Marijuana cruelty at it's finest

flowergurl

There's treachery afoot
So the pics attached are of my terribly mistreated white widow quadruplets. They came from clones given to me by a friend and they have been through alot. Had to take them off of 400w HPS for two and a half weeks and switch to HPS for an emergency trip out of town. Did not want to worry about the hot lights running when I was not around. A friend, who checks on my house for me, decided they looked like they were dry, over watered them and then gave em a little nute burn despite the fact I was returning the very next day...arghhhhhh! Then came the magnesium deficiency and finally alot of leaf drop as I once again had to leave town for business. So, these poor little girls have been through the war. Finally got them back on track, well, sort of, and they are 54 days into flowering. In past grows I have harvested my WW at 50 days with trichs about 40% amber. The buds on these girls just keep getting wider and sending out new white hairs. Buds are very heavy and dense, trichromes are cloudy with about 10% ish amber. Thinking they need about ten more days and would love some opinions. They have been flushed twice and have not had any nutes for two weeks. Just water and molasses for now. None have gone hermie and that suprises the hell out of me. So, they look a little tired but again would love some feedback.
FG
 

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potpimp

Sector 5 Moderator
They are beautiful! I went on vacation last year and left my new babies in someones care. I came home to find the lights sitting on top of the plants (a bank of cfl's) and some of them were crispy. At least he didn't nute them, LOL. Good help is hard to find!
 

iloveit

Well-Known Member
So the pics attached are of my terribly mistreated white widow quadruplets. They came from clones given to me by a friend and they have been through alot. Had to take them off of 400w HPS for two and a half weeks and switch to HPS for an emergency trip out of town. Did not want to worry about the hot lights running when I was not around. A friend, who checks on my house for me, decided they looked like they were dry, over watered them and then gave em a little nute burn despite the fact I was returning the very next day...arghhhhhh! Then came the magnesium deficiency and finally alot of leaf drop as I once again had to leave town for business. So, these poor little girls have been through the war. Finally got them back on track, well, sort of, and they are 54 days into flowering. In past grows I have harvested my WW at 50 days with trichs about 40% amber. The buds on these girls just keep getting wider and sending out new white hairs. Buds are very heavy and dense, trichromes are cloudy with about 10% ish amber. Thinking they need about ten more days and would love some opinions. They have been flushed twice and have not had any nutes for two weeks. Just water and molasses for now. None have gone hermie and that suprises the hell out of me. So, they look a little tired but again would love some feedback.
FG
Your girls look delicious lick lick.
What can encourage your plant to turn hermie?
And what are the advantages of using molasses would you be able to post a pic of what it looks like (people have been talking about this but not in detail im interested)?

Thank you.
 

stoverdro

Well-Known Member
yeah when i start to grow which is sooner by the day thank god i got some fam that knows how to grow to help me out....i would never trust any one of my friends i know they would fuck it up.lol
looks good for the abuse though bro!
 

flowergurl

There's treachery afoot
Stress can cause your female plants to turn hermie. If you have one plant that turns, it can produce pollen which can then pollinate your female crop and cause them to produce seeds, thus reducing the bud size, etc. Or at least this is the way I understand it. I have heard that seeds off of hermied plants produce more hermies if they germinate....don't know that this is fact, could be a rumor...dunno. I use 2 tsp of Blackstrap Molasses, from my local grocery store, for every gallon of water. I stop the nutes about two weeks or so before harvesting and then flush the plants. From this point forward, all they get is "sweet water" Below is an article from Grasscity that explains it definately better than I can. In the past, I have used it on some plants and not on others and can honestly say, the ones that got the molasses definately had more resin and had larger buds than those without. So I figure, why not, it certainly cannot hurt them in moderation.

Why Molasses?
The reason nutrient manufacturer’s have “discovered” molasses is the simple fact that it’s a great source of carbohydrates to stimulate the growth of beneficial microorganisms. “Carbohydrate” is really just a fancy word for sugar, and molasses is the best sugar for horticultural use. Folks who have read some of our prior essays know that we are big fans of promoting and nourishing soil life, and that we attribute a good portion of our growing success to the attention we pay to building a thriving “micro-herd” to work in concert with plant roots to digest and assimilate nutrients. We really do buy into the old organic gardening adage - “Feed the soil not the plant.”

Molasses is a good, quick source of energy for the various forms of microbes and soil life in a compost pile or good living soil. As we said earlier, molasses is a carbon source that feeds the beneficial microbes that create greater natural soil fertility. But, if giving a sugar boost was the only goal, there would be lot’s of alternatives. We could even go with the old Milly Blunt story of using Coke on plants as a child, after all Coke would be a great source of sugar to feed microbes and it also contains phosphoric acid to provide phosphorus for strengthening roots and encouraging blooming. In our eyes though, the primary thing that makes molasses the best sugar for agricultural use is it’s trace minerals.

In addition to sugars, molasses contains significant amounts of potash, sulfur, and a variety of micronutrients. Because molasses is derived from plants, and because the manufacturing processes that create it remove mostly sugars, the majority of the mineral nutrients that were contained in the original sugar cane or sugar beet are still present in molasses. This is a critical factor because a balanced supply of mineral nutrients is essential for those “beneficial beasties” to survive and thrive. That’s one of the secrets we’ve discovered to really successful organic gardening, the micronutrients found in organic amendments like molasses, kelp, and alfalfa were all derived from other plant sources and are quickly and easily available to our soil and plants. This is especially important for the soil “micro-herd” of critters who depend on tiny amounts of those trace minerals as catalysts to make the enzymes that create biochemical transformations. That last sentence was our fancy way of saying - it’s actually the critters in “live soil” that break down organic fertilizers and “feed” it to our plants.

One final benefit molasses can provide to your garden is it’s ability to work as a chelating agent. That’s a scientific way of saying that molasses is one of those “magical” substances that can convert some chemical nutrients into a form that’s easily available for critters and plants. Chelated minerals can be absorbed directly and remain available and stable in the soil. Rather than spend a lot of time and effort explaining the relationships between chelates and micronutrients, we are going to quote one of our favorite sources for explaining soil for scientific laymen.

“Micronutrients occur, in cells as well as in soil, as part of large, complex organic molecules in chelated form. The word chelate (pronounced “KEE-late”) comes from the Greek word for “claw,” which indicates how a single nutrient ion is held in the center of the larger molecule. The finely balanced interactions between micronutrients are complex and not fully understood. We do know that balance is crucial; any micronutrient, when present in excessive amounts, will become a poison, and certain poisonous elements, such as chlorine are also essential micronutrients.
For this reason natural, organic sources of micronutrients are the best means of supplying them to the soil; they are present in balanced quantities and not liable to be over applied through error or ignorance. When used in naturally chelated form, excess micronutrients will be locked up and prevented from disrupting soil balance.”
Excerpted from “The Soul of Soil”
by Grace Gershuny and Joe Smillie

That’s not advertising hype either, no product being sold there. That’s just the words of a pair of authors who have spent their lives studying, building, and nurturing soils.

Molasses’ ability to act as a chelate explains it’s presence in organic stimulant products like Earth Juice Catalyst. Chelates are known for their ability to unlock the potential of fertilizers, and some smart biological farmers we know are using chelating agents (like Humic Acid) to allow them to make dramatic cuts in normal levels of fertilizer application.

One way to observe this reaction at work would be to mix up a solution of one part molasses to nine parts water and then soak an object which is coated with iron rust (like a simple nail for instance) in that solution for two weeks. The chelating action of the molasses will remove the mineral elements of the rust and hold them in that “claw shaped” molecule that Grace and Joe just described.

As we’ve commented on elsewhere, it’s not always possible to find good information about the fertilizer benefits of some products that aren’t necessarily produced as plant food. But we’ve also found that by taking a careful look at nutritional information provided for products like molasses that can be consumed by humans, we can get a pretty decent look at the nutrition we can expect a plant to get as well.

There are many brand’s of molasses available, so please do not look at our use of a particular brand as an endorsement, our choice of Brer Rabbit molasses as an example is simply due to our familiarity with the product, one of our Grandmother’s preferred this brand.




Your girls look delicious lick lick.
What can encourage your plant to turn hermie?
And what are the advantages of using molasses would you be able to post a pic of what it looks like (people have been talking about this but not in detail im interested)?

Thank you.
 

flowergurl

There's treachery afoot
yeah when i start to grow which is sooner by the day thank god i got some fam that knows how to grow to help me out....i would never trust any one of my friends i know they would fuck it up.lol
looks good for the abuse though bro!
Thanx darlin, came out alot better than I ever expected. My friends try so hard to be helpful. The friend in question also grows, from the same clone mother as I do and can't seem to understand why my budz are so much larger and more potent than his....some people just can't see the forest through the trees I guess...lol...:wall:
I did find a new gardening buddy who has a degree in botany...he promised to baby sit next time I go out of town. He too is growing the same clones and his plants are beautiful....yay!
 

flowergurl

There's treachery afoot
looks, looks a nice yield what lights again?
My set up is a modified wardrobe I bought at Home Depot or Lowes, I can't remember for sure. It is lined with heavy duty milar (cause the cheap light weight stuff scares the hell out of me when it occasionally gets sucked into the shop vac. The heaver stuff seems to stay put a little better and I like to keep a clean grow space) Anyway, light is a 400 watt HPS (sun system II), with a 55,000 lumen gro-lux bulb. The pictured girls are all white widow from clones that were vegged for five weeks and put into 12/12 when they were about 18 inches tall.
 

dnkronic

Well-Known Member
could you use liquid malt extract in place of molasses? Liquid malt extract is used in beer brewing, and is produced the same way as molasses. Both syrups are mashed from plant matter. I believe molasses comes from sugar cane or beets, and malt extract comes from barley. both are mostly sugars, and carbohydrates. yeast eats sugars and carbs to produce the alcohol in beer. I would think that this could be beneficial, but I don't know
 

iloveit

Well-Known Member
Stress can cause your female plants to turn hermie. If you have one plant that turns, it can produce pollen which can then pollinate your female crop and cause them to produce seeds, thus reducing the bud size, etc. Or at least this is the way I understand it. I have heard that seeds off of hermied plants produce more hermies if they germinate....don't know that this is fact, could be a rumor...dunno. I use 2 tsp of Blackstrap Molasses, from my local grocery store, for every gallon of water. I stop the nutes about two weeks or so before harvesting and then flush the plants. From this point forward, all they get is "sweet water" Below is an article from Grasscity that explains it definately better than I can. In the past, I have used it on some plants and not on others and can honestly say, the ones that got the molasses definately had more resin and had larger buds than those without. So I figure, why not, it certainly cannot hurt them in moderation.

Why Molasses?
The reason nutrient manufacturer’s have “discovered” molasses is the simple fact that it’s a great source of carbohydrates to stimulate the growth of beneficial microorganisms. “Carbohydrate” is really just a fancy word for sugar, and molasses is the best sugar for horticultural use. Folks who have read some of our prior essays know that we are big fans of promoting and nourishing soil life, and that we attribute a good portion of our growing success to the attention we pay to building a thriving “micro-herd” to work in concert with plant roots to digest and assimilate nutrients. We really do buy into the old organic gardening adage - “Feed the soil not the plant.”

Molasses is a good, quick source of energy for the various forms of microbes and soil life in a compost pile or good living soil. As we said earlier, molasses is a carbon source that feeds the beneficial microbes that create greater natural soil fertility. But, if giving a sugar boost was the only goal, there would be lot’s of alternatives. We could even go with the old Milly Blunt story of using Coke on plants as a child, after all Coke would be a great source of sugar to feed microbes and it also contains phosphoric acid to provide phosphorus for strengthening roots and encouraging blooming. In our eyes though, the primary thing that makes molasses the best sugar for agricultural use is it’s trace minerals.

In addition to sugars, molasses contains significant amounts of potash, sulfur, and a variety of micronutrients. Because molasses is derived from plants, and because the manufacturing processes that create it remove mostly sugars, the majority of the mineral nutrients that were contained in the original sugar cane or sugar beet are still present in molasses. This is a critical factor because a balanced supply of mineral nutrients is essential for those “beneficial beasties” to survive and thrive. That’s one of the secrets we’ve discovered to really successful organic gardening, the micronutrients found in organic amendments like molasses, kelp, and alfalfa were all derived from other plant sources and are quickly and easily available to our soil and plants. This is especially important for the soil “micro-herd” of critters who depend on tiny amounts of those trace minerals as catalysts to make the enzymes that create biochemical transformations. That last sentence was our fancy way of saying - it’s actually the critters in “live soil” that break down organic fertilizers and “feed” it to our plants.

One final benefit molasses can provide to your garden is it’s ability to work as a chelating agent. That’s a scientific way of saying that molasses is one of those “magical” substances that can convert some chemical nutrients into a form that’s easily available for critters and plants. Chelated minerals can be absorbed directly and remain available and stable in the soil. Rather than spend a lot of time and effort explaining the relationships between chelates and micronutrients, we are going to quote one of our favorite sources for explaining soil for scientific laymen.

“Micronutrients occur, in cells as well as in soil, as part of large, complex organic molecules in chelated form. The word chelate (pronounced “KEE-late”) comes from the Greek word for “claw,” which indicates how a single nutrient ion is held in the center of the larger molecule. The finely balanced interactions between micronutrients are complex and not fully understood. We do know that balance is crucial; any micronutrient, when present in excessive amounts, will become a poison, and certain poisonous elements, such as chlorine are also essential micronutrients.
For this reason natural, organic sources of micronutrients are the best means of supplying them to the soil; they are present in balanced quantities and not liable to be over applied through error or ignorance. When used in naturally chelated form, excess micronutrients will be locked up and prevented from disrupting soil balance.”
Excerpted from “The Soul of Soil”
by Grace Gershuny and Joe Smillie

That’s not advertising hype either, no product being sold there. That’s just the words of a pair of authors who have spent their lives studying, building, and nurturing soils.

Molasses’ ability to act as a chelate explains it’s presence in organic stimulant products like Earth Juice Catalyst. Chelates are known for their ability to unlock the potential of fertilizers, and some smart biological farmers we know are using chelating agents (like Humic Acid) to allow them to make dramatic cuts in normal levels of fertilizer application.

One way to observe this reaction at work would be to mix up a solution of one part molasses to nine parts water and then soak an object which is coated with iron rust (like a simple nail for instance) in that solution for two weeks. The chelating action of the molasses will remove the mineral elements of the rust and hold them in that “claw shaped” molecule that Grace and Joe just described.

As we’ve commented on elsewhere, it’s not always possible to find good information about the fertilizer benefits of some products that aren’t necessarily produced as plant food. But we’ve also found that by taking a careful look at nutritional information provided for products like molasses that can be consumed by humans, we can get a pretty decent look at the nutrition we can expect a plant to get as well.

There are many brand’s of molasses available, so please do not look at our use of a particular brand as an endorsement, our choice of Brer Rabbit molasses as an example is simply due to our familiarity with the product, one of our Grandmother’s preferred this brand.

Thats just the info I needed thanks FlowerGurl
 

GrowSpecialist

Well-Known Member
I just had to sit here and stare at those fat colas for about 10 minutes. They are beautiful. They don't look mistreated at all.
 

flowergurl

There's treachery afoot
If you couldn't get molasses or liquid malt extract, could you use honey? or something else?
I have used a product called "sweet", but molasses is cheap and easy to find so am in the, if it ain't broke, don't fix it frame of mind here.
 
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