Here to help... Ask me anything
- Thread starter Masterofgenetics
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Masterofgenetics
New Member
How many times have you grown before?
Masterofgenetics
New Member
Well dwc is kinda of bitch..
You really need a lot of equipment for ec testing and ph..
And even PPM meter which I really need to buy myself..
Also dwc has to be regulated, Im talking about water temps..
In the summer if you live in the south you need a water chiller if your really trying to make something..
I want to explain that soil can produce Hydro quality buds..with alot less problems..Yeah it may take a little longer..
But quality comes with genetics not setup..
I would highly suggest starting with coco or a good medium...
Even pure perlite can toss out some incredible results..
If you just really want hydro you need a little research and a lot of money..
You really need a lot of equipment for ec testing and ph..
And even PPM meter which I really need to buy myself..
Also dwc has to be regulated, Im talking about water temps..
In the summer if you live in the south you need a water chiller if your really trying to make something..
I want to explain that soil can produce Hydro quality buds..with alot less problems..Yeah it may take a little longer..
But quality comes with genetics not setup..
I would highly suggest starting with coco or a good medium...
Even pure perlite can toss out some incredible results..
If you just really want hydro you need a little research and a lot of money..
houstonblowskush
Well-Known Member
does it work? then yes its effective...are there better methods...maybe do some research
choose a lower bud paint some pollen on the bud/s of choic(be careful not to get that stuff everywhere cuz its easy to blow around.....after that spray down your whole plant with water except the buds u pollinted...try and cover the buds with plastic and some bread ties so the pollen doesnt go very where for about a week...youll notice the hairs turn brown thats who u know its been pollinated
Masterofgenetics
New Member
Hum never heard covering them with plastic..
But once I finally get a male I like I am just going to chop it down after I take cuts from it, and just wave it around like a magical wand..
I would throw away a crop for some new genetics of my own...
Or grow male in different room then just give up one girl and use that for seeds..
The only problem with just using bottom buds is that you usually get premature seeds because they don't get big enough, unless you wait forever for them to finish..
But you could cut the tops then leave the bottoms to catch up still wasted time in the flower room
But good input
But once I finally get a male I like I am just going to chop it down after I take cuts from it, and just wave it around like a magical wand..
I would throw away a crop for some new genetics of my own...
Or grow male in different room then just give up one girl and use that for seeds..
The only problem with just using bottom buds is that you usually get premature seeds because they don't get big enough, unless you wait forever for them to finish..
But you could cut the tops then leave the bottoms to catch up still wasted time in the flower room
But good input
Masterofgenetics
New Member
alright ya'll I have a question I want to grow a outdoor Dwc 5 gallon bucket, with some vegatable or flower..
I have a bunch of seeds to chose from including Giant sunflowers, squash, Hybrid beef master tomatoes..
damn the list goes on... What would be awesome to throw in outdoor Dwc?
Some said it would be impossible but I think I got it cover,,,
I have a bunch of seeds to chose from including Giant sunflowers, squash, Hybrid beef master tomatoes..
damn the list goes on... What would be awesome to throw in outdoor Dwc?
Some said it would be impossible but I think I got it cover,,,
LUDACRIS
New Member
here is one for you.
this sprouted on the 7th of march and has been growing 24/0 from sprout under a 400w h.p.s.(GROWLUX LAMP). its planted in 60% top soil and 40% perlite.it had no nutes for the first 2 weeks then i started with 1/3 strength nutes(n.p.k. 24-8-16) due to their quick development and have only fed them once untill today.i transplanted all my plants last night and watered/fed them again today with 1/4 strength nutes to be safe.
the ph of my top soil is 6.5 but the water i used with my feed today had a ph of 7.8 so i dont undersand why 1hr after watering i tested my moist medium with my ph tester and it shows a ph of 6.3???????.
i thought soil with a ph of 6.5 after watering with water thats 7.8 ph should have lifted my soil reading closer to 7.0 ph??????.
the lower leaves are yellow showing a nitro defficiency but i think i am playing it safe with the nutes due to the age of the plant and would expect to see dark green if i had over done it on the nitrogen.could the cause of the yellow lower leaves just be normal(dyeing off) as it seems a lot of the plants feed is going into the new growth witch is nice and healthy and growing extremely fast and bushy as apposed to other parts of the plant(i.e height).
(new nodes just seem to keep appearing and growing daily).
have a look at the pics(all the same plant) and let me know what you think.
they are also very bushy with about 7mm between the nodes.i take it its because they are on 24/0 and the lamp maybe a bit close?????.
THANKS.
this sprouted on the 7th of march and has been growing 24/0 from sprout under a 400w h.p.s.(GROWLUX LAMP). its planted in 60% top soil and 40% perlite.it had no nutes for the first 2 weeks then i started with 1/3 strength nutes(n.p.k. 24-8-16) due to their quick development and have only fed them once untill today.i transplanted all my plants last night and watered/fed them again today with 1/4 strength nutes to be safe.
the ph of my top soil is 6.5 but the water i used with my feed today had a ph of 7.8 so i dont undersand why 1hr after watering i tested my moist medium with my ph tester and it shows a ph of 6.3???????.
i thought soil with a ph of 6.5 after watering with water thats 7.8 ph should have lifted my soil reading closer to 7.0 ph??????.
the lower leaves are yellow showing a nitro defficiency but i think i am playing it safe with the nutes due to the age of the plant and would expect to see dark green if i had over done it on the nitrogen.could the cause of the yellow lower leaves just be normal(dyeing off) as it seems a lot of the plants feed is going into the new growth witch is nice and healthy and growing extremely fast and bushy as apposed to other parts of the plant(i.e height).
(new nodes just seem to keep appearing and growing daily).
have a look at the pics(all the same plant) and let me know what you think.
they are also very bushy with about 7mm between the nodes.i take it its because they are on 24/0 and the lamp maybe a bit close?????.
THANKS.
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Masterofgenetics
New Member
I hate to tell you but your Ph meter is trash, as are your nutes..
The stick meters are not that percise..If you have to use it last resort don't ever leave it in your soil..
Also let's say your tap water is at 8, so Lets say your using 5 gallons of water I will usually almost every time be safe adding 60 ml of apple cider vingear to adjust it wher I need it to be 6.2 or so...
But you really need to test your run off, which is the water that runs out of the bottom.
General hydroponics makes a cheap ph tester kit goolge it you'll find it..
And yeah you water and run off will differ,
Second your mircale garden food is almost all salt...
Your ph will be great changed after you put it in your water
The stick meters are not that percise..If you have to use it last resort don't ever leave it in your soil..
Also let's say your tap water is at 8, so Lets say your using 5 gallons of water I will usually almost every time be safe adding 60 ml of apple cider vingear to adjust it wher I need it to be 6.2 or so...
But you really need to test your run off, which is the water that runs out of the bottom.
General hydroponics makes a cheap ph tester kit goolge it you'll find it..
And yeah you water and run off will differ,
Second your mircale garden food is almost all salt...
Your ph will be great changed after you put it in your water
Masterofgenetics
New Member
You will usually lose those bottom leaves after they start taking off other than that your plants look healthy..
If you never checked your ph you can still grow some dank...
Even without fert you can still have some dank..
Id rather use no nutes then mircale grow in my mari,
I use for my garden though because it's cheap..
And Im not going to smoke my sunflowers
If you never checked your ph you can still grow some dank...
Even without fert you can still have some dank..
Id rather use no nutes then mircale grow in my mari,
I use for my garden though because it's cheap..
And Im not going to smoke my sunflowers
LUDACRIS
New Member
pics....................
what n.p.k nutes do you recommend for vegging or is it wise to change nutes at this stage or keep with it untill i switch to my organic flowering nutes(not trash).
https://www.rollitup.org/members/ludacris-albums-96-picture20729-img-0012.jpg
what n.p.k nutes do you recommend for vegging or is it wise to change nutes at this stage or keep with it untill i switch to my organic flowering nutes(not trash).
https://www.rollitup.org/members/ludacris-albums-96-picture20729-img-0012.jpg
houstonblowskush
Well-Known Member
Organic im an earth juice fan because it works for me (Id add some earth worm castings to the soil its a lil weak in the N area)
Synthetic Fox Farms grow big. It will burn ya shit up so be ez with it
these are just opinions find what works 4 u better
Masterofgenetics
New Member
Yeah houston knows his sh*t..
I started off using alaska fish elmusion.I think it's 5-1-1 smell's ungodly horrible. But plants seem to respond very well to it.. And my old cat would fiend for it..Idk cats and fish you know..
But my cat had flipped out and split a bottle of it on a plant that was in 15 gallons of coco and it didn't burn at all..
But it smells really bad.. thats the only problem..
I started off using alaska fish elmusion.I think it's 5-1-1 smell's ungodly horrible. But plants seem to respond very well to it.. And my old cat would fiend for it..Idk cats and fish you know..
But my cat had flipped out and split a bottle of it on a plant that was in 15 gallons of coco and it didn't burn at all..
But it smells really bad.. thats the only problem..
LUDACRIS
New Member
I hate to tell you but your Ph meter is trash, as are your nutes..
The stick meters are not that percise..If you have to use it last resort don't ever leave it in your soil..
Also let's say your tap water is at 8, so Lets say your using 5 gallons of water I will usually almost every time be safe adding 60 ml of apple cider vingear to adjust it wher I need it to be 6.2 or so...
But you really need to test your run off, which is the water that runs out of the bottom.
General hydroponics makes a cheap ph tester kit goolge it you'll find it..
And yeah you water and run off will differ,
Second your mircale garden food is almost all salt...
Your ph will be great changed after you put it in your water.
i beg to differ about the nutes i believe the case is that lower leaves(yellowing) are following their correct path of dying as new growth spurts?????????.
would you agree or are you not sure????.
THANKS.
The stick meters are not that percise..If you have to use it last resort don't ever leave it in your soil..
Also let's say your tap water is at 8, so Lets say your using 5 gallons of water I will usually almost every time be safe adding 60 ml of apple cider vingear to adjust it wher I need it to be 6.2 or so...
But you really need to test your run off, which is the water that runs out of the bottom.
General hydroponics makes a cheap ph tester kit goolge it you'll find it..
And yeah you water and run off will differ,
Second your mircale garden food is almost all salt...
Your ph will be great changed after you put it in your water.
i beg to differ about the nutes i believe the case is that lower leaves(yellowing) are following their correct path of dying as new growth spurts?????????.
would you agree or are you not sure????.
THANKS.
LUDACRIS
New Member
are you saying my plants are sparce on nitro and to add some worm castings????? or are you reffering to your earth juice and your situation????.
i will be sticking with bio-bizz grow and bio-biz bloom(for flowering) as i have used it before and it went well.
LUDACRIS
New Member
ghosthorse
Active Member
Question I have clones couple months old growing in foxfarm soil in greenhouse. Will put out inMay, but they are developing a shiny bronzy colored spots on the larger, older leaves towards the middle of the leaves. Got any advice????? Thanx GH
Masterofgenetics
New Member
And they are in veg right.. No spots just in the middle?
Well kinda sound likes mold..
But not 100% sure..
Idk? do you have pics?
Well kinda sound likes mold..
But not 100% sure..
Idk? do you have pics?
Masterofgenetics
New Member
WHY USE SALT FOR FERTILIZER?
One of the myths that surround commercial fertilizers is that the salts they contain are harsh on the biology of the soil. The reality is that salt is essential to all of life. Either too much or too little can harm. Are fertilizers indeed too salty? Fertilizer salts form soluble ions in soil water. Increased concentration of ions increases osmotic pressure and decreases water potential, making it harder for plants to take up water. This is why plants affected by fertilizer burn look about the same as if they had been stricken by drought. They cant get the water, because theres too much salt in it.
Fertilizer doesnt have to burn, though. Its all a matter of dosage. Plants cant grow without salt, either. The nutrients they need are salts. The dissolved ions are exactly the form they take up. As long as the dosage is controlled, there is no harm applying a salt to the soil.
The kind of salt is important. Specific salt ions have greater effects than others. The ammonium ion in particular can release free ammonia, especially at higher soil pH. Ammonia moves directly into plant cells. High concentrations can prevent root growth and even kill seedlings. On the other hand, phosphate ions hardly pose a salt hazard at all, since they never get to high concentrations in soil water.
Salt is often associated with sodium, because common table salt is sodium chloride. Sodium ions can destroy soil structure and clog the flow of soil water. But theres hardly any sodium in most commercial fertilizers.
The chloride ion is one of the most soluble. Grapevines, woody trees, and many legumes are sensitive to it. Research in the southern states showed some soybean varieties to be sensitive to chloride. But research in many other places has found muriate of potash (potassium chloride) to be an effective source of potassium for soybeans grown in deficient soils. And crops like wheat and corn show great benefits from fertilizing with chloride.
Several fertilizers arent truly salts. Urea, for example, is a soluble substance that isnt a salt. Nevertheless, its solubility means it can have an osmotic effect, just like any other fertilizer. It also quickly decomposes to form a saltthe ammonium ion. Elemental sulfur is neither salt nor solublebut it oxides into sulfate, a salt.
Manures and composts contain inorganic salts, organic salts, and insoluble organic forms of nutrients. But their salt content per unit of nutrient may not differ much from fertilizer, since their nutrient content is a lot lower, and they contain salts not necessarily needed for the crop. Also, as they decompose, the nutrients turn into salts.
How to avoid salt injury? Guidelines for safe rates are specific for each crop and are based on distance from the seedling, soil texture, soil moisture content, and the specific ions in the nutrient source. For ammonium, soil pH is an additional consideration.
A high salt content is a consequence of a unique advantage commercial fertilizers possess. Using sources with concentrated soluble nutrients cuts transportation costsless fuel is wasted in transporting non-nutritive material. In order to utilize that advantage, commercial fertilizers need to be applied at judicious rates.
Why use salt for fertilizer? Because plants use salt for food.