Matching Drivers and COBs

SupraSPL said:

This chart shows how many COBs you can fit on each driver. Hopefully it will save DIYers some time or give them some ideas.

If the number of COBs is 3.93 for example, you could run 4 and you won't get the full drive current but you will get full driver efficiency. If the number is 4.1 that is a very good match, full driver efficiency and cost efficiency. (Driver efficiency is highest when the voltage load on the DC side is at or near the maximum)

The high voltage drivers work with the COBs wired in series. The high current drivers (HLG-320H and 600H) work with the COBs wired in parallel and those are good options if you want to run multiple COBs at high current. They are all dimmable. Prices are based on Onlinecomponents.com because they have $6.95 flat shipping cost. If you are buying 10 or more Sager might be the best bet.

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SupraSPL said:

This chart shows how many COBs you can fit on each driver. Hopefully it will save DIYers some time or give them some ideas.

If the number of COBs is 3.93 for example, you could run 4 and you won't get the full drive current but you will get full driver efficiency. If the number is 4.1 that is a very good match, full driver efficiency and cost efficiency. (Driver efficiency is highest when the voltage load on the DC side is at or near the maximum)

The high voltage drivers work with the COBs wired in series. The high current drivers (HLG-320H and 600H) work with the COBs wired in parallel and those are good options if you want to run multiple COBs at high current. They are all dimmable. Prices are based on Onlinecomponents.com because they have $6.95 flat shipping cost. If you are buying 10 or more Sager might be the best bet.

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bassman999 said:

Is there a simple way for me to test my setup for watt dissipation between cobs?

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EfficientWatt said:

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SupraSPL said:

I think the best way to check each COB when in parallel would be a low current clamp meter because an inline ammeter will interfere with the circuit. BUT they are at least $127 for a decent one. You could just check the voltage of each COB and get a pretty good idea though.

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Thorhax said:

is there a difference between running COBs in parallel and series?

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SupraSPL said:

I think the best way to check each COB when in parallel would be a low current clamp meter because an inline ammeter will interfere with the circuit. BUT they are at least $127 for a decent one. You could just check the voltage of each COB and get a pretty good idea though.

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SupraSPL said:

Yes you should be able to get full current or even slightly above. I estimate your COBs would be 237.3V once warmed up. The driver maxes at 238-239V. If your driver is a B version it is probably capable of 1090mA. If It is an A version possibly as much as 1150mA. The driver will self limit the current so that the COB voltage maxes its maximum. So there is no way to know exactly the max current you will get until you hook it up, but I think it is safe to say you will get at least 1050mA.

The 3000K 80 CRi is 4.66 umol/s/PAR W and the 4000K 70 CRi is 4.53. I expect the 3500K will be somewhere in between. I have been using the figure of 4.65 since the CRi and SPD are similar, but now that we have the actual SPD thanks to @welight /Mark/Cutter, maybe our calculus guru @alesh can give us a better estimate and LER. Not sure this graph is detailed enough but Mark might have the CSV data?

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p4id said:

Hi, I am wanting to make more single cxb3590 72v units and was thinking of using HLG-60H-C700B to run single cobs, I don't need to dim, so just checking before i order, as you might know of a better option to run single CXB3590 72v's
Any help greatly appreciated

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SupraSPL said:

As far as performance/efficiency/output, they perform the same. As far as pros and cons of the wiring and driver choices there are many differences.

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Fastslappy said:

Looks good , I like the CPU coolers I just can't ATM afford them long heat sinks
is that wood board with the cpu coolers in cut-outs ? great budget idea
I was gonna use AL angle stock & drill into the side of Cpu cooler @ that thick base on two sides
& use the angle stock as rails to attach each CPU cooler
a self tapping screw will do 3/16" just pre-drill the holes
that perforated angle iron is Heavy to use

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Thorhax said:

I cut 2.75 inch holes in the, i also coated the inside with white primer and paint.
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to be honest i would love to make the next 6 panels i need to make weigh less
I'm currently using 1inch particle board

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Fastslappy said:

I'd look @ anything but any partical board they don't do well in humid conditions (swells ) loses strength & U soon will have a sag If you don't reinforce it

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Thorhax said:

Humidity should never be over 40% in my rooms. have any idea of a good plastic i could use? strong and heat resistant.

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Thorhax said:

View attachment 3585705
So with the hlg-185h-c1400a work with 3 vero 29s ran in a series? I have each cob on an arctic 11 plus. ill be running sets of 6 fans off 1 lpv-20-12.

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