Marijuana grow myths

greasemonkeymann said:

NOOOO, use molasses! it's great! black strap molasses, I thought everyone knew that. no offense intended of course, great with micros, and a super potassium food. In fact black strap molasses is good for HUMANS as well, kinda strong tasting though.... but I know a yoga girl (mmmm yoga girls.....) oops sorry... yeah, I know a yoga girl that has a spoonful every morning, and I can safely say she tastes fantastic.... Oh, makes a nice plant food too. Kinda got off topic there...
I wouldn't use it that often though, it can make the herb burn funkily, and you can have sulfur probs too.
Once a week is safe through the first 4-6 weeks of flowering, depending on the strain, mix a good phosphorus food in there too, and some worm castings, I also like squid emulsion but that's some smelly stuff, but my girls like it, also maybe like a bat guano or seabird guano For phosphorus, and if you are outside, the added N in the seabird guano is helpful for the plant outside, damn near all outside plants are slightly N deficient with the almighty sun shining.

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if you're using chem nutes, chem nutes kill the microbes that you're trying to feed with molasses, so yeah, chem nutes and molasses aren't a great combo imvho.. also, molasses can drop your ph like a rock if you're not careful..
my $.02

and I shou;d

racerboy71 said:

if you're using chem nutes, chem nutes kill the microbes that you're trying to feed with molasses, so yeah, chem nutes and molasses aren't a great combo imvho.. also, molasses can drop your ph like a rock if you're not careful..
my $.02

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indeed, absoultely right, I wouldn't use mollasses in a strict hydro setup, but honestly....f%#k hydro setups....but I should have a huge disclaimer saying my advice normally applies to organic/soil growing, I only use organics, and I've never had a problem with the ph changing, kinda one of MANY reasons I prefer soil, I was advising him to feed weekly if he has reg soil, but personally I feed my plants only twice, I have huge smartpots full of a metric ass-ton of amendments, cricket castings, worm castings (LOTS), humic acid, mychorrizae, alpaca manure (good shit!) bat guano, kelp meal, fish bone meal, and a little greensand and dolomite lime. On top I have a layer of horticulture sand to keep the soil pests away
so I feed twice, week two after 12/12 trigger, and week 5. When I feed I use molasses, squid emulsion and worm casting tea
off topic kinda, but if you guys can get alpaca manure, it RULES, like rabbit manure only better, and it breaks up into the soil nicely, no smell

Llamas. Work nicely as fertilizer factories too o.o

Just remember. Spit happens when. When owning llamas


What about deer and pigs

And unicorns !!! Fuck hydro??? Well your just insane lol.

I'd like to try a hydro set up but with limited knowledge its just really intimidating. I dont wanna waste a bunch of money and end up killing a bunch of plants.

ganjamanotie said:

I'd like to try a hydro set up but with limited knowledge its just really intimidating. I dont wanna waste a bunch of money and end up killing a bunch of plants.

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I jumped right in and built my system for about $130 and haven't looked back! I find it easier actually than soil for the fact that if there's issues it can be fixed pretty quickly and monitoring is simple with meters.

nah, I get you guys, I totally understand hydroponics, and with a mellow or inert media, you can do hydroponics organically without much problems, but I run an auto shop, have a social life, etc, I can only dedicate maybe 4-6 hrs of maintenance a week, sometimes less and that's why I prefer soil. Plus I never really dialed in the taste to where I liked it, with hydro, and with my soil methods the taste is ALWAYS there, just how I like it. Again, not saying one is better than the other, for ME I won't ever do hydro again, just didn't have enough patience to achieve the results I wanted, especially since I already had the results I wanted with soil, I got pretty damn competent at soil grows. Why start over? I'm ok with my moderate yields, and mouth-watering tastes

waterdawg said:

I jumped right in and built my system for about $130 and haven't looked back! I find it easier actually than soil for the fact that if there's issues it can be fixed pretty quickly and monitoring is simple with meters.

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honeslty, maybe i'm lucky, but I haven't had any problems other than pests (I live/grow in the redwoods) can't honestly remember when I had a ph problem, I think it was in the mid 2000's when I got a lil crazy with making my own soil mix. Could have been too much food too, or too hot, I don't know, that's why I like established mixes, and then I bump em up a lil too.
I LOVE vermifire, good shit.
And NO I don't re-use my soil.
Just have bad luck with that it seems, besides I have about 50 regular houseplants, veggies, etc that just love an amended cooler mix, that drains well, like that after it's been used for a harvest
flame-away soil- re-use-ers. Just didn't work for me, too much hassle,plus I got a bad back (messed up surgery), so for me, it's just not worth it, my small grows only use only about 150-200 bucks of soil, and i'm totally OK with that. Plus to be honest, I really like the vermifire company, I've met the sales reps, and they are cool people, so I $upport that.

tekdc911 said:

Llamas. Work nicely as fertilizer factories too o.o

Just remember. Spit happens when. When owning llamas


What about deer and pigs View attachment 3148121 View attachment 3148122 View attachment 3148123

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hah! damn right they spit, and Llamas are mean bastards, and intimidating too. I mean, i'm over two meters tall and weigh like 90kgs, so i'm not small, but those things are mean! Alpacas are sweethearts, they really are, very affectionate, but NOT Llamas, in fact if I remember correctly Lllamas are meant to be protective over Alpacas. Or they are just territorial towards humans, I don't know. But they are bastards
Actually i'd bet deer manure is a good food, seems like it would be...Similar in appearance as alpaca manure, which would led me to believe they have similar stomachs...Soooo I don't know, anyone know? Someone use deer manure before?

molasses is great whether chem nutes or organic..
when used in this manner it's for chelating properties and trace nutrients mainly. but to be clear, chem nutes feed soil microbes as well.
my organic hydro nutes usually all contain something to feed life like molasses or sugar for carbon. the problem is synthetic ferts don't give organic material to sustain life, which is added by good companies. the microbes explode with growth when you first add nutes like nitrogen then quickly devour themselves and return to sustainable levels
you'll notice water with nutes goes bad quicker

sometimes you just need a big ass quote
"the short answer to this question is relatively straightforward. To increase microbial activity in a soil one must make the environment optimal, or at least more favorable, in terms of aeration, moisture, and pH, and above all provide the organic substrates needed to fuel the population. the abundance of microbes in soil is directly proportional to the organic matter content. Thus soils receiving large amounts of organic residues support a larger microbial population. Generally there is an explosion in microbial numbers following the addition of available substrates. However, as the substrates are consumed microbial tissues are formed and CO2 is given off so there is a loss of carbon from the soil with some storage in microbial biomass. Microbial cells themselves become food for other microbes and they too are decomposed through microbial activities. Eventually, microbial activity returns to a low level when substrates have been consumed or converted to compounds that are difficult to degrade that end up in the humus fraction. Thus we see that the increase in activity is transient. The normal state of affairs in soils not receiving large amounts of carbon on a regular basis is a microbial population subsisting on limited resources and metabolizing only very slowly. To effectively increase organic matter content in soil we must add more carbon than the microbes can decompose over a season.
Regrettably, adding small amounts of organic materials like molasses to soils cannot do this. Soil microbes quickly use up substrates like these and little if any lasting effects are observed.

It is well to recall that each soil has an indigenous microbial population that is selected by the prevailing biotic and abiotic factors unique to that soil. Typically it is difficult to add or displace microorganisms to or from a system in such an equilibrium. An axiom of microbial ecology often referred to as Beijerinck’s Rule (Beijerinck was a Dutch microbiologist who is often considered the "Father" of microbial ecology) states that "Everything (microbes) is everywhere and the milieu (i.e. the environment) selects”. each soil is endowed with a stable community of microbes uniquely selected by and adapted to the prevailing physical, chemical, and biological conditions of that soil. Minor perturbations have little effect on this balance.

one can see that there are many factors, both biotic and abiotic, that can come together to foil our attempts to use beneficial microbes in practical applications. It is because of these inconsistencies that biological alternatives are often met with reluctance by users. There is a greater comfort factor in using a chemical formulation that delivers more consistent results when applied as directed.
but

when looking at high sand golf greens lacking a carbon source we see addition of rice hulls peat etc provides a sufficient source that microbes from the root system will thrive in. through a system like this we can control populations and types. as research progresses and we gain a clearer understanding of the characteristics that make an organisms successful in the soil or rhizosphere environment it is likely that we will see the development of useful microbial products for a number of purposes including increasing plant growth, protecting crops from disease, organisms for use in bioremediation or for enhancing the cleanup of pesticides in rinsates etc. However, one thing will be reasonably certain, those that come to the forefront will be based on sound biological principles and will be backed up by substantial research demonstrating the efficacy of the product in meeting the claims of
the manufacturer."

pretty sure that wouldn't have fit the word limit of old riu

Can anyone help me out bro can you use molasses an sweet raw together if you could can anyone tell me how much a gallon thinks

I find that molasses makes the smoke WAY WAY to heavy for me. I've not tried anything else, except for my General Hydro - PH Down, which leaves a bit of a orangey taste..

I am not savvy if there are other "PH - Downs" that offer different flavors.

ganjamanotie said:

Making me feel young. I was born in 92 when Nevermind came out lol

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1992 - my first trip to Amsterdam!