Looking for help with my BHO

Greetings everyone. This is my first post here, however I've been relying on your forum for many months, as I learn about making BHO.

I've come to a point that I feel I have the basics down, but I think I'm missing something. So I'd like to share the process as I've adapted it to the tools I have at hand and see if anyone can tell me what I'm doing right and wrong.

I use high quality trim that I grind up and pack into my tube. I've noticed zero difference quality if I don't grind. Grinding allows me to pack more and use the same amount of butane. I cover with three coffee filters and clamp down.

I then blast outside into a round Pyrex dish. I purge on a water bath heated by a heating pad. Surface temps read around 90 to 100 Fahrenheit. I then place the vacuum lid right on the Pyrex dish and vac without any agitation or scraping at all.

After 24 hours left with a golden/light green shatter that, after scraping, turns to a dark see thru goo that is very shatter like.



What do you think? What should I do different?

Honestly I have very little experience with smoking wax before I decided to start making it myself. My product is really potent, it just doesn't look like the sheets of shatter that I see in pics.

Use high quality nugs instead of trim

Are you using fresh frozen trim, are you winterizing, freezing your trim, butane and tubes? I used to give my old wax guy fresh frozen all the time and we wouldn't winterize. ALWAYS came out black and crappy. Now I dry all my trim and my new guy winterizes and it comes out perfect.

I'm gonna guess it has to either do with moisture content in your material (you want it bone dry.fyi) or some kind of impurity the butane is.picking up either on the material (I.e. non polar ingredients in pesticides) or something that is in your tube.
Back when I used tubes I washed one with soap+hot water...never do that again I never was able to get a good tasting.run with that tube again haha.
I'm guessing the oil tastes somewhat "leafy" or just not quite what you want.

Matthew A Tremper said:

Greetings everyone. This is my first post here, however I've been relying on your forum for many months, as I learn about making BHO.

I've come to a point that I feel I have the basics down, but I think I'm missing something. So I'd like to share the process as I've adapted it to the tools I have at hand and see if anyone can tell me what I'm doing right and wrong.

I use high quality trim that I grind up and pack into my tube. I've noticed zero difference quality if I don't grind. Grinding allows me to pack more and use the same amount of butane. I cover with three coffee filters and clamp down.

I then blast outside into a round Pyrex dish. I purge on a water bath heated by a heating pad. Surface temps read around 90 to 100 Fahrenheit. I then place the vacuum lid right on the Pyrex dish and vac without any agitation or scraping at all.

After 24 hours left with a golden/light green shatter that, after scraping, turns to a dark see thru goo that is very shatter like.



What do you think? What should I do different?

Honestly I have very little experience with smoking wax before I decided to start making it myself. My product is really potent, it just doesn't look like the sheets of shatter that I see in pics.

Click to expand...

1 trim bud always comes out with a greenish tint ........chlorophyll is getting pushed out with the tane
A) to fix this u need to freeze/sub freeze the packed glass tube so the little bit of water in there crystallize and locks the chlorophyll in place ........if u can use a vac sealing system suck the air out and keep the crystals from getting to big and breaking the cells open releasing more .....u want it to be as frozen as possible with out to much time to let freezer burn form

2 winterizing it will help clear out some of it and make it more heat stable once it been purged (can whip into wax)
A) take about 3 4 shots of 99% iso and desolve what u have place it in a freezer for about 2 hours then come back get 4 unbleached coffee filters (leave them together 4 of them makes about 15 20 micron screen) the 1% water in there will freeze trapping some chlorophyll with it ........u pour the liquid tho the 4 filters into a silicon tray to let it evape off and u can collect the oil or step 3

3 during the final purge out of iso or really strong alch(190 198 proof) while it is in the try vaping off in the air u put a UVc light over top of it ........UVc light is the bad kind the one that bleachs pigment in cells like chlorophyll ....removing the green tint even more but not effecting the power of it

4 the last set is the decarbing ..........decarbing is turning THCa into THC ........it is done using heat and time .....it is a balance act the hotter the temp the faster it does this but the faster it does this the quicker the THC can turn into CBN( not 100% been up 20 hours it is one of those it is less powerful) ........look up decarboxylation and u will get the graphs ........i do about 180 for 45 mins ( u do this right before u jar the oil up ) ...........this also heat stabilize it ........u can whip it now to make wax or crumble (shatter takes a vacuum chamber)

Acetone works well for winterization as well.

Matthew A Tremper said:

Greetings everyone. This is my first post here, however I've been relying on your forum for many months, as I learn about making BHO.

I've come to a point that I feel I have the basics down, but I think I'm missing something. So I'd like to share the process as I've adapted it to the tools I have at hand and see if anyone can tell me what I'm doing right and wrong.

I use high quality trim that I grind up and pack into my tube. I've noticed zero difference quality if I don't grind. Grinding allows me to pack more and use the same amount of butane. I cover with three coffee filters and clamp down.

I then blast outside into a round Pyrex dish. I purge on a water bath heated by a heating pad. Surface temps read around 90 to 100 Fahrenheit. I then place the vacuum lid right on the Pyrex dish and vac without any agitation or scraping at all.

After 24 hours left with a golden/light green shatter that, after scraping, turns to a dark see thru goo that is very shatter like.



What do you think? What should I do different?

Honestly I have very little experience with smoking wax before I decided to start making it myself. My product is really potent, it just doesn't look like the sheets of shatter that I see in pics.

Click to expand...

Looks like poop dude, don't smoke it! I would recommend looking in to rosin.. Easy.. Better yields.. SAFE & TERPS BRO

well here is what I would recommend. dissolve it in a 1/2 cup of hot everclear or other high proof(190ish) alcohol for drinking is a glass jar with a lid, shake, open to vent ,shake, open to vent over and over. after it is fully dissolved let it cool with the lid off to avoid pressure build up, once room temp ish screw the lid on and toss it in the freezer for a few days. 48 hrs. take it out marvel at the separation and filter it through a coffee filter in to your pyrex blasting pan (maybe a LIGHT breeze from a fan) then let it evaporate. as it does you will see a bunch of milky like fluid don't freak out its just the water in the alcohol. once it is has mostly gone to a more superthick goo texture scrape it up and purge it in your vac chamber.

caveman117 said:

I'm gonna guess it has to either do with moisture content in your material (you want it bone dry.fyi) or some kind of impurity the butane is.picking up either on the material (I.e. non polar ingredients in pesticides) or something that is in your tube.
Back when I used tubes I washed one with soap+hot water...never do that again I never was able to get a good tasting.run with that tube again haha.
I'm guessing the oil tastes somewhat "leafy" or just not quite what you want.

Click to expand...

Never clean with anything besides hot water or everclear/alcohol.

Just Let Me Be Faded said:

Looks like poop dude, don't smoke it! I would recommend looking in to rosin.. Easy.. Better yields.. SAFE & TERPS BRO

Click to expand...

Fuck that! Not poop at all! If you wanna refine it some more, winterization would be best. Just search and you'll find plenty about it throughout here. Or just ask us. I use a pretty specific method with a buchner funnel and a thick 3-5 micron glass filter. You can get a lot simpler like R&R said. Though I would suggest putting all your tools in the freezer for a few hours before doing your filtering IN the freezer. You don't want your trash ice to melt and pass through! Also did you flip it and keep folding it back to a smaller puck while in vac? If so then I'd say your done with the vac. Just let your ethanol/everclear completely evaporate on it's own on a heating pad under a fan. I've found no benefit in vacing after winterization, but a lot of benefit when properly vacing before. Oh and dry ice in the freezer will cut that 48 to only 36! Oh yeah, always seal your tube up air tight and freeze at least a day before blasting. And I like my material to be as dry as possible.

budolskie said:

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I wouldn't suggest blasting directly on parchment. I only use glass for that part. I can see how it would be easier that way and might not be bad, but I just don't trust it.

justugh said:

1 trim bud always comes out with a greenish tint ........chlorophyll is getting pushed out with the tane
A) to fix this u need to freeze/sub freeze the packed glass tube so the little bit of water in there crystallize and locks the chlorophyll in place ........if u can use a vac sealing system suck the air out and keep the crystals from getting to big and breaking the cells open releasing more .....u want it to be as frozen as possible with out to much time to let freezer burn form

2 winterizing it will help clear out some of it and make it more heat stable once it been purged (can whip into wax)
A) take about 3 4 shots of 99% iso and desolve what u have place it in a freezer for about 2 hours then come back get 4 unbleached coffee filters (leave them together 4 of them makes about 15 20 micron screen) the 1% water in there will freeze trapping some chlorophyll with it ........u pour the liquid tho the 4 filters into a silicon tray to let it evape off and u can collect the oil or step 3

3 during the final purge out of iso or really strong alch(190 198 proof) while it is in the try vaping off in the air u put a UVc light over top of it ........UVc light is the bad kind the one that bleachs pigment in cells like chlorophyll ....removing the green tint even more but not effecting the power of it

4 the last set is the decarbing ..........decarbing is turning THCa into THC ........it is done using heat and time .....it is a balance act the hotter the temp the faster it does this but the faster it does this the quicker the THC can turn into CBN( not 100% been up 20 hours it is one of those it is less powerful) ........look up decarboxylation and u will get the graphs ........i do about 180 for 45 mins ( u do this right before u jar the oil up ) ...........this also heat stabilize it ........u can whip it now to make wax or crumble (shatter takes a vacuum chamber)

Click to expand...

2 Dude you gotta freeze way longer!

3 Never heard of that, but does make sense I guess. I'll have to test that next time 4 sure!

4 WTF?! I'm totally lost now!

Drowning-Man said:

Acetone works well for winterization as well.

Click to expand...

Na man I gotta have my booze!

bez420 said:

2 Dude you gotta freeze way longer!

3 Never heard of that, but does make sense I guess. I'll have to test that next time 4 sure!

4 WTF?! I'm totally lost now!

Click to expand...

2 no u do not u just need the water to freeze the ALCH is not going to freeze untill u get lower then -190......water freezes at 32 f .......use a block of dry ice set the bottle or what ever on that around that u are frozen with in mins

3 it is a processors trick to make it look better.....24 to 72 hours direct UVc light on the oil as it purges out

4 u do not know about decarb ..........it turns THCa into active THC ........it makes the oil stronger
read
http://herb.co/decarboxylation/
https://www.leafly.com/news/cannabis-101/what-is-decarboxylation

justugh said:

2 no u do not u just need the water to freeze the ALCH is not going to freeze untill u get lower then -190......water freezes at 32 f .......use a block of dry ice set the bottle or what ever on that around that u are frozen with in mins

3 it is a processors trick to make it look better.....24 to 72 hours direct UVc light on the oil as it purges out

4 u do not know about decarb ..........it turns THCa into active THC ........it makes the oil stronger
read
http://herb.co/decarboxylation/
https://www.leafly.com/news/cannabis-101/what-is-decarboxylation

Click to expand...

Butane freezes at -66 I believe. Will read thanx.

bez420 said:

Butane freezes at -66 I believe. Will read thanx.

Click to expand...

n-Butane freezes/melts at -140C/220F, but turns to jello and gets hard to push/pull before that. We run a 50/50 blend when running below -30C.

bez420 said:

Butane freezes at -66 I believe. Will read thanx.

Click to expand...

no it does not ........if it did it would of locked up in the passive system (using denatured alch with dry ice .......i got that to below -100 it sitting in the alch. with 3 chucks of dry ice around it)
dry ice is -109........when the ice is under the alch and is not bubbling the alch is near -100 .........the alch is -173 to freeze solid

like the other guy said at -140 or -138 the N-butane can still form back into gas (melting point)
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/butane-d_1415.html