Is this nute burn or something else?

O

O Wise One

Member
Cold$moke said:
Most problems can be fixxed

Most noobs give their plants too much

It almost always works better just barely keeping them from being deficient:)

Study deficiency and TOXICITY charts before you sleep ;)
Click to expand...
Where are these charts located at?

Thanks for everyones help.
 
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Tim1987

Well-Known Member
Myself, im sure someone can chime in too.

Imho,
Nitrogen deficiency is always, the first deficiency to show in a healthy garden.
Nitrogen is most abundant of all nutrients. Whether it be the soil outside, or the NPK on your bottle.
I wait for an even, slow, fade of green, before i hit em with more NPK.
If a problem shows up overnight, generally its lockout. This is especially true in soil.
Check out a chart on nutrient availability in relation to ph. You'll find it a fantastic guide, if you're locking up.
 
Cold$moke

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Ha ha yea its hard to do but it means your ass was on point for the whole thing ;)

Mine are not currently on point as much as they could be either dont feel bad happens to the best of us (not me :))
 
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Tim1987

Well-Known Member
Here's the chart, I mentioned.
With this, and the deficiency's / lockout chart @Cold$moke gave you, lockout and deficiency should be a thing of the past.
I find this chart helpful because, if I know my ph, I can make a REALLY educated guess, as to what it is.
images.jpg
 
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Tim1987

Well-Known Member
You'll notice this chart is exactly why, they say to swing between 5.5ph and 6.5ph in hydro. So you can give it balanced nutrition.
Soil you will find, a steady, 6-6.5ph is just about perfect.
Happy growing
 
O

O Wise One

Member
Tim1987 said:
You'll notice this chart is exactly why, they say to swing between 5.5ph and 6.5ph in hydro. So you can give it balanced nutrition.
Soil you will find, a steady, 6-6.5ph is just about perfect.
Happy growing
Click to expand...

I keep my PH around 5.8 ...growing in coco..
 
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Tim1987

Well-Known Member
O Wise One said:
I keep my PH around 5.8 ...growing in coco..
Click to expand...
I hear you on that one. Thats how i like my coir too.
But people have a lot of cal, mag, potassium, and sometimes phosphorus issues in coir.
Look at their availability on the chart. If you see, below about 6.5, it doesnt matter how much there is, the plant cant absorb much at all.
Its ideal, i find, to let your ph creep up towards the 6.5 mark between feeds. Then bring it back down to 5.8 each feed. That ensures the plants get everything they need. A little upwards ph swing, is actually a very healthy thing.
Bare in mind too. Deficiency and toxicity, look the same, until they're well advanced.
Lockouts and deficiency that charts show, are very advanced. The plants would have been suffering for days. If not weeks. Especially if its deficient.
I find the ph chart, soooooo handy, to identity toxicity or deficiency, before it progresses.
 
O

O Wise One

Member
Tim1987 said:
I hear you on that one. Thats how i like my coir too.
But people have a lot of cal, mag, potassium, and sometimes phosphorus issues in coir.
Look at their availability on the chart. If you see, below about 6.5, it doesnt matter how much there is, the plant cant absorb much at all.
Its ideal, i find, to let your ph creep up towards the 6.5 mark between feeds. Then bring it back down to 5.8 each feed. That ensures the plants get everything they need. A little upwards ph swing, is actually a very healthy thing.
Bare in mind too. Deficiency and toxicity, look the same, until they're well advanced.
Lockouts and deficiency that charts show, are very advanced. The plants would have been suffering for days. If not weeks. Especially if its deficient.
I find the ph chart, soooooo handy, to identity toxicity or deficiency, before it progresses.
Click to expand...

Which is why i feed every 2 or 3 days. Makes the PH swing up when not putting in new PHd water.

I guess im not following your last part.....How is using the PH chart identifying toxicity or deficiency better than the chart coldsmoke posted? Especially if im following the Water at 5.8.....wait 2-3 days, and water again.

All that would tell me in this situation is that I prolly have too much nitrogen considering I put fresh 5.8 in there and then I started seeing problems a few days later. That would be the element that would get dosed hard first right off the bat.......or am i missing something.
 
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Tim1987

Well-Known Member
O Wise One said:
Which is why i feed every 2 or 3 days. Makes the PH swing up when not putting in new PHd water.

I guess im not following your last part.....How is using the PH chart identifying toxicity or deficiency better than the chart coldsmoke posted? Especially if im following the Water at 5.8.....wait 2-3 days, and water again.

All that would tell me in this situation is that I prolly have too much nitrogen considering I put fresh 5.8 in there and then I started seeing problems a few days later. That would be the element that would get dosed hard first right off the bat.......or am i missing something.
Click to expand...
Its because lockout and deficiency, look the same until they're advanced.
For example, you'll know you have a calmag problem, but is it lockout or deficiency???
Knowing your ph, will give you a really good idea. Because if your ph was above 6, you can pretty safely assume you're just deficient. Especially if your ph was above 6.
If it was 5.5, its pretty hard to tell what it is until you're at about the 6 mark. Notice how much less calmag is available?
 
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Tim1987

Well-Known Member
Thats why i say, and have always been told to wait for a slow, even fade of chlorophyll, to dose or up my NPK.
Its actually healthy, and keeps everything in zen. Nitrogen fade is cured in about 2hrs in coir. No biggie at all.
 
O

O Wise One

Member
Tim1987 said:
Thats why i say, and have always been told to wait for a slow, even fade of chlorophyll, to dose or up my NPK.
Its actually healthy, and keeps everything in zen. Nitrogen fade is cured in about 2hrs in coir. No biggie at all.
Click to expand...
So what you are saying is once you see a fade...then feed. and still no change time to up??

Thanks for this little tidbit of knowledge. will help me as i continue my grow.

Are you checking your PH after you water.....I dont.......I just water at 5.8 and water again a few days later....SO when you say "if your ph was above 6"....are you just guessing or are you actually checking? Thats the confusing part for me during this discussion. and are you only checking when you see a problem?

Also do you feed calmag through the whole grow or just enough to concentrate in coir?? I have been adding 1ml of calmag per 1 gallon every time i make my nute batch.

You said: Because if your ph was above 6, you can pretty safely assume you're just deficient.

WOuldnt i be toxic above 6? i presume the larger the girth the more concentrated it as at that PH.
 
T

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
O Wise One said:
So what you are saying is once you see a fade...then feed. and still no change time to up??

Thanks for this little tidbit of knowledge. will help me as i continue my grow.

Are you checking your PH after you water.....I dont.......I just water at 5.8 and water again a few days later....SO when you say "if your ph was above 6"....are you just guessing or are you actually checking? Thats the confusing part for me during this discussion. and are you only checking when you see a problem?

Also do you feed calmag through the whole grow or just enough to concentrate in coir?? I have been adding 1ml of calmag per 1 gallon every time i make my nute batch.

You said: Because if your ph was above 6, you can pretty safely assume you're just deficient.

WOuldnt i be toxic above 6? i presume the larger the girth the more concentrated it as at that PH.
Click to expand...
Yep, yep and yep.
You'll know you probably need to up your npk, if you slowly fade over time.
The amount of calmag really is dependent on what type of coir you're using. Ive posted an article a few times the last few days. Ill post it here too.
I use it rarely, some need it more often. Just depends on your coir, and water source.
You can get testers for npk and micro levels. But, you pretty much have to make a guess. Its always a damn good guess though. Because deficiency happens over time. Lockout happens almost overnight, even faster sometimes.
 
Cold$moke

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
O Wise One said:
Which is why i feed every 2 or 3 days. Makes the PH swing up when not putting in new PHd water.

I guess im not following your last part.....How is using the PH chart identifying toxicity or deficiency better than the chart coldsmoke posted? Especially if im following the Water at 5.8.....wait 2-3 days, and water again.

All that would tell me in this situation is that I prolly have too much nitrogen considering I put fresh 5.8 in there and then I started seeing problems a few days later. That would be the element that would get dosed hard first right off the bat.......or am i missing something.
Click to expand...
The ph chart can help narrow down you deficiency by saying ok im always at 5.8. So your deficiencies would be on the higher end of the scale, yea?
 
Cold$moke

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
You can constantly feed coco lots do

When i used coco i almoat treated it like dirt i would fertilize once a week then just use water if its dry .

But i also know guys that feed every 2 min with great results :)
 
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