How do u make

Hot pepper spray or garlic spray for caterpillars

You boil the ingredients and use cheese cloth to filter out anything big enough to clog your sprayer. IMO they don't work as good as soap and water. Oils like neem, sesame, etc also work good, but they need to be thinned with soap & water, and applied early in the morning or at night, because the sun (or lights) can cause it to burn your plants.

These are all mostly for small pests like flies and aphids. Caterpillars and grass hoppers are harder to kill and are best hand picked off or knocked off using a hose with a good jet spray attachment.

i tried habeneros boile up for spider mites on my pepper plant one time and it did nothing. i got some in my eye and that was terrible!!

Ok thnk u heard some one on here say it wrks.....geuss I won't try it

BT spray.. its a natural bacteria that wrecks their guts.

sorry guys you are not suppose to boil the habaneros mixture, you are suppose to have on simmer for like 20 minutes(find the actual recipe for the right time) boiling kills the active ingredient. I think you are suppose to have it on the lowest heat you can set your stove's element and when the steam sting your eyes its ready, filter and dilute (again I dont remember the ratio but there is a thread on here that shows how to) good luck

I use garlic crusher to grind/crush the habaneros pepper, the seeds and everything goes in there

Thnks everyone .....and Whts the best organic product on the market

I grow outside, so I hate garlic, because it attracts grass hoppers, which are way harder to deal with then aphids or mites. If you've seen my grow photos you know my property looks like a field. I've had to deal with ticks, aphids, mites, horn worms, moths, slugs, snails, gnats, grass hoppers, mice, etc. What works for is a good integrated pest management plan. I start off using food grade Diatomaceous Earth and soapy water. I'm not 100% organic, so I don't mind using Dawn dish soap instead of buying Yucca Extract as a surfactant or wetting agent.

For the most part, soapy water and DE is all I need. Other pests do come around, but as long as my plants are healthy they can dish it out, plus by not constantly spraying my plants, I allow natural predators to come in and keep populations under control. In fact, I'll often grow plants specifically to attract or act as a shelter for beneficial insects. Carrots and cat grass are really good for that.

Sometimes I do need to remove pests, so the first thing I usually turn to, especially early in the season, when temperatures are cool and it's rainy, is horticultural oils. Neem is a popular one, but I happen to like oils that contain 5% sesame oil or even Tea Tree Oil, but that's just personal preference. After a spray of oil, I'll go back to the soapy water and DE method. Sometimes I'll introduce lady bugs into the garden if their populations are low, but I haven't needed to do that in years.

Since oils only kill by suffocation and tend to evaporate within hours or days, they are extremely safe. However, sometimes I do need something that lasts a bit longer. That's when I have to really think about the next step. If its still early in the season and things are looking really bad (maybe because my neighbor isn't doing his job or the weather was just ripe for an infestation to sweep through) then I'll look into using Carbaryl (Sevin %5 dust as it's more commonly known). Carbaryl is very powerful, because it's a true poison, but yet it's still safe to use around pets and children. It's one of the few poisons that you can actually use in an organic settings, under certain restrictions. I often use it against grass hoppers, since that's about the only thing that kills them in large numbers. However, it's best to use carbaryl in traps or in very selective areas. Since it's so powerful, it can very easily wipe out all the good insects, which has been known to cause outbreaks of mites and aphids.

If using carbaryl isn't warranted, I'll go with a pyrethrins based insecticidal soap. Like oils, it only lasts a short time, but unlike oils, even when diluted, its still a very good insect repellent. Pyrethrins usually lasts a few days to a week and can be used much later in the season then carbaryl. Pyrethrins are one of the safest insecticides, but because it's so widely used (both in the garden, on pets for flea & ticks, and for humans to treat lice) many insects are becoming resistant to it. However, if you use it as part of your overall Pest Management Strategy then you shouldn't have to worry about this.

Again, rather then relying on one signal product to kill everything, you want to have a multiple 1-2-3 knockout approach. And most importantly, it's also important to remember that healthy plants are less likely to be damaged by insects. And most of the time, if you just leave your healthy plant alone, other insects will do the job for you. So don't freak out because you found a few holes in some random leaves. Freak out when the pests are in such numbers you can easily ID them from any angle of the plant and they actually causing a problem.

BT Safer Caterpillar Killer seems to work well on caterpillars. I'd also agree about a general multi-pronged effort to keep pests at bay. I'm mixing my soil with neem and karanja cake and hoping besides some nice nitrogen that I get some anti-pest benefit and I'm using Pro-tekt religiously which should help. I will spray neem oil during veg but am hesitant to spray during flower because I definitely don't want a neem oil taste in my smoke. Milk is good (and cheap!) for powdery mildew. I've also used some very low grade pyrethrin when I got spider mites although one other time, I was near harvest and had just gotten mites, so I just washed the plants off and harvested. I looked over the plants/buds very carefully after washing and I couldn't find a single mite;I'm sure one must have escaped but it really was effective just washing with a hose.

Thank you vin...that really helps and thanks to everyone else...I'm learning a lot