Mycorrhiza fugi

Green Please

Active Member
Thanks but i wanted to know of a first hand account and if anyone knows what specific
Mycorrhiza lives in symbiosis with Marijuana plant roots. ANY HORTICULTURALISTS out
there that know about this?!
 

snew

Well-Known Member
Thanks but i wanted to know of a first hand account and if anyone knows what specific
Mycorrhiza lives in symbiosis with Marijuana plant roots. ANY HORTICULTURALISTS out
there that know about this?!
And you have reason to believe that there is a specific Mycorrhizna that lives in symbiosis with marijuana?
 

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
ALL mycorrhizae lives in and around the host plants roots. "endo" myco lives inside the cells of the roots and "ecto" myco lives on the outside of the roots.
No myco can live and grow without a host plant to feed from. The spores will stay dormant or die without a host plant.

Myco will form a relationship with 95% of all plants, although we still have a LOT of studying to do.

yes i have seen the affects of myco and its beautiful.



soil :blsmoke:
 

Green Please

Active Member
Oh see i didn't know about the 95% of plants will. My Plant science teacher made it sound so much worse than it really is.
 

Prefontaine

Well-Known Member
Thanks but i wanted to know of a first hand account and if anyone knows what specific
Mycorrhiza lives in symbiosis with Marijuana plant roots. ANY HORTICULTURALISTS out
there that know about this?!
more than one species lives in symbiotic harmony with your weed plant roots, this is why most brands actually contain numerous species, also beneficial bacteria, and yes they work very well, what they do is increase the availibility of the nutes you feed your plant, this allows the plant to eat more, therefore you dont have to feed as much to get the same results, which means less salt buildup in the soil, also the beneficial bacteria help break down any salts that buildup and once again make the nutes more available than otherwise.

assuming that one species is what your looking for is incorrect like light its not just one color your plant wants, its the full spectrum it craves
 

Prefontaine

Well-Known Member
ALL mycorrhizae lives in and around the host plants roots. "endo" myco lives inside the cells of the roots and "ecto" myco lives on the outside of the roots.
No myco can live and grow without a host plant to feed from. The spores will stay dormant or die without a host plant.

Myco will form a relationship with 95% of all plants, although we still have a LOT of studying to do.

yes i have seen the affects of myco and its beautiful.



soil :blsmoke:
the endo and ecto are actually in reference to the beneficial bacteria
 

Joedank

Well-Known Member
Ok so I have looked real deep into this and there are only two types to" buy" tricoderma. And glomus iradances. I have used plant success, roots organism , myco success, and the one I keep coming back to is just extreme gardening tricoderma and the plain glomus. The rest of my bacteria and fungal growth comes from good compost and worm castings with a carbo mineral source and surface like humic fulvic sucanate... The real webs come when you lightly feed and don't use every fungus root you can throw in a jar

Be sure to read weather you have 20 different myco in your innoculent as some downright steal nutes from your plant! The azos product shows great promise to be a help in my composting process
 

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
Ok so I have looked real deep into this and there are only two types to" buy" tricoderma. And glomus iradances. I have used plant success, roots organism , myco success, and the one I keep coming back to is just extreme gardening tricoderma and the plain glomus. The rest of my bacteria and fungal growth comes from good compost and worm castings with a carbo mineral source and surface like humic fulvic sucanate... The real webs come when you lightly feed and don't use every fungus root you can throw in a jar

Be sure to read weather you have 20 different myco in your innoculent as some downright steal nutes from your plant! The azos product shows great promise to be a help in my composting process
*AZOS is the shit!!! tried it... and never looked back since.. ;)

--cheers
 

snew

Well-Known Member
*AZOS is the shit!!! tried it... and never looked back since.. ;)

--cheers
I've just added EWC and some compost I make, mushroom compost, etc and I do and occasional tea. I assumed I was providing adequate bacterial activity for my plants. However, I see the roots they show on the web site nor do I have 7 pound tomatoes growing out side. And I do not feel I get the yield I should from my grow and I would like to step things up.

How long have you been using Azos?
What are the results you have seen with Azos?
I see there are different ways to apply Azos, how do you apply it? And at what stages?

Thanks for your input?
 

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
I've just added EWC and some compost I make, mushroom compost, etc and I do and occasional tea. I assumed I was providing adequate bacterial activity for my plants. However, I see the roots they show on the web site nor do I have 7 pound tomatoes growing out side. And I do not feel I get the yield I should from my grow and I would like to step things up.

How long have you been using Azos?
What are the results you have seen with Azos?
I see there are different ways to apply Azos, how do you apply it? And at what stages?


Thanks for your input?



*been using since 2007 :)
**varies dependant on medium, other microbes, soil, etc.. but from personal experience, these guys manage the N levels nicely.. sorry if that wasnt as scientific as you want.. :)
***check the cut & paste below


What is Azos?





Azos (Azospirillum Brasilense XOH)

Is the world’s most powerful nitrogen-fixing bacteria. First isolated in the

Amazon Rainforest, RTI has since cultured this beneficial microbe into an

agressive, high-potency root drench providing tremendous benefits to plants.

Azos will not only boost root structure growth, prevent transplant shock, and

act as a catalyst, sparking the secretion of IAA (Indole-3-Acetic-Acid) and

other plant growth promoting hormones, but it will also eliminate the need for chemical fertilizing. Azos transforms your plant into a

lightning rod for nitrogen fixation, allowing it to ingest up to 70% of its nitrogen needs straight from the atmosphere. No longer are

hi-output growers on their hands and knees bowing down to the market’s chemical dependence for nitrogen fertilizer, but now they

are free to access the bounty of Mother Nature herself. There is nearly an inexhaustable amount of nitrogen floating around us in

the air at any one moment. Azos simply gives your plants the ability to harness this natural nitrogen source and utilize it to keep

your crop healthy through a natural and balanced biological maintenance routine.

Key Benefits Provided by Azos:

Extracts Nitrogen From the Air and Feeds It to Your Plants

Accelerates and Extends Root System

Increases Root Growth by up to 300%

Increases Disease Drought, and Stress Tolerance

Gives Plants the Ability to Thrive in Nutrient Poor Soils Quickly-Inoculates for Immediate Results

(Comparable to a Tea)

Increases Resistance to Root Shock Eliminates Nitrogen Leaching Into Groundwater

(Efectively stopping algae blooms, and dead zones which arise from it)





The amount of Nitrogen a plant can absorb is limited by 3 constraints:

1. The nitrogen levels present in the soil or host medium.



2. The size and structure of the root system that the plant has to “mine” nutrients.



3. The “availability” of the nitrogen present in the soil or host medium





Azos overcomes all of these restrictions

by delivering larger root systems,

biodynamic soil structure,

and a new source of completely

-soluble nitrogen…the air it breathes!



In agriculture, aproximately 90% of the total fossil fuel energy consumed is from nitrogen fertilizer. Transportation to the mill consumes aproximately 25-30% of the total energy and field preparation consumes another 13%. Consequently, minimizing fertilizer inputs by utilizing Azos, would result inthe greatest possible decrease in fossil energy use and its associated green house gas emissions.



Azos is also applied with the sole purpose of saving money. Besides its ability to substantially decrease carbon emissions, it also saves money that would normally be spent on nitrogen fertilizer. Azos helps not only to improve the environment, but also to improve the size of your wallet and your yield. Although Azos has similar benefits as Mykos, Azos divides faster. Azos‘ many positive effects can be seen in only four days, while Mykos can take up to two weeks before it forms an association with plant roots. Azos uses an amino acid to set the trigger, increasing root girth, length, hair growth and lateral root growth, thereby increasing overall plant growth. It can do all this without Mykos, but combined Azos and Mykos have proven to be more powerful. In nature, they occur together in the soil and have evolved to work with each other to help host plants survive in harsh conditions and thrive in normal conditions. Together these organisms do things for a plant which neither can do alone; more than symbiotic — they are synergistic.





Azos and Mykos work in unison, mutually benefiting each other–the AZOS gets the increased phosphorus it requires through MYKOS’ super-mining characteristics, and MYKOS gets the increased, biologically-delivered nitrogen it requires in order to maximize plant growth and yield. AZOS dramatically benefits your crop by allowing for completely natural, 100% biological-maintenance of your crop, while still delivering results that equal and more often than not exceed, the results of chemical fertilizing. AZOS uses the biology of the plant to allow it to absorb the optimal amount of Nitrogen at its own pace, eliminating the worry about “burning” and Ph Up or Down. AZOS brings balance to your plants and with it, comes the healthy, lush, unparalleled quality that only Mother Nature can deliver.





How Do I Apply Azos?



Azos can be applied by three methods, the first and most efficient way being a root dusting before transplant, the second is a root-drench, and the third method is injection into the root-zone. For utilization as a root drench or injection, Azos must first be mixed with purified (preferably RO-Reverse Osmosis) water at rate of 4 oz Azos per gallon. Apply evenly with a conventional sprayer or inject solution through an irrigation system.





Together Azos and Mykos Protect Without Chemicals, Dramatically:

• Increasing Fruit Yield

• Increasing Root Size

• Creating Extensive Hyphal Networks for Nutrient “Mining”

• Increasing Nutrient and Water Uptake

• Increasing Rate of Photosynthesis

• Increasing Cell Wall Strength

• Preventing Disease and the Establishment of Disease Causing Microoganisms

• Decreasing the Need for Water

• Increasing Resistance to Drought and Stress

• Increasing Plant Biomass, As Well As the Weight of BothFruit and Plant

• Decreasing Carbon Output and Helping to Create a Healthier Ecosystem/Envirornment
 

cannawizard

Well-Known Member
Inoculants

Published by Matt Rize:hump:


There are many products marketed to medical marijuana growers these days. They vary in price and species greatly. Many of the inoculant products marketed to Cannabis growers contain endomycorrhizal fungi, ectomycorrhizal fungi, bacteria, and Trichoderma (a genus of fungi). I call these "broad spectrum" inoculants to separate them from the inoculants that are solely endomycorrhizal fungi, or one of the others. These broad spectrum inoculants are designed to work with all plants, and many of the species in these products simply do not work with Cannabis plants.

Some common examples of inoculant products marketed to medical marijuana growers are (prices vary):
Great White from Plant Success @ $100/lb. This product also contains vitamin B1. http://www.plant-success.com/index.php/ … hizae.html
Myco Madness from Humboldt Nutrients @ $75/lb. This product also contains 10% crappy humic acid. http://www.humboldtnutrients.com/root-s … o-madness/
White Widow from Humboldt Nutrients @ 160/lb. This product is endomycorrhizal fungi. http://www.humboldtnutrients.com/root-s … ite-widow/
ZHO from Botanicare @ 80/lb. This product contains both Endomychorrizal and Trichoderma fungi. http://www.americanagritech.com/biologi … -inoculant
Sub Culture M and B from General Hydro @ 80/lb. The M is endo and ectomyco, and the B is advertised as Bacillus. I'm not sure exactly the labels are inconsistent. http://www.generalhydroponics.com/genhy … lture.html

Recently on the market we are seeing inoculants of just one or two species. Common examples are Xtreme Gardening's Azos, which contains Azospirillum Brasilense XOH and is meant to be used in conjunction with endomycorrhizal fungi or, one of the broad spectrum inoculants. Another example is Mayan Micorzyme from Humboldt Nutrients which is unique in that it is a liquid, and the labeling tells you it is half aerobic and half anaerobic. This inoculant also needs to be brewed like a compost tea and watered in, as opposed to mixed into the media as a powder and/or sprayed on the roots during transplant.

"MAYAN MICROZYME: Liquid concentrate. Non-pathogenic immobilized and stabilized bacterial-enzymatic complex. Active ingredients: Azotobacter vinelandii, Clostridium pasteurianum, in a broad-spectrum proprietary blend of microorganisms and stabilizing biopolymer substrate. Aerobic microorganisms ? 330,000 cfu/ml; Anaerobic microorganisms ? 330,000 cfu/ml." http://www.mayanmicrozyme.com/product1of2.html

Some quality inoculants exist that are not marketed to cannabis growers specifically. Give thanks. Some of the most well known include:
BioAg VAM @ $50/lb. This product is solely labeled as endomycorr, although is does contain some naturally occurring bacteria. Dr. Faust is the man, and so is Mr. Zadow. Great folks, great products, great customer service, quick delivery, BEST PRICE. http://www.bioag.com/allotherstates.html
Fungi Perfecti @ $80/lb. Founded by Paul Stamets. A lot of folks swear by this product. It contains endo, ecto, bacteria, and tricho. http://www.fungi.com/mycogrow/index.html

Here is what I've gathered from the pros on these inoculant products.

Ecto mycorrhizae do nothing for vegetables, herbs or cannabis. Ecto mainly associate with coniferous trees. Only endo mycorrhizae associate with cannabis and Glomus intraradices is the most versatile and aggressive endo strain and is the strain with the highest propagules. You will notice that there are other strains with lower counts. These will still associate and have specific strengths either for certain conditions like soil pH and other environmental conditions or specific plant parameter advantages. Our VAM endo is not fortified with pure cultures of bacteria, although there are beneficial bacteria present in the product. Because they are not cultured individually and then blended in the final product they can't really be guaranteed for specific CFU's and therefore are not listed on the label. That being said, even though G. intraradices is the most aggressive and versatile

As far as Trichodermas go, if you search the scientific database you can find examples of mycorrhizae having synergistic effects with them and some that demonstrate where Trichoderma will use the mycorr. as a food source if nothing else is available. Soil microbiology is a complex subject and can be unpredictable when it comes to their interactions.
---------------------------------
I thought I would take a quick minute to address "soluble" mycorrhizae products. These should/are really classified as wettable powders (WP) because they are not truly soluble, rather "suspendable". Anyways, if a mycorr product is grown in containers and then harvest and micronized, like the one in question on your thread, the micronization of the substrate has deleterious effects on the spores in the way of heat and mechanical maceration. Typically you expect for around only 25% (very rough figure and can float dependent on type of micronizer) of the spores to be viable after the milling is complete. Now you are left with mostly hyphae and root fragments to inoculate. This is ok but the shelf life of those compared to spores is low, around 6 months compared to a couple of years for spores stored under proper conditions. WP products should be avoided. In tight soils and heavy clays spores are not even mobile within the soils structures and is a waste to even try watering mycorr in. The best way to apply is by direct contact with exposed roots during transplanting. I believe you are on the right track with the combination of vermi-tea and mycorrhizae rather than trying to continually add one of the broad spectrum overpriced microbe inoculants like Great White. Most of the mycorr inoculants found in hydro stores are private labels of Mycorrhizal Application products... I would also be very skeptical of any liquid mycorr products as well.
 

Prefontaine

Well-Known Member
Ok so I have looked real deep into this and there are only two types to" buy" tricoderma. And glomus iradances. I have used plant success, roots organism , myco success, and the one I keep coming back to is just extreme gardening tricoderma and the plain glomus. The rest of my bacteria and fungal growth comes from good compost and worm castings with a carbo mineral source and surface like humic fulvic sucanate... The real webs come when you lightly feed and don't use every fungus root you can throw in a jar

Be sure to read weather you have 20 different myco in your innoculent as some downright steal nutes from your plant! The azos product shows great promise to be a help in my composting process
Great white works awesome
 

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
Be sure to read weather you have 20 different myco in your innoculent as some downright steal nutes from your plant! The azos product shows great promise to be a help in my composting process
are you referring to only mycorrhizal fungi species only? i do not see how it is possible for the myco to steal nutes? could you please explain that to us?

i am under the assumption that myco only eats what the host plant gives it. Myco can not even survive if there is plenty of food in the dirt because the plant don't need the extra help. Myco can not eat nutes? not that i am aware of anyway. they only eat the carbs that the plant itself gives them. If the plant dont feed the myco then it dies or goes dormant, and in a "perfect" environment the myco will not help at all.

myco and the host plant are in a symbolic relationship , either steals from either.

I am all about learning more though!





soil bongsmilie
 
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