Need help identifying issue with my plants

DanKiller

Well-Known Member
Start with raising your heat to 28-29c at least, RH is good.
After that make sure you feed every watering, if you already do it, raise the ec more but slowly.
They look like they have def, purple stems are the first indicator (stems, not leaf stems)
Also your tips looks green and good so you can push them a lil more.
Make sure your root zone is not under 20c.
Good luck !
 
What's your feeding schedule?
I use a digital scale to weigh the plant right after watering it. Say it weighs 1500 grams right after watering, when it looses 40% of that wet weight I water it. On the Canna website it says to water after the coco looses 50% of wet weight but i've found for a more developed plant that it's a little too dry. My run off is always within 80 ppm of what I'm feeding when watering when the plant looses 40% of wet weight.
 
Start with raising your heat to 28-29c at least, RH is good.
After that make sure you feed every watering, if you already do it, raise the ec more but slowly.
They look like they have def, purple stems are the first indicator (stems, not leaf stems)
Also your tips looks green and good so you can push them a lil more.
Make sure your root zone is not under 20c.
Good luck !
Really appreciate the advice. Just raised my temps to 82. Will be posting updates to my Grow Journal. Thanks dude!!
 

DanKiller

Well-Known Member
Don't forget to ph to 6.1-6.4
If your adjustments are good you should see the purple in the stems fade to nice light green.
 

Kola_Kreator

Well-Known Member
I use a digital scale to weigh the plant right after watering it. Say it weighs 1500 grams right after watering, when it looses 40% of that wet weight I water it. On the Canna website it says to water after the coco looses 50% of wet weight but i've found for a more developed plant that it's a little too dry. My run off is always within 80 ppm of what I'm feeding when watering when the plant looses 40% of wet weight.
Your growing in a hydro medium brother. Treat it like hydro and the problems will disappear. Water 10+ times a day with an auto watering setup and you'll see a huge difference in plant health and growth rates.
 

amneziaHaze

Well-Known Member
classic magnesium

also why should you have such a massive temperature?
and if its coco/hydro why do you ph it above 6?

your temp/humidity combo is almost perfect vpd 14C is the minimum temp that will stop your growth but 20+ is ideal
 
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DanKiller

Well-Known Member
classic magnesium

also why should you have such a massive temperature?
and if its coco/hydro why do you ph it above 6?

your temp/humidity combo is almost perfect vpd 14C is the minimum temp that will stop your growth but 20+ is ideal
Ideal temps are 25-30 at canopy, don't forget anything under the canopy is always lower, so you want a good base temp on top to compliment the lower section as much as possible, if you reach for 24-25 on top what does that mean for your lowers and rootzone ? Probably not optimal or even good temps.

The reason to ph above 6 is you see more absorption in that range, again, not well above 6 but 6.1-6.4 is ideal even in coco.

VPD is not perfect again, it's just a reference, you have conditions which make growth optimal, find these conditions, make sure you are in range first. if best temps are 28-30c, make sure you hit that and make necessary adjustments to rh in order to be on the sweet spot.

Anything under 25c (canopy) is pretty much stagnant grow that will lead to problems in nutrients uptake.
 

amneziaHaze

Well-Known Member
unless you use LED then its 2C difference in tops and whole room.
i would say 20-25 is ideal 30 is starting to feel bad but works...

as long as the stomata can open with no stress vpd is good.now if you raise the temps she will drink faster but that will just mean you need to use weaker nutrients from all the transpiration she will do.
 

pegboy

Well-Known Member
unless you use LED then its 2C difference in tops and whole room.
i would say 20-25 is ideal 30 is starting to feel bad but works...

as long as the stomata can open with no stress vpd is good.now if you raise the temps she will drink faster but that will just mean you need to use weaker nutrients from all the transpiration she will do.
Agreed. While 30c might be good for optimal growth its also optimal conditions for some bad things. I don't like riding that close to possible trouble. I always error to the dryer side. I try to be 23 to 25ish. Thats just me though.
 

DanKiller

Well-Known Member
unless you use LED then its 2C difference in tops and whole room.
i would say 20-25 is ideal 30 is starting to feel bad but works...

as long as the stomata can open with no stress vpd is good.now if you raise the temps she will drink faster but that will just mean you need to use weaker nutrients from all the transpiration she will do.
Feel bad ? The issue is not about feelings here haha it's about science, exp and what's best, if you already decided to dedicate the time money and effort to growing, make the best outta it.
Best conditions for both veg and flower are 30-32c and 75-85rh accordingly.

Drink faster = grow faster, plants grow with water, not nutes, the more water/air cycles you can introduce the more growth you will have.

Agreed. While 30c might be good for optimal growth its also optimal conditions for some bad things. I don't like riding that close to possible trouble. I always error to the dryer side. I try to be 23 to 25ish. Thats just me though.
You are stagnant at that temp, you can achieve roughly x2 yeild and growth by adjusting to 29-30c and 70-80 RH, that's just me though, I don't have time for sluggish grows.

If your looking for strict quality, the formula is
Veg - 29-31c, RH 80
1/2 Flower - 29-31c, RH 80
2/2 Flower - 24-26c, RH 30
This way you allow the plant to bulk up as much as possible, then in the late stages (2nd half of flower) and after the trichomes had some time to establish, you lower the settings to max them out as they do love cold and dry space.
You sacrifice yeild and maybe density, but quality should be very high.
 

MickFoster

Well-Known Member
I use a digital scale to weigh the plant right after watering it. Say it weighs 1500 grams right after watering, when it looses 40% of that wet weight I water it. On the Canna website it says to water after the coco looses 50% of wet weight but i've found for a more developed plant that it's a little too dry. My run off is always within 80 ppm of what I'm feeding when watering when the plant looses 40% of wet weight.
Feed at least once per day to substantial run off.........no need to weigh the pot.........that's soil stuff.
Never let the coco dry and never use plain water.
I would flush your coco with a mild nute solution, then start feeding daily to run off.
 

amneziaHaze

Well-Known Member
i will have to look in to that.all my life never have a seen somebody do it that way.especially that 30rh sounds super wrong, is this all just your experience or is it backed up with some research?
i know in hydro just because its hotter her ppm doesnt drop to show she is starting to eat it goes up saying its just water evaporating.
 

Kola_Kreator

Well-Known Member
Feel bad ? The issue is not about feelings here haha it's about science, exp and what's best, if you already decided to dedicate the time money and effort to growing, make the best outta it.
Best conditions for both veg and flower are 30-32c and 75-85rh accordingly.

Drink faster = grow faster, plants grow with water, not nutes, the more water/air cycles you can introduce the more growth you will have.



You are stagnant at that temp, you can achieve roughly x2 yeild and growth by adjusting to 29-30c and 70-80 RH, that's just me though, I don't have time for sluggish grows.

If your looking for strict quality, the formula is
Veg - 29-31c, RH 80
1/2 Flower - 29-31c, RH 80
2/2 Flower - 24-26c, RH 30
This way you allow the plant to bulk up as much as possible, then in the late stages (2nd half of flower) and after the trichomes had some time to establish, you lower the settings to max them out as they do love cold and dry space.
You sacrifice yeild and maybe density, but quality should be very high.
30 degrees with 75 or 80 RH would give you a vpd of 0.4 - 0.21. This is definitely not what you want in flower. Optimal VPD for early flower is 1.1 and 1.4 for late flower. You are giving extremely bad advice by telling people to run 80 RH. This would be ok for clone/seedlings but definitely not for flower.

I'm not sure what you consider to be a successful grow but in hydro with optimal VPD and good nutrition you can grow a 2 pound+ plant under a 600 watt led.
 

DanKiller

Well-Known Member
i will have to look in to that.all my life never have a seen somebody do it that way.especially that 30rh sounds super wrong, is this all just your experience or is it backed up with some research?
i know in hydro just because its hotter her ppm doesnt drop to show she is starting to eat it goes up saying its just water evaporating.
RH and Temp must be intertwined, if you set your RH to 30 you need to set the temp to 22-24c in order to keep transpiration rate optimum for that setting.
This is experience and nature, the best weed in the world is in places that has these climates.
The cold dry days and night in late flower in the Indian mountains for instance.
The 22-25c temp and 30RH will give you best quality if applied at the right time.
Not talking about yield or density.

30 degrees with 75 or 80 RH would give you a vpd of 0.4 - 0.21. This is definitely not what you want in flower. Optimal VPD for early flower is 1.1 and 1.4 for late flower. You are giving extremely bad advice by telling people to run 80 RH. This would be ok for clone/seedlings but definitely not for flower.

I'm not sure what you consider to be a successful grow but in hydro with optimal VPD and good nutrition you can grow a 2 pound+ plant under a 600 watt led.
Again my friend, get out of the charts and start looking what is best in the real world, each temp has the best rh setting for it but no one is saying in which to grow what, it's only references.
So, if you know anything, you know that optimum conditions are 30-32c with rh of 80 at least.
This is backed by science, not advice, look it up.
This is mainly for flower yes !
Where on earth you see people flower outdoor in 20c ?? Is flower started to happen on winter or something ?
Flowering is a spring/summer event, and as such it goes with heat and humidity yes to your surprise...
So again, if you can maintain a 30c with 70-80rh your golden for a massive yield, growth, etc.
 

pegboy

Well-Known Member
Any pics of your entire grow?

And if you don't mind pointing me in the direction of this information that is saying that that is the optimum temperature and humidity.

Edit. And I still maintain that growing with that heat and that humidity is way too risky for powdery mildew and possible bud rot.
 
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