Jacks (JR Peters) nutrients
- Thread starter Growerguy420
- Start date
im4satori
Well-Known Member
just though id share
I worked these up a while back for somebody... its a 4 part concentrate to make 5 gallons finished mix
5-11-26 mix
part A
calcium nitrate 3840 grams
part B
5-11-26 hydro mix 4800 grams
part C
magnesium sulfate 1920 grams
mono potassium phosphate 960 grams
part D
magnesium nitrate 1440 grams
veg
10mls part a
10mls part b
10mls part d
bloom
10mls part a
10mls part b
10mls part c
I worked these up a while back for somebody... its a 4 part concentrate to make 5 gallons finished mix
5-11-26 mix
part A
calcium nitrate 3840 grams
part B
5-11-26 hydro mix 4800 grams
part C
magnesium sulfate 1920 grams
mono potassium phosphate 960 grams
part D
magnesium nitrate 1440 grams
veg
10mls part a
10mls part b
10mls part d
bloom
10mls part a
10mls part b
10mls part c
im4satori
Well-Known Member
and for those who use the 4-20-39 mix.. to make 5 gallons finished concetrate
4-20-39 mix
Part A
calcium nitrate 3840
part B
magnesium nitrate 3840
part C
magnesium sulfate 3840
mkp 768
part D
4-20-39 mix 3840
VEG
8mls A
8mls B
8mls D
transition/early bloom
8mls A
4mls B
4mls C
8mls D
later bloom second half
8mls A
8mls C
8mls D
4-20-39 mix
Part A
calcium nitrate 3840
part B
magnesium nitrate 3840
part C
magnesium sulfate 3840
mkp 768
part D
4-20-39 mix 3840
VEG
8mls A
8mls B
8mls D
transition/early bloom
8mls A
4mls B
4mls C
8mls D
later bloom second half
8mls A
8mls C
8mls D
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
Last page I believe, you shared a high/low ranges for bloom and I copied those to my notes, but is there a reference source to those (and other) values, or were those discovered from reverse engineering and experience? Rather than get overly hung up in the weight to volume conversions, I think having a resource like those values, but for the whole grow would better enable me to experiment some. Like for instance, I have a a young (Barney's Triple Cheese) from seed, that is doing pretty good with 2.4/1.6/(FHK/Sw) mix, diluted to 350ppm, but I notice all growth is very yellowish green and I'm guessing there's not enough CalNit. Now I know your views of the differences between Jack's 3.6/2.4/1,1 - 321 - and 2.4/1.6/1, but knowing this is only partially helpful when running differing values through HydroBuddy to observe the different results. Having those bloom reference values that you shared is SOOOO helpful when looking at the result in HB.
Bloom Ranges,
N 65-90
P 40 - 65
K 130 - 150
Ca 65 - 90
Mg 40 - 50
Fe 1.3 to 2
Edit - Can I add more CalNit without altering part A without detriment?
im4satori
Well-Known Member
cal nite is calcium and nitrogen so the more you add the more N and Ca you will have
0.5 gram per gallon calcium nitrate is worth 20ppm N and 25ppm Ca
id don't see why youd want the N over 120ppm max in veg or not more than 100ppm in bloom which is on the high end for bloom imho
im not sure which brand of soil that is but generally if the soil is worth 10 cents you shouldn't need to feed it anything but water for 3 weeks or more (possibly longer if up potting) before needing to add any fertilizer
I guess id say post a pic of the plant that's yellowing
for me!
veg ranges (full strength)
100 to 120 N
30 to 40 P
100 to 130 K
calcium needs are usually dependent on the water source and how much is already contained in the water source
0.5 gram per gallon calcium nitrate is worth 20ppm N and 25ppm Ca
id don't see why youd want the N over 120ppm max in veg or not more than 100ppm in bloom which is on the high end for bloom imho
im not sure which brand of soil that is but generally if the soil is worth 10 cents you shouldn't need to feed it anything but water for 3 weeks or more (possibly longer if up potting) before needing to add any fertilizer
I guess id say post a pic of the plant that's yellowing
for me!
veg ranges (full strength)
100 to 120 N
30 to 40 P
100 to 130 K
calcium needs are usually dependent on the water source and how much is already contained in the water source
Last edited:
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
Germinated on 8/5, planted 8/6 Triple Cheese (Cheese x Blue Cheese)
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
Right now, they're getting 0.8 EC, 5.8pH. Prior to that, EC was a little lower
im4satori
Well-Known Member
she looks healthy to me
im sure she can handle a higher EC 1.2...
test the waste from the bottom of the pot and see what the EC and PH is of the run off
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
In = 425ppm (.85ec) 6.05 pH
Out = 195ppm (.4) 7.01 pH
I should note, that I also innoculate twice weekly with Heisenberg Tea. Combine that with the very young age, and that can explain away some of the reason for the drop in EC and heightened pH. For my young plants, I start them off with drain to waste, so it is highly likely that I am not drenching the media enough when hand watering. I generally do this because multiple small plants won't consume that much and it seems pointless to build an automated system for the young ones.
I'd like to know your opinion about the difference between Jack's Pro 5-12-26 and Chem Gro 4-20-39? I can see the Chem Gro has about double the micro nutes that Jack's has, but aside from that, the Chem Gro looks to my inexperienced eyes that it might be easier to get a more correct balance of NPK while affording the user the freedom to diminish N to almost nothing while also keeping K really high. As you know, I'm still learning and have much to absorb, but generally from what I've been reading, it appears that 420 would be easier to build a regimen around for cannabis?
im4satori
Well-Known Member
not getting enough volume thru the pot in some case can lead to accumulation but in your case the low EC feeds and the tea/flush has prevented that
looking at your waste samples it all screams feed me more
id drop you feed solution down to ph 5.5 and raise your EC to 1.2
after a few days or a week (without tea/flush) check the waste again and itll likely have an EC closer to the feed and PH under 6.5 (which would be the goal)
my opinion on the chem420 vs the 5-11-26;
I think theyre both good and id use either one
after you do the math the mix ends up close
chem grow 4-20-39
bloom mix per gallon
1.6 grams cal nite
1.6 grams Epsom
1.6 grams mix
82N
37P
137K
Ca80
Mg 42
note;
imho I don't know about your tea or what its derived from, but for me... I don't mix organic products with inorganic medium
imo tea is for coco or soil
but there are many many people who disagree and get wonderful results
its just my opinion
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
I'll bump up the EC and down the pH a little, but regrading the Tea, that is non negotiable for me, lol, I am religious about it. Great White mycos, molasses, Ancient Forest (humus), Fulvic/Humic/Kelp blend, a little Fish Shit and some soluble Seaweed 0-0-17. I tried Recharge for better than a year and IMO, it's not as good as Heisenberg. Regular use of Tea in rockwool makes for some beautiful white roots.
im4satori
Well-Known Member
if it works for you thats great, lots of peeps do it with success all day long
I run drain to waste in RW so I get beautiful white roots with no root enhancers or additives or sterilizers of any kind from start to finish
dtw always gets fresh and new water/solution
its not recycled/recirculated over time growing bacteria in the reservoir so I don't have the need for bennies or sterilizers
bacteria or biology building (IMO) is a soil thing... inorganic mediums are not nearly as effective at building biology
but there are several working roads to get the the same place, if it works for you that's awesome man!
Hello and thanks for the great thread here guys. Loving the info!
I have a quick question regarding DWC Jacks. Due to 400ppm tap water, I use RO which is about ~10PPM
That being said, what should I be adding in on top of these ratios of the Jacks Pro, epsom and cal nitrate? My guess would be that I need to add in some extra magnesium via Epsom salts and calcium via cal nitrate but I was worried that would also skew the NPK ratio from extra N etc?
When I grew in coco I had to add in 1/4tsp Epsom / gal of my feed to make it through flower and haven’t had a problem since till I tried dropping it to verify if it was really the issue to test and started seeing the same symptoms.
So, in DWC... im pretty clueless and worried as I’m about to flip the lights to 12/12. Thanks in advance!
I have a quick question regarding DWC Jacks. Due to 400ppm tap water, I use RO which is about ~10PPM
That being said, what should I be adding in on top of these ratios of the Jacks Pro, epsom and cal nitrate? My guess would be that I need to add in some extra magnesium via Epsom salts and calcium via cal nitrate but I was worried that would also skew the NPK ratio from extra N etc?
When I grew in coco I had to add in 1/4tsp Epsom / gal of my feed to make it through flower and haven’t had a problem since till I tried dropping it to verify if it was really the issue to test and started seeing the same symptoms.
So, in DWC... im pretty clueless and worried as I’m about to flip the lights to 12/12. Thanks in advance!
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
I'm kind of in the same boat. Now that I have a basic understanding of when to adjust the ratio, and also knowing how to input everything into HydroBuddy, I'm beginning to see how adjusting the ratios even slightly has almost a ripple effect on the outputted recipe. The past few days, I've been trying to learn what I can about calcium and how it is tricky when mixed with nutes, and chelates etc, but I've been on the fence with either getting Gypsum (calcium sulfate) or something called Dissolvine which is a chelated calcium, so, on a whim, I ordered the Dissolvine with hopes that it will be a good source of Ca at the end of bloom when the CalNit is reduced.
im4satori
Well-Known Member
im not sure they make a gypsum that's water soluble
the calcium chelate, I have some, not the same brand but probably the same and it works great... note im not sure if yours will do the same as mine but mine will lower the ph noticeably so take note of that if yours also does the same
im not positive but I think its derived from calcium citrate ...maybe if I recall idk
im4satori
Well-Known Member
id mix your tap water and your RO water 50/50
which will maybe make life easier for you!! and give you the natural calcium buffer you may get from your source water
im assuming your source water is well water?
the mix as it stands has enough calcium and magnesium in it assuming the EC or ppm of the source water is zero... if your source water contains calcium .. that calcium would be above and beyond the necessary needs
so another words
you shouldn't need to supplement calcium
magnesium...maybe a little but it should be marginal, some plants prefer more Mg thatn others... but ive never seen a plpant Mg def if its getting 50ppm of Mg or more
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
Initially, I thought the gypsum was soluble, but after more careful reading, I see it's a soil conditioner or can be used with injectors into the root zone. I remember firsttimeARE saying he was getting that product. That might be a hard lesson. My intent with the dissolvine is to supplement back some of the calcium lost when the calnit is reduced, so I only anticipate needing a little, if any, but I don't want to get caught off guard so I picked up a few extras to cover other bases should the need arise.
im4satori
Well-Known Member
ya that's probably good stuff
link me to where you got it, I may get some
ive got a gallon of 5% ive had for years that's almost empty and I like having it around
itll serve your purpose very well
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
im4satori
Well-Known Member
https://customhydronutrients.com/-c-1_47_452.html
ok, not the same as what I had before...
the only thing id need to find out is if its soluble in a liquid concentrate.
many of the chelated nutrients are not
edit
hmmmmm.
it adds sodium and a good bit!!!!
ok, not the same as what I had before...
the only thing id need to find out is if its soluble in a liquid concentrate.
many of the chelated nutrients are not
edit
hmmmmm.
it adds sodium and a good bit!!!!