MY DIY 21st Century 'Flood' & Drain

Not much going on, but thought to post pics of the single leafs and the one clone where the leafs are developing as normal

No significant reaction to adding the ufo back in

Not sure how easy it is to see that in pic 3, which has 2 tops that one has a few serrated new leafs, but the other has smooth edges.

None have grown that much either, so probably taking the clones during flower is not a good idea

Late yesterday, I dropped 5 unknown seeds (from my Lundgrun Organic bag) in water. This morning 4 sank to the bottom.

Will also germ BrandX cool-ass cross either WWxBG or Woody Haze x BG

they are poly hybrids. G13 x the male

(wwxbg) was the male plant used not the end result

a three way cross, aka poly hybrid is an F1, of when you take an F1 cross(wwxBG) and breed with anything else(g13 IBL) so long as it is not the same strain or one of the parent strains, because this would mean you have bred 3 plants into one, thus the poly part. a standard hybrid would be x2 IBL bred together(WWxBG) to generate an F1

I thought it had to do with Brandx's breeder. silly me. lol

its latin... i used a latin name, and a prefix of latin that is used widely at that too.

how exactly do you define your name? cuz i know arcturus is the 3rd brightest star in the sky. and your picture is of a constellation so i figured you meant something to do with many bright stars

For such small plants they are beginning to drink heavily. Yesterday I topped off with 660 ppms. ~ 24 hours later, I can already see a growth spurt across the board. This is somewhat of a coincidence. Up until now I think the plants were focused on root development

Also, ~ 36 hours ago, I tossed 5 Brand X WoodyHaze poly hybrid seeds into vortex energized water. No tips peeking out yet

PetFlora said:

For such small plants they are beginning to drink heavily. Yesterday I topped off with 660 ppms. ~ 24 hours later, I can already see a growth spurt across the board. This is somewhat of a coincidence. Up until now I think the plants were focused on root development

Also, ~ 36 hours ago, I tossed 5 Brand X WoodyHaze poly hybrid seeds into vortex energized water. No tips peeking out yet

Click to expand...

36 hours? sounds like the dryer may have killed em. all mine popped by then.:/

RE: Seeds. Looks like a no-go. 3 taps are sticking out but not not growing. Thinking most of the nutrient inside burned up in the dryer. I am concerned that they will be affected negatively.

This is a bummer, as my clones are growing, BUT, only 1/6 has multi-blade leafs; the rest are all single blade. Lesson learned. Do not take clones during flower stage

PetFlora said:

RE: Seeds. Looks like a no-go. 3 taps are sticking out but not not growing. Thinking most of the nutrient inside burned up in the dryer. I am concerned that they will be affected negatively.

This is a bummer, as my clones are growing, BUT, only 1/6 has multi-blade leafs; the rest are all single blade. Lesson learned. Do not take clones during flower stage

Click to expand...

as long as they are forming leaves its a good sign of vegetation, just make sure to feed them only N and they will come around quicker.

Don't have N only. Here's a new pic. Plants are healthy, BUT, without more leaf structure, I doubt I will get much in the way of buds



Wait, were you talking about the seeds or the clones?

talking about the clones. and it won really affect the bud structure it will still form well even with the single blade, but if i where you i would look to something where you could get them a high dose of N for about a week, from the way your sounding about their growth its seems stunted this is a good sign that they are about to reveg, in which case you need to give them time before attempting to flower, or you will get a complete halt in growth.

24/0 or 18/6 would be the best light schedule at this point too.

V+B has plenty of N + micros + silica + fulvic, along with good K, and minimal P

I had lights at 14 hours, so yeah, I will crank to 18/6 for a week or so

Also, I just added a few drops of V + B to the seeds, which have not popped any more than this morning.

Thanks.

Yeah I agree with Poly as usual........also it may be time to add more leds/t5/light whatever you got

For those who are not 'current' on led lighting, much of which is flat out wrong, especially the importance of GREEN...

This from StarDustSailor on another thread

Q: How do we utilize green light in an indoor growing environment? Would more green in a spectrum allow a plant to utilize red/blue more efficiently to increase amount of photosynthesis taking place (raising the photosynthetic "cap", so to speak...)?



A: -Well ...That actually is way long talk ...
In summary ....

In low overall light powers ...( small grow spaces & small powered lights ) ...

At this situation ,plants ,"concentrate " on absorbing mainly red and blue wls ......
If much of green light is introduced in low overall light powers ,then it will slow down photosynthesis ,
induce severe shade avoidance syndrome effects (internodal stretching/elongation )
and generally impact plant growth in a negative way .....

So ,indeed ,in low light conditions R/B combos can work almost as fine (IF NOT BETTER !) as white light would ..
(.... very good,indeed, for seedlings ,bedding greens ,leafy small plants, etc ....)

Now...If overall light power increases ......
Things change now ......


Green wls have to be introduced ,at a certain power level.

-Green light will slow down PS systems ,protecting them ,in fact,from photo-inhibition,light saturation ,photo-respiration, etc ....
PS slows down ,but can continue it's activity for prolonged period of time ,under strong light ....
Either full power for a 100 meters sprint or ....at 40% of power for 10.000 meters jog .....

I think you get where this leads ...
Balance between i.e flowering hours (12 ) and overall light power ...
Way strong red & blue light ,will saturate the photosystems in i.e 4 hours under illumination ....
Rest 8 hours of 12 ,plant is protecting itself from light .....Mainly .....

-Plants have "developed " while evolving under the sunlight ,the "green window policy " ,
so for older leaves deeper in canopy to keep photosynthesizing ...(strong light=bigger plants=>deeper canopy )
(thus the lower-older leaves are darker-almost black ,sometimes -,
than newer ,top leaf tissue ..they absorb all the light they can get ! Reflecting only a little back ...)

-At higher light power (white light ), green photons are also absorbed just fine as the rest of photons and actually have quite big RQE ....

So in fewer words ....

The more overall power? The more the green part inside the white light ...
(that's how HPS work,actually .....)

https://www.rollitup.org/led-other-lighting/613358-new-experimental-advanced-diy-designs-14.html

[h=1]Vietnamese cannabis factory with up to 600 'skunk' plants in Stoke, Plymouth, Devon HD[/h]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVBR5EPsiiI

Plants are spurting- finally. I probably under-ferted as these are clones, BUT, still needed to wait for sufficient root development to transfer to the plants.

A couple plants are content to grow buds, instead of grow. Maybe the additional hours of light will kick them off

Note how much the tri-leaf plant has grown. It's to the left of the down spout