If your about to Cure- then you gotta read this-

Discussion in 'General Marijuana Growing' started by oll1e, Sep 22, 2010.

  1.  
    oll1e

    oll1e Active Member

    Even if ya not curing soon read the below and you might just change the way you do things- Its a copy and paste job- I have just tried this method and currently sitting in the 63% humidity stage in my Mason Jars. 63% I hear you say? THen read on....

    Its a interesting read even if you are the king Curer .... Ever heard about the perfect Cure Zone For ya buds???? :roll:


    Curing your post harvest blues..
    Ah yes. Harvest time has come. The buds are swollen, the trichomes are the exact color you have been waiting for. The smell is rich, and soon becomes almost overpowering as you tear into that first bud with shiny new scissors. Not too many of us really like big trim jobs, but we endure. We endure because we know that in a few short weeks we will be enjoying the fruits of our beloved labor.

    Of course, we all know that this is not the finish line. On the contrary, this is only the beginning of the race...



    The Cure
    Oh yes, the cure. Many times has this been judged the most important part of the growing experience, and with good standing reason. This is the point where all our patience and skill will shine through, or take a dive into the miserable oblivian of smoking mere mediocre herb. Botch things here and it will all be for not. Though a perfect cure can help cover up some small discrepancies during your grow, having the best growing conditions on earth will not earn you a free pass through this hallowed gate my friend.

    So, how's your cure? Perfect? Consistantly perfect? Are you a Cure Master? Hmm.. Prove it. What?

    Did you know that your cure can be broken down into a mathematical equation? What if I told you that you can attain the perfect cure, the best cure possible, every single harvest? And what if it was as easy as painting by numbers? And what if this could totally affect the way you cure, wether you are a newbie, or an old seasoned head?

    The following is not something I discovered myself. I was first introduced to it from a guy named Simon. All though he initially taylored it to cannabis he, of course, didn't really discover it either. We most likey owe that to producers of tobacco. Their techniques are somewhat different but since they are curing a plant intended for smoking..... Well, it's just simply a matter of numbers.. I have, in turn, borrowed this concept and brought it here. I have eliminated what I deemed unneccessary and added some of my own insights/experiences. I have also condensed the original information the best I could (as it was quite haphazardly introduced, and many facts/ideas were addressed in later installments) in my own words (which has, in turn, increased greatly in size), but all credit must be afforded Simon for bringing these techniques, in their raw form, to public scrutiny. This, by no means, suggests that the work (either the original, or here) is complete. There are assuredly many more facts, discoveries and techniques left to be uncovered. That said, let's begin..

    Cannabis is an annual weed. It's purpose in life is singular and pure: Continued propagation. The female cannabis plant, through it's propagating qualities is naturally the ultimate focuse of this forum, along with many others just like it. In order for the female cannabis plant to fulfill her destiny, and to fill our jars, like all life on earth she needs water. Her flowering buds are full of it. It is the point of drying them to release this water. The cure, on the other hand, is a bit more complicated. In contrast, the cure is an attempt to delay this release of water over time. It is this juggling act that is in dire need of deciphering and it is this thread that will show exactly how it is done. It is said that the bud of a cannabis plant continues to live for a certain amount of time after it is cut from it's stem ( per Ed Rosenthal), in some cases a couple of days. I personally think this is crazy. This is akin to cutting off a chickens head. A lot of good it did the chicken.. Unless your bud has the ability to sprout instant roots and walk itself to an empty pot it is, for all intensive purposes, d, e, a, d, dead. This, by no means, insinuates that there are not living cells and processes to be found, but without the ability to replenish water, the drying has begun. Even though the bud has begun it's dry cycle, there is still plenty of water in it to allow various cells to continue to function. Since the main stem has been cut they have no choice but to pull water and nutrients (in the form of clorophyl and other complex carbohydrates) from stores in the bud and process them into simple carbohydrates (simple sugars) in order to continue to function normally. The more complex carbohydrates that are broken down and the more simple carbohydrates that are used and the more moisture that is lost, the better your buds will be. Within this process is the secret to the perfect cure..


    First we will break it down into phases. This seems easiest as you can refer back to any point of the cure by phase. Try to think of it like landing an airplane...


    Phase one: The dry. This is kind of like preparing to land. The first thing you want to do is come to altitude and lower your landing gear. Basically, once you cut your bud, you need to decide what to do with it. Most of us go ahead and trim it now. Once it is trimmed to our liking, the bud is hung to dry.

    Phase two: The pre-cure. This is somewhat like landing your airplane. The trick is to set it down on the runway at just the right angle as you begin to reduce your speed. This is where the mathematics come into play. What you are looking for here is the "feel". When your hanging bud begins to "feel" like it is drying out, but the stems are still flexible, it is time to jar. Don't worry, we will revisit this phase in more detail in a bit..

    Phase three: The cure. Now your airplane is on the runway. This is where you are focusing on your instruments and applying the brakes. This is the actual part of the cure. It is a benefit to keep your bud in this stage for as long as possible. Actually, this may be a little misleading as some folks may like some cures better than others. In other words, this is the point where smells and flavors can change drastically. Depending on what it is you are after will dictate exactly how long you keep this phase in check. But only you can decide what you like.

    Phase four: Storage. Well, the flight is over, time to put the airplane away. We have finally reached a point where the curing process has greatly slowed down and it is safe to store your bud.

    Hygrometer is needed.


    Phase one. 70%+ RH: This starts out just like any other time you have done it. Once you have harvested your bud and trimmed it to your liking, hang it in a cool dark place. This is where we will part from tradition. Allow it to hang until the buds begin to feel like they are drying (note the temps and rh as this will rarely be the same during subsequent harvests). They will start to lose their "softness" in favor of a slightly crispy texture. We don't want to allow it to dry until the stems snap. THIS IS WRONG! We want the stems to be flexible. Not totally soft, but not snapping, either. If allowed to dry until the stems snap we risk it drying too much and losing an opportunity to take full advantage of the cure window. You see once the bud reaches the 55% RH range, the cure is dead. No amount of moisture added will revive this. If you are a brown bag dryer you can still use this technique, although I no longer do. I feel it is unneccessary at this point in the drying process. Just make sure you do not over dry. Also, this is a perfect time to calibrate your hygrometers with your new calibrating kit. This phase may take anywhere from 2 to 7 days depending on ambient temp, RH and strain, etc. It is important to be right on top of this phase. Sometimes we will notice thinner stemmed buds getting done quicker. It is ok to take these first and put them in the jar. Just screw the cap on very loosely until the bulk of the bud joins it.

    Phase two. 70% to 65% RH: This is where the numbers game begins to kick in. Once you have reached the crispy bud/flexible stem stage, it is time to jar it up. Now there are a few options here.. Really you can jar it up just like always. Only, fill your jar 3/4 to 4/5 full so you have room to use your hygrometer. You can leave it on the stem, stem free, whatever. I personally prefer it in it's finished state, no stems. You can leave just a few stems intact for the sake of testing stem flexibility. Also, with more stems comes more moisture. This may fit well with your style, but it also may play havoc if mold is present. Once your bud is in the jar drop in the hygrometer and cap it. Keep an eye on your meter for the next hour or so. What we are shooting for in this phase is 70% RH maximum. If you hit 71% or greater, you will have to take the bud out to dry more. If this seems a little tricky here, it is. The cure, even though we are still in the dry phase, has been happening to a small degree since the moment the bud was cut. Basically now we are juggling time with mold prevention. We want to avoid any instance of mold, but we want to get every second of cure time in that we can. The goal in this phase is to start at a 70% maximum RH and, in a timely and mold free manner, bring the RH down to about 65%. The reason I say "about" is that if there is an issue with mold (i.e. the crop was exposed to heavy mold before and/or during harvest) we may chose to take the RH even lower, like 62%. This won't leave a huge window for curing, but it will keep the bud safe. Ideally, however, 65% will do. Generally you can tell pretty quickly if the bud is still too wet as the hygrometer % will climb pretty quickly (rate: 1% per hour or faster). You will also notice, at this point, that the bud will feel "wetter". That's ok. The reason for this is that while the exposed part of the bud began to dry quicker than the inside during phase one, the inside of the bud and stems retained a good deal of their moisture. Once in the jars (phase two) that moisture can no longer be efficiently evaperated off and moved to a different area, being replaced by dryer air. Once you have determined the RH, which may take up to 24 hours, you can begin burping the jars. This can be done at a rate of one to two hours once or twice a day, depending on initial RH reading. Your room RH, temp, strain, exposure to mold and hygro readings will dictate this for you and wether to go faster or slower. Slower is always better, but precipitating factors, as stated, may trump this.. Also, at the end of this stage is where most commercial bud will hit the open market, if you are lucky. The bud at this stage should have that super sticky icky velvety feel and the 'bag appeal' will be at it's very highest.



    Phase three, 65% to 60% RH: Your buds are in the jar and RH is 65% or less. Perfect. The object of the game, as stated before, is to slowly release the moisture from the jar over time. Your buds are now in the cure zone. At this point we are looking for a much slower release than phase two and will shift to a short burp once a week. Your buds will deliver a nice smoke at around 60%, so the speed at which this is done (which translates directly to duration of burpage) is entirely up to you. It is at this stage that small stems should snap in two. It is also in this stage that you will meet true stability, or equalization, in RH. What that means is that the amount of moisture in the stems is no longer disproportionate to the buds, and moisture transfer or persperation (sweat) slows dramatically. This also means it will take much longer to get a true reading from your Hygrometer. A true reading at this point might take up to 36 hours, but that's ok.

    So, do you know what your idea of a perfect smoking bud is? If you have followed the phases as you have read them, then this is the stage where you can find out. It may be as specific as a stationary RH value, or even a "window" between different values. Everyone one should know there ideal smoking range. I prefer mine on a slightly dryer cure, say between 55 to 57%.


    Phase four, 60% to 55%+ RH: Even though a true cure is far from over, your buds are truly ready to smoke if you wish. They are also ready to face long term storage. As stated before, the cure dies at -55%. It is ok for the cure to be dead if you have reached your desired cure level as later remoisturing can easily bring that bud back into your prefered smoking range. But, you can also continue the cure for long time periods and the trick to this is to stay above the 55% level. Unfortunately even claimed 'air tight' jars will allow bud to continue losing moisture over time. The trick here is to guarantee air tightness. Simon has suggested that he jars in air tight jars and double vacuum bags it as a way to ensure cure integrity. I am less picky. It is a good idea, though not neccessary, to leave a hygro in the jar and check it from time to time. I would start with once a week for the first month then, if everything is stable, once every month after that should suffice.
     

    Peace


     







  2.  
    J5kidd03

    J5kidd03 Member

    Great article!!! Thanks dude
  3.  
    assasinofyouth420

    assasinofyouth420 Well-Known Member

    Hell yeah. Nice one.
  4.  
    oll1e

    oll1e Active Member

    no worries... Only thing id say is to try and catch the bendy flexible stage right- just make sure buds are not soft and gotta slight crisp- when ya whack into the jars. Keep a eye on hygrometer and then its plain sailing frm there- Refer back to the phases while ya going thru it and will help things loads.
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    SmeLLyTreeZ

    SmeLLyTreeZ Well-Known Member

    Nice read, thanks.
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    Mr.Highlyfe

    Mr.Highlyfe Active Member

    Where can i find a hygrometer? And about how much will it run me? Thanx for this thread ima new grower about to harvest for tha very first tyme and this info really helps to understand things a lot better +rep my friend and thanx again.
  7.  
    oll1e

    oll1e Active Member

    local grow shop- altho I can recommend a on line grow store that is prob the cheapest around- The grow superstore- google it- Im sure they do a mail order- other than that local grow shop btw 10-15£. I ve got 12 jars and the sad case I am ha Ive got one in each of my jars :) Looks good and very reassuring :)
  8.  
    oll1e

    oll1e Active Member

    Yeah I just googled and it comes up peterborough- Bell em they prob give you a ebay site to look at... BUt by far best shop for prices anywhere ....And Super Kosha.
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    Mr.Highlyfe

    Mr.Highlyfe Active Member

    ok thanx im gonna chec em out
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    suTraGrow

    suTraGrow Well-Known Member

    Hey bro wats up great article read it a few months ago. And started experimenting with it. I get a harvest every 3 weeks thank to my sog set up. One harvest i had i dried half of it to 69% humidity and one to 51% humidity. You state in your article that anything under 55% will not cure as it loses its cure window. But the batch that i cured for 3 weeks that had 51% humidity froim the started had a more potent smell and just looks nicer all around. I followed your instruction to a dot. Burped for one hour every 1 hours etc.... Do you have anything i can read like a research article you got your information from to clarify the lose of the cure under 55%. Any extra information will be greatly appreciate it.
    mayor juana likes this.
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    DaBong

    DaBong Well-Known Member

    Nice Read...
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    Pullin' weeds

    Pullin' weeds Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the info!
  13.  
    mayor juana

    mayor juana Active Member

    The drier they get the better they smell. I prefer a little less humidity because of this reason. Potency is variable and difficult to determine for me but it might be better.
  14.  
    suTraGrow

    suTraGrow Well-Known Member


    Umm sorry if i dont listen to you but after reading your last post that you want to put a fan right in front of your buds to dry them out as quick as possible which is complete crap. Unless you want chlorophyll trapped inside your buds. I suggest you do a little more research before you post. Not just post to get your post count up.
  15.  
    mayor juana

    mayor juana Active Member

    You do it your way buddy :wall:, and I'll do it mine :weed:
  16.  
    suTraGrow

    suTraGrow Well-Known Member

    Well yes of course i dont see why this would change anything in the way we do things. I was just correcting your mistake so others dont make the same one that is all. Nothing rude intended. :) Happy growing.
  17.  
    mayor juana

    mayor juana Active Member

    "But the batch that i cured for 3 weeks that had 51% humidity froim the started had a more potent smell and just looks nicer all around."

    You said it yourself, lower humidity is better :clap:, I agreed with you, and now you disagree with both of us.
  18.  
    Micromaster

    Micromaster Active Member

    From: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=156237

    [​IMG]

    This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

    It's a very simple and effective process:

    Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

    Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:

    +70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

    65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

    60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

    55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

    Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

    Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.
    CtOlaf and suTraGrow like this.
  19.  
    suTraGrow

    suTraGrow Well-Known Member

    No im disagreeing with you on your statement in another thread saying you wanna put a fan DIRECTLY on your nugs. Thats ridiculous your get the outside crisp dry but the inside will still be moist. And with a dry at that fast pace your gonna get chlorophyll lock in which will never supply you with a smooth smoke.
  20.  
    suTraGrow

    suTraGrow Well-Known Member

    This is excatly what i was looking for thank ya. +Rep

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