Humboldt Nutrients

Organicuz

Member
Hello everyone!!

So I've seen a few threads of fellow confused RIUers and what seems to be the recurring question is on Humboldt Nutrients' organic soil line... Question being: Are you supposed to use both myco maximum and myco madness or one or the other? Well I'd just like to clear it up for everyone and let you guys know you ARE supposed to use both.

Any doubts/concerns? Let me know.

Peace!
-OC
 

indiapale

Member
Why use either one? I looked at Humbolts feeding chart. Their Premium Two part program has you using fifteen different products. What a joke. I can't beleive the amount of nute companies out there selling incomplete nutrients and then charging people more for overpriced watered down bottles of supplements.

Humbolt, Advanced, Botanicare, etc... They all are overhyped and overpriced. If you want to grow organic in soil why not just get some manure, worm castings, guano, etc... Mix it all together with your soil and call it a day. Water when needed.
 

patlpp

New Member
Why use either one? I looked at Humbolts feeding chart. Their Premium Two part program has you using fifteen different products. What a joke. I can't beleive the amount of nute companies out there selling incomplete nutrients and then charging people more for overpriced watered down bottles of supplements.

Humbolt, Advanced, Botanicare, etc... They all are overhyped and overpriced. If you want to grow organic in soil why not just get some manure, worm castings, guano, etc... Mix it all together with your soil and call it a day. Water when needed.
You forgot fish ass and dolomite. Done with the rant? To be more irritating , next time add Sheeple and KISS. I'm waiting for the OP to state why 2 of the same products are needed together.
 

Organicuz

Member
Well for starters I will say using either one will work, but if you look at the ingredients, they're different! Myco maximum has humic acid, and madness has the same stuff as maximum minus the humic acid, but madness includes many more things. The recommended chart they give you is for best results so they would put them both on the chart to be measured and used as so.

As for Indiapale, people like feeding with liquid nutes... Also, I know the big hype right now is to use some super soil recipe and go that route and I've seen a lot of evidence backing it. Doesn't mean nutrients wont work just as well. It also doesn't mean we dont use great soil as HN recommends their soil which "This product is a blend of 20-25% Canadian Sphagnum peat moss, processed softwood bark, coconut coir, perlite, earthworm castings, compost, dolomite lime, fish meal, soybean meal, bat guano, kelp meal and organic wetting agent (Yucca extract)." I would think a mix of both feeding styles could potentially be better wouldn't you?

Peace,
OC
 

xxEMOxx

Well-Known Member
Humboldt Nutrients not Humboldt County's Own ( snow storm ultra, gravity, etc. ) is hype..... I dare to say moreso then Advanced!!!

They where one of the first lines I tried running when I got back into growing and all the new "medical grade" stuff was coming out. They had pretty bottles, nice nice artwork, and ok descriptions of what they where and used for. Sadly the line sucked for me.... smelled like goat ass rotting and the only advice tech support kept telling me was use more hydro honey it will mask the smell. As I went into more "cannabis gardening research" thinking there was something about growing bud that made it any different then all the other veggie gardens and such I have done over my years I learn something..... they are all plants... some have slightly different requirements generally based on region they originate from but they are all very similar in needs.

SO all this "cannabis/medical grade" stuff I started the see and learn is hype. As another poster stated above there are 15 different products the feed chart says to run!!! FIFTEEN!!!!!! They are making incomplete lines and overlapping lines in order for you need everything or you end up with defiecenies and holes in your nute regiment because they make it incomplete for profit reasons.

I run 5 items total well 8 if you count the changing of bottles for the CNS-17 when it comes to my "medical garden". 3 of these are only used at transplant and go directly in the soil.... 3 are the different stages of CNS-17 and I am also including my medium.

There are even simpler things like Dyna-Gro which would be 5 parts total including medium...... I use what works for me....

In my organics I am currently running a just add water mix. Don't get me wrong originally I had to buy like 10-12 boxes/bags to get all the stuff I needed/wanted for my mix but it was still cheaper then the 15 bottles of "voodoo juice" and lasts sooo much longer......


Humboldt Nutrients SOILS BROKEN DOWN:
"This product is a blend of 20-25% Canadian Sphagnum peat moss, processed softwood bark, coconut coir, perlite, earthworm castings, compost, dolomite lime, fish meal, soybean meal, bat guano, kelp meal and organic wetting agent (Yucca extract)."

Peat Moss:
Stripped mined in tundra/sub-artic and forest bogs in Canada and such, horrid for the land takes 1000's of years to grow back. Saturation rate sucks generally required a surfactant to saturate even to an acceptable rate. See Yucca Extract*

Processed Softwood Bark:
Pine, Alder, and etc.... BASICALLY THIS IS JUST FILLER!!! and worse yet its the second ingredient in the stuff.

COCO Coir:
Good solid stuff, has a nice good air/water ratio and a good saturation rate nearly 20x its weight in water.

Perlite:
Ok stuff, nice air/water ratio... poor sat. rate but does help with drainage and compaction issues which with peat and bark could become problems.

EWC:
GREAT STUFF has many mircos, helps rhizo life, and etc. mild source of N as well.

Compost:
well since they don't specific this could be anything..... some composts also have compactionclaying issues which can cause rooting problems, burns and poor homogenous medium mix. Which when combined with peat can cause drainage/wetting issues, "leak/drain" channels in the pots which prevent full saturation and nutrient distribution. Dolomite lime: A PH buffer... this is nice and will help prevent variations/spikes in ph levels due to different stages in the feed chart and as mircobe life breaks stuff down
Fish meal:
Source of N and some P and K can also help feed mircboes
Soybean meal:
Source of N and some hormones as well as some amino acids as well due to protein content.
Bat guano:Unlisted but depending on type, diet, and region the bats are from can contain N, P, K, or a Ratio of any of the 3 and numerous micros as well.
Kelp meal: has hormones, helps microbe life, can help with flowering due to hormones contained.... Type of kelp again unlisted and also one of the last ingredients.
Organic wetting agent (Yucca extract)
: This is used as stated as a wetting agent, this is something which is used to break the surface tension of the water in order to help saturation of the medium. Due to excessive contents of Peat Moss and Softwood filler this is necessary to help them reach an acceptable level of water saturation in order to be used as potting mix.


Do not get me wrong I am not saying this stuff is awful or crap as its an ok premium potting mix and in IHMO no better then Miracle Grow Organic or Black Gold but for the price and the stuff its made out there is much better out there, and also much better can be made that do not require a large list of items in order to run a complete "feed chart". Also you can make your own mix, buy a different mix, or mix and match to your liking for alot less and alot more complete as well. It sure does come in a pretty bag though :)
 

Organicuz

Member
All great points, and would be greater had I been promoting HN's nutrient line. However, that's not the case. Anyways, if anyone is attempting to use these nutes I hope this helped, peace!
 

farmersmurf

Active Member
Hello op. Im afraid I have a question also. But to be respectful I want to know if its ok to ask on your thread? I'm interested in getting some humboldt enhancers for the summer time. (prep,prep,prep!!!) preparation etc. anyways just let me know and I wont hijack your thread im sure you wont feel that way lol its a simple question.. anyways sorry I am of no help I never used it before. But im sure your buying a name if nothing else. But the story of some of it being made in a tractor shed does sound convincing especially if you've seen humboldt crop vids on u2be. (youtube). ok op well good luck! if I find something i'll be sure to post it for ya!:cool:
 

farmersmurf

Active Member
okeeeee' well imma ask cause I dont wanna start a bs thread lmao.. I was reading the flower hardner enhancer from humboldt... It says one tsp. into 5g's of water.. how would you split that into one gallon? I want to buy this for my bro this summer but as long as I can eliminate phone calls at odd hours of the night I want to be able to explain it to him lmao.
 

thecatsmeow

Member
I accidentally picked up an 8 oz container of Myco Maximum the other day instead of Myco Madness. Is it possible to use Myco Maximum in a tea, or should I pick up Myco Madness, which is supposedly a soluble powder?
 

MyGTO2007

Well-Known Member
what a bunch of fucking haters...Ive been using Humboldt Nutrients since 08.. have had such good results from them had the company themselves contact me...so before you talk shit about a product use it!
 

MyGTO2007

Well-Known Member
I accidentally picked up an 8 oz container of Myco Maximum the other day instead of Myco Madness. Is it possible to use Myco Maximum in a tea, or should I pick up Myco Madness, which is supposedly a soluble powder?
Madness is more Soluble
 
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