Is Constant Current really the best choice for our DIY builds?

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
I understand that the manufacturer might not recommend it, but we are not building lights like the commercial industry. Most every light I have looked into are running near max with good chips that are ran just barely above old lighting standards ( less than 100 lumen per watt). If they have a failed chip, the others will be overdriven. I can't think of any builds in the DIY group that would over drive the rest if one or two chips failed (using a constant Voltage driver). Plus, less than experienced DIYers, including me, playing with thin wires and voltage well over 120 volts in most builds. The lack of versatility of the driver for someone that is planning to expand later. With the constant voltage I can add COBs anytime to a driver to increase efficiency or run less for deeper penetration and you always know that driver is that wattage. I guess I would just rather play with 36 volts instead. I don't recommend running the positive to the positive in a string though. That just seems like is could lead to power hogging. I try to make all positive and negative lead equal length, solder them together, then to the driver leads. Nothing has failed on me in over a year with multiple configurations.
 

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
I understand that the manufacturer might not recommend it, but we are not building lights like the commercial industry. Most every light I have looked into are running near max with good chips that are ran just barely above old lighting standards ( less than 100 lumen per watt). If they have a failed chip, the others will be overdriven. I can't think of any builds in the DIY group that would over drive the rest if one or two chips failed (using a constant Voltage driver). Plus, less than experienced DIYers, including me, playing with thin wires and voltage well over 120 volts in most builds. The lack of versatility of the driver for someone that is planning to expand later. With the constant voltage I can add COBs anytime to a driver to increase efficiency or run less for deeper penetration and you always know that driver is that wattage. I guess I would just rather play with 36 volts instead. I don't recommend running the positive to the positive in a string though. That just seems like is could lead to power hogging. I try to make all positive and negative lead equal length, solder them together, then to the driver leads. Nothing has failed on me in over a year with multiple configurations.
Well it really boils down to the slight chance of thermal runaway. In a cob setup its unlikely but in multiple lower voltage strings it can become a problem.
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
Well it really boils down to the slight chance of thermal runaway. In a cob setup its unlikely but in multiple lower voltage strings it can become a problem.
but it can happen in this scenario and a commercial fixture will have to address it with...Extra circuitry unless there are some drivers with existing circuitry that I am unaware of.......so from a circuit building perspective, is it the simplest circuit we can build without compromise?
 
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