I ran into a wall!

how about running 240 instead of 120 hgk?? this way you're only drawing half the amps as you would be running 120..

not sure how do-able something like this is, but they do make 240 ballasts and all.. might get a bit pricey and not really the route you wanted to go, was just a thought..

IMO just upgrade your service and install a new larger panel.
Perhaps a hot tub, central air or new furnace are in the future.

All of the above (whether installed or not) are far better than chance of fire.

racerboy71 said:

how about running 240 instead of 120 hgk?? this way you're only drawing half the amps as you would be running 120..

not sure how do-able something like this is, but they do make 240 ballasts and all.. might get a bit pricey and not really the route you wanted to go, was just a thought..

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I'm running all 240 ballast in flower at the moment. Well all but 1 but il have that swapped today. I run a master lighting controller mxc8 by cap. Feed her 240 and she will feed 8 lights for ya.

It's so sad to me...... Half of my equipment isn't even hooked up. I musta had 150 or 200 at my last place and didn't even realize it. Lessons learned ehhh!

HGK420 said:

I'm running all 240 ballast in flower at the moment. Well all but 1 but il have that swapped today. I run a master lighting controller mxc8 by cap. Feed her 240 and she will feed 8 lights for ya.

It's so sad to me...... Half of my equipment isn't even hooked up. I musta had 150 or 200 at my last place and didn't even realize it. Lessons learned ehhh!

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lol, damn, was a good thought though..

Ya for sure. I wish I could run all my veg lights and my Ac on 240. Not sure if that's possible?

The mini split is 3tons, 240v from 8 to 20amps. I use SolisTek Matrix digital ballasts for flower.

HGK420 said:

It's so sad to me...... Half of my equipment isn't even hooked up.

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I cut out those fancy baller things like refrigerators and stoves first. TV only at lights out.

Lol we just moved in and don't have anything hooked up yet..... My gf is gonna crucify me!

That's why I'm trying to cut the fat to like 90. Tv and Internet and whatnot is still needed

slumdog80 said:

I cut out those fancy baller things like refrigerators and stoves first. TV only at lights out.

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Ha! Any bachelor in his right mind wouldn't dream of cutting the microwave and mini beer-fridge though, right?

st0wandgrow said:

Ha! Any bachelor in his right mind wouldn't dream of cutting the microwave and mini beer-fridge though, right?

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you'll lucky you live in michigan where fridges aren't really needed in the winter time..

That's a good point racer. Screw the beer fridge.... fire up another ballast!

st0wandgrow said:

That's a good point racer. Screw the beer fridge.... fire up another ballast!

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just open the door, or another window..

racerboy71 said:

just open the door, or another window..

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Just ask sub. It's -40 here year round.

i agree that the a/c units are pulling the most amperage in your grow. I ran into the same situation (i also have a 100Amp service) last year trying to add 30k BTU to a 4k watt flower room, the circuits would trip whenever i ran the dryer or washer, sometimes I couldnt' use the oven without tripping a circuit, it was aggravating. I eventually took out the A/C units and just put in 1 6" forced air, filtered, fresh air intake, cut down the electric bill by a couple hundred dollars per month, freed up about 20 amps. I eventually hooked up a C.A.P. night/day temp sensor with outlet to control the fan. now in the summers i run about 82F and in winter 72F with no A/C. i expected lower yields b/c of it but honestly haven't noticed a difference

man i wish it was -40 out right now.... basically im gonna have nothing but my ligths in the room that produce heat. (Im usuing amstersdam style open hoods) and going to have just 1 12,000 btu AC unit working its magic. its not a huge room or anything. 4800w 16.5' x 7.5'. that should about do the trick.

now my next step once i get the enviro all stabled out is Co2. im gonna do a passive system (no moving parts) and just run leakers all over my room. i have framing built to hold all my lights and a level for a scrog net that il just wire up with leakers. how big of Co2 tank do you think il need and how often would i be replacing it?

ive never messed with Co2 before except to shoot balls of paint lol. would a very slow leak at each light be enough to keep the levels in the room up???

I use a co2 generator for my room (9x9) all it is is a propane burner works great and only costs me about 10 bucks a week for propane it also produces heat for your room in the winter. I wouldn't recommend a generator unless you have an outbuilding room though (not in your house)

Nutes and Nugs said:

You have a lot of electric flowing through your house.
Hooking up a second box (flip box?) won't help any.
You're still only good for 100 amps.

When does it get cool there?
Just hold off a few weeks?

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The only thing holding him back from a larger main is the wires coming out of the meter. You can put double aught wire in there to the electrical box, that should handle the heat issue. It sounds like the wire coming out of the meter is smaller than that. I can imagine this being that big of a deal to fix.

actually-

its the size of the wire running into your meter that determines your amp capacity.

you dont wire grows, do you?

[h=3]Wire Size and Amp Ratings [/h]WARNING! Installation of electrical wire can be hazardous, if done improperly, can result in personal injury or property damage. For safe wiring practices, consult the National Electrical Code® and your local building inspector.

previously medinubile dude (b'hams friend) hires discount electr pays him shit. shows back up that wk and fire trucks wer at his show, haaa. side of hse was smoldering siding low grade fire caught by neighb. - rest o' details will be in .99 pamphlet for illin. find a professional btwn stat quo

also- we don't need no stinkin smart meters- not at a nongro hse just agri farmers carrots cucumbers cabbage,