LED light intensity
- Thread starter giantsfan24
- Start date
wietefras
Well-Known Member
I know right. It's just despicable the way they try to fool people. And then when growers use those things they say "It's so powerful it's burning my plants". No it's not, it's just that all the light is bundled in the middle of your grow.
I used 1000W Gavita DE's myself. Amazing lights. Many manufacturers have started copying them since, but if you want to talk about "giant leaps", then perhaps that wasn't giant but at least Gavita really gave us a "leap".
giantsfan24
Well-Known Member
I know right?? I thought I just had a simple question, maybe a couple of pages of noob questions...
giantsfan24
Well-Known Member
That's good to know...practical info..always valuable.
wietefras
Well-Known Member
Well it depends on the distance between the strips. If you have your strips 15cm apart then they can be about 10cm above the plants. If they are 30cm apart they will fina at about 20cm above the plants. Etcetera. It's a relative which pretty much works universally. If you have only one strip or board in the middle of a tent, then the "strip to strip distance" is equal to the width of the tent.
With strips I aim for 2/3 of the strip to strip distance as the height and let slightly higher tops get up to half the strip distance.
That's what those charts I posted actually are created to determine. Although then I usually calculate them as a PPFD matrix from the top, but in this case I ran a simulation for every cm distance and aggregated them in a light distribution over height chart.
Slinging PAR
Well-Known Member
So you claim. Where are the results?
Hard to take anything you post seriously because you don't understand the fundamentals.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
Why bother with LEDs at all if you're going to use cfl or T5 to veg?
Veg is the low hanging fruit due to how long the lamps are on per day.
This thought process behind using fluoros for veg while using LEDs for flowering is asshat backwards. A better way to save power with less up front investment would be keep HPS in your flowering room and upgrading veg to LED first.
Veg is the low hanging fruit due to how long the lamps are on per day.
This thought process behind using fluoros for veg while using LEDs for flowering is asshat backwards. A better way to save power with less up front investment would be keep HPS in your flowering room and upgrading veg to LED first.
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giantsfan24
Well-Known Member
Dude so you go from palm widths to cm?? "I'm just a country doctor Jim!" Lol thanks for splainin it
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Slinging PAR
Well-Known Member
Measuring things using proper instrumentation is a little beyond his capabilities.
wietefras
Well-Known Member
Well I consider a palms width only about 10cm or so. Perhaps 12cm.
Slinging PAR
Well-Known Member
How about just measuring with a ruler and leaving the guesswork out of the equation. That is how intelligent people do it.
wietefras
Well-Known Member
I know you are just here to be annoying I'll give you one more actual answer. ANC brought up "2 palms width". Which actually makes a lot of sense since those are the perfect size to measure the needed distance. If you don't have a ruler at hand. There is no need to be that accurate anyway. It's not an exact science.
Personally I hang some sensors on the frame spaced around the height I like to maintain. No need for rulers or palms, but whatever floats people's boats.
Slinging PAR
Well-Known Member
Let us know when someone has taught you how to use a ruler. END.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I think it's funny how @wietefras insists that using one unit over another will make a number more accurate, but measures things with his palms.
Lets see.... sources of error... instrumentation... check.... human... check.... conversion factor..... NO!
Lets see.... sources of error... instrumentation... check.... human... check.... conversion factor..... NO!
wietefras
Well-Known Member
Let us know when you are able to use any form of physics properly. Understand par vs lumen, understand when a relation is inverse quadratic or linear, when you can calculate an average, when you have finally built a proper light fixture, when you have actually grown a plant. Or in your case just anything even remotely useful would be a step up.
Just stop trolling and finally do something useful with your life.
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churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I just calculate my total power of PAR and divide by the area to find average intensity. A quick and dirty law of sines is all that's needed to make sure my lights overlap "enough" and there won't be appreciable dark spots. (rule of palm). We're talking about light distribution over a garden here.
When buying a light, people should really worry less about intensity and should focus more on total power output. Intensity in terms of lamps is just a trick to make a lamp seem better than it really is.
The way to increase light intensity as a user should be to increase/decrease footprint area. Want higher intensity? Smaller footprint. Want lower intensity? Bigger footprint. I can't be arsed to find instantaneous intensity, and it really doesn't matter in terms of yield.
When buying a light, people should really worry less about intensity and should focus more on total power output. Intensity in terms of lamps is just a trick to make a lamp seem better than it really is.
The way to increase light intensity as a user should be to increase/decrease footprint area. Want higher intensity? Smaller footprint. Want lower intensity? Bigger footprint. I can't be arsed to find instantaneous intensity, and it really doesn't matter in terms of yield.
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Slinging PAR
Well-Known Member
Let us know once you have accomplished your task list. END.
wietefras
Well-Known Member
Don't you need to yell at @churchhaze? He's suggesting you can divide PPF by area. When I say that, you go apeshit.
It's true though, but then you go apeshit when people tell the truth all the time.