killing spider mites

ho is anyone out there that know what they r talking about on how to kill spider mites the all organic way with out killing my baby's velvet 1

what stage of growth? flower or veg?
my first choice is co2 in high ppm i empty a whole 2o pound can.
if in veg i would first fill a 5 gallon or bigger bucket with neem oil mix with water. and turn the plant upside down and submerge her you will get every single mite on her.
repeat in 3 days with pythium same process and the in 3 more days the co2.
they will die but the timing is important before they lay more eggs.
and then clean everything.twice

The completely chem free way to go is spider mite preditors or Ladybugs......
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Here is a link to a decent supplier.....
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http://gardeningzone.com/product_info.php?products_id=121
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Hope this helps......
Keep it Real.....Organic.....
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Neem oil is all natural, and the plants love it. Just mix about 10mL per Liter and spray about once a week. Your leaves will look healthier, and mites will go away.

Mites eggs hatch every 2 weeks and nothing natural is gonna penetrate the eggs, so the best thing to do is spray off any eggs you see, and not give them a surface to lay new ones on.

The ladybugs are a great idea. So is neem oil.

Lady Bugs are awesome, but they don't follow orders well. Praying Mantis is cool, but by the time you have them, too late. The Plant absorbs nutes via the leaves, so any oil would delete that Plant's ability. Safer's soap, clogs the plant's ability to absorb, wtf, light, air, etc. Not I, said the Dumb Ass. To confirm, see dirt doctor .com, library, spider mites. They only attack sick plants.... liquid seaweed sprayed on the plants every 7 to 10 days from 8" tall to one week before harvesting, will keep them away, and fert your plant, also. Please, next time, see the threads on ... whatever, it's all there, not the FAQ. sect.

thanks everyone i will try lady bugs and the neem oil peace n love velvet 1.

Here are some mite predators, they feed on all stages of the mites, I believe.
Phytoseiulus persimilis (pur sim ill us) Excellent in greenhouses with high humidity, moderate temperatures. Low growing plants, greenhouse crops, ornamentals & strawberry fields. Attacks 2 spider mites, Tetranychus urticae and mites in the Tetranychidae family. Predominantly female 4 to 1.

Mesoseiulus longipes (lon gi peas) Used in hot greenhouses on tall plants. Tolerates lower humidity than P. persimilis . Does not do well in outdoor locations. Predominantly female 4 to 1.

Neoseiulus californicus (cal if orn ah cus) Excellent for mite control on roses and vegetables in greenhouses. Also for cyclamen mites in strawberry fields. Tolerates higher temperatures and lower humidities than P. persimilis. Predominantly female 2 to 1.

Neoseiulus fallacis (fa lay see us) Similar to N. californicus but more effective in northern climate on mint hops, strawberries and fruit trees. Does best in moderate to cooler humid conditions but will tolerate warmer temperatures.

Galendromus occidentalis (ox ci dent tal us) Excellent for mite control on fruit trees, grapes and corn in California's hot inland valleys. Tolerates high temperatures and low humidity. Predominantly female 3 to 1.

Galendromus helveolus (hel ev o lus) Use as a general predator in warm humid climates. Good in the Southern California avocado groves attacking Six Spotted Mite, Avocado Brown Mite and the Persea Mite.

Amblyseius andersoni (an der so nee) This is a new predator on the market that shows promise in temperate climates attacking fruit tree Red Spider Mites Panonychus ulmi on apple and pear trees. Also feeds on Bud Mites and Rust Mites.

Galendromus pyri (pie ree) Feeds on many spider mites including European Red Mite. Does well in apple orchards in the northeast. More likely to overwinter as mated females that emerge in the Spring.

like i just said on another thread as mentioned on here aswell you can use lady bugs... get yourself some safer insecticide soap and some neem oil. spray the plants with the insecticide rinse and spray the neem oil mixed with a little dish detergent to prevent your plants from further damage... this can be done anytime during flowering/vegging when the eggs hatch 5 days later do it again... mist 7-8 time a day and lower the temps a little(if you use cfls turn some off) and you should be good.. you can also use a 1/2cup milk and flower per gal and coat your plants

You will fail miserably. I hate to say it but I'd put money on it.

The reason it will fail miserably is nothing natural is 100% and you can dunk and spray and wash every leaf by hand at the perfect intervals but there are still going to be mites all over hidden in various places in your home or coming back from scouting missions or coming out of hibernation. (yes, they hibernate)

I strongly advise you cut straight to the chemicals, what you want is floramite sc and you can get small bottles of it from a few ebay sellers online for as low as $15.
Floramite works, is systemic and long acting and kills eggs and any mite that even tries to touch your plants for 3 weeks from application.


You can only do it while in veg, same with a lot of things. You will not be able to dunk or even spray water after they're in flower and that's the time when they'll go from nothing to millions before you even have a chance to finish the grow. You know it will take 2 months (or so) to flower, and the mites will take advantage of it, trust me, I know what I'm talking about.

All natural is fine, when appropriate. Maybe your next grow will be mite free and can be fully organic. This one can't, you have too much of a problem already.

c02 to kill them sounds nice, but once you see them on your plants they are also in your walls and under the house and in the attic and wherever else they decided to explore. Kind of like ants, they really do a lot of recon.

OregonMeds said:

You will fail miserably. I hate to say it but I'd put money on it.

The reason it will fail miserably is nothing natural is 100% and you can dunk and spray and wash every leaf by hand at the perfect intervals but there are still going to be mites all over hidden in various places in your home or coming back from scouting missions or coming out of hibernation. (yes, they hibernate)

I strongly advise you cut straight to the chemicals, what you want is floramite sc and you can get small bottles of it from a few ebay sellers online for as low as $15.
Floramite works, is systemic and long acting and kills eggs and any mite that even tries to touch your plants for 3 weeks from application.


You can only do it while in veg, same with a lot of things. You will not be able to dunk or even spray water after they're in flower and that's the time when they'll go from nothing to millions before you even have a chance to finish the grow. You know it will take 2 months (or so) to flower, and the mites will take advantage of it, trust me, I know what I'm talking about.

All natural is fine, when appropriate. Maybe your next grow will be mite free and can be fully organic. This one can't, you have too much of a problem already.

c02 to kill them sounds nice, but once you see them on your plants they are also in your walls and under the house and in the attic and wherever else they decided to explore. Kind of like ants, they really do a lot of recon.

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Don't buy into this. Completely false. Yes, Spider mites are a real bitch to get rid of, and will take very aggressive tactics to get rid of them, but you don't need to resort to chemicals to get rid of them. It is true that they only attack sick unhealthy plants, so going all organic is a first good step to having healthy vigorous plants. Next, get some ladybugs. These are your best option for a real fight against a lot of spider mites. I know a bunch of people that have gotten spider mites before, and once they introduced lady bugs, and allowed them to reproduce/eat/die they were mite free for the rest of the grow. The lady bugs will die off when they have no more food supplied. And they will reproduce if their is food(mites), so they will continually attack the mites. Don't buy into the "organic is good for some things, but not others" rhetoric. It just isn't true.

No it's not true that they only attack sick plants. They prefer weakened plants but they'll sure as shit take them all and make them weak.

Buy into whatever you like, I'm just speaking from experience.

OregonMeds said:

No it's not true that they only attack sick plants. They prefer weakened plants but they'll sure as shit take them all and make them weak.

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I think you're right about that one. My bad.

But Ladybugs work.

how come when i had spider mites nobody said shit to my thread and now all of the sudden people want to make multiple page threads!?!?!?!?

Some weeks there are 10 threads on spider mites or more. That's probably why.

I'll go 6 months probably before I'll answer another spider mite thread, it just gets old. Same old same old and nobody ever listens anyway. Ten people say neem oil and I say use something professional. Guess who's advice is ignored.

South Texas said:

The Plant absorbs nutes via the leaves, so any oil would delete that Plant's ability.

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Not really true. Neem Oil (Specifically Einstein's Neem Oil) Is a highly recommended additive to misting your plant in general because how much the leaves enjoy neem. If you've never used it, try it before you knock it.

Never heard of the seaweed thing before, I will have to give it a shot. I've used it for enzymes additive, but never for misting.

OregonMeds said:

Some weeks there are 10 threads on spider mites or more. That's probably why.

I'll go 6 months probably before I'll answer another spider mite thread, it just gets old. Same old same old and nobody ever listens anyway.

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Haha! So true dude. I guess nobody likes using the "Search" function. Thats what gets regulars to switch to other boards. Same topics come up all the time.

If those other boards only created new accounts when you ask for one. I applied to several and never got fully activated or whatever and gave up on them. This one is too easy to get an account on though technically. All those little fuckers who keep coming back after being banned with new accounts proves that.

I don't get why an ip ban isn't automatically imposed, at least for a 30 day window or something.

Thanks for setting the Person straight. My deal is that these people is not going to order lady bugs....... liquid seaweed deals with it. I could use Neen oil, but then buy something that washes that oill & natural wax protective build up on my Babies... but I prefere no oil on my Ladies. I don't trust my Babies to a saleman.

CommieChase said:

Don't buy into this. Completely false. Yes, Spider mites are a real bitch to get rid of, and will take very aggressive tactics to get rid of them, but you don't need to resort to chemicals to get rid of them. It is true that they only attack sick unhealthy plants, so going all organic is a first good step to having healthy vigorous plants. Next, get some ladybugs. These are your best option for a real fight against a lot of spider mites. I know a bunch of people that have gotten spider mites before, and once they introduced lady bugs, and allowed them to reproduce/eat/die they were mite free for the rest of the grow. The lady bugs will die off when they have no more food supplied. And they will reproduce if their is food(mites), so they will continually attack the mites. Don't buy into the "organic is good for some things, but not others" rhetoric. It just isn't true.

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whats the best prevention against them,sparying with nemm every 2 weeks is that enough and i have a sulphur burner i herd its good against mold but does it work t0o repent insects too,can anybod give some advice as whats the best prevetion so i never see this notorious killer,all the posts i seen on the subject got me petrified