Hydroponics Question and Answer NewGrowth Style
- Thread starter NewGrowth
- Start date
GypsyBush
Well-Known Member
Here you go NG...
I would appreciate any criticism...
Cheers...
I would appreciate any criticism...
Cheers...
Well... here goes another Photo Update....
We'll start out with the TOOLS of the TRADE....this is how I managed to not make eleventeen trips up and down the stairs, with my leg in a cast...
And here we have the PATHETIC clones that will probably yield an 8th each...
An overview of the trays being used right now...
And the clones that have been in for 3 weeks now...
Just in case anyone was wondering... I cut panda film squares with a slit and a hole... they just overlap each other to form the white base...
Here is the new mother station... which gives me more room and better light... 400 w HO T-5 + 100 w Ho T-5... I am running 2 trays in this room... one 2x4 at 600~800 PPM and a small skinny one at 1400PPM... so I can boost the moms chosen for the next round of clones ... while maintaining everyone else at a lower PPM (lower cost)...
More room allows for things like Lettuce...
& Thyme...
Another angle pf the flower room...
And the clones that I fried...
A closer look at the budding clones...
How about some HARVEST pictures next....???
Here is one of the smaller lollipops...
And we keep going down the line...
and last but not least... the miniatures...
Well....That's All Folks...!!!
Ok... so I bought clones a roughly 4 weeks ago. I am growing in a hydro drip fees system and I am going through so much distilled water. It seems everyday that I must add more distilled water to dilute my ppm. According to my ppm chart my ppm for the start of the 4th week should be around 1200, but after I did that the following day it was around 1350. So I lowered my ppm to 1150, sure enough the following day my ppm was at 1290. Why am I having so much trouble? Is there a way to figure out how much I need to lower my ppm? or do I gradually continue lowering it until it stops changing?
Thank You
Matt
Thank You
Matt
curious.george
Well-Known Member
New Growth, I was hoping you had a comment on the question I posted in marijuana plant problems.
Here is a copy
I have these brown spots on my lower leaves.
The plants look fine other than that but I am worried they will spread to the forming buds.
Abut the spots:
They appear to be a substance on the back of the leaves, or at least they start out that way. I used a 30x microscope to look at them, in one case I was able to move one so that it was mostly dangling off the leaves, it looked like a tiny piece of granite crystal. They seem to be whitish with a black ring on the outside of them when I look through a microscope. The leaves eventually turn totally brown and crispy starting at the tips. The spots seem to be near the veins of the leaves. None of the new growth has spots and the buds look fine so far.
Here is a leaf that just started to have them, no spots on the top of the leaf only a few on the bottom,
and the spots through a microscope
and here is where I picked the leaf
Here is some leaves that look bad
and where I picked them
The whole garden photo
About the garden:
coco coir ebb-flow hydro using canna coco nutes at 1000ppm. I use H202 to control slime mold that gets in my reservoir, I used to have PH problems long ago due to pathogens, h2o2 solded that. Nothing else in my res. I spray safer sulfur once in a while to try an prevent bud mold. Also some x-clude pyrenthrum spray to control for fungus gnats, also on the bottom half of the plant. I get grey mold on plant debris in the grow room, so those spores are there. PH is checked often. The light is 2 150w hps and 4 55w t5 tubes. I live where its cold and humid outside.
hopefully with these better photos and better description someone has an idea. It seems it can not be a nutrient deficenticy because the things come off and I use good nutes. Also I see no movment so I dont think its bugs. I am thinking its either a mold or from my sulfur spray. If its mold I need more sulfur, if its sulfur I need less sulfur.
Here is a copy
I have these brown spots on my lower leaves.
The plants look fine other than that but I am worried they will spread to the forming buds.
Abut the spots:
They appear to be a substance on the back of the leaves, or at least they start out that way. I used a 30x microscope to look at them, in one case I was able to move one so that it was mostly dangling off the leaves, it looked like a tiny piece of granite crystal. They seem to be whitish with a black ring on the outside of them when I look through a microscope. The leaves eventually turn totally brown and crispy starting at the tips. The spots seem to be near the veins of the leaves. None of the new growth has spots and the buds look fine so far.
Here is a leaf that just started to have them, no spots on the top of the leaf only a few on the bottom,
and the spots through a microscope
and here is where I picked the leaf
Here is some leaves that look bad
and where I picked them
The whole garden photo
About the garden:
coco coir ebb-flow hydro using canna coco nutes at 1000ppm. I use H202 to control slime mold that gets in my reservoir, I used to have PH problems long ago due to pathogens, h2o2 solded that. Nothing else in my res. I spray safer sulfur once in a while to try an prevent bud mold. Also some x-clude pyrenthrum spray to control for fungus gnats, also on the bottom half of the plant. I get grey mold on plant debris in the grow room, so those spores are there. PH is checked often. The light is 2 150w hps and 4 55w t5 tubes. I live where its cold and humid outside.
hopefully with these better photos and better description someone has an idea. It seems it can not be a nutrient deficenticy because the things come off and I use good nutes. Also I see no movment so I dont think its bugs. I am thinking its either a mold or from my sulfur spray. If its mold I need more sulfur, if its sulfur I need less sulfur.
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
Here is the guidelines to find proper PPM:
1.Water level drops PPM goes up: Drop your nutrient strength in relationship to the PPM rise.
2. Water level drops PPM stays the same: You may be able to fine tune you nutrient strength, if growth is vigorous leave it alone.
3. Water level drops PPM drops: Raise you nutrient strength in relationship too PPM drop.
Lets do some quick math with your readings start 1200 end 1350. 1350-1200= 150 total change ( a minor rise but still significant in only 24 hours)
Ok 1150 to 1290= 140 total change. An change of 50 ppm is giving you a 10 ppm flux in PPM drift. So 14 times 50 is 700. Does not necessarily tell you exactly how much to drop your PPM but give you a ballpark, I would drop by half that about 350 PPM. See how your plants respond and measure the drift like you have been. That would be 800 ppm you might have to go up a bit from there but it gives you a solid starting point.
Hey george great post.New Growth, I was hoping you had a comment on the question I posted in marijuana plant problems.
Here is a copy
I have these brown spots on my lower leaves.
The plants look fine other than that but I am worried they will spread to the forming buds.
Abut the spots:
They appear to be a substance on the back of the leaves, or at least they start out that way. I used a 30x microscope to look at them, in one case I was able to move one so that it was mostly dangling off the leaves, it looked like a tiny piece of granite crystal. They seem to be whitish with a black ring on the outside of them when I look through a microscope. The leaves eventually turn totally brown and crispy starting at the tips. The spots seem to be near the veins of the leaves. None of the new growth has spots and the buds look fine so far.
Here is a leaf that just started to have them, no spots on the top of the leaf only a few on the bottom,
and the spots through a microscope
and here is where I picked the leaf
Here is some leaves that look bad
and where I picked them
The whole garden photo
About the garden:
coco coir ebb-flow hydro using canna coco nutes at 1000ppm. I use H202 to control slime mold that gets in my reservoir, I used to have PH problems long ago due to pathogens, h2o2 solded that. Nothing else in my res. I spray safer sulfur once in a while to try an prevent bud mold. Also some x-clude pyrenthrum spray to control for fungus gnats, also on the bottom half of the plant. I get grey mold on plant debris in the grow room, so those spores are there. PH is checked often. The light is 2 150w hps and 4 55w t5 tubes. I live where its cold and humid outside.
hopefully with these better photos and better description someone has an idea. It seems it can not be a nutrient deficenticy because the things come off and I use good nutes. Also I see no movment so I dont think its bugs. I am thinking its either a mold or from my sulfur spray. If its mold I need more sulfur, if its sulfur I need less sulfur.
I have never used a sulfur burner but according to Al B too much can burn the plants. How often do you run your burner? Al was running his burner for fifteen minutes once every eight hours to prevent mold.
The symptoms of your necrosis indicate a root zone problem, spotting necrosis followed by yellowing leaves moving up the plant. I can't think of why however you set up seems fine. Sometimes an enzyme treatment can help in organic media. H202 is not very compatible with organic media. The enzyme will eat away any dead organic mater so that food sources for damaging bacteria are eliminated.
The other possibility is low-light necrosis, the lights you are using have poor canopy penetration so sometimes the lower leaves will spot yellow any die.
Good luck man
curious.george
Well-Known Member
it is actually a bottle of safer brand sulfur spray. What do you use to prevent bud rot? I started using it after reading the al. b faqt and not having $120 for the burner.
root zone, good to know.
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
I live in a very dry climate. My veg space has a humidifier but the natural climate in my area runs at about 30% humidity at most so mold is not much of a problem. Maybe stop spraying the sulfur and see if the problem improves. Keep us updated.
erickw1822
Active Member
Would someone take a look at these and give me some advice???
I would like to start flowering soon but i would like to fix the current problem...
THANKS!!!
EAZY FO SHEEZY!!
I would like to start flowering soon but i would like to fix the current problem...
THANKS!!!
EAZY FO SHEEZY!!
Attachments
hatchbacknation
Active Member
how long should i flush my system before harvest
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
Yeah I am not very good at explaining math. The 14 comes from 140 ppm that was your total drift divided by ten. I divided by ten because for every 10 ppm in drift you had adjusted by 50 ppm. Let me see if I can write an equation for the whole thing:
tc=total change(140 ppm)
f= flux(10ppm)
a=adjustment (50ppm)
tc/f *a=total/2
140/10*50=700/2= 350ppm
Need more information hard to tell with pictures of leaves you picked off. where it is happening give me more info about your set up.
Depends on a lot of factors, if you have a well dialed system a day will do fine. If you have a lot of salt build up then two weeks.
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
Here is a question, or two, for you. What does it mean when you have small leaves? Again, my plants are 4 1/2 weeks old and are between 11'' to 1'3". I have 2 OG, 1 Jack the Ripper, and 1 white Widow. My Jack the Ripper is the second tallest and has small leaves. I remember reading somewhere that it is a sign on something negative, but cannot find where I readNG "fuzzy" math
Let me know how it works out.
this.
Also, I am growing in 6" Rock Wool cubes and it seems that my roots are not growing down into my hydroton. Any ideas? I mean roots are poking out of the bottom of the Rock Wool, but they stop there. My roots do not continue growing. Is there something wrong?
Thank You,
Matt
Ok so the other day we discussed PPM. I followed your directions and lowered the PPM down to 820. Today I checked the PPM and it has risen up to 960. So that is a difference of 140.NG "fuzzy" math
Let me know how it works out.
140/10 = 14
14*50 = 700 (these just so happen to be the same numbers we had earlier)
700/2 = 350
So now according to the math I should subtract 350 from my 820 PPM? If this is true then my PPM will be at 470. Not to mention that my tap water is around 310 PPM. Also according to my PPM chart for this past week I should be around 1200 PPM. Doesn't 470 seem extremely low for plants that started out as clones and have been growing for about 5 weeks now? Do you think may be my roots have locked out my nuets and that is why the PPM increases everyday? I NEED HELP, this is getting frustrating.
Thank You,
Matt
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
Well some drift is to be expected. I agree 470 ppm would be very low for plants five weeks old. How much water are they using? The drift is consistent which is a good sign. How do the plants look? Is the growth healthy? I would run 820 and watch the rise over a few days, it might stabilize at some point. Do you have any Ph flux?
Cool man keep us updated.
NewGrowth
Well-Known Member
Just saw this one too. If your rock wool is over saturated it could be causing this. Any light getting to the rootzone can also stunt root growth. Are you pre-soaking your rockwool? Not sure what you mean by small leaves but deformed leaves indicate Ph imbalance. Do you have any pictures matty?
smartbadguy
Well-Known Member
how do you determine the amount of water you need of the x ammout of plant? like say i wanna put 10 site how much liter i need for the res