MY True HP Aero Plug&Play Pods

sherriberry said:

what are you guys thoughts on putting a UV light filter tube that the res water would circulate through...

i think it would hurt the nutes and beneficial bacteria.

or would the beneficial bacteria stay on the roots, and then all water is kept sanitized by the UV light.

what do you think?

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A chemical nutrient system is suppose to be kept bacteria, fungus, and enzyme free. The plants contains every thing in the way of bacteria and enzymes need and the chelated irion provides enough helators to provide cletaion effects for the other metals trace nutrients. IE what beneficail abcteris do you think you need in your reservoir. If you r considering beneficail enzymes for control of pythiium that is not need with a system where the roots are not lying in DO free water such as with small tube aero etc. As long as you use water that has been disinfected with chloirine to begin with there will be nopythium in a good system so the compost pile enzymes are more detrimental than helpful in chemical nutrient system. Orgab nic is organic and chemical is chemical. Neither system works as well in a reservoir when contaminated by the other.

If your considering anything you should be considering how to keep everything but the plants totally free of all bacteria, protozoa and enzymes etc. Such as maintaining a low ppm of chlorine residual in your nutrient water to kill any airborne bacteria that may be introduced.

UV lighting would be fine if you choose not to use chlorine or H2O2, but it will not kill any bacteria growing anywhere but in the water itself, where as chlorine or H2O2 will kill the bacteria on any surface contacted by the water containing it. IE pipes, reservoirs, pumps, sprayers/misters, chamber walls etc.

clydefrog said:

that makes sense...i had read about lockout in conjunction with salt buildup in growing media, but if i understand you correctly, the ions are tied up at the point of dissolution in the reservoir, if conditions are right.

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Lock out in soil is due to CEC or the formation of compounds that come from a negative ion being strongly attracted to attached tied up" by a compond with a positive charge, or vice versa. What I explained is basically the same thing but as it happens in a hydro system. In a hydro system it all revolves around Carbonic acids from dissolved CO2 or bicarbonates due to Carbonate releases by roots, or H+ protons. The end result is the same, compounds being formed with strong attractions meaning the compounds no longer want to be broken so therefore they are tied up or locked out. In soil though there can many more minerals in abundance forming compounds that have a strong CEC therefore tying up nutrients than in low pH nutrient water.

fatman... so im going to use an ro filter that will get rid of all chlorine i believe.

so, that being said...

how do i re introduce chlorine or h2o2, and does it hurt nutes? Ive heard chlorine and h202 can hurt AN nutes?

thanks fatman

Chlorine only hurts organic nutes and organic supplements nor mineral/chemical nutrients.

There is no nned to get rid of the chlorinw with a chemical nutrient system. There is a need to remove the chlorine so as to protect your RO membrane. Thin Film Membrane Ro membranes dteriate rapidly with exsposure to chlorine. However, the carbon pre filters remove the chlorine.

Chlorox bleach sold for home use: One drop is nominally considered equal to 0.06 ml, so it would 1.6 drops per gallon to add 0.10 ml (1 ppm). You want to initially add 1 to 2 ppm then maintain a residual level of 0.5 ppm. So intially add approx 1 teaspoon per 50 gallons of nutrients then drop down to 1/4 teaspoon every 24 to 36 hours with an aero system. I do not use H2O2 because it has no residual disinfection ability. H2O2 works instantly but is only good for treatment or disinfection but not preventative maintenance. Meaning H2O2 can not be used regularly so as to prevent problems but only treat them once they appear. Low doses of chlorine can prevent reinfestation or growth of pathogens just as it does in drinking water by maintaining residual amonunts in the water at all times.

sherriberry said:

i am getting this... and they have a uv light as an option. obviously, killing any bacteria before it goes into my clean water RO res is nice... but wondering if i should get an extra and just put that in the nute water res as well.

http://www.purewaterclub.com/

the 107 dollar one.

anyway... if you click it, you will see it comes with a needle valve... im wondering if that needle valve can pierce metal plumbing, or if its only for plastic.

im going to try and tie into my bathtub cold water line, and then just have this thing run all day, and have it dump into a big trash can or barrel.

thanks guys

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if your water is cheap then it makes sense to just run it all day and not worry about all the waste water that is going to be produced getting you the RO water you want. but if water costs more or you have to pump your own from a well i would definetaly get a booster pump for the system as this really makes a difference in the total ro ouput and the amount of waste water. remember if it says 100 gallons a day output thats only at the right input pressure youll get that.

GrayRoanek said:

Sherri, found this forum has lots of scholarly references about activation spectrum of cannabis. Haven't waded through them all. Main emphasis is flatter spectrums are better following the TOTAL activation spectra.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=158600&page=2

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What it all boils down to is their is no one bulb that provides the perfect lighting. The closest is likely the Iwasaki 6500K, however it is not avialable above 400 watts. I use a combination of the 6500K bulbs (cheaper generic bulbs) and the common HPS bulbs. I use straight 6500 K lighting for cloning and the two weeks of vegging I allow while the cuttings are still in the cloning room.

Boosting the water temperature of the inlet water into a Ro filter system also increases efficiency and output. Generally though you don't want to raise the temperature above 113 degrees. You can boost pressure up to 125 psi. http://www.appliedmembranes.com/tfe.htm

so any ideas on the best way to TAP into a hard metal water line going to my shower?

if the needle valve pictured in the link i supplied for the ro machine...

if that needle valve CANT pierce the metal pipe...

then what i was considering doing was drilling a very tiny hole in the pipe with a drill bit, and then lining that needle valve up to that spot and clamping it on...

or just getting some other sort of clamp valve and clamping it on.

ideas?

sherriberry said:

so any ideas on the best way to TAP into a hard metal water line going to my shower?

if the needle valve pictured in the link i supplied for the ro machine...

if that needle valve CANT pierce the metal pipe...

then what i was considering doing was drilling a very tiny hole in the pipe with a drill bit, and then lining that needle valve up to that spot and clamping it on...

or just getting some other sort of clamp valve and clamping it on.

ideas?

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The valve is made for tapping into copper pipe. Steel pipe would require drilling a hole.

fatman7574 said:

The valve is made for tapping into copper pipe. Steel pipe would require drilling a hole.

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so im guessing its steel... house was built in the 60's.

anyway... so if it is, i just drill the hole and then use that needle valve, or just get another valve that lacks the needle?

the needle valve comes with the kit... so it costs me more money to go out and buy another one, not that its a problem, just saying

sherriberry said:

so im guessing its steel... house was built in the 60's.

anyway... so if it is, i just drill the hole and then use that needle valve, or just get another valve that lacks the needle?

the needle valve comes with the kit... so it costs me more money to go out and buy another one, not that its a problem, just saying

Click to expand...

Just drill a hole large enough for the needle to fit through. A little larger is OK. Old galvanized steel pipe is a huge PITA to work with so don't even think about trying to simply take it apart and add a fitting for the water line. It usually takes a hack saw, pipe threader and some new fittings when ever you try to disassemble and then reassemble galvanized steel pipe that has been in place for 40 years. I would say it also takes a big pipe wrench and a full grown gorilla but that might anger a visiting plumber.

sherriberry said:

so im guessing its steel... house was built in the 60's.

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don't guess. if its galvanized, you'd be better off finding a different source than trying to tap into it. galvanized doesn't develop pinholes like copper does when it corrodes...the entire wall rusts away and you're likely to bust a section of the pipe wall away if you try to drill.

if its brown or greenish brown, it's copper.

if it's not copper, i would find a different source (and i'm a gorilla with a big pipe wrench ). most old houses like that have been repaired before and you're likely to find a better source somewhere else.

if worst comes to worse, hire a plumber to install it at the kitchen sink and say it's for drinking water, a common ro application.

Mine is in the kitchen where the rising main enters the house, probably the best place to get maximum pressure. If you have a washing machine outlet under the sink, you can buy a Y adapter to split the supply to a dishwasher or ro unit. It may be completely different over there though

Damn guys... I get busy and don't check in and this thread is 79 pages??? So... I'm still back on page 40 catching up, but I just wanted to let ya'll know I wasn't dead or anything

Can't say things are going fantastic, I had to slap together a quick and dirty DWC for the girls... And PH drift became a real problem But I got the aero mostly going this week and things are turning back around... Though the first run will be a bit compromised for sure, it should still be decent though.

Few more days of fiddling and I hope to have it mostly dialed... Got another parts order and I'll be reworking the feed/pump system a bit and getting the control system properly boxed up this weekend. With the greens were looking as nice as my electronics, but it's a learning process and I've spend many more years honing my craftsmanship then I've had greening my thumbs

Glad all it well with everyone... I'll do my best to catch up in the next few days and resurrect my thread with some new pics and such.


Cheers,

T.M.H.

The Mad Hatter said:

Damn guys... I get busy and don't check in and this thread is 79 pages??? So... I'm still back on page 40 catching up, but I just wanted to let ya'll know I wasn't dead or anything

Can't say things are going fantastic, I had to slap together a quick and dirty DWC for the girls... And PH drift became a real problem But I got the aero mostly going this week and things are turning back around... Though the first run will be a bit compromised for sure, it should still be decent though.

Few more days of fiddling and I hope to have it mostly dialed... Got another parts order and I'll be reworking the feed/pump system a bit and getting the control system properly boxed up this weekend. With the greens were looking as nice as my electronics, but it's a learning process and I've spend many more years honing my craftsmanship then I've had greening my thumbs

Glad all it well with everyone... I'll do my best to catch up in the next few days and resurrect my thread with some new pics and such.


Cheers,

T.M.H.

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glad your back was wondering what happened. dont worry about the learning curve you seem like a smart enough fellow to figure it out pretty quick. my second run is going ok. had some mistakes again but its all going into the knowledge bank for future withdrawls.

so im using 1 inch black rubber hose lines to connect my tubs in my aero dwc hybrid...

anyway...

im debating if i should put some sort of screen on the inside of the tub and try to prevent clogs from occuring within the 2 hoses that connect each tub to the other...

OR if i should just leave it alone for the screen will cause more clogs then no screen at all.

or if you have any other idea, let me know.

ive also considered putting like a VISOR over the port holes...

kind of like your dryer vent has outside your house, but a smaller version of

and that way, as the roots grow down, they get diverted away from the hole.

any ideas welcome...

10 bucks says fatman will respond something like...

"if you drop substance x into the res by each hole, it will create a ph forcefield, insinerating roots, but you have to watch out because your nitrogen uptake will increase .0048 percent"

just messin fatman, you know we love you

tree farmer said:

glad your back was wondering what happened. dont worry about the learning curve you seem like a smart enough fellow to figure it out pretty quick. my second run is going ok. had some mistakes again but its all going into the knowledge bank for future withdrawls.

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so how tall did your shrubs get? i would think you would be increasing breadth rather than length with your system...sort of like prolixus for mj

sherriberry said:

so im using 1 inch black rubber hose lines to connect my tubs in my aero dwc hybrid...

anyway...

im debating if i should put some sort of screen on the inside of the tub and try to prevent clogs from occuring within the 2 hoses that connect each tub to the other...

OR if i should just leave it alone for the screen will cause more clogs then no screen at all.

or if you have any other idea, let me know.

ive also considered putting like a VISOR over the port holes...

kind of like your dryer vent has outside your house, but a smaller version of

and that way, as the roots grow down, they get diverted away from the hole.

any ideas welcome...

Click to expand...

I think it was T.F. that told me roots will not grow through a silk screen, but water will pass freely...

clydefrog said:

so how tall did your shrubs get? i would think you would be increasing breadth rather than length with your system...sort of like prolixus for mj

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last run i flipped at 30 inches and they pretty much stayed at that hieght .they went to around 3 ft wide.
this run i flipped at the same hieght and ive seen some streatch so far after 1 week but i can see them starting already to form tight clusters of leaves so im not sure if im going to get much streach out of these either.(these are different pheno than last run. these are sat dom were last run were indy dom) one interesting note i have a couple dirt girls of the same pheno im using to compare against the hp and you cant see any changes in growth pattern on them yet compared to the HP girls.