Lollipopping ( Any Scientific Evidence? )

DCobeen said:

Okay they plant will lean towards the light at first then the fan leaves will begin to grow bigger wasting energy so it can get more light and use it. I will say this bigger buds is not always better buds. I have grown them big and small. I grew outdoors which was so much easier. I think UB is just trying to get you all to try and let a plant grow itself without removing leaves for flowering. I can say I was happy both ways. leaving them on and removing 30% of the lower ones. I am no an expert I just let them grow and test them. I am still learning what my C99 strain can do. I know it can be trained and grow into a bush then not stretch as much. or i can let it grow up and chop the top 10-18 inches off every 2 weeks which doesnt stop it from growing up huge. These plants have all by then selves used all the energy in the bottom 15% of the plants so far. It is eating more everyday. I think there can be great info and comparison if we all be more constructive and helpful. UB is straight to the point here and not so on the other site. I know there we dont have drama because we dont spread bad information. I am not sure lollipop is bad. even though it does go against the rules. But hey 95% of us is going against the rules to grow this plant so sometimes thinking outside the box is good.

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"Wasting energy" is a ganja myth. There is nothing about that in Nature or Botany to even have you propose such a thing.

She put that fan leaf there in response to the environment and when she is done she will pull the sugars and drop that leave as a crispy critter.

Ninjabowler said:

Wow, seems uncle ben still hasnt figured out that you get better, bigger, more fully developed buds when theres light getting to them. Youd think a guy with a head of knowledge like he has would be able to look at a cannabis plant and see how poorly the bottom buds turn out on some genetics and concede. If you grow big canopies indoor youll see light green underdeveloped scraglies where theres a lack of light. Same thing with pruning a tomato plant. Its common sense. Proper pruning produces better quality more uniform fruits. Fact. Weed isnt some wonder plant that is special.

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You have not figured out anything. You assume the smaller bottom flowers are from a "lack of light." No. You have no evidence of that. You are just arguing Ganja Myths. You have not done years of experiments and published articles about the results, have you? Yet, UB, has.

We are not growing fruit here. Tomato is a fruit with giant water blubs as the product. This is a Bract Flowering plant akin to Hops.

And have you ever topped a plant and let more light to the bottom? I have. It is meaningless. The buds will continue to mature along the timeline, but they don't get suddenly bigger and better for the extra light.

The plant makes THC top to bottom, just more at the top, is all. If you add side lights or what ever, you are just adding total watt. The more watts the better.

Total watts is yield, feeding correctly is yield. Heavy trimming lowers yield since you take the leaves that are hard at work.

Trimming tomato lowers yield. It makes uniform, larger fruit, but you reduce the total yield weight. If you are growing for tomato sauce, it is completely different. Then you are after total weight.

skunkd0c said:

what is this all about ^^ ?
are you thinking about writing a grow book lol

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Nope, i'm just verbose like that (some people appreciate the attempt at precision, others consider it an unappealing character flaw). It would be wildly presumptuous (and quite premature) of me to assume i know enough about growing cannabis to write a book. I obviously am not an expert yet, but you might be surprised how far a logical mind making and analyzing observations, can take you. I doubt i'll live long enough to become the cannabis guru i'd like to be, but if that ends up happening, i will probably write about it. Don't stay tuned, i've got at least a decade to grow, before any such thing could happen. Or maybe i'm a fast learner?

Uncle Ben said:

Has nothing to do with light, shit-fer-brains. See the other defoliation threads and stop making a fool of yourself. You too have never grown outdoors and don't know what you're talking about.

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Im pretty sure this thread started with an indoor growing question. I know how your unable to let any thread that involves defoliation pass by and not try and take it over and make it all about how smart UB is but your wrong again. Its like clockwork and your like a moth to the flame you fool.
Every one of us experienced indoor growers knows that if your indoor plants are too densely packed together or jammed into a corner that theyll end up pale, yellowish, undeveloped, fluffy, unripe, tiny, and just junk where the light doesnt penetrate. So us pro indoor growers (weed not oranges) take steps to prevent unsavory bud production and increase the production of pristine ripe large buds....its called lolly popping.
Lolly popping is done because in an indoor grow there is no sun to slowly move over the plant, changing light angles and making sure that all sides of the plant get some splash of light energy to the leaves that power your bud production.
So ya, once again UB youve flapped your mouth mouth in the wrong thread. Maybe you should try indoor growing for a while and you might see that your wrong and that you are indeed the fool. Thats what happens when your old and think you know it all...you say stupid things people laugh at you

Doer said:

You have not figured out anything. You assume the smaller bottom flowers are from a "lack of light." No. You have no evidence of that. You are just arguing Ganja Myths. You have not done years of experiments and published articles about the results, have you? Yet, UB, has.

We are not growing fruit here. Tomato is a fruit with giant water blubs as the product. This is a Bract Flowering plant akin to Hops.

And have you ever topped a plant and let more light to the bottom? I have. It is meaningless. The buds will continue to mature along the timeline, but they don't get suddenly bigger and better for the extra light.

The plant makes THC top to bottom, just more at the top, is all. If you add side lights or what ever, you are just adding total watt. The more watts the better.

Total watts is yield, feeding correctly is yield. Heavy trimming lowers yield since you take the leaves that are hard at work.

Trimming tomato lowers yield. It makes uniform, larger fruit, but you reduce the total yield weight. If you are growing for tomato sauce, it is completely different. Then you are after total weight.

Click to expand...

I used to be all about the highest yield which is fun. Then i realized that with untrimmed plants comes a lot of unsavory buds. So now i try and make a more uniform product and lolly popping is a great tool to make that happen. Its what the dispensaries want, you want to smoke all your plant and get a huge bag then go ahead. Dont trim it. When your actually the tomato farmer selling fruit to market instead of for tomato sauce like hienz, you manipulate your plants, period.
Three runs back i had some ak plants that tiny buds except for the top colas. Tiny all the way down. Lolly popped all the bud was large enough to become useful for more than just edibles or extractions. Which is a good thing because that ak is an amazing sativa high that gives you energy for hours on end and i almost got rid of it due to small bud size.

Ninjabowler said:

Im pretty sure this thread started with an indoor growing question. I know how your unable to let any thread that involves defoliation pass by and not try and take it over and make it all about how smart UB is but your wrong again. Its like clockwork and your like a moth to the flame you fool.
Every one of us experienced indoor growers knows that if your indoor plants are too densely packed together or jammed into a corner that theyll end up pale, yellowish, undeveloped, fluffy, unripe, tiny, and just junk where the light doesnt penetrate. So us pro indoor growers (weed not oranges) take steps to prevent unsavory bud production and increase the production of pristine ripe large buds....its called lolly popping.
Lolly popping is done because in an indoor grow there is no sun to slowly move over the plant, changing light angles and making sure that all sides of the plant get some splash of light energy to the leaves that power your bud production.
So ya, once again UB youve flapped your mouth mouth in the wrong thread. Maybe you should try indoor growing for a while and you might see that your wrong and that you are indeed the fool. Thats what happens when your old and think you know it all...you say stupid things people laugh at you

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is why we lollipop. this post and the other post. nicely put Ninja.

Doer said:

"Wasting energy" is a ganja myth. There is nothing about that in Nature or Botany to even have you propose such a thing.

She put that fan leaf there in response to the environment and when she is done she will pull the sugars and drop that leave as a crispy critter.

Click to expand...

Its all about how they use the energy of the light in photosynthesis ect. When it has to find the light the fan leaves will become bigger and it will not be using those resources in producing new growth. That is what i was saying. When i see a plant with giant ass fan leaves it tells me low light levels in the required 420-460/620-660 range. I was gonna remove some leaves on the bottom of my giant ass 6'6 inch plants but UB convinced me not too. I am loosing leaves cause of a few issues earlier on. I now have it trucking along but the damage was done. I totally understand how to grow plants. I am trying a new way to learn and AIS is what i will switch back too.That is hydro Soil. I will use my learning experience and improve. We are all learning here. It is all about doing what works for you. For everyone who said it doesn't work cause I read a book means nothing to me. Now trying new things and finding how to trick these weeds into doing something diff means you learned them and if it works for you who cares what anyone thinks. If you say no way doesn't work, I say have you tried it yet when you learned how to grow a decent plant? This reminds me of when they said no way can we fly. yep same BS. I agree there are ways that are known to work but who says that is the only way. Vertical scrogs is the way i am heading with AIS. Then i should be able to keep all leaves intact. doing horizontal indoors and keeping them is tuff. I say if you can congrats you are farther along than I am. Please dont take this as me being an ass but as I am just voicing how i feel.

Ya, you cant really keep all your leaves from falling off in dirt lol i have a girl who comes out every week to remove falling leaves. It just happens. Hydro systems that are running well should hold leaves much better but they just fall. Its the life cycle of the plant and hydro is in no way what nature intended....its better than nature, so there are obvious benifits. Good luck man.

DCobeen said:

When i see a plant with giant ass fan leaves it tells me low light levels in the required 420-460/620-660 range.

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Gotta disagree here. In my case, the one receiving the most direct and intense light, has the biggest leaves; easily twice as big as the rest. The Cree cxa3070 does not lack light in the ranges you mentioned; in fact, it focuses/specializes in those very ranges. It spikes in both, but is red-heavy, with still plenty of blue, and minimal green. The spectral curve graph of that particular cob has been posted here and elsewhere, many times.

I have... a few, beneath a pair of 3070s, and the 3070s are adjacent to each other, which creates a super-intense PAR overlap region in the center, where the center plant has enormous primary (and secondary) fan leaves, while every other one's fan leaves are literally half the size or less. I actually bleached them a bit early on, because those crees are pretty intense, and i had them a little too close (but the node spacing was awesome, pre-stretch, and before i had to back the lamp away to let them recover...). Those biggest leaves are also the darkest and most opaque. My hypothesis is that the plant "senses" that there is SO MUCH useful light, that it "knows" it doesn't need to go "up," but needs to grow the leaves as big/wide as possible, to harness all of it, because it Doesn't have to "reach" for anything; everything it needs is right there in its face; it merely has to grow straight out and up, and more leaf surface = more photosynthesis ("senses" may be the wrong term; it's likely more accurate to say that it simply grows the most where it touches the most and best light... due to an abundance, which accelerates growth... and since it's getting plenty of intensity, it favors horizontal growth instead of vertical growth). The others stretch more and exhibit "reaching" characteristics, whereas the one in the center simply "gets huge." It's also got the thickest stalk (6wks above ground, 2wks into bloom, stalk thick like a thumb, trying to grow roots out of its neck, despite being buried deeper than the others at transplant). Prior to flip, it was the shortest, bushiest, widest, and was the first to pop. It stretched a bit and caught up, then vertically surpassed all but one, and i had to tie it down to prevent it from "stealing" light from the others. It was hogging the PAR overlap cone and depriving the others of direct light. On each side of that one, one is stretching like crazy, while the other seems to have stretched very little, if at all (which means it's now receiving mostly obstructed "filtered" light; i think i'm stuck with this issue, because i don't want to do anything drastic and stress them at this point), but has the prettiest leaves (this is the one that has been the prettiest from the beginning, which i suspected might turn out male, but didn't). However: the cxa3070 "lacks green" (not completely, but relatively speaking), so when blue and red are filtered by upper leaves, there isn't much green left to reflect or penetrate opaque leaves. Ideally, i'd should use 2 more of these same cobs, but it's not necessary. I just have more canopy than PAR cone, partly due to configuration. Everything in that PAR overlap zone is thriving; everything else is "just okay." I don't have dying leaves everywhere; just a few, at the bottom, because the canopy has already claimed the majority of useful light. My lowest massive fan leaves will probably go soon... because they don't get much light anymore, due to the massive fan leaves above them, as well as all the other flower sites occupying all available PAR cone space.

TL;DR:

cxa3070 delivers primarily red and blue, and of mine, the one directly beneath the lamp, receiving the highest amount of intensity, has enormous leaves, while the others are at best half the size, despite the fact they clearly receive less of the exact same spectrum and intensity. Everything in my "hot spot" gets huge and dark; everything else is smaller, brighter, thinner, less opaque. Top leaves tend to be darkest and most opaque (after sufficiently maturing, of course).

If the "not enough red/blue" assertion were correct, the lowest leaves, and those on the edges, would be the biggest; not the ones directly in the center of the highest intensity zone.

Doer said:

"Wasting energy" is a ganja myth. There is nothing about that in Nature or Botany to even have you propose such a thing.

Click to expand...

I don't think its a myth, from first hand experience. I grow Outdoors only getting light from fairly high in the sky I need to get my plants as tall as possible quickly. And there is no point for me to keep the lower 2-3 FEET of branches. Because yes it would be a waste of energy to let all my water and food be used on these weak branches that only produce dime sized buds (because of lack of light). Especially only hauling so much water per week I need it to make sure all the energy (food and water) is being put to the tops.

Not only is it your nutrient energy being put to good use, when it comes time to trimming I would rather have more top colas than bottom popcorn trimming to do. Save on trimming time and back pain.

these 2 pics are what I consider Pretty well trimmed of "pointless" branches and lower growth. After not trimming at all last year I learned that was a huge mistake. I guess you could go overboard but I don't think you could really trim so much that you are effecting yield. You would have to be taking off some main branches and that's no what we're trying to do.

*first pic isn't too good at showing my point, but the back side is all trimmed up too, its right up against those trees so the branches don't get light and don't grow (snip snip)..but the 2nd you can see how if it had lower branches they wouldn't be doing much.

****And that is a bottomless pot, It is Impressive but the roots can go into the ground***

bud nugbong said:

I don't think its a myth, from first hand experience. I grow Outdoors only getting light from fairly high in the sky I need to get my plants as tall as possible quickly. And there is no point for me to keep the lower 2-3 FEET of branches. Because yes it would be a waste of energy to let all my water and food be used on these weak branches that only produce dime sized buds (because of lack of light). Especially only hauling so much water per week I need it to make sure all the energy (food and water) is being put to the tops.

Not only is it your nutrient energy being put to good use, when it comes time to trimming I would rather have more top colas than bottom popcorn trimming to do. Save on trimming time and back pain.

these 2 pics are what I consider Pretty well trimmed of "pointless" branches and lower growth. After not trimming at all last year I learned that was a huge mistake. I guess you could go overboard but I don't think you could really trim so much that you are effecting yield. You would have to be taking off some main branches and that's no what we're trying to do.

*first pic isn't too good at showing my point, but the back side is all trimmed up too, its right up against those trees so the branches don't get light and don't grow (snip snip)..but the 2nd you can see how if it had lower branches they wouldn't be doing much.

Click to expand...

That 2nd pic... love the "gallon jug for scale." That pot looks a bit small for that plant! But i guess it isn't...

lol I always get that, I forgot to mention it is a bottomless pot, But the hole I dug under it is only the size of the gallon jug so it is pretty impressive for the root systems size. Roots organic in the little hole, but all clay and rocks around that.

reasonevangelist said:

Gotta disagree here. In my case, the one receiving the most direct and intense light, has the biggest leaves; easily twice as big as the rest. The Cree cxa3070 does not lack light in the ranges you mentioned; in fact, it focuses/specializes in those very ranges. It spikes in both, but is red-heavy, with still plenty of blue, and minimal green. The spectral curve graph of that particular cob has been posted here and elsewhere, many times.

I have... a few, beneath a pair of 3070s, and the 3070s are adjacent to each other, which creates a super-intense PAR overlap region in the center, where the center plant has enormous primary (and secondary) fan leaves, while every other one's fan leaves are literally half the size or less. I actually bleached them a bit early on, because those crees are pretty intense, and i had them a little too close (but the node spacing was awesome, pre-stretch, and before i had to back the lamp away to let them recover...). Those biggest leaves are also the darkest and most opaque. My hypothesis is that the plant "senses" that there is SO MUCH useful light, that it "knows" it doesn't need to go "up," but needs to grow the leaves as big/wide as possible, to harness all of it, because it Doesn't have to "reach" for anything; everything it needs is right there in its face; it merely has to grow straight out and up, and more leaf surface = more photosynthesis ("senses" may be the wrong term; it's likely more accurate to say that it simply grows the most where it touches the most and best light... due to an abundance, which accelerates growth... and since it's getting plenty of intensity, it favors horizontal growth instead of vertical growth). The others stretch more and exhibit "reaching" characteristics, whereas the one in the center simply "gets huge." It's also got the thickest stalk (6wks above ground, 2wks into bloom, stalk thick like a thumb, trying to grow roots out of its neck, despite being buried deeper than the others at transplant). Prior to flip, it was the shortest, bushiest, widest, and was the first to pop. It stretched a bit and caught up, then vertically surpassed all but one, and i had to tie it down to prevent it from "stealing" light from the others. It was hogging the PAR overlap cone and depriving the others of direct light. On each side of that one, one is stretching like crazy, while the other seems to have stretched very little, if at all (which means it's now receiving mostly obstructed "filtered" light; i think i'm stuck with this issue, because i don't want to do anything drastic and stress them at this point), but has the prettiest leaves (this is the one that has been the prettiest from the beginning, which i suspected might turn out male, but didn't). However: the cxa3070 "lacks green" (not completely, but relatively speaking), so when blue and red are filtered by upper leaves, there isn't much green left to reflect or penetrate opaque leaves. Ideally, i'd should use 2 more of these same cobs, but it's not necessary. I just have more canopy than PAR cone, partly due to configuration. Everything in that PAR overlap zone is thriving; everything else is "just okay." I don't have dying leaves everywhere; just a few, at the bottom, because the canopy has already claimed the majority of useful light. My lowest massive fan leaves will probably go soon... because they don't get much light anymore, due to the massive fan leaves above them, as well as all the other flower sites occupying all available PAR cone space.

TL;DR:

cxa3070 delivers primarily red and blue, and of mine, the one directly beneath the lamp, receiving the highest amount of intensity, has enormous leaves, while the others are at best half the size, despite the fact they clearly receive less of the exact same spectrum and intensity. Everything in my "hot spot" gets huge and dark; everything else is smaller, brighter, thinner, less opaque. Top leaves tend to be darkest and most opaque (after sufficiently maturing, of course).

If the "not enough red/blue" assertion were correct, the lowest leaves, and those on the edges, would be the biggest; not the ones directly in the center of the highest intensity zone.

Click to expand...

Here is the the pdf on your cxa3070
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB4QFjAA&url=http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED%20Components%20and%20Modules/XLamp/Data%20and%20Binning/ds%20CXA3070.pdf&ei=heMvVO3kKcypyATJnIKwDA&usg=AFQjCNFw0A2ebBEApkcbsbE6D61K0GLfVA&sig2=ouwPLn4OSzExDJ5sWmwA8A&bvm=bv.76802529,d.aWw
you will see it start at putting out enough light at 430nm and 620nm it is falling short of the 420 and 660. I am not here to argue. That is a good light i will admit. I will say if your buds smoke great and you are happy right on. I know mine are some of the best around. I let others smoke there's first. wait an hr then fire mine up. The get so baked its not even funny. I just tell them this is how its supposed to be. Smooth with super expansion, great taste that removes your pain and lasts for 4-6 hrs. Now if your weed can do that then you are doing great as i am. Its about the final quality. How you get there is up to you. Sure we all have allot to learn.

bud nugbong said:

I don't think its a myth, from first hand experience. I grow Outdoors only getting light from fairly high in the sky I need to get my plants as tall as possible quickly. And there is no point for me to keep the lower 2-3 FEET of branches. Because yes it would be a waste of energy to let all my water and food be used on these weak branches that only produce dime sized buds (because of lack of light). Especially only hauling so much water per week I need it to make sure all the energy (food and water) is being put to the tops.

Not only is it your nutrient energy being put to good use, when it comes time to trimming I would rather have more top colas than bottom popcorn trimming to do. Save on trimming time and back pain.

these 2 pics are what I consider Pretty well trimmed of "pointless" branches and lower growth. After not trimming at all last year I learned that was a huge mistake. I guess you could go overboard but I don't think you could really trim so much that you are effecting yield. You would have to be taking off some main branches and that's no what we're trying to do.

*first pic isn't too good at showing my point, but the back side is all trimmed up too, its right up against those trees so the branches don't get light and don't grow (snip snip)..but the 2nd you can see how if it had lower branches they wouldn't be doing much.

Click to expand...

that is real great for a 1 gallon pot. what would a 5 gallon pot do for you? actually i think that is the biggest plant i have seen in that small of pot. You must water it several times a day. oh you cut the bottom out that is why. okay makes since.

bud nugbong said:

lol I always get that, I forgot to mention it is a bottomless pot, But the hole I dug under it is only the size of the gallon jug so it is pretty impressive for the root systems size. Roots organic in the little hole, but all clay and rocks around that.

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Ah ha! I should have guessed. I accidentally did a micro-version of that same thing (roots out the bottom of solo cups, into large soil container...). Wasn't expecting them to do that, but when i saw what happened i thought "hmm... this could be useful..."

I made note in the original post, I know it looks mind boggling.

DCobeen said:

Here is the the pdf on your cxa3070
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB4QFjAA&url=http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED%20Components%20and%20Modules/XLamp/Data%20and%20Binning/ds%20CXA3070.pdf&ei=heMvVO3kKcypyATJnIKwDA&usg=AFQjCNFw0A2ebBEApkcbsbE6D61K0GLfVA&sig2=ouwPLn4OSzExDJ5sWmwA8A&bvm=bv.76802529,d.aWw
you will see it start at putting out enough light at 430nm and 620nm it is falling short of the 420 and 660. I am not here to argue. That is a good light i will admit. I will say if your buds smoke great and you are happy right on. I know mine are some of the best around. I let others smoke there's first. wait an hr then fire mine up. The get so baked its not even funny. I just tell them this is how its supposed to be. Smooth with super expansion, great taste that removes your pain and lasts for 4-6 hrs. Now if your weed can do that then you are doing great as i am. Its about the final quality. How you get there is up to you. Sure we all have allot to learn.

Click to expand...

in the "relative spectral power distribution" section, i'm the Red line (3000k, 80 CRI); i would prefer the Purple line (high CRI), but AFAIK, they're not available.
In the "typical spatial distribution" section, my largest leaves occur in the zone of highest intensity (directly in the center). I fashioned a curved "U-shaped" screen, in attempt to maximize intensity distribution to stuff outside the center zone (not really working out as well as i hoped, but i bet it would w/ better canopy management).

So idk, it could be more about spectrum vs. intensity, whereas excess intensity could perhaps "dilute" the red/blue... but that seems counter-intuitive to me. Seems like "more intensity = more/faster/bigger growth (to a point)" but i'm not certain. I tend to think the spectrum doesn't change despite intensity variation, maybe it does? Or maybe "excess" intensity "dilutes" the useful red/blue... but i'm leaning toward intensity variance being the main factor in leaf size variance.

The only way to tell is to put a decent number, say 20 plants to the test against 20 control plants of the same strain. The pop-corn is just as "strong" if it is allowed to mature for additional weeks. You don't think it is a Myth?

That does mean anything, sorry to say.

What you guys are talking about is the look, only. You sacrifice total THC for a good looking product.

But, I extract it all, with my closed loop system. Tomato sauce vs tennis ball sized tomato.

DCobeen said:

Its all about how they use the energy of the light in photosynthesis ect. When it has to find the light the fan leaves will become bigger and it will not be using those resources in producing new growth. That is what i was saying. When i see a plant with giant ass fan leaves it tells me low light levels in the required 420-460/620-660 range. I was gonna remove some leaves on the bottom of my giant ass 6'6 inch plants but UB convinced me not too. I am loosing leaves cause of a few issues earlier on. I now have it trucking along but the damage was done. I totally understand how to grow plants. I am trying a new way to learn and AIS is what i will switch back too.That is hydro Soil. I will use my learning experience and improve. We are all learning here. It is all about doing what works for you. For everyone who said it doesn't work cause I read a book means nothing to me. Now trying new things and finding how to trick these weeds into doing something diff means you learned them and if it works for you who cares what anyone thinks. If you say no way doesn't work, I say have you tried it yet when you learned how to grow a decent plant? This reminds me of when they said no way can we fly. yep same BS. I agree there are ways that are known to work but who says that is the only way. Vertical scrogs is the way i am heading with AIS. Then i should be able to keep all leaves intact. doing horizontal indoors and keeping them is tuff. I say if you can congrats you are farther along than I am. Please dont take this as me being an ass but as I am just voicing how i feel.

Click to expand...

That is what the LED guys say. "Once upon a time we could not fly." So they suffer the low light, low yield, low quality, because they are learning how to fly. Good luck. I see this as a hobby, so the commercial infighting is what I call Ganja Myth.

Doer said:

The only way to tell is to put a decent number, say 20 plants to the test against 20 control plants of the same strain. The pop-corn is just as "strong" if it is allowed to mature for additional weeks. You don't think it is a Myth?

That does mean anything, sorry to say.

What you guys are talking about is the look, only. You sacrifice total THC for a good looking product.

But, I extract it all, with my closed loop system. Tomato sauce vs tennis ball sized tomato.

Click to expand...

You know how they say "appearances can be deceiving," and "don't judge a book by its cover..." "what's inside is what matters..."

Some people only want big fat colas; others don't care what it looks like, as long as it smells/tastes/smokes great, and feels how they want to feel.

I've argued in favor of removing SOME foliage, certainly not all or most; my "gut" tells me i should keep as much of the plant as possible, but there are valid reasons to eliminate some parts of it, just as there are valid reasons to manipulate it toward Your desired results.

I find it both amusing and frustrating that people get so worked up over what is apparently merely a difference of desired end results... probably because people have a tendency to go around saying any particular thing or way is "better" or "best." Too much absolutism running rampant in the world.