Looking for the best LED maker out now

leatherbackturtle420

Well-Known Member
Synce LED raging kush 2 or the California Lightworks SpectraMax 1000.
Both of them are killer lights and you wont regret the purchase. Especially the raging kush 2.
 

Kola_Kreator

Well-Known Member
Lumatek make some solid lights. I know of growers who use their 600 watt models and grow one plant per light and they are pulling 3 pound with a 6 week veg. It's a sealed CO2 supplemented room so not comparable to for the average set up but the lights are def high end quality.
 

SSHZ

Well-Known Member
I'm pulling over 3 lbs. every grow in a 4 x 4 space with the 645 watt Gavita LED, and no co2.........good lighting will only take you so far, you need to master growing too to utilize them properly. I paid $1300 for the led 3 years ago, it can be had now for around $750. Check out some of my more recent grows her and THCFarmer.
 

Kola_Kreator

Well-Known Member
I'm pulling over 3 lbs. every grow in a 4 x 4 space with the 645 watt Gavita LED, and no co2.........good lighting will only take you so far, you need to master growing too to utilize them properly. I paid $1300 for the led 3 years ago, it can be had now for around $750. Check out some of my more recent grows her and THCFarmer.
Post pics bro
 

SSHZ

Well-Known Member
i've been posting grows here and at thcfarmer since 2010....... here's that one.

 

jimihendrix1

Well-Known Member
Overrated. Probably a pretty good light, and well made. And I think I saw the price of these sometime ago, and they are insanely expensive.

Their 800w LED only has 2100umol vs the 880w Mammoth has 2713umol. Mammoth gets 613 more umol out of 80 more watts. 3.1.efficiency rating for the Mammoth.

Mammoth 680w has as many umol as their 800w. 680w Mammoth has 2097umol. 120 less watts, same umol. Plus the Mammoth has an unbeatable spectrum. 437nm-730nm. Bios doesnt say what theres is, but 437nm-730nm is extremely wide. Mammoth is also using the newest Samsung EVO Mint White LED. They go 25nm lower than the standard 301H. This lower nm, is also supposed to help some with the prevention of mold. Mammoth uses a combination of LM301B-LM301H, and LM301 Evo. Mammoth is 4800k.

All this for $800. About .91 cents a watt. And uses the best diodes, and transformers money can buy.
 
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compassionateExotic

Well-Known Member
Wait for sales, subscribe to hlg and u will be notified from hlg everytime ! 20-35% off sales are super common even a lot of refurbished are allowed and the refurbished include 1 year warranty ! I got my 650r by hlg for 410$ out the door on Black Friday !




 

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
Wait for sales, subscribe to hlg and u will be notified from hlg everytime ! 20-35% off sales are super common even a lot of refurbished are allowed and the refurbished include 1 year warranty ! I got my 650r by hlg for 410$ out the door on Black Friday !




I didn't want to wait, called up and asked and they gave me a 25% off coupon on my X. I love that light. Although I know there are probably better lights for less my plants have never been happier. So it was worth it. I keep trying to talk myself down from getting another lol.
 

1212ham

Well-Known Member
hey all

back again asking a ?
what led lights are the top maker

been out of the loop for a few years the ones i know are all dated (looked at sites they do not even have the light i got 3 years ago listed )
If you're serious, consider Grow Lights Australia.

 

sfw1960

Well-Known Member
I recommend HLG. You posted a loaded question so I’ll leave my answer short and simple.

American made, quality diodes, LEGIT warranty. Great customer service.
This!
The discounts are sweet and the CS is even better than anything else out there plus they are the most legitimate there is... almost 5 years old and not a single diode failure - I've got no reason to expect anything BUT the best from Stephen and his wife, family, friends and employees.
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Man, I'm obviously biased, but what do you mean by "best"?

Everything is a trade off. It's easy to get efficiency (photons per joule) if you only use 5000K white phosphor and mono 660nm diodes, but then you're missing out on some of the best parts of the spectrum in the Far Red, violet and UV ranges. Not to mention the large Cyan gap.

It's much harder to get a "true" full spectrum light with efficiency around 3 umol/j that inludes Far Red, UVA and elevated cyan because Far Red diodes are not that efficient (around 50-55%) and UV diodes have a lower quantum yield (fewer photons per joule of energy), whilst current phosphor technology usually produces a large cyan gap.

Then you need to look at features like water-proofing – which invariable affects efficiency because any clear coat or plastic/glass cover is going to absorb light – and robust design (passive cooling, large diode spread for heat management and better coverage etc) that leads to reliability and longevity.

Then there are the diodes themselves and all the other components, such as the driver.

For those in the know, Samsung are good, but are not necessarily the best or even most efficient 3030 diodes (that would be Nichia, which we use – the world's biggest LED company and inventor of the white phosphor LED, made in Japan, not China), while Mean Well drivers are not bullet-proof either – we have seen our share of failed Mean Wells.

In nearly all cases you get what you pay for.

Most LED fixtures on the market today are just copies of each other coming out of the same factories in China. There are not as many true innovators in the industry who actually grow and do the research. For example, you won't find many (if any) lights on the market with more Far Red light (10+%) than ours, but then if other manufactures tried to do it, their results would be different . . . unless they also put the correct amount of UVA at the other end of the spectrum to reduce some of the undesribale effects of Far Red to reap the benefits of it.

Hate to say it, but 4800K is not going to yield as well as 2900-3000K – that has been proven over and over again. There is a trade-off between yield at the red end of the spectrum and quality at the blue end of the spectrum. Green is good for penetration, plant vigour and high CRI, but has less quantum yield than red. Green monos are not efficient, and the green part of white phosphor diodes is again not as efficient as a mono 660nm diode (which is why they are so widely used). The trick is to achieve the right balance of yield, vigour and quality.

Many people will recommend the light they own. Or the one that does the most aggresive marketing. That doesn't mean it's the best.
 

Moabfighter

Well-Known Member
Man, I'm obviously biased, but what do you mean by "best"?

Everything is a trade off. It's easy to get efficiency (photons per joule) if you only use 5000K white phosphor and mono 660nm diodes, but then you're missing out on some of the best parts of the spectrum in the Far Red, violet and UV ranges. Not to mention the large Cyan gap.

It's much harder to get a "true" full spectrum light with efficiency around 3 umol/j that inludes Far Red, UVA and elevated cyan because Far Red diodes are not that efficient (around 50-55%) and UV diodes have a lower quantum yield (fewer photons per joule of energy), whilst current phosphor technology usually produces a large cyan gap.

Then you need to look at features like water-proofing – which invariable affects efficiency because any clear coat or plastic/glass cover is going to absorb light – and robust design (passive cooling, large diode spread for heat management and better coverage etc) that leads to reliability and longevity.

Then there are the diodes themselves and all the other components, such as the driver.

For those in the know, Samsung are good, but are not necessarily the best or even most efficient 3030 diodes (that would be Nichia, which we use – the world's biggest LED company and inventor of the white phosphor LED, made in Japan, not China), while Mean Well drivers are not bullet-proof either – we have seen our share of failed Mean Wells.

In nearly all cases you get what you pay for.

Most LED fixtures on the market today are just copies of each other coming out of the same factories in China. There are not as many true innovators in the industry who actually grow and do the research. For example, you won't find many (if any) lights on the market with more Far Red light (10+%) than ours, but then if other manufactures tried to do it, their results would be different . . . unless they also put the correct amount of UVA at the other end of the spectrum to reduce some of the undesribale effects of Far Red to reap the benefits of it.

Hate to say it, but 4800K is not going to yield as well as 2900-3000K – that has been proven over and over again. There is a trade-off between yield at the red end of the spectrum and quality at the blue end of the spectrum. Green is good for penetration, plant vigour and high CRI, but has less quantum yield than red. Green monos are not efficient, and the green part of white phosphor diodes is again not as efficient as a mono 660nm diode (which is why they are so widely used). The trick is to achieve the right balance of yield, vigour and quality.

Many people will recommend the light they own. Or the one that does the most aggresive marketing. That doesn't mean it's the best.
This man speaks the truth.

as I also stated, the question changes depending who you ask. I recommended HLG, as I’ve went from el cheapo to them, and they seem to have a great product.

if the OP really wants to find a good light, he will read your post and find the spectrum he’s looking for.
 
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