MediMary
Well-Known Member
Flowering Tip for my own future reference.
Medi takes the Under Current RDWC system for a test drive, 6' x 8' Screen of Green.
- Thread starter MediMary
- Start date
The Chloramine treatment is basically a catalyst which causes the bond of the chloramine molecule to instantly break apart into two separate molecules of Chlorine (gas) and Ammonia (gas) both of which dissipate rather quickly as the oxygen molecules entering the solution forces the chlorine and ammonia out. The faster the water dissolves oxygen the faster those two get pushed out.
There is no reason to re-dose with the chloramine treatment if you don't add new (untreated) water. The whole reason water districts no longer use chlorine gas is because as soon as the water comes in contact with air, the chlorine evaporates (literally in seconds/minutes) and therefore can no longer protect water from microbes over the long term.
There is no reason to re-dose with the chloramine treatment if you don't add new (untreated) water. The whole reason water districts no longer use chlorine gas is because as soon as the water comes in contact with air, the chlorine evaporates (literally in seconds/minutes) and therefore can no longer protect water from microbes over the long term.
RDGgreenthumb
Well-Known Member
Hey there!
Klo$etBreeder
Well-Known Member
im in on this...quite interested to see you DWC run..I'm all soil right now but plan to switch in the future when I have more than a 10 x 10 space to work with
We'll Dude. What are you waiting for!? Get busy and start reading!!! I want some new rep by tomorrow morning!!!You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to jsgamber again.
It's cool bro. I just gave you a shot!
It's what I fell asleep too last night!hey did you get that link I sen you JS?
I got through the first 3 pages before the conversation drifted off to debates on which test strips you should use. But up until then it is a very good read and it's what I believe from reading around the Internet. I haven't yet personally tested my water for chlorine levels. I went out to my local water district website and looked up the current water quality report. Here's a link to my districts published report ===>CLICK HERE and you'll see they have an entire section devoted to chloramines. What's really interesting is to see most of the micro-nutes used in flowering are already there. In Orange County I get my water from the Irvine Ranch Water District which happens to be one of the premier water reclamation facilities in the world. The purple PVC tubing used throughout the world (most likely in your city) for water systems using reclaimed water is called "Irvine Purple". I took a tour of the facility several years back and it was fascinating to see the different treatment steps the water goes through and that chlorine is not used during the treatment. Instead anything organic in the water is removed solely through active bacterial cultures. The bacteria convert the organic waste products in the water into oxygen, carbon dioxide, methane and a solid precipitate which is collected and sold back for highly rich organic fertilizers. The heavy metal precipitates are sold back for recycling. The resulting water product, though not fit for human consumption, is PERFECTLY suited for public irrigation (parks, green belts, school fields, etc). All of the new high rise buildings plumb separate Purple pipes not only for irrigation but to flush toilets. Dry Cleaning establishments found that the reclaimed water worked MUCH better with the new Green dry cleaning solvents being used and have all converted their systems over. It's pretty amazing how much of the total waste product which enters the facility is recycled vs. the final waste product that has to be shipped to a landfill which is only a speck!!
The guy giving the tour told gave us something to think about. All the water, except that which is lost through evaporation is eventually put back into the Orange County aquifer via irrigation which eventually filters back into the drinking water system and the cycle begins again. Oh and the whole process takes less than 8 hours for a gallon of water entering to be discharged into the reclaimed water system.
Just more science crap for you guys to read through.
MediMary
Well-Known Member
lil something for future reference,
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
Sorry Mary did not have time to read your book any pictures of your room? I would like to see what you have planned for that machine. If you have ceiling height I would highly recommend vertical lighting, I've evolved into growing small forests with this technique. Plants are 3-5' tall when put into flower 
if you are looking for a root zone conditioner I would recommend a good fungacide in veg and just a drop of bleach per gallon every week or so in flower. I've used every rootzone conditioner out there and nothing works better than a few drops of bleach. Just use a flushing product at the end of your cycle like florakleen to get run of accumulated salt deposits. Always ph your water AFTER you mix nutes, no exceptions there. I'll snap a picture of a small vertical room if you would like but I don't want to pollute your journal with a pic of my grow without your permission.
any pictures of your room? I would like to see what you have planned for that machine. If you have ceiling height I would highly recommend vertical lighting, I've evolved into growing small forests with this technique. Plants are 3-5' tall when put into flower if you are looking for a root zone conditioner I would recommend a good fungacide in veg and just a drop of bleach per gallon every week or so in flower. I've used every rootzone conditioner out there and nothing works better than a few drops of bleach. Just use a flushing product at the end of your cycle like florakleen to get run of accumulated salt deposits. Always ph your water AFTER you mix nutes, no exceptions there. I'll snap a picture of a small vertical room if you would like but I don't want to pollute your journal with a pic of my grow without your permission.
Medi 1
Well-Known Member
realy???...bleach in the medium. you should read on what that does to it and to any foods you give it. bleach isnt a root zone conditioner
and flushing agents are a money grab by nute co also. why add when the goal is to remove. if you dont want salt then dont use nutes. they are a salt new in the bottle.
and flushing agents are a money grab by nute co also. why add when the goal is to remove. if you dont want salt then dont use nutes. they are a salt new in the bottle.
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
A few drops of bleach in a recirculating system works great. I don't use bleach in mediums they should already come sterilized if they are good quality. Flushing agents are not a money grab, they help break the ionic bond that salts form so that they can be more efficiently flushed from the system/medium. Florakleen costs me about $15 a gal and helps me clean the salt build up from waterfarms better than plain water. Trust me when you are cleaning 60 waterfarms you will praise a bottle of florakleen
Medi 1
Well-Known Member
dam dood. i just realized this was for hydro...sorry man.
but still flushing agents arent needed. i work at a nute co and its not needed. not to often a nute co will tell you the truth that its not needed....and water is free...lol. dont have to believe this, just trying to expose a few un truths on nutes. if youve fed so its that tough to flush it out with water you need to back off the foods.
have you not used H2o2 that is for cleaning the system out yet???. ...
but still flushing agents arent needed. i work at a nute co and its not needed. not to often a nute co will tell you the truth that its not needed....and water is free...lol. dont have to believe this, just trying to expose a few un truths on nutes. if youve fed so its that tough to flush it out with water you need to back off the foods.
have you not used H2o2 that is for cleaning the system out yet???. ...
MediMary
Well-Known Member
Sorry Mary did not have time to read your book
I will snap a shit ton of pictures this weekend, Give you guys my word Ill post up no less than 20 pictures
I would like to see what you have planned for that machine.
The original plan was UC13gal ~4 site. Ended up doing a last min change of plans, decided to run three seperate 2site13gal setups.
(as well as some standalone buckets and hempys)
I much prefer staggered harvests and this will allow me to run some more experiments on root zone products, compare different nutrients/ bloom boosters, light bulbs, different feedings, etc..
If you have ceiling height I would highly recommend vertical lighting, I've evolved into growing small forests with this technique.
Yah I have been doing vertical lighting since heath turned me onto it 3 years ago, I have two different rooms one the roof height is 8 feet, the other is 9.5 feet.
..... Always ph your water AFTER you mix nutes, no exceptions there.
Is there any scientific reasoning/documentation behind this or just your opinion on the matter?
(I greatly respect your opinion just curious as to your reasoning, as you seem pretty set on it,~ either way the water introduced into the system is the same starting PH)
I'll snap a picture of a small vertical room if you would like but I don't want to pollute your journal with a pic of my grow without your permission.
No need my friend, I have read everyone of your grow journals(unless its a pic not in your journal), your one of my fav cats on RIU, very glad you stopped in for my first show.
Bleach is one of those things that opinions vary greatly on, I linked another respected growers opinion from RIU on it below.
The truth of the matter is many commerical greenhouses use it in their systems.
Is it the most optimal product for root health?!? I simply dunno, I used it before and wasnt really impressed.
I havnt used florakleen, is it like a clearexA few drops of bleach in a recirculating system works great. I don't use bleach in mediums they should already come sterilized if they are good quality. Flushing agents are not a money grab, they help break the ionic bond that salts form so that they can be more efficiently flushed from the system/medium. Florakleen costs me about $15 a gal and helps me clean the salt build up from waterfarms better than plain water. Trust me when you are cleaning 60 waterfarms you will praise a bottle of florakleen
I think some folks can get into the mindset there is only one way to do things, when in reality there are many ways to skin a cat. There are also many other variables that are not talked about, (as an example) if you have a high starting chloramine content maybe bleach wouldn't be the best route.
Give one man a bottle and he recycles it, give another man a bottle and he makes a guitar, this is why I like to include different opinions on various topics where conflicting opinions lay.
[video=youtube;xCFXeChXfcI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCFXeChXfcI[/video]
Medi 1
Well-Known Member
H2os is now been hit by agriculture and cant be that high anymore, we just had to remake ours. less % is only allowed nbow. ive never seen it at 50% either. that may mean rto mix at 50% with water. not the actual strength of the H2o2...
and ya i agree to the ph after foods. not each time the mix will read the same so add it after all foods. you can bind up nutes if not also. and ph should be diluted with a bit of water or it may bind also,. watch the blueish clo9ud in the rez when adding ph solution...thats nutes binding up, not the solution itself. add watter and no cloud
to thew bleach...you like consuming it???, you are if you use it. it will be inside the plant now..toxic. yes i know we flush but a plant dont process bleach so it sits inside the plant waiting for you to smoke it
and ya i agree to the ph after foods. not each time the mix will read the same so add it after all foods. you can bind up nutes if not also. and ph should be diluted with a bit of water or it may bind also,. watch the blueish clo9ud in the rez when adding ph solution...thats nutes binding up, not the solution itself. add watter and no cloud
to thew bleach...you like consuming it???, you are if you use it. it will be inside the plant now..toxic. yes i know we flush but a plant dont process bleach so it sits inside the plant waiting for you to smoke it
MediMary
Well-Known Member
Yes I havnt seen the 50% either, but 35% at an adjusted rate should work fine as well.
http://www.dfwx.com/h2o2.htm
Also Medi each time the mix does read the same, 5.5 -5.8 is always my starting ph without adding any base/acid after the initial dosage on day 1. If my ph was to end up out of that range on the low side or higer than 5.8.
I would adjust it with acid/base/silica,etc to fix the problem, but its almost always at 5.5-5.8(95%).
Plus you have no chance of nutrients binding up since it was added first and given 2 days to throughly mix. I do respect others opinions on the mater, but unless I see something scientific or some type of research it would be hard for me to get away from this as I have personally experimented with both ways and found this works best for me.
But I am far from knowing it all, and I will def reconsider if someone posts up something convincing like a collegiate study, scientific findings, documented research, or at Least a well written argument why its bad, etc..... so far I have gotten"don't do it" which isn't very persuading
http://www.dfwx.com/h2o2.htm
Also Medi each time the mix does read the same, 5.5 -5.8 is always my starting ph without adding any base/acid after the initial dosage on day 1. If my ph was to end up out of that range on the low side or higer than 5.8.
I would adjust it with acid/base/silica,etc to fix the problem, but its almost always at 5.5-5.8(95%).
Plus you have no chance of nutrients binding up since it was added first and given 2 days to throughly mix. I do respect others opinions on the mater, but unless I see something scientific or some type of research it would be hard for me to get away from this as I have personally experimented with both ways and found this works best for me.
But I am far from knowing it all, and I will def reconsider if someone posts up something convincing like a collegiate study, scientific findings, documented research, or at Least a well written argument why its bad, etc..... so far I have gotten"don't do it" which isn't very persuading
Medi, I think you and I are on the same page. So how do people get into this mindset? They don't know how to troubleshoot!
Let's take bleach for example. Throughout the ages haven't plants been growing just fine without bleach? What I believe happens to people is that they get into a crisis with their plants and start throwing all sorts of shit in their water/soil rather than making one change and observe! I've read journals where people have written "...so to fix the problem, I flushed the plants and then added bleach and two days later it's a miracle and they are growing...BLEACH is the magic cure." But this is not true! They made TWO changes flush and add bleach so which do you think was the real solution.
So how do you verify if bleach is the magic cure or not? STOP using it and observe your plants. If they all of a sudden start to die, then I implore you add the fucking bleach back. Otherwise leave it out.
I'm in the same situation with SM-90. I added it when I had a bug problem along with 5 or six other changes (bug spray, hot shots, clean cab and garage, etc.) and I continue to use SM-90 as part of my recipe. But people keep saying "you shouldn't have to use it...it's a waste of money." So I don't have bugs anymore but which of those 5 solve my issue? To find out, I stopped adding SM-90. Within 5 days bugs come back. Add back ONLY SM-90 and bugs die. So for my environment I have to continue to use SM-90 as a regular additive to my grow because of my own personal observation.
You just have to understand that every single grow environment is different. You have to know what the limitations of your environment are and compensate for them. But your limitations are different than my limitations so we have to adjust!
Okay I'm ranting. I need a hit.
peace