what is ideal water temp my grow closet is 80f and water in my rez is 80f also what temp should i reach for? my rez has 6 gallons in it i can go no higher than 6 gallons how can i keep water cooler if i need to cool less than 80f? 1 small frozen water bottle may make it too cold maybe i dunno should i try?
Hydro water temp.
- Thread starter Mjoestic
- Start date
Dutchy_Herbivoir
Active Member
I did that earlier today but my 1,5L bottle didn't do much. Will try it again tonight and see what happens. Maybe toss in two bottles but it will only be a short term solution. I've found res chillers but they are quite pricey. If you come up with a solution let me know!!
Regards
Dutchy H
Regards
Dutchy H
Dutchy_Herbivoir
Active Member
Potroast told me that I should keep it within 15-18'C and I am having major problems here because I have between 25-28'C in my res.
bubblerking
Well-Known Member
68 is ideal water temp
FilthyFletch
Mr I Can Do That For Half
68 isnt too bad.I try to keep my res at 60-65 F so that by time it goes through the pump and misters it hits the roots at between 68-70 any higher temps stunt root growth and makes for bad plants. Such a small ress is an issue.Try the ice bottles or get the res out of that grow area where its cooler and run lines. Chillers are great but finidning them under $200 is a hard thing to do.Im working on an idea of using an old mini fridge and a long copper coil in its freezer.Basically Im gonna drill a hole into the fridge and use a tight rubber grommet. Run the copper inside the fridge in a coil then up into the freezer part in a small tight coil.I will add cupling to each end then hoses to my pump on 1 side then from the other side to my manifold.That way the water has to run through the cold fridge then freezer then to the system then drains back into res.The water will be cooler as it goes as cooler water drains back in the res and the coild recool as it goes out.
FilthyFletch
Mr I Can Do That For Half
I saw 1 for $108 but my res is around 50 gallons and it says maybe a 1-2 degree decrease from that unit but would be good for a real small res.Here is kind of what I was thinking of doing witht he fridge.I found someone else with a similar idea and will make this its own thread but here it is.
DIY Chiller Plans
[SIZE=-1]Diagram & Instructions[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]The more coils, the better the "pull-down" effect and the more efficient the unit operates. Depending on the brand/model that you are using, you may encounter insulation between the housing and the inner box when drilling your input/output holes. There is no need to seal the door. I had originally thought of this, but decided against it as I figured I might need the access if something went wrong down the road. Besides, it's a great place to keep your additives that require refrigeration after opening (and a 6 pack!).[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Another point to consider, the farther the run of plastic tubing from your sump to the chiller and back, the greater the line loss due to ambient room temperature. Sit the chiller as CLOSE to the sump or aquarium cabinet as possible. You could use pipe insulation wrapped around the tubingrun(s), but this is rather unsightly and not really necessary unless living in a very hot/humid environment.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Operation is straight-forward. Remember to keep the flow fast enough to prevent freezing of the coils inside the box. If equipped with a thermostat, your fridge/chiller will be easier to control. Some models only allow you to set the main box temperature, not the freezer compartment. That's another reason why I removed the aluminum ice cube divider and tray. The probe that is attached to the wall of the freezer area will now monitor the entire cavity. Try to use opaque tubing to eliminate algae growth from the sump to the unit and back. You will probably get the black, smudged variety, not the bright green that we see in and around the lighting canopy. I used the milky-white, semi-transparent variety of hard, plastic tubing and experienced this build-up after 6 months or so.[/SIZE]
DIY Chiller Plans
- [SIZE=-1]Purpose: A rather quick and inexpensive method for maintaining a steady system temperature, especially during those long hot summer months.[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]Materials[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]Dorm-sized refrigerator (1 to 1-1/2 cubic feet).[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]50 to 100 feet of 3/8 inch hard plastic tubing (depending, vinyl isn't as good a choice here).[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]PVC fittings (90 degree elbows or straight connects, threaded or slip).[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]Aquarium safe Silicone sealant.[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]1/2 inch thin-wall PVC pipe (about 1 foot for the "thru-the-box" connections).[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]Hand drill and 1/2 inch drill bit (or 5/16 inch if you prefer).[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]Screwdrivers to fit the various hardware of the particular fridge you own.[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]Rio 2500 or similar pump/powerhead to push the water through the chiller.[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]Materials Cost Considerations[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]The fridge should set you back $89 to $199 depending on the size you choose.[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]The Rio 2500 runs anywhere from $39.95 (mail order) to $69.95 at your LFS (Local Fish Store).[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]The fittings, tubing and pipe shouldn't run more than $10 to $15 bucks, depending on how much and what style you choose.[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]Hopefully you already have a drill and the bit(s).[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Diagram & Instructions[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]"A"=Water in from sump.[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]"B"=Chilled water returned to sump[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]"C"=Freezer compartment with temp probe attached to the inside wall of the cooling box.[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]"D"=3/8 inch coiled plastic tubing.[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]"E"=The refrigerator housing and inner plastic box.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]The more coils, the better the "pull-down" effect and the more efficient the unit operates. Depending on the brand/model that you are using, you may encounter insulation between the housing and the inner box when drilling your input/output holes. There is no need to seal the door. I had originally thought of this, but decided against it as I figured I might need the access if something went wrong down the road. Besides, it's a great place to keep your additives that require refrigeration after opening (and a 6 pack!).[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]Drill your access holes in the top or sides, it really doesn't matter.[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]Cut 2 pieces of the PVC pipe about 4 inches each.[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]Insert through the holes drilled and seal VERY WELL with the silicone.[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]You may want to reinforce these pipes with a little Devcon 5 minute epoxy prior to sealing them with the silicone. Keeps 'em from sliding back and forth and breaking the cured silicone seal should you want to move the fridge down the road.[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]Glue or thread your fittings onto these 2 access pipes.[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]I used nylon threaded nipples to connect the 3/8 inch tubing coils inside the cooling box.[/SIZE]
- [SIZE=-1]Outside, I glued slip fittings reduced to accommodate the tubing running from the Rio 2500 sump pump to the chiller and back to the sump.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Another point to consider, the farther the run of plastic tubing from your sump to the chiller and back, the greater the line loss due to ambient room temperature. Sit the chiller as CLOSE to the sump or aquarium cabinet as possible. You could use pipe insulation wrapped around the tubingrun(s), but this is rather unsightly and not really necessary unless living in a very hot/humid environment.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Operation is straight-forward. Remember to keep the flow fast enough to prevent freezing of the coils inside the box. If equipped with a thermostat, your fridge/chiller will be easier to control. Some models only allow you to set the main box temperature, not the freezer compartment. That's another reason why I removed the aluminum ice cube divider and tray. The probe that is attached to the wall of the freezer area will now monitor the entire cavity. Try to use opaque tubing to eliminate algae growth from the sump to the unit and back. You will probably get the black, smudged variety, not the bright green that we see in and around the lighting canopy. I used the milky-white, semi-transparent variety of hard, plastic tubing and experienced this build-up after 6 months or so.[/SIZE]
Lord Dangly Bits
Well-Known Member
Ok, First off, I know nothing about Res temps. But I do know this. I never check my res temp, and my room is always 82-84f in temp, I just checked my Res, it is 78f, and I get good results, and great big huge white healthy root balls, the size of soccer balls. I will just stick with the temps I have.
FilthyFletch
Mr I Can Do That For Half
Temps can vary my comment was using suggested researched optimol res temps. I tend to have my roots about 8-12 feet per plant at finish which is at only 5 weeks flower and 12 days veg so I stick to my 65-68 with pleasure with my room at 88-90 with co2 and if I dont use co2 then 78 degrees
th3bigbad
Well-Known Member
i had a prob with res temps when i first started doing a 50 gallon DWC. i looked into chillers, but im like most of yall. im not going to pay a few hundred bucks to keep my roots cool. my room temps stayed about 80 so, i made something that works like a chiller and keeps my res temps at 65 +/-2, and for under 20 bucks. its easy fast and works really well, but you have to have a place to run 2 hoses outside of your growroom/house.
all you need is a water pump and a water hose. i used a a water pump i had laying around, and a 100' garden hose from walmart i got for 8 bucks. the pump is just a little pump that has just enough power to move the water at a steady trickle.
you start by makeing 2 holes out of your grow room. i used the vent hole i had cut in the floor for my air intake to my cool tube. i just ran the 2 ends of the water hose inside my intake/drier hose, and the rest of the hose layed on the ground outside. that saved me from cutting any new holes. i hooked 1 end of the hose to the pump then put the pump at 1 end of my res and the other end of the hose at the other end of the res. that way the pump wouldnt be sucking up all the cool water the open end of the hose pumped out.
once that was done i went outside here the hose ran out of the grow room at and dug a hole about 2' wide and 3' deep. (turns out that was about 5 times more room than i needed.)
then just tossed in the hose alil at a time. i tried to keep a few inches dirt between coils of hose for better heat transfer. we all know under ground the temp stays nice and cool.
make sure to have the hose full of water when you start putting the dirt back in the hole. my pump didnt have enough power to fill up the hose once the weight of the dirt was on it. i had to unhook the ends and hook them up to the water outlet from the house to expand the crushed hose. and also try to have the hole as close to the growroom as possible. or atleast cover the lines with something. it doesnt take long for the water to heat backup once above ground.
thats it. i spent less than 20 bucks and about 2 hours of work. useing the same size hole as i dug i couldve easily had 3 or 4 hoses run the same way without them touching each other.
my res temp slowly dropped to a steady 65. it took about a week to get down that low, but once it got there it stayed no matter how hot or cold it got outside. hope this helps
all you need is a water pump and a water hose. i used a a water pump i had laying around, and a 100' garden hose from walmart i got for 8 bucks. the pump is just a little pump that has just enough power to move the water at a steady trickle.
you start by makeing 2 holes out of your grow room. i used the vent hole i had cut in the floor for my air intake to my cool tube. i just ran the 2 ends of the water hose inside my intake/drier hose, and the rest of the hose layed on the ground outside. that saved me from cutting any new holes. i hooked 1 end of the hose to the pump then put the pump at 1 end of my res and the other end of the hose at the other end of the res. that way the pump wouldnt be sucking up all the cool water the open end of the hose pumped out.
once that was done i went outside here the hose ran out of the grow room at and dug a hole about 2' wide and 3' deep. (turns out that was about 5 times more room than i needed.)
then just tossed in the hose alil at a time. i tried to keep a few inches dirt between coils of hose for better heat transfer. we all know under ground the temp stays nice and cool.
make sure to have the hose full of water when you start putting the dirt back in the hole. my pump didnt have enough power to fill up the hose once the weight of the dirt was on it. i had to unhook the ends and hook them up to the water outlet from the house to expand the crushed hose. and also try to have the hole as close to the growroom as possible. or atleast cover the lines with something. it doesnt take long for the water to heat backup once above ground.
thats it. i spent less than 20 bucks and about 2 hours of work. useing the same size hole as i dug i couldve easily had 3 or 4 hoses run the same way without them touching each other.
my res temp slowly dropped to a steady 65. it took about a week to get down that low, but once it got there it stayed no matter how hot or cold it got outside. hope this helps
antipythium
Well-Known Member
There is a res cooler which was very popular back in the O.G. days, and it was a sticky there for res cooling.
A hole the size of a small computer fan is cut in the roof of the reservoir at each end. A fan is placed face down blowing down onto the water on one hole: and shaded somehow, using creative diy means like the end of a small box that's larger than the hole, put over the hole and fan. Notches cut out of two sides so air can come in, and the body of the fan blocks reflection in from the side.
Same thing on the other end, shade the hole but let air out.
The fan is then just turned on.
The cause of this working is the 'evaporative effect'.
Heat in a column of water rises to the top: the moist air above the surface of the water is the place where the most heat collects: and humid air takes on and holds heat very well. The heat, rises up into the moist air, easier than water itself, evaporates: creating the 'evaporative effect' which is cooling which surpasses the actual loss of water, due to the convection of heat upward more easily, than the conversion of the water itself, into water vapor. It's the same principle that allows the swamp cooler or evaporative cooler, to chill buildings all over the world, from small cottages to warehouses of enormous size.
When you blow this hottest air off, a light evaporative effect takes place, that has been found to create minimal actual water evaporation yet it will take about ten degrees off a reservoir the size of a tub.
The sticky on Overgrow was many pages long; and everybody that did it said it worked. In my case i am able to use a real evaporative cooler to cool my water because i have access to the crawl space below my house and live in a very dry desert.
Others who have used the method i describe above will be able to verify what i'm telling you.
A hole the size of a small computer fan is cut in the roof of the reservoir at each end. A fan is placed face down blowing down onto the water on one hole: and shaded somehow, using creative diy means like the end of a small box that's larger than the hole, put over the hole and fan. Notches cut out of two sides so air can come in, and the body of the fan blocks reflection in from the side.
Same thing on the other end, shade the hole but let air out.
The fan is then just turned on.
The cause of this working is the 'evaporative effect'.
Heat in a column of water rises to the top: the moist air above the surface of the water is the place where the most heat collects: and humid air takes on and holds heat very well. The heat, rises up into the moist air, easier than water itself, evaporates: creating the 'evaporative effect' which is cooling which surpasses the actual loss of water, due to the convection of heat upward more easily, than the conversion of the water itself, into water vapor. It's the same principle that allows the swamp cooler or evaporative cooler, to chill buildings all over the world, from small cottages to warehouses of enormous size.
When you blow this hottest air off, a light evaporative effect takes place, that has been found to create minimal actual water evaporation yet it will take about ten degrees off a reservoir the size of a tub.
The sticky on Overgrow was many pages long; and everybody that did it said it worked. In my case i am able to use a real evaporative cooler to cool my water because i have access to the crawl space below my house and live in a very dry desert.
Others who have used the method i describe above will be able to verify what i'm telling you.
That's an awesome idea. Perfect actually. Uses no electricity and keep the water at a natural ground temperature. How can you beat that!? I can't do that unfortunately due to logistics/location, etc. I went on Craig's lit and bought a used water cooler. The typical office water cooler. Had a hot and cold unit in it. I took it apart and separated the two. I then bought a thermostat and a thermostatic outlet. The thermostat turns on when the temp falls below a certain temperature and turn the hot water heater on. The return water always passes through the heater so it heats it up when turned on The chiller portion of the unit I dropped (the coils only) inside the res the thermostatic switch outlet turn the unit on when the temp goes above a certain temperature. I set the switch to 65 and the thermostat to 68. Works like a charm and quickly. The water stays within a couple degree range. I spent no more than 125 bucks on the whole thing!
hotrodharley
Well-Known Member
Why are you responding to a 5 year old thread? Just wondering.
completenoobie
Well-Known Member
because learning never stops. who are you to attempt to control another living being? your rights end where his nose begins.
the point of life is to learn. the point of death is to cessate that process. get busy learning or get busy dying.
who he is, is a regular schmoe, like all of us (except you apparently) who has found something he wants to explore, no matter who the fuck in the world has explored it before him.
personally, i have found that the oldest threads contain the best of the best that wisdom has to offer. and if noone ever bumps an old thread, it dies.
you die twice in your life. the first time when your body body ceases to function, and the second when the last time your name is ever uttered aloud.
who wants to die? once, twice, or forever?
GET BUSY LEARNING OR GET BUSY DYING. and living is learning. fuck the alternative. i ain't ready.
the point of life is to learn. the point of death is to cessate that process. get busy learning or get busy dying.
who he is, is a regular schmoe, like all of us (except you apparently) who has found something he wants to explore, no matter who the fuck in the world has explored it before him.
personally, i have found that the oldest threads contain the best of the best that wisdom has to offer. and if noone ever bumps an old thread, it dies.
you die twice in your life. the first time when your body body ceases to function, and the second when the last time your name is ever uttered aloud.
who wants to die? once, twice, or forever?
GET BUSY LEARNING OR GET BUSY DYING. and living is learning. fuck the alternative. i ain't ready.