"High Lights" - high powered, CRI95 flowering boards made in Australia

Nizza

Nizza

Well-Known Member
about the yellow lights and repelling insects...
I did a bit of research and found the only reason they claim these lights repel insects is because the bugs simply cant see the yellow light. I couldn't see someone only using yellow lights to avoid insects in a grow

The yellow light is used for outdoor lighting to avoid stuff like mosquitos being attracted to it and doesnt repel insects, but it doesn't attract them
 
Alarmclock

Alarmclock

Well-Known Member
@Prawn Connery
Hey mate im a newbie to growing. Im starting with a double high light uv board, in a 4x4 tent, and im going to keep adding boards as i go along in time. My question is what would be the BEST material and profile to build a frame for my new high light boards. PLEASE I looked every where for an answer but cant find it. Any help would genuinely be appreciated. Thank You
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Alarmclock said:
@Prawn Connery
Hey mate im a newbie to growing. Im starting with a double high light uv board, in a 4x4 tent, and im going to keep adding boards as i go along in time. My question is what would be the BEST material and profile to build a frame for my new high light boards. PLEASE I looked every where for an answer but cant find it. Any help would genuinely be appreciated. Thank You
Click to expand...
I used 2mm alu t-channel for frame: if you use the lower bit of the T, not the "roof", as the bit supporting the heatsink and led then you get a bit that sticks down from the light so you can stand it on a flat surface without hurting the chips. T-channel (or do they call it t-slot?) Is also much more sturdy than angle/traditional L-channel.
2mm/ 3/16" should be enough, 1/8" is harder to drill thru. Ymmv
 
Grow Lights Australia

Grow Lights Australia

Well-Known Member
Alarmclock said:
@Prawn Connery
Hey mate im a newbie to growing. Im starting with a double high light uv board, in a 4x4 tent, and im going to keep adding boards as i go along in time. My question is what would be the BEST material and profile to build a frame for my new high light boards. PLEASE I looked every where for an answer but cant find it. Any help would genuinely be appreciated. Thank You
Click to expand...
I can answer this. Rocketsoul is right, you can use T-bar or L-bar aluminium extrusion, also known as "angle bar". Many hardware stores carry it as it is used to make window frames.

T-bar is stronger and we have used it in the past, but we now use L-bar for our assembled units as it does not need to support much weight.

We used to use 3mm angle, then 1.6mm T-bar, but now use 1.6mm angle as it is easier to drill and strong enough. The closer you mount the heatsinks, the lighter the frame material can be as there is less leverage on it to bend it. If you plan to use a large frame, then heavier material (3mm) or T-bar would be stronger and better.

We also face the angle down, just like @Rocket Soul suggested , so you can rest the LEDs on a table or floor when you are installing them without damaging the LEDs (actually, we have done it both ways).

Here are some examples:

WiringDoubleLightrear.jpg

Square Wired.jpg

Square Side.jpg

IMG_0891.JPG

IMG_0888.JPG
 
Alarmclock

Alarmclock

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
I used 2mm alu t-channel for frame: if you use the lower bit of the T, not the "roof", as the bit supporting the heatsink and led then you get a bit that sticks down from the light so you can stand it on a flat surface without hurting the chips. T-channel (or do they call it t-slot?) Is also much more sturdy than angle/traditional L-channel.
2mm/ 3/16" should be enough, 1/8" is harder to drill thru. Ymmv
Click to expand...
Yea thank you for speaking up. Grow lights australia also set me on the right path too. They have gone out of their way to help me as i stuffed my order up and they were more than happy to take the time and explain where i went wrong, anybody looking for quality lights, IN AUSTRALIA WITH GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE, GROW LIGHTS AUSTRALIA IS ALL YOU NEED.
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Grow Lights Australia said:
I can answer this. Rocketsoul is right, you can use T-bar or L-bar aluminium extrusion, also known as "angle bar". Many hardware stores carry it as it is used to make window frames.

T-bar is stronger and we have used it in the past, but we now use L-bar for our assembled units as it does not need to support much weight.

We used to use 3mm angle, then 1.6mm T-bar, but now use 1.6mm angle as it is easier to drill and strong enough. The closer you mount the heatsinks, the lighter the frame material can be as there is less leverage on it to bend it. If you plan to use a large frame, then heavier material (3mm) or T-bar would be stronger and better.

We also face the angle down, just like @Rocket Soul suggested , so you can rest the LEDs on a table or floor when you are installing them without damaging the LEDs (actually, we have done it both ways).

Here are some examples:

View attachment 4454084

View attachment 4454085

View attachment 4454086

View attachment 4454087
Click to expand...
Close but not the same: i use the lip facing down as fastner: that way i can put it chips down or up with no probs. Its more important when your fixtures are 3x4' large though ;) bitch to be turning over, all it does is go up and down
 
Grow Lights Australia

Grow Lights Australia

Well-Known Member
Yes, I know what you mean now: like a side-ways T

With the fixtures above, you can see the eye bolts stick up on the back to allow the fixture to be put down LEDs up or down.

I know that some heatsinks are fairly flimsy and the fins bend easily, but I'm not bragging when I say our heatsinks are pretty solid and it takes a lot to bend the fins.
 
S

sethimus

Well-Known Member
Grow Lights Australia said:
I can answer this. Rocketsoul is right, you can use T-bar or L-bar aluminium extrusion, also known as "angle bar". Many hardware stores carry it as it is used to make window frames.

T-bar is stronger and we have used it in the past, but we now use L-bar for our assembled units as it does not need to support much weight.

We used to use 3mm angle, then 1.6mm T-bar, but now use 1.6mm angle as it is easier to drill and strong enough. The closer you mount the heatsinks, the lighter the frame material can be as there is less leverage on it to bend it. If you plan to use a large frame, then heavier material (3mm) or T-bar would be stronger and better.

We also face the angle down, just like @Rocket Soul suggested , so you can rest the LEDs on a table or floor when you are installing them without damaging the LEDs (actually, we have done it both ways).

Here are some examples:

View attachment 4454084

View attachment 4454085

View attachment 4454086

View attachment 4454087

View attachment 4454088
Click to expand...
where do you ground the frame?
 
PSUAGRO.

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Grow Lights Australia said:
Thank you. There are also people in Australia who don't believe the science, even after what has happened. What can you really say to them?
Click to expand...
Tell them next fire season could be worse, that should wake them up.

We all have dumbass smokers who toss lit cigs and Farmers who fuck up controlled burns. What changed? Not the idiots, that's for sure

Good luck and be safe
 
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