High Brix Gardening: International AG Labs 30 Day Newsletter

Rayne

Rayne

Well-Known Member
For anyone who seeks more information from the quoted source. You will be asked to state what "Crop" you growing. Mention "Hops" or some other annual flower like "Catnip"
 
Richard Drysift

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Rayne said:
For anyone who is capable of understanding...I am just passing information along. Those who are secretly intrested will read the information and may seek more information from the quoted source.
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Been reading this for awhile... much of it pertains to outdoor fruit/veg grows but I thought the info is still relevant & helpful- especially the part about the difference between energy derived from compost and minerals... just a lot to go through... thanks for posting!
 
CaptainCAVEMAN

CaptainCAVEMAN

Well-Known Member
Rayne said:
For anyone who seeks more information from the quoted source. You will be asked to state what "Crop" you growing. Mention "Hops" or some other annual flower like "Catnip"
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This was a good read for me, thanks for posting.
However, in this day and age, if you think I'm going to pretend I want whatever you're selling to use for growing catnip you must be retarded.:wall:
 
Rayne

Rayne

Well-Known Member
For anyone that reads with the aim to comprehend what is being read and just for the sake of information. If anyone sends a soil sample for testing to the International AG Labs seeking their recommendations. If you mention you intend on growing Cannabis on the sheet of paper you fill out, they will reject you soil sample without remorse.

Until Cannabis is legal at the federal level for the United States of America, the International AG Labs will not help you. They do not care if Cannabis is legal for you to grow where you happen to live. Compared to the vast size of the agriculture industry and volume of samples they get on a regular basis, rejecting one sample for cannabis will not bother them.

Once again... I am just presenting (aka: sharing) the information I received from the 30 day newsletter I signed up for. If you like the information shared or not... that is nice. I do not care. My personal financial standing is not dependent upon you liking the information and seek more help from agricultural company.
 
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testiclees

testiclees

Well-Known Member
I enjoyed reading those messages last summer one day at a time. I use ial stuff and have had excellent results following recs from their soil testing and using their amendments and foliars.

Doc Bud from over on 420mag makes or at least made, his hi-brix kit w ial gear. Some of those kit gardens are impressive.
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
Doc Bud no longer sells his kit ?

I asked him once about his kit ,he felt I was trying to get over him on info & not buy his wares.

I was not intending to do that , but he got upset
 
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TeamSuperman

TeamSuperman

Member
Rayne said:
Day 15: Questions and Answers

Here is another example: A grower with a field of canning tomatoes sought to maximize his harvest of tomatoes all at picking time. To do this he kept his soil on the growth side longer by using growth energy products such as calcium nitrate and potassium nitrate. The result were large tomato plants and thick stalks but not a tomato anywhere. The canning company field rep was getting worried.

At the right time the farmer switched his soil from growth to reproductive and turned his field yellow with blossoms overnight. How did he do this? By using reproductive fertilizers and foliar sprays. These caused the soil and plants to switch from growth to reproductive. How can this be done? Simple - broadcast some ammonium sulfate, 11-52-0 or urea. Then spray the plants with a dilute reproductive spray made from household ammonia, phosphoric acid, vinegar etc. The broadcast switches the soil while the foliar spray switched the plants.

Once a large bunch of tomatoes were set and beginning to develop, the farmer switched back to growth energy dominance. Why? Because growth energy is also bulking energy. Now the farmer wanted to size up the tomatoes. By keeping growth energy dominant he was able to stop new blossoms from developing. What was the end result? A large harvest of tomatoes all ripening at nearly the same time.
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Has anyone tried applying this method to yield? I can certainly throw some urea in my soil and spray some ammonia dilute on my leaves when I flip. Can I also switch back to growth fertilizers once my colas form? Could this be a key to not getting popcorn?
 
VTMi'kmaq

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
Richard Drysift said:
Been reading this for awhile... much of it pertains to outdoor fruit/veg grows but I thought the info is still relevant & helpful- especially the part about the difference between energy derived from compost and minerals... just a lot to go through... thanks for posting!
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Alot to go through is right.....i'll have to read it multiple times no doubt.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
VTMi'kmaq said:
Alot to go through is right.....i'll have to read it multiple times no doubt.
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my issue is that simply foliar spraying is a reaaaaally inferior way to give it macronutrients, you CANNOT supply a plant with enough nutrients that way, not to mention the fact that although some nutrients are mobile, some aren't, a good amount are slow to be mobile.
the most mobile nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and magnesium, those are needed in WAY too large of amounts to be supplied to the leaves.
What I am saying, is that in order for foliar feeding to be useful, your soil has to be deficient in something.
in other words, like always, build the soil right, and virtually not much past that is needed.
 
TeamSuperman

TeamSuperman

Member
greasemonkeymann said:
my issue is that simply foliar spraying is a reaaaaally inferior way to give it macronutrients, you CANNOT supply a plant with enough nutrients that way, not to mention the fact that although some nutrients are mobile, some aren't, a good amount are slow to be mobile.
the most mobile nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and magnesium, those are needed in WAY too large of amounts to be supplied to the leaves.
What I am saying, is that in order for foliar feeding to be useful, your soil has to be deficient in something.
in other words, like always, build the soil right, and virtually not much past that is needed.
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I foliar spray with compost tea for the macrobiotics, and spray with diluted phosphoric acid when I broadcast urea after their flush before flip. I mean there's certainly valid applications for foliar feeding.
 
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