Tanuvan
Well-Known Member
This is mainly for newcomers to Hydro.
I often see DWC (Deep Water Culture,Bio Buckets, Bubble Buckets..etc.) recommended as one of the easier methods to get started in Hydro. In all honesty, I feel it isn't. Let me explain...
The most common problems I see surrounding DWC are temp issues. Staving off root rot with a warm reservoir is a futile effort. In some cases it requires adding "beneficial bacteria", reservoir chillers, frequent reservoir changes, and possibly all kinds of other gadgets.
You also have...pH fluctuations, drifting ppm, all kinds of other things. To those who have been in hydro for a while, these are easily remedied...but to newcomers, it can be a bit overwhelming...especially combined with the panic that their plant is dieing..leaves curling..etc. (At least it was for me...I am big enough to admit that)
Suddenly the DWC doesn't sound as easy. Why is this method recommended initially? I have no idea. But the easiest method I have seen to date is the "Hempy" Bucket. You get great yields...the transition from soil to hydro is more intuitive. You gradually learn about adjusting pH and PPM. Because you prepare your nutrient solution in batches, you eliminate a lot of issues that plague new hydroponic enthusiasts.
No recirculating nutrients means no pH or PPM drifting. pH is set to slightly more acidic than soil (6.0-6.2) and life is good. You can then spend more time learning about Hydro and less time tending to a sick plant.
The creation of the Hempy Bucket is rather easy. It includes using a bucket no larger than 3 Gallons. A hole roughly the size of 1/2 inch is drilled approx 2 inches up from the bottom. This is a temporary reservoir. That hole prevents you from over watering. You can use several different combinations of inert media ranging from coco coir to straight perlite...and anything in between. (The standard is 2/3 perlite 1/3 vermiculite)
The watering frequency will be determined by the media you select. Using the standard media, you will water once with nutrient solution every 2-3 days. If you notice signs of over watering, then increase the time between waterings.
As you progress, you may want either something a bit more automated but with less hassles of pumps,timers,etc. To this end, I found that the Autopots (The newer MKII valve ones) work very well. You don't have to purchase the entire Autopot setup if you don't want. You can get just the SmartValve. This will work more or less like a Flood/Drain setup.
The same principle applies in that you only measure your nutrients once..and pH once. After you get a feel for your plants...and how they react to your nutrients and ppm, you may want to venture into the more complex methods of Hydro.
Just my 2 cents. I hope this helps any newcomers out there who are a bit confused by Hydro Or struggling with DWC issues...or any old timers who want to go back to a simpler setup.
Good luck and happy growing!!!
I often see DWC (Deep Water Culture,Bio Buckets, Bubble Buckets..etc.) recommended as one of the easier methods to get started in Hydro. In all honesty, I feel it isn't. Let me explain...
The most common problems I see surrounding DWC are temp issues. Staving off root rot with a warm reservoir is a futile effort. In some cases it requires adding "beneficial bacteria", reservoir chillers, frequent reservoir changes, and possibly all kinds of other gadgets.
You also have...pH fluctuations, drifting ppm, all kinds of other things. To those who have been in hydro for a while, these are easily remedied...but to newcomers, it can be a bit overwhelming...especially combined with the panic that their plant is dieing..leaves curling..etc. (At least it was for me...I am big enough to admit that)
Suddenly the DWC doesn't sound as easy. Why is this method recommended initially? I have no idea. But the easiest method I have seen to date is the "Hempy" Bucket. You get great yields...the transition from soil to hydro is more intuitive. You gradually learn about adjusting pH and PPM. Because you prepare your nutrient solution in batches, you eliminate a lot of issues that plague new hydroponic enthusiasts.
No recirculating nutrients means no pH or PPM drifting. pH is set to slightly more acidic than soil (6.0-6.2) and life is good. You can then spend more time learning about Hydro and less time tending to a sick plant.
The creation of the Hempy Bucket is rather easy. It includes using a bucket no larger than 3 Gallons. A hole roughly the size of 1/2 inch is drilled approx 2 inches up from the bottom. This is a temporary reservoir. That hole prevents you from over watering. You can use several different combinations of inert media ranging from coco coir to straight perlite...and anything in between. (The standard is 2/3 perlite 1/3 vermiculite)
The watering frequency will be determined by the media you select. Using the standard media, you will water once with nutrient solution every 2-3 days. If you notice signs of over watering, then increase the time between waterings.
As you progress, you may want either something a bit more automated but with less hassles of pumps,timers,etc. To this end, I found that the Autopots (The newer MKII valve ones) work very well. You don't have to purchase the entire Autopot setup if you don't want. You can get just the SmartValve. This will work more or less like a Flood/Drain setup.
The same principle applies in that you only measure your nutrients once..and pH once. After you get a feel for your plants...and how they react to your nutrients and ppm, you may want to venture into the more complex methods of Hydro.
Just my 2 cents. I hope this helps any newcomers out there who are a bit confused by Hydro Or struggling with DWC issues...or any old timers who want to go back to a simpler setup.
Good luck and happy growing!!!
