IF you are new to LED and want help choosing what to buy, POST HERE!

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MCOB

Member
Lol... at least they know what they're talking about.
Not quite, I'm saying livingsoilman quoted something from that guide. LeoLED themselves got the information from another source e.g. Wikipedia or other as I can see their copyscape percentage. Companies just rephrase these things in their own way. Again, theory is nice but proof is better.

PS: Plenty of sites that will list that info http://www.sunmastergrowlamps.com/SunmLightandPlants.html

But just because a company lists that (which is more or less standard and meaningless) doesn't mean they have a good product or know what they are doing. You can be a good door to door salesman selling vacuums without having ever used the product you are selling. Companies do it all the time. Especially the ones in China that love to list the specs and then send you junk that is nothing like the specs they advertised anyways.


Cheers,
 

ViceCityGrower

Well-Known Member
I'm totally new to grow lights and decided to go the DIY route. I ordered 2 Vero 29 4000K COBs and a MeanWell HLG-185h-c1400b. I know this driver will power 3 Vero 29s, but I only want to run two. Will it blow them or will it be ok? Thanks for any advice you can give.
Would like to know this as well
 

OutofLEDCloset

Well-Known Member
I couldn't read all 450 pages. ADD and all. So I may need some redundant information. If the crowd out there had only 750 dollars to spend. Would you choose the PLC 300w model? That's greengenes light.
 
This is off of a guide from LeoLED
Not quite, I'm saying livingsoilman quoted something from that guide. LeoLED themselves got the information from another source e.g. Wikipedia or other as I can see their copyscape percentage. Companies just rephrase these things in their own way. Again, theory is nice but proof is better. Cheers,
The proof is in the pudding. Knowing proper information goes along way. Only companies that know what they are doing post information as such.whats funny those cob lights you mentioned dont even provide the ppfd. The most simple reading . Wouldn't trust a company that dosnt even provide that.(probably dont have funds for such test or equipment) You cant just make a cob light and say its 200w without providing proper readings. 200w actual draw from wall doesnt mean squat without proper ppf and ppfd reading. Please steer away from any company with vauge spec information. The less they provide , the less they know about horticulture lights. Atleast those companies take time to inform the customer then mislead them with vague and non specific information.
 

hype281

Member
do you know the answer vice? can anyone help -- I'm in the middle of wiring -- do I set fans to blow air onto the heatsink or pull air from?

Sent from my SM-G900T using Rollitup mobile app
 

ViceCityGrower

Well-Known Member
I gotta ask my friend when he wakes up. He's using two he got from two old computers he had laying around. Heat sink and fan for free.
 

fjbudboy

Well-Known Member
I installed them blowing onto the heatsink dunno if they are right.. below them on the other side are 3x 3590 cob cd bin under each 80mm fan heatsink measurements are 3.75" w and 36" length with 1" fins base thickness is .3"[/QUOTE
Pushing/blowing works best at cooling, especially in open air. Pulling can be effective with shrouding. Examples in real life: cpu cooler fan pushes towards heatsink, xbox360 pulls air through heatsink and out the back, graphics cards push air through ducting across heatsink or push straight on.

In short pushing will give you the best performance.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
The proof is in the pudding. Knowing proper information goes along way. Only companies that know what they are doing post information as such.whats funny those cob lights you mentioned dont even provide the ppfd. The most simple reading . Wouldn't trust a company that dosnt even provide that.(probably dont have funds for such test or equipment) You cant just make a cob light and say its 200w without providing proper readings. 200w actual draw from wall doesnt mean squat without proper ppf and ppfd reading. Please steer away from any company with vauge spec information. The less they provide , the less they know about horticulture lights. Atleast those companies take time to inform the customer then mislead them with vague and non specific information.
I'd be much more likely now to buy a light like plc or tasty from people who advertise openly here and are wide out in the open for their criticism numbers numbers numbers numbers numbers. ..mean nothing without results are pretty much meaningless, just look at the different ways it's being done.

I say this after having bought a Shenzhen light. Then based on what I've learned here from the manufacturers of tasty and plc no less, have been able to produce 180 watts of quality light vs the 200 watts of which a high percentage was heat from a light that was advertised as 400w. Just because they blab about what makes a good light doesn't make then a good light manufacturer.
 
I'd be much more likely now to buy a light like plc or tasty from people who advertise openly here and are wide out in the open for their criticism numbers numbers numbers numbers numbers. ..mean nothing without results are pretty much meaningless, just look at the different ways it's being done.

I say this after having bought a Shenzhen light. Then based on what I've learned here from the manufacturers of tasty and plc no less, have been able to produce 180 watts of quality light vs the 200 watts of which a high percentage was heat from a light that was advertised as 400w. Just because they blab about what makes a good light doesn't make then a good light manufacturer.
Alot of led companies dont know about rollitup. Pretty sure I could get leoled or any other led company on these forurms its a matter of asking. And alot of the big players have tons of resources(money) for research and development. So the fact they take time to tell me how a light and par, pff, pffd, DLI matter and sorta explain "physics" mad props. Most companies are vauge and dont give you info at all. Im all about education on the consumer part so we dont end up buying shity lights. Maybe its time people start reaching out to these companies and let em know to get on these forums......
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Alot of led companies dont know about rollitup. Pretty sure I could get leoled or any other led company on these forurms its a matter of asking. And alot of the big players have tons of resources(money) for research and development. So the fact they take time to tell me how a light and par, pff, pffd, DLI matter and sorta explain "physics" mad props. Most companies are vauge and dont give you info at all. Im all about education on the consumer part so we dont end up buying shity lights. Maybe its time people start reaching out to these companies and let em know to get on these forums......
I don't disagree and would encourage participation from all. Like you said there are huge companies out there with rooms dedicated to measurements I'd like to take advantage of that.

One comment about PAR value comparison - what plant species are they using? Pretty sure at least us fed law would not allow them to openly advertise these values for a schedule 1 narcotic. I think mine used strawberries, all well and good cause I have a few but their PAR includes a region that fakes the plant into thinking the nights are cooler so new buds develop. To my understanding this region not a primary target for mj.
 

David Pasta

Active Member
Who uses the measuring instrument PAR? This instrument measures power red(600-690nm).
This measurement is absolutely useless !!
Here it's not about knowledge,but ensnare what most customers.
People, wake up !!
 

MCOB

Member
The company's that tell people to 'steer clear' of others that don't provide specs are the ones selling grow lights that are not competitively priced. I understand. Mars Hydro - 2 for $150. Hard to beat that and even I will admit it. Most home growers are looking for something cheap and $150 is nothing. The ones who are serious about growing often go for the best. This might be something that is very highly priced like BlackDog, Lumigrow or other premium product. Sure, not everyone agrees with their prices but they have been around a long time and are proven. Their higher costs reflect made in USA, higher overhead costs, and R&D. Doesn't necessarily mean it is the best product or best bang for your buck but hey, that's just the market. Unless the products are CSA approved or other, not really a big deal. Who cares if some American that gets paid $10/hr assembles a grow light fixture as opposed to people on some factory line in china that get paid that in a day. More or less the same product. You just pay for the extra cost and 'feel good' for supporting the US economy. But if your goal is to serve as many customers as possible, it is not helpful either because it means people using HPS are still going to use HPS because your sh*t costs too much to switch. So just buy something that works. If there is already a product on the market that works and yours isn't any better than why even bother?

I like to support companies that keep things simple and strive to make better products. I know for a fact that the company's I buy from are working on new products taking feedback from growers like myself into consideration.

If people prefer CREE chips over Epistar/Epiled then just request it and they'll make that for you so you can just buy it without having to deal with all the time consuming DIY.


"Stay clear drink the kool aid and buy the high priced grow light just because they spit technical jargon?" That doesn't sound right either. Put your light up against something I grow with and I guarantee I wouldn't be able to justify paying twice as much per light for the same results.
 
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