I Bite off more than i can chew....lol PLEASE HELP...

Ok im in need of some help....im not only a nube, but im a screw up...About a week ago i had some VARY healthy plants...I have never grown before...I currently have 10 plants in veg, have been for 6 weeks now =)...24hr light...three under each 1000w hps, and three under one 1000w mh...mh are doing a tad better...ummmm ok here we go..

About a week and a half ago...i decided to be stupid and dry them out alil...i didnt water them until they wilted pretty bad, waited almost 5 days or so...no color change with the wilt tho.. apon feeding i gave them there strongest nute solution yet..i use BC Grow products, the beginers kit for like 30 bucks...feeding for veg stage and under recomended dosage, but still there strongest yet. Within a few days all my plants...wich are under diff conditions, id. pots, soil, and light spectrum pulled the same lookin leaf phuck up..ive posted pics...Im sure i have way more than one problem...I know nubes are to read posts first, i have read them all...Im just too much of a nube and dont know where to start...please i think i need some pros please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


ps. they look alil better than a few days ago....ive been doin nothing but watering with a ph of 5.9-6.1....strains are Reserva Pravada OG kush, Master Kush, Pineapple Express, Bubba Kush

Plain and simple...keep to a schedule. Consistency is key when it comes to indoor growing. Any time to introduce change to plants it's needs to be as minimal as possible. I would take your nutes down to 1/4 strength with 5.5 -5.8 ph for about a week and make sure you let the medium dry a bit before watering. Best of luck!

Suresh?

The proper pH for soil is 6.5 to 7.0, which indicates you are using too acidic a solution.

The dry out didn't do you any favors.

Mohinder is right though, find some consistency in your schedule and stay the course. Make sure your pH levels and temperature are fine.

yeahhhh consistancy is deff my problem..of the ten plants half are in diff soils, one third in buckets, one third in 7 gall flower pots, and one third in five gallon smart pots...the light spectrum deal is because of the mess up,, they were under mh for the first five weeks, i moved them to the bloom room and this happened so i havnt put them to 12-12 yet, im scared to, and dont think its smart to do so with them phucked up....i guess any advice i could get on a per plant basis would be a great help....anything you can give me from just the pics i guess lol there is to many variables...

Snow Crash said:

Suresh?

The proper pH for soil is 6.5 to 7.0, which indicates you are using too acidic a solution.

The dry out didn't do you any favors.

Mohinder is right though, find some consistency in your schedule and stay the course. Make sure your pH levels and temperature are fine.

Click to expand...

the water leaving the soil is at 7, the nute recomends to feed with solution at that rate, and everything ive read about the absorbtion of this solution is within those levels...Should i raise the ph in my solution even tho the dirt is at 7?

the plants will recover if you give them what they want. i don't know how strong of a dose you gave them, but you should never douse a bone dry plant with a hot nute solution. it also looks like a bit of magnesium def going on. you need to figure out why and fix it so you don't get premature yellowing from it. in general though i don't think your problem is over-nuting. the healthier leaves show no sign of nute burn on the tips. i think you'll get some people telling you that they yellow leaves are from lack of n, but my money's on magnesium.

edit: after reading the stuff about ph, i would raise the ph of the solution just a tad even though the runoff tests at 7. mg is usually the first lockout from lower ph in my experience.

temps 79 deg F, and humidity at 35-45 %...

Total Head said:

i think you'll get some people telling you that they yellow leaves are from lack of n, but my money's on magnesium.

Click to expand...

my money is definately on the N deficiency.....

check here...Self Diagnose Your Plants

here is a n deficient plant...

here is a mg deficient plant...

but looks like you have more than a couple of problems....

Pimp, how do you mix your nutes? What was the mix of your last feeding? What is your soil mix? List all nutes you have or using on your plants. I am a nOOb too but I had the exact same problem, I wasnt feeding my plants correctly. Just be patient marijuana plants are oh so forgiving.

Peace

BKB

bekindbud said:

Pimp, how do you mix your nutes? What was the mix of your last feeding? What is your soil mix? List all nutes you have or using on your plants. I am a nOOb too but I had the exact same problem, I wasnt feeding my plants correctly. Just be patient marijuana plants are oh so forgiving.

Peace

BKB

Click to expand...

I use Happy Frog soil, with the top four inches mixed with an organic peat filler.. As for the nutes i use BC Grow and Bloom starter kit...I mix as directed but not to full strength... Im thinken i have some sort of deff due to nute lock out of an OD of some sort.. Im going to top the soil with some good guano and keep it to water until i see a recovery...today they look like they are on their way out of their slump... Should i not do the guano? I was also gonna do a small dose of the magi-cal that came with the starter kit??? Can you give a plant that is deff due to lockout more of the nute it is deff or is that just stupid? lol that and myself jus stupid?! I have been trying to avoid any kind of major flush because i am limited on good clean water.....=(

ok i pussied out, i just watered with a vary lite dose of magnesium....some of the magi-cal that came in the kit... i hope this works...

sputniknz said:

my money is definately on the N deficiency.....

check here...Self Diagnose Your Plants

here is a n deficient plant...

here is a mg deficient plant...

but looks like you have more than a couple of problems....

Click to expand...

check out the 2nd pic in the op, right around the middle of the photo. classic mag def. the pic you showed from 420mag shows very mild mag def. once progressed the patterns become vey clear and striped, and then full on yellowing. odds are if there is a def of anything there will be a def of another, but i don't think this origionally started as an N def.

Take a look at this diagram. It has been very helpfull to me. Plants dont like saturated soil for days, but dont let them fry out to much.
PH should be around 6.5-6.8

r8rdrew said:

Take a look at this diagram. It has been very helpfull to me. Plants dont like saturated soil for days, but dont let them fry out to much.
PH should be around 6.5-6.8

Click to expand...

I ph my nute solution to 5.9-6.1, then i check the water that comes out in the tray, wich is about 7... I was told by a grower this is better than getting a soil ph tester? is this true?

if you are using dirt. (i do) i PH to 6.5-6.6 or close as possible.
before i introduce to the plant


look at the valuable nutes (magnesium, calcium and most of all phosphorous)that are lost because it is below 6.5. (If using hydro, follow chart)

ok they got alil better...my camera isnt working.....

My grower buddy came over and he seems to think its because im vegging under 24hrs with the two 1000w hps, he says i can only do 24-0 with my metal halide? is this true????? my metal halide ones do look alil better than the hps's.......

Why do 24 hour lighting in the first place?

It is pretty widely known that 24 hours of light doesn't mean larger plants. You could be using 75% of the energy on an 18/6 schedule and have plants that are the same size.

Save money and give your plants a little rest all while getting the same results... Sounds like a winning plan I think.

I think you have just a couple of minor issues. The MH light is definitely better for your vegging plants as far as the color spectrum although I think less wattage would also help for vegging. You can veg under minimal lighting (400w-600w) and then put under HPS 1000w when you switch to flowering. This also allws you to have light closer to plant tops without burning. If you have to use the 1000w for veg, make sure it is at least 3'-4' from tops and that you have plenty of air circulation. No doubt your plants will respond better to the MH blue lihjt spectrum or even to a T-5 fluorescent light.
Concerning mag deficiency and moisture issues, you can also put a half teaspoon of Epson salt per gallon to add magnesium instead of Cal Mag. and you can purchase (for cheap) those moister/pH stake things that go into the soil to tell you if the plant is moist down in the center of soil and roots. They work great for just the moister part and watering just as needed, but I would use a more accurate pH meter. They can be found sometimes at the dollar store but are about $5.00 at any home and garden center.
I'll insert pics of my mothers under T-5 600w as well as the meter used for moisture.
Hope this helps.
Keep us posted.

What would possess you to intentionally let your plants wilt and than fertilize heavily? I can't really understand a scenario that someone would think that's a good idea. My plants wilt sometimes and you can tell it puts some stress on them. In the video Sea of Green the narrator specifically says never to feed thirsty plants. I always figured that they would suck up all that nutrient solution in a hurry and damage them, I assume thats what you have done. Hopefully hey will recover alright but I think you have set yourself back some time on this one. You have an amazing set up though, once you get it dialed in I'm sure you it will be jaw dropping.

Ok, to me they look alil better...I have been making sure my PH is 6.5-6.6 with an electronic meter...one i had the whole time but was setting to hydro ph of 5.5...

I feed them when dry because im a noob and didnt think, common sence should have told me not to do that..

The ones under my 1000 MH i posted this time (plants on green tile), although they shared the same characteristics as the others at last post they are looking almost 100% now... I hope its just the HPS making the others take longer to heal, for they are on the same nute schedule....

The plants are now almost two months old and still in veg....WHEN CAN I FLOWER THEM...I want to do it right now but dont know when the best time would be, are these plants going to get better????

From what you've seen is there anything else im doing wrong?!

again, please and thank you!!!!!!!!!