cleaning work, pH fluctuations and bad bacteria cultures.

I use bleach (3% Sodium hypochlorite) to run 0,5ppm residual. Why everybody insist on running enzymes and other additives growing Cannabis in Hydroponics I think is just a result of marketing. Sterility and a Complete plant food is all that is needed.

24/7 spray/pump time is ok for LPA. I don't think there's anything wrong there. I would run it with tighter intervals than you currently do.
This 100%^
Been running sterile for yrs and have encountered a lot of things in hydroponics...but root rot hasnt ever been one of em.
To the OP, has your pH been fluctuating heavily/uncontrollably? Aside from the looks of the roots (which can often be hard to distinguish with the staining from bennies), there are other tell tales of root rot -quick and drastic pH fluctuations are usually one of em.


Could I clean the roots with anything then restart my rez with freshwater and nuets after cleaning?
You can sanitize your system (totes, lines/pumps/etc) with 1 part bleach for every 10 parts of water. Then use 3% store bought H2O2 and run that at about 15ml per gallon of water when you refill your res. Let that run for 24 hrs, change out the res again for fresh water and a fresh dose of H2O2 added to the res every 3 days or so since the effectiveness of the Hydrogen Peroxide will fade. Best of luck!
 
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trooper55

Well-Known Member
This 100%^
Been running sterile for yrs and have encountered a lot of things in hydroponics...but root rot hasnt ever been one of em.
To the OP, has your pH been fluctuating heavily/uncontrollably? Aside from the looks of the roots (which can often be hard to distinguish with the staining from bennies), there are other tell tales of root rot -quick and drastic pH fluctuations are usually one of em.



You can sanitize your system (totes, lines/pumps/etc) with 1 part bleach for every 10 parts of water. Then use 3% store bought H2O2 and run that at about 15ml per gallon of water when you refill your res. Let that run for 24 hrs, change out the res again for fresh water and a fresh dose of H2O2 added to the res every 3 days or so since the effectiveness of the Hydrogen Peroxide will fade. Best of luck!
no the ph maybe drops .1 to .05 a day or unless I add nuets. just took some photos again of the plants and man one of them is getting hit hard I would like to try and save them I will go for sterile from now on. last question are these plants saveable? and can i still use the nuets i have minus the hydro garud or do i need a whole new line up for them.20191014_140132.jpg20191014_140136.jpg20191014_140140.jpg20191014_140145.jpg20191014_140150.jpg20191014_140155.jpg20191014_140200.jpg
 

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HydroRed

Well-Known Member
no the ph maybe drops .1 to .05 a day or unless I add nuets. just took some photos again of the plants and man one of them is getting hit hard I would like to try and save them I will go for sterile from now on. last question are these plants saveable? and can i still use the nuets i have minus the hydro garud or do i need a whole new line up for them.View attachment 4408013View attachment 4408015View attachment 4408017View attachment 4408018View attachment 4408019View attachment 4408020View attachment 4408021
if you are still using Botanicare macro/micro, those are synthetics and will work in a sterile res. They also base their ppm on the 0.7 scale. As you mentioned, drop the hydroguard and run the res like I had suggested with the H2O2 after cleaning stuff up. Another thing I'd like to ask is what are your tent temps at? Just a hunch but it seems they may be a bit on the cooler side?
 

trooper55

Well-Known Member
yes the botanicare is what I have right now cal-mag, sweet, and pro blend. I also have 3 fox farms as well from my last grow. if it is better to switch I'm cool with that. and the tent has been around 75 to 80 then the off-time it drops to 65 now the last two days with the bigger light it's been 80-84 tell the light goes off than 65. humidity is at 33-38%
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
well turns out i had poor sensor placement so my tent temps have been 70s when lights on
I had a feeling. Glad to hear you caught it! I'll bet an increase in temps will help your plants to "liven up" and help with growth and transpiration/uptake. You'll probably see some pretty significant growth as soon as you bring those temps up around the 78-82* mark.
 

trooper55

Well-Known Member
Well...
Had ti have been root rot. Built a new rez and cleaned it filled it prepped it than went to move the cold looking pland and it snapped at the collar with no effort. Other one moved fine. I tried to cut and make clones but not sure if any will make it. Ph is at 5.9 rez temp 64 and climing. Amb 74.57 with a fan moving air around. Ec 720 ppm 421 put some clonex in due to cutting to try and save the one. Also added dase nuets and h2o2 will change in 24hr again.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Sorry to hear of the broken plant.

Have you considered pool shock? It's the cheapest and most effective way to run sterile.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
Man this is the biggest headache i have had doing this style of areo last time it worked like gangbusters like crazy. These were this morning. Ph 6.1, ec 912, ppm 412. Temp has been 78is. I think this is not going so well ofta. Also tha k you for all the help!
They look like they could use some bleach treatment. Here's a dilution calculator http://www.foodsafe.ca/dilution-calculator.html

Aim for 5ppm initially and then run 1ppm for the rest of the cycle. Get simple chlorine strips for pools etc. They're really cheap and easy to use. You can also get a Chlorine meter. Add eod or e3d. It will differ from system to system and amount of aeration and plants treated. Evaporation rate of Chlorine is about 3,5 days in still water. With good aeration, plants and moving water it will drop drastically.
 
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