Lower leaves yellowing and spotting

fellowfelon

Well-Known Member
Dear fellows,

I am growing this little two week old girl on her own, under 250W HPS
on 18/6, and in the last few days I've been also supplementing with
two 60W CFL's on 24/0. She's growing in coco+perlite and I'm watering
her once a day with what I think are conservative amounts of grow
nutes for her age (feeding every day though).


Today I suddenly notice this yellowing and spotting on the lower leaves!
What is happening to my beloved only child? Is it nute burn? Defish?
Maybe it's the new CFL's? Maybe they're too close to the girl? I'm
calling off the additional CFL's for the time being.


PICS:
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Oh no!!! Please help!! :'(

Thank you!!!!
 
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fellowfelon

Well-Known Member
pH issue 100%
Oh no! Well my water+nutes going in is at 7pH, and the runoff is 5pH! So I don't know what I should do!

Also, will the Advanced Nutrients grow nutes will actually enable me to not have to worry about pH? They seem to claim it's "self-adjusting" or some BS. Is that for real? Currently I'm using BioBizz...
 

getglazed

Active Member
If PH has been historically been ok and not just a recent fix....,
Looks like a MG problem. I provided a copy paste of what worked for me
1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar fed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout
 

fellowfelon

Well-Known Member
If PH has been historically been ok and not just a recent fix....,
Looks like a MG problem. I provided a copy paste of what worked for me
1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar fed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout
Does Mg defish show so early? It's only been 2 weeks... Either way I'll grab some epsom ASAP, though it's actually hard to come by for me...
 

harris hawk

Well-Known Member
remember when starting seeds watch you nutrient use - your CFL's are not causing that issue - at any rate flush for a few days with just h2o -reduce nutrient use. Good eye - you caught it early . At present you are in the Seedling Stage of growth Over fertilization is a common issue in early growth, PH knid of hard to manage in cups; also over watering is another common issue in early stages of growth
 

getglazed

Active Member
go real slow with a plant of this size, I would try the foliar spray/feeding for quickest results,, if foliar spray helps, then you can make a good bet that your soil needs amendment.

Epsom salts can usually found at most/larger grocery or pharmacy type stores. Epsom Salt is Magnesium Sulfate

It is my understanding that PH does not "self adjust' and the chemistry of the "overall" components will drive your PH reading,

ie The overall items in your soil mix will influence PH more than 1 nutrient being able to self adjust for the entire environment

I try for TLO and the PH precision seems less critical in TLO.

My advice,, start simple, wait a day or two, if this problem visibly progresses,,, flush,,, then try the MG solution detailed above. Good luck, let me know if it works.... about 3 days is needed before any difference is noticed.

If you get a chance, take another photo and post/compare to this one for change comparison
 

fellowfelon

Well-Known Member
Thanks a lot guys! I will definitely keep y'all posted! <3

Harris, I appreciate your complimenting my good eye :), but check this one darker pic out, it's very noticeable something ain't right:

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fellowfelon

Well-Known Member
UPDATE:

So it's now been about 2 weeks and 4 days. I had changed my nutes to Advanced, and the yellowy spottiness does not occur in newer leaves. Maybe it was just a phase anyway.

But now there's a pretty serious situation of taco leaves. Leaves be curling up like they some kind carnivorous plant or something. What is that?


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Girl made pretty decent progress since four days ago though, don't you think? As you can see I started LSTing.
 

phil k

Well-Known Member
what are your temps... its one of three things.. salt build up.. high ph level or really hot and dry environment.
 

phil k

Well-Known Member
i really doubt its a hot and dry environment ... also you said you switched chemical lines did you flush the plant before starting the new line?
 

phil k

Well-Known Member
how often are you feeding fresh clean water with no chemicals? water you yourself would drink
 

phil k

Well-Known Member
BTW your plants have been having the tacoing issue since the beginning pictures .. they are just getting deeper into the issues now.
 

fellowfelon

Well-Known Member
Hey Phil, are you saying I'm burning? No, I never feed straight water, as I have indicated in the OP. I thought that was the way to go with sterile-ass coco...
 

phil k

Well-Known Member
salts building up and curling the leaves... but you always need to flush your media when your switching synthetic chemicals.
 
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