ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I'm right about there for my 24ft^2 trellis panels... each.
Mau5Capades: builds & grow journal
- Thread starter Growmau5
- Start date
ichabod crane
Well-Known Member
Wow WTF? You drop that new light on us then leave. There is going to be a bunch of unsatisfied guy with woodies around till the 21st.im on vacationsee u guys 6/21.
testiclees
Well-Known Member
Good times?im on vacation
Bro i checked out your vid where you show a grow where some plants got mammothp and some didnt. Then you added mammothp to the not havez and they caught up in like a day or two.
Is that rapid growth attributed to microbial action? I thought that it would take some time for biology to grow and have an impact.
Whats your understanding of how it was effective so quickly.
Appreciate.
Fastslappy
Well-Known Member
I was wondering about Mammoth P myself , so any info would be helpful Growmau5
Fastslappy
Well-Known Member
i was at the local hydro$sore ( needed sum coco & 2 huge pots ) & asked about Mammoth P
they didn't carry it , but they asked about what it was for & where I'd heard it from .
soo he goes in the back (the place is huge warehouse)as I shop but comes out & has a small bottle ( that size that the radio 420 dudes were selling )says I can have it
but I did pick up sum Azos & will do both on my G/H gro
buildin a tea brewer
they didn't carry it , but they asked about what it was for & where I'd heard it from .
soo he goes in the back (the place is huge warehouse)as I shop but comes out & has a small bottle ( that size that the radio 420 dudes were selling )says I can have it
but I did pick up sum Azos & will do both on my G/H gro
buildin a tea brewer
Hi Maus and others. Hope this is the right place to post this but feel free to redireect me if not.
Have been listening to your tech talks with greengenes and robin on youtube with great interest. All of you suggest that, rather than use a single point source of light (e.g.250 watt hps) it's better to more evenly distribute photons by using what amounts to several point sources (e.g. 4 cobs running at 50 watts a piece). Robin also mentions though, he believes, not only should the light be diffuse or distributed in this way, but that each point source should have a certain amount of intensity (or ppfd) to be maximally beneficial.
As a newbie and wannabe builder, interested purely in micro growing, I'ev been lookng at various cxb models, finding the best bins I can for those models and thinking how I would best cover an area of 17 x 17 inches (marginally over 2 square feet). I want to factor into this the points you lot made as much as possible. So, can you tell me the optimal range of ppfd I would want from each source point and, if you can, translate this into a roughish estimation of lumens for 3000/3500K cobs? In that way I hope to be able to work out the best number of cobs to go with e.g. should I have 4 producing, for example, 4000 lumens each or 16 producing 1000 each.
Hope I'm not being a nuisance and asking too much.
On a side note, I thought the section on the best Kelvin range was really fascinating. As I understood it 3000 - 4000K is most useful because, apart from considertions of spectrum, above that, you lose photons due to shorter wavelength "blue" photons being more energetic (so you get brighter to the human eye lights that produce less photon yield than lower energy. shorter wavelengths) and below that (2700K) the phosphor that is used to redden the light and, you would imagine therefore, produce more photons, lowers the efficiency of the LEDs sufficiently to decrease the photon yield. And photon yield is all imprtant because the plant uses nearly all wavelengths in the visible spectrum with equal efficiency i.e. it doesn't care if it's a high energy "blue" photon or a lower energy "red" photon, it does the same thing with it. Is that about right? Makes a big difference to my understanding if it is!
Have been listening to your tech talks with greengenes and robin on youtube with great interest. All of you suggest that, rather than use a single point source of light (e.g.250 watt hps) it's better to more evenly distribute photons by using what amounts to several point sources (e.g. 4 cobs running at 50 watts a piece). Robin also mentions though, he believes, not only should the light be diffuse or distributed in this way, but that each point source should have a certain amount of intensity (or ppfd) to be maximally beneficial.
As a newbie and wannabe builder, interested purely in micro growing, I'ev been lookng at various cxb models, finding the best bins I can for those models and thinking how I would best cover an area of 17 x 17 inches (marginally over 2 square feet). I want to factor into this the points you lot made as much as possible. So, can you tell me the optimal range of ppfd I would want from each source point and, if you can, translate this into a roughish estimation of lumens for 3000/3500K cobs? In that way I hope to be able to work out the best number of cobs to go with e.g. should I have 4 producing, for example, 4000 lumens each or 16 producing 1000 each.
Hope I'm not being a nuisance and asking too much.
On a side note, I thought the section on the best Kelvin range was really fascinating. As I understood it 3000 - 4000K is most useful because, apart from considertions of spectrum, above that, you lose photons due to shorter wavelength "blue" photons being more energetic (so you get brighter to the human eye lights that produce less photon yield than lower energy. shorter wavelengths) and below that (2700K) the phosphor that is used to redden the light and, you would imagine therefore, produce more photons, lowers the efficiency of the LEDs sufficiently to decrease the photon yield. And photon yield is all imprtant because the plant uses nearly all wavelengths in the visible spectrum with equal efficiency i.e. it doesn't care if it's a high energy "blue" photon or a lower energy "red" photon, it does the same thing with it. Is that about right? Makes a big difference to my understanding if it is!
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
I'd think you'd wanna use around 30watts a square foot. So 60 watts by however many watts whichever model you decide to buy gives you the amount you'd need.
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
Growmau5
Well-Known Member
i just stumbled upon it last night, but thank you for linking it for everyone. I like the video maker's style and he seems qualified and credible to give us a very nice comparison.
I have high hopes for ChilLED's discrete diode pcb! but damn dude, putting up against cxb3590@700ma , that is a tall order for any competing LED.
@testiclees hey brother, i believe it was 4 photoperiods, filmed on the 5th day that it took my left side to catch up to the MammothP side. We must take into account that this was also filmed during end of wk2 into wk3, and I don't know of any other time when a cannabis plant is growing at this fast of a rate.
one of my boys (IBHI from the dude grows crew) got me into Time Lapse photography, So more definitive longer term documenting would be really nice to see. perhaps a side by side from clone...
And also, to my new friend that took me out to dinner with his lovely wife. Thank you again! I don't want to reveal your identity here, unless you want. But I had an awesome time, and it was very cool to meet a like minded person here on RIU and hang out in real life.
-if you do end up re-locating near me, we are going to build you the sickest freaking home grow room these pages have ever seen.!!!
Growmau5
Well-Known Member
you are fine, welcome to my thread and this forum! And thanks for watching and supporting me, Robin & GG.
-I love micro grows! and I love helping people spec them out because a little money can go a long way in creating a DIY build that can offer you some control & adjustability.
-grow space: 17" x 17" ( 0.186 m2)
- @Airwalker16 nailed it 30w per square foot with dimming capability would be great for the space.
60w with a blend of spectra is going to be easier to achieve with some discrete diodes than COBs. I would probably mimic the spectrum that greengene has linked in various places:
if you listen back to our tech talk yesterday, GG describes which diodes offer the best performance in each color class.
A meanwell LRS DC power supply and some Meanwell LDD dc-dc drivers will offer you an affordable and controlable way to drive them, assuming you dont mind investing $40 on a pwm controller.
Alternatively: a single cob build would work as well. a 72v cree cxb3590 3500k run at 700-800ma in series connection with:
(1) 450nm mono
(1) 620-630nm mono
(2) 660nm monos
would allow you to have a simple build on one driver.
If you use the pressure sensitive graphite TIM & the solderless top bin stars from Cutter Electronics, you could put this together in an hour+
* how many volts would you need for the driver...72 + 3 + 2.5 + 2.5 + 2.5= 82.5v @ 7-800ma should get it done.
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if your using a 3500K you can skip the 620-630nm monos. I believe the spd GG showed is for a 4000K phosphor plus 620 plus 660s.
I'm now using 420 nm supplementals instead of royal blues too widen the spectrum. but that's just me.
Growmau5
Well-Known Member
nice catch. i agree with you 100%. 4k with the monos & a single 420nm to fatten that end. cheers
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
It is a 4K base in what I show publically. Worked with it for a about a year and have changed the base since. I have voiced my dislike for 4K many times. It doesn't do anything superior IME. Up or down in K...you always want 630's.
The enhanced spectrums are great and make you feel like nasa botanist. But cost much more to implement a configuration that compares to PPF from pure whites currently.
@Growmau5 I wish I was more prepared to talk yesterday about apache. I was ready for general led stats and theories of mono, but not my apache experiance and how it compares(ed) to a pure white.
absolutely, that's why I look for the absolute minimal to supplement a warm white base. The 3500K base seems to provide that (supplement with only a bit of short wavelengths 360 - 420 blues and a bit of 660). I learned the hard way how much better the apache red (630s)/cool white is better than the illumitex red(660s)/white.
@ Airwalker16, Growmau5, PurpleBuz and Greengenes707 thanks for the more than helpful replies and Growmau5 for the extended build advice. Really good of you to take the time. P.s. I'm on tech talk 4 and shall work my way thorugh them all studiously!
I'm taking away that;
The individual intensity (ppfd) of each light source isn't important as long as there are enough of them.
I need to provide about 30 watts of power per sq ft to provide adequate, or more than, intensity.
It's cheaper to use white cobs than monos to dissipate that 60 (30x2) watts and that the favoured Kelvin to use would be 3500, possibly supplemented with monos providing wavelengths at either end of the visible spectrum not supplied by the cob.
The most important supplemental mono would be at 630nm
Am I cool?
Growmau5 - my initial feel for it was to run 4, each in an 8.5 x 8.5 inch area but your suggestion is obviously quicker and less expensive. I think the next step is the hunt for good bins amongst in-stock items (have to order a 100 it seems with most suppliers if they don't already carry them) and see which particular models of cob that leads to. Having said that, balancing the expense of the build against what I actually want out of it (i.e. not that much!) is going to be a major factor, especially because I currently use plls (cheap, readily available, adapatable) which, although I have very much enjopyed growing with them, will be easily out-performed, I think, whether I use vero, cxb or even citizen.
Thanks again.
p.s. I wanted to give all you guys' answers some rep but can't see the button that would allow me to do it so I'm sending it out as good vibes.
I'm taking away that;
The individual intensity (ppfd) of each light source isn't important as long as there are enough of them.
I need to provide about 30 watts of power per sq ft to provide adequate, or more than, intensity.
It's cheaper to use white cobs than monos to dissipate that 60 (30x2) watts and that the favoured Kelvin to use would be 3500, possibly supplemented with monos providing wavelengths at either end of the visible spectrum not supplied by the cob.
The most important supplemental mono would be at 630nm
Am I cool?
Growmau5 - my initial feel for it was to run 4, each in an 8.5 x 8.5 inch area but your suggestion is obviously quicker and less expensive. I think the next step is the hunt for good bins amongst in-stock items (have to order a 100 it seems with most suppliers if they don't already carry them) and see which particular models of cob that leads to. Having said that, balancing the expense of the build against what I actually want out of it (i.e. not that much!) is going to be a major factor, especially because I currently use plls (cheap, readily available, adapatable) which, although I have very much enjopyed growing with them, will be easily out-performed, I think, whether I use vero, cxb or even citizen.
Thanks again.
p.s. I wanted to give all you guys' answers some rep but can't see the button that would allow me to do it so I'm sending it out as good vibes.
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
Growmau5
Well-Known Member
right on, cree doesn't exactly make their diode comparison apples to apples. I see some spreadsheeting in my future to get all this shit right at various binning conditions.
on another note: CANOPY10 lives!
cobs are only at 10% for the photo.
should I make a separate thread about this detailing every bolt and washer with the GrabCad.com files in case anyone wants to duplicate it?
Silver Squirrel
Well-Known Member
WOW, Growmau5 your Canopy10 is Awesome! Really looking forward to seeing her in action! Great live stream the other day. You always give so much great information on DIY and I really appreciate it.
