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Indoor SOG green, what is the smallest gallon pot to use 4x4

Discussion in 'Indoor Growing' started by CaliMedicated, Oct 18, 2010.


    CaliMedicated Well-Known Member

    For doing SOG can i use 1 gall the whole time from veg to flower? or 2.5 gall? i dont think i need much bigger. whats your thoughts or experience.

    Thanks for the help in advance
    Logan Rhodes

    Logan Rhodes Active Member

    Personally a 2.5 Gal would be the smallest I would go. If your doing dirt, I would recommend a 5 Gal. But if your doing hydro, depending on your setup, a 2.5 Gal might do the trick. But the more room the roots have to grow & stretch, the better...

    aeviaanah Well-Known Member

    5 gallon for sea of green? that may be overkill. IMO, 2.5 would be great.

    DSB65 Well-Known Member

    For sog im thinking 1 or 2 gallon grow bags and pack them in...

    aeviaanah Well-Known Member

    Sounds about right.
    Ego Fum Papa

    Ego Fum Papa Active Member

    I did it in hydro using 6 inch netpots filled with rockwool and hydroton, turned out great. For a true SOG there is very little, if any, veg time so generally you can get away with smaller pots/smaller root area/more plants. I agree with DSB65.

    CaliMedicated Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the responses. so based on the short veg time would you guys leave them in the same size pot ? even through flowering? Lets say i went with the 2.5 gal pot starting on the veg cycle? trying to limit stress.
    Brooklynz Kush

    Brooklynz Kush Active Member

    I would start them in rapid rooters then from there into the 2.5 gallon pots till they finish.

    CaliMedicated Well-Known Member

    can you drop the seed right into rapid rooters or do you need to wait until they sprout?

    PetFlora Well-Known Member

    Most growers are not aware that a plants root system is as long as the plant is tall. Soil SOGers can compensate with large footprint containers that don't need to be too deep: a concrete mixing tub from Lowes/HD should do the trick. However, if you try to use something low like this in a DWC system, you will run into a ton of root born problems around the 3-4 week of flower, that are blamed on nutrient deficiencies, when that is seldom the cause. Why?

    DWC roots function optimally when they occupy the same relative space as they would if the roots were growing down, unrestricted in soil searching for moisture and nutrients. The farther away from this a home growers system is, the more problems are likely to result. I have yet to see a DWC system that attempts to duplicate a plant roots natural tendencies. Growers who get good results with DWC would get much better results with significantly less potential for sickly plants, and nutrient deficiencies if they switched to High Pressure Aeroponics (HPA.)

    A strain that grows 3 ft above ground will grow a 3 foot deep tap root during the grow phase. A few weeks into flower a large root ball develops near the plant in preparation to drink as much P & K as is available in order to develop nice fat buds. Under ideal conditions the root ball resembles pompoms. On a 3 ft tree this pompom could be the size of a basketball. Since the roots don't know when to say when, they will feast until they poison themselves. SO BE CAREFUL with the P & K. There is such as thing as too much, although some strains can eat more than others without consequences.

    Let's compare the two systems

    A typical DWC root zone chamber is shallow. It contains a low pressure pump, spray bars, bubblers, and nutrients. All is fine until 3-4 weeks into flower when those pompoms start clogging everything up into a tangled mess- literally. Why? The inevitable massive root structure has no where to go. So is DWC SOG off the table? Hell no! It's alive, and better than ever.

    SOG & HPA are a match made in heaven. Inside the root zone of a HPA grow pod, all that's needed are the mist heads, leaving plenty of room for the crazy root growth to quickly come. A HP pump (costs <$150) and rez (with bubblers) sits outside the root zone. It pulls nutrients out of the rez and pushes them through small 10-50 micron mist heads under 50-100 psi, which delivers them to the roots as an aerosol, which is ideal for the roots to feed upon. What the roots don't consume falls to the bottom and are eliminated via D2W.

    To accommodate a genetic 3 ft plant, that has multiple 1 ft colas above the screen you will need about 6 vertical feet and then your light. Lowryder type strains reduce the vertical height some 12-18".

    Aside from maintaining pH (5.4-6.0), nute strength (600-800 ppms in full bloom) and making sure the RH inside the chamber is ~70 degrees, and usin chelated nutrients, silica, and fulvic acid you can pretty much it back and watch the real fun begin
    Logan Rhodes

    Logan Rhodes Active Member

    Petflora, I have a nice DWC, and a separate ebb&flow, and neither have had problems in the 3-4 week of flowering. Is this something you have proven yourself through expiremental grows with all types of systems and strains. Or was it copy and pasted? Just curious.

    CaliMedicated Well-Known Member

    I had questioned the same thing.. with only having 4 posts??
    Logan Rhodes

    Logan Rhodes Active Member

    What's up with that CaliMed.? Sounds like it's from a textbook or fucking greenhouse magazine. Not trying to single anyone out, but just wondering if that shits in your own words...
    Logan Rhodes

    Logan Rhodes Active Member

    I've never heard of a DWC system being responsable for it's own downfall, solely because it goes into week four of flowering, doesn't make any sense. Sorry...

    CaliMedicated Well-Known Member

    Im not quite sure what your referring to.. I didn't write that post bro. Please reread all the post before accusing me of something I didn't wright.

    Killface Well-Known Member

    wow this went from Soil to DWC in a heartbeat. Ok check it out. I SOG every rotation. Heres my Set up. I root in Peat pucks, rapid rooters, rock wool Whatever. After they root up, I Let them Stay in the plug untill you start seeing new growth, usually about 2 or 3 days after rooting. I immediately Transfer into a one gallon grow bag, water them with HIGH Phosphorus like Koolbloom for GH or Open sesame From FOXFARM something like that, then after i water I go straight into 36 hours of darkness to jump start flowering. I have success EVERY TIME. I pull 1 to 1.5 on each and every plant....under a 600. I run 10 Plants in a 3x4 area, I dont need alot of space to grow alot of bud. The 3x4 is perfect for a cool sunXL Hood because of its light foot print. I used to use a 1000 but its really too much for must sogs. A 1000 is meant for big plants becuase of its light penetration power, but since the plants are small...you dont need it! Got any more questions PM me.

    CaliMedicated Well-Known Member

    Thanks for your tips and feedback.. I will DM. Thanks

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