The Green Griffin
Well-Known Member
Yup! Waste not....want not! Btw, I’ve got a message into Grodan to try to get more clarity on this.
LED lighting and deficiencies
- Thread starter DesertHydro
- Start date
The Green Griffin
Well-Known Member
Certainly agree that a slurry test would be more accurate in soil, but for rockwool checking the runoff should be very indicative of where the PH is, especially if you let the solution “perk” in the wool for a short time, then carefully collect enough from the cube to get a reading. Checking runoff from flushing is still valid, albeit directional since runoff will be a more of an average of the flush solution and root environment PH. With each flush, I see the runoff PH decrease and I continue flushing until I get with a couple of tenths of my target. Very surprised I am having such PH control issues since I never had the issue 15 years ago. Cant figure out any other reason than the rockwool since I don’t have salt build up or significant shifts in reservoir ppm/ph. Any thoughts?
Yodaweed
Well-Known Member
Evaporation can mess with PH, so can algae or dirty hoses/drip lines. I'd suggest running some hygrozyme and dripclean through your system, good luck.
After reading the whole thread I'm not sure if you got this issue sorted out or not @DesertHydro.
Could your plants be rootbound? If you are using the same nutrient regime, enviroment and medium as you did with HID lights.
Im thinking the led lights might grow your roots faster then you are used to with HID.
My experience with deficiencies are connected to plants being rootbound.
Have you tried pulling the roots out of the container and checking them? Can do this after harvest aswell. I always check the roots after harvest, this helps give me an idea of what roots can look like on a healthy or unhealthy plant.
Anyway if you did figure out this stuff, dont mind my 2cents
Could your plants be rootbound? If you are using the same nutrient regime, enviroment and medium as you did with HID lights.
Im thinking the led lights might grow your roots faster then you are used to with HID.
My experience with deficiencies are connected to plants being rootbound.
Have you tried pulling the roots out of the container and checking them? Can do this after harvest aswell. I always check the roots after harvest, this helps give me an idea of what roots can look like on a healthy or unhealthy plant.
Anyway if you did figure out this stuff, dont mind my 2cents
The Green Griffin
Well-Known Member
Yup. I set the fence 2” from the blade. If your fence is short you’ll have to adjust that distance to get the blade at 90d to the pipe. The toughest parts are 1) not letting the pipe twist. I would recco using two people, one feeding the pipe in and one on the outfeed AND be sure to put a mark at “top dead center” on both ends, and 2) the pipe tends to compress, so one continuous motion minimizes sawblade binding. In fact the kerf disappears after the first cut! You’ll also need to use GOOP or similar sealant/glue on the end caps since the radius of the tube reduces after the cut. Standard pvc cement won’t work. I also use Goop to fasten in the overflow pipe. I freakin LOVE Goop!
mcnasty_nug
Well-Known Member
Sorry I didn't read the entire thread, but I had issues when i first set up my LEDs. I switched my nutes to running jacks-calnit-magsulf. I run 3g jacks, 2.5gcalnit, and 2g mag sulf. Worked like a charm. Everything is super happy. I bumped my temps up some too to keep the leaf surface temp right.
thetr33man
Well-Known Member
does it matter what order u add these to the water? Is this in RO/distilled?
mcnasty_nug
Well-Known Member
yes! from what I gather, you need to add the sulfates first. I do jacks, then mag, then calnit. I was told that the sulfates are like a glove to nitrates. If you add it last it will swollow up your nitrates and make them unusable. Im sure that is NOT whats happening scientifically but it was a good analogy i thought.
I used both RO and my well water.. Currently I just use my well water since it comes out at 50ppm
Flowki
Well-Known Member
This is exactly it I feel. Colder root temps from time of year/swapping from hps to cob and also sounds about right in a previous post that said lower temps and/or high humidity = less transpiration/cal uptake.
Probe placement and temp control will be dictated by root zone temps now, nothing else. Humidity control I guess will be dictated by canopy level temps, probably around 50-60%? assuming canopy temps will be pushing 80-85.
hybridway2
Amare Shill
Im only in the beginning of this hidden thread. And they say i am crazy???let's keep this thread up and current because this seems to be an issue that most are having. if someone solves the puzzle be sure and share the knowledge
hybridway2
Amare Shill
I have to do this 1/3-1/2 through flower on most plants. Generally works somewhat. But why. WTF already
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hybridway2
Amare Shill
LedDefficiency
hybridway2
Amare Shill
burnt r3ynolds
Active Member
Soil has higher cation exchange rate. Holds and buffers more cal mag iron ect. I use afew types of led and do regular Epsom salt foliars and add chelated iron once in a while. Don't have to under cmh or hid. Certain plants definitely want more magnesium iron calcium in my area under the LEDs then other types of light. It was a learning curve getting used to.Yup.
If this happens so much less (almost never in soil) what is the reason ?