Highhopes99
Active Member
And also.. Good luck on keeping up with the flood of questions 
It's A Fuct World
- Thread starter Al B. Fuct
- Start date
The Waiter
Active Member
Hey Al no questions i can think of at the moment. I just wanted to tell you that you're the fuckin man
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
If you can control the scent of your plants, you'll be able to control the scent of the sulfur, which goes away very quickly once the sulfur in the evaporator re-solidifies. The sulfur vapour will also leave an invisible residue on ALL grow room surfaces, which will kill mould spores anywhere they lay & reduce future re-infection events. You going in & out of the room will always bring in some new ones, but they stand much less a chance of blooming with the inhospitible sulfur vapour residue on everything.
Change to a fully inorganic nutrient. Problem solved.
Sounds good.
I've seen a few of them. My 'system' as it were can be modified in a number of ways to suit the grower, particularly on scaling.
If it works well at 800, do eeeet.
I run all tanks in the flowering room at 1000-1100 @ 5.8. I can't be fucked mixing differently for each tank. My new clones don't react badly at all to 1000 from the get-go.
I've recently been soaking RW cubes for 24h in plain frech tapwater, no pH correction, no H2O2. Been watering clones with the same.
Too right. If you can't get clones to happen reliably, it all falls down.
If a clone is really setting root well, it'll have about 7-10 'nubs' out of the cube on the same day, as first roots. It can be planted right then. In practise, I tend to wait until I have a full batch of 24 with roots out of the cube before I plant. However, don't let a lot of roots develop outside of the cube before planting. They're not supported with media and are easy to damage or dry out. Planting earlier is better than later.
Early root development is critical to a thriving plant, full stop. If a plant is thriving, it'll easily get to 36"-40" by wk4. Winnow out poor performers before they go to the flowering room.
If there's good root development on a thriving plant, vegging is not only unnecessary but problematic as it will induce excessive vertical height & branching. The ideal is a batch of uniformly short plants that have their main bud area in the highest light intensity available.
I don't use anything but nutes, H2O2 and occasional pH Down.
Be sure to reduce your nutrient ppm or eliminate std nutes altogether for the period that you're using any phosphorus-based bloom additives- which, BTW are the only ones that can possibly work. If I see another beeswax & bullshit bloom booster, I'm going to punch some marketing genius in the brain. It's be the same one who thought that 'power balance' bracelets were a good idea...
imo, it's not about running a booster all the time but applying it for a few days (then changing out the rez) at the right time.
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Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
It ain't so. Happy?
Really no good.
I'd like to fly to the moon with a propeller beanie.
Any slimy feeling on the bottom of the nute tanks? Applying regularly every 3-4 days? Any chance the roots could have been dried out or drowned? I had a timer fail not long back- it was adding a 6 HOUR 'ON' cycle where there should have been none. Pissed me off. It was running in the middle of the night and I wasn't aware it was happening until I had problems with a couple consecutive batches which had run through the tray with the defective timer.
Yep, just plain water.
Yes, I still use rooting powder, but the other stuff just wasn't necessary. Works better without.
Yeah, cheers for that. xD Every time I pop in, I DO get a deluge. Hope I can keep up. I really only have a couple of days to put into answering questinos, though- then I'm again going to be off like a prom dress.And also.. Good luck on keeping up with the flood of questions
heh, thanks
Japanfreak
New Member
I laughed out loud at the first post. Nice
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
I would recommend Canna, strangely enough.
No, they're not paying me to say that.. but hey, Canna... if you're listening... there's enough room in my garden shed for a few pallets of gold bars. There's several high quality inorganic nutrient mfrs, though. Someone will chime in and mention their favourite. Just avoid organics.
Really? I didn't even use any of my 'A' material about rusty nails driven through stems to increase potency...
zem
Well-Known Member
holy shit Al i'm glad you're here man. i have been pulling my hair in here from the silly shit advice being given out. i use my tapwater with 35%H2O2 and chemical ferts in powder form. i never seen any 50% grade. i get pissed from the organic bullshit every day and there are few who would jump into threads telling everybody to use bleach instead of h2o2 giving it as a FACT that it's actually better, good luck trying to make things straight in here lmao
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
How are the LED evangelists doing?
35% will do fine. Low strength H2O2 has a stabiliser added (normally sodium silicate) which is not plant friendly. AFAIK, 35% doesn't require stabilliser, but much lower than that does or the shelf life is rather short (about a year).
I know, it's hard to rest when SOMEBODY ON THE INTERNET IS WRONG.
zem
Well-Known Member
yes! the LED evangelists! those are my favorites! i actually analysed their psychology. imagine you have bought a light for like 800-1000$ it will be hard for you to admit that it doesn't work now wouldn't it? worse though is to try convince people to do the same stupid mistake you did lmao up until they swallow their loss and switch to hps they would have convinced a dozen to buy LED all of whom will be telling others to do the same, compounding the inefficiency and the lost efforts. sometimes i ask myself why i even bother, all i care for actually is to have a world with more free weed! haha
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
....................
Japanfreak
New Member
I would like to add one to the fucked up world of hydroponics on-line
deficiencies - You shouldn't have them
All these people running around trying to pick the right def from that useless thing skype's guide, skype? Snype? Sniggles? What ever. get the right ppm/ec and shut up about deficiencies.
deficiencies - You shouldn't have them
All these people running around trying to pick the right def from that useless thing skype's guide, skype? Snype? Sniggles? What ever. get the right ppm/ec and shut up about deficiencies.
gudkarma
New Member
al b.
i'm using & prefer a one part nutrient system (http://www.dyna-gro.com/) and have some questions here.
already mentioning i like to suppliment with low strength boosters the the end of a rez cycle i still try to keep the sauce VERY simple.
understanding where you suggest ppms & ph should be, how would you approach using a one part nute system where we have two bottles ...one for grow ...one for bloom.
* quick aside, do you know anything about H & Gs component 1? *
so we go > rooted cuts straight from tap water (my city water is 200ppm, ph 8.0) > to tray number one @ 1200-1300 ppm ish (given my starting point) ?
if using a one part nute system, where the bloom mix is low in N, also adding we want to encourage some but not too much stretch, do you reccomend the addition of micro or some of the one part grow to the rez sauce in order to boost N (for plants in the first tray)?
i'm gonna posit a few more questions & bow out...
nevertheless, and back on track, i keep backup for everything & have to dip into the stash for the oversized heater ...my room, i've discovered, night temps are hitting 15-16 celcius... where i normally keep night temps (this time of year) about 20c.
room temps are to be 24 to 27 (ish) celcius constant. in the winter, my lights on temps are perfect whereas lower than expected night temps could be hurting my stretch.
possible?
you talk about temps alot in some of your stickie threads.
so no drop in temps for lights out, correct?
i'm not worried about environmental controls. built my lab room inside a room & sealed style with access to air inside the room & outside the building. ultra handy over here ...just need direction with regard to room temps.
my local climate has four seasons so i have to & can adjust my controls similarly.
a few pics...
i'm using & prefer a one part nutrient system (http://www.dyna-gro.com/) and have some questions here.
already mentioning i like to suppliment with low strength boosters the the end of a rez cycle i still try to keep the sauce VERY simple.
understanding where you suggest ppms & ph should be, how would you approach using a one part nute system where we have two bottles ...one for grow ...one for bloom.
* quick aside, do you know anything about H & Gs component 1? *
so we go > rooted cuts straight from tap water (my city water is 200ppm, ph 8.0) > to tray number one @ 1200-1300 ppm ish (given my starting point) ?
if using a one part nute system, where the bloom mix is low in N, also adding we want to encourage some but not too much stretch, do you reccomend the addition of micro or some of the one part grow to the rez sauce in order to boost N (for plants in the first tray)?
i'm gonna posit a few more questions & bow out...
nevertheless, and back on track, i keep backup for everything & have to dip into the stash for the oversized heater ...my room, i've discovered, night temps are hitting 15-16 celcius... where i normally keep night temps (this time of year) about 20c.
room temps are to be 24 to 27 (ish) celcius constant. in the winter, my lights on temps are perfect whereas lower than expected night temps could be hurting my stretch.
possible?
you talk about temps alot in some of your stickie threads.
so no drop in temps for lights out, correct?
i'm not worried about environmental controls. built my lab room inside a room & sealed style with access to air inside the room & outside the building. ultra handy over here ...just need direction with regard to room temps.
my local climate has four seasons so i have to & can adjust my controls similarly.
a few pics...
Attachments
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Seriously, LED evangelists are like PowerBalance band advocates. "WORKS!" they all yell, until put to the test. When proven wrong, the tune doesn't change. Fuck 'em.
I really dislike 'Lucas Formula' because it allows (nay, encourages) extreme NPK ratio imbalances. That's part of what's going on here, causing the severe nute burn appearance. The other part is overwatering. Is there only clay pellets in that pot or is there some other absorbent media in there? Never water in lights-off. Just no need for it.
Cal-Mag is almost always unnecessary unless you're using rainwater. There's usually enough Ca & Mg in tapwater to suit plants in hydroponics.
What's a C.A.P system?
Go back to GH instructions for the use of their product.
Too right. Any decent quality hydroponic nutrient has everything plants need. What appears to be nute deficiencies are almost always some other fuckup.
Yup.
The Waiter
Active Member
Hey al how many clones do you think i can do sog style under a 150w hps in hempy buckets? Without sacrificing yield of course. How about under a 250w?
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
im droping the night feeding, was just hard for me to understand they could go that long without. and there in RW cubes
when these signs started i was on a basic GH feeding program and the burn apperence started my ppm was 1000
and it was sugested to try lucas, problem seemed to go away but as you see its still there im at 800ppms now.
il put up some new pics
when these signs started i was on a basic GH feeding program and the burn apperence started my ppm was 1000
and it was sugested to try lucas, problem seemed to go away but as you see its still there im at 800ppms now.
il put up some new pics
Luger187
Well-Known Member
i would not trust my city to provide me with the right amount of nutrients for my plants. if u use an RO system, u KNOW u have a baseline of zero(or very close), and can add however much nutes u NEED accordingly. if i were to add nutes to my regular tap water, wouldnt it have a ton of Ca and Mg in it?
basically what im saying is regular tap water isnt that reliable. u dont know exactly how much is in it. so adding more could cause problems
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
View attachment 1375701View attachment 1375700View attachment 1375699
so they do look better but theres still this issue with the tips curling up
and the edges yellowing/browning?
so they do look better but theres still this issue with the tips curling up
and the edges yellowing/browning?