My thoughts....
LIGHTS - I would not use MH for side lighting, I use 2ft T5's for side lighting. Here's your advantage of that in your set up. Instead of mounting them, I 2 magnets to the back, one on each end. Then you can move them anywhere at anytime in your tent and just put a piece of metal on the outside and they stick. ALSO, they are inexpensive and can be daisy chained, so you dont have to run wires from outlets to each light. I use those in conjunction with a 6 bulb T5 hanging fixture and I hang about 4" from plants. Its 4ft x 2ft and draws 220 watts and puts out 20,00 lumens. Bulbs can get warm and put off some heat but nothing like mh or HPS, so it aids in temp control, which as many know, can be a frustrating thing to get right in the begining, especially in a small area. Thos 150 watt CFL's can be used two, sinse you already have them. But your but you can see the differences in types of lighting. 2 CFLs which MUST be very close to the plants will be difficult to utilize in a large area, how many plands can you get them a few inches from? Also, your eating up 300 watts for 16,000 lumens...if you have the extra cash or possibly later an upgrade project, t5's take the cake in small are's, little heat, great lumen per watt and all color spectrems availible, though I just veg with them.
-note: I would use the LEDS as to experiment with, as in use them on a few plants and see if there is a difference, thus far , and I realize there is a bit of controversial data on these, we have a long way to go to get there. To get a LED to emit anything near MH or HPS runs about 1 million dollars a bulb, just to give you an idea on how much furthur they have to go with the technowledgy. If you were putting it in one of those little computer box setups and they were an inch from the plant, perhaps you can get satisfactory results. You CAN grow with them, but they must be nearly making contact with the plant. We have a way to go with them I get all excited thinking about it ove rthe next few years.
AREO SET UP - . These work well, but you will run into trouble if yo uhave any intention of growing the plants to maturity in the 318 unit. They are FAR to close together. I use the 66 lid and still do quite a bit of training so they get light. Save yourself some money down the line also, that motor for the pump is external, which is great, make sure some air is moving over it, as the plants grow it builds a bit of heat, and at more than $100, you dont want to burn it out early. Also consider res levels. When res is up to 15 gallons you have a DWC with the 6" nets, with the 3" your probably alright, but when its filled you can see only a little bit of the root is exposed to the actual misting. As they mature I like to lower it to 10 gallons so more of the root area gets that oxygen enriched nutrient solution. But at 10 gallons, watch for PH or TDS drift.
HEAT AND LIGHTS - You already have the 400 switchible, so obviously we'll be using that. But I would look to upgrade to a 600 HPS for the flower room and put the 400MH in the veg room, it cost money and we'll focus on what you have. Its just a thought.
Now design concepts : Will ned some info. You said 6" vortex and 6" can fan. Is the vortex the 200 whatever CFM or the HO 449 CFM? Its twice the area volume movement. Also, the can fan, what CFM?
Have you run any test on temps yet, like putting the 400W on in the room and measure temps? They are going to be rediculsly high, but will give you a base number at least. Run it for an hour or two and check temp. Leave it on then turn of the 6" fan, depending of what CFM you use you'll know what the fluxuation is. turn on the one fan and give it an hour , check temp, check temp again in half hour or hour, check until the temp stops droping. If its not low enough, put the other fan in there and measure.
Now, you didnt mention what you cdesign concept was. I would imagine one for flowering and one for vegging? If you have two tents that would probably be the best suggested, but you have one area 318 and a 3' flood.. so you only have enough grow units for one room at a time? Is that accurate? Or is your plan to put one unit it one room and another unit in another room?
Thus far I do not see having much heat issues, I do think you need more lighting, either but some t5's in the veg room and switch the HPS to the flower room, or for the bigggest pain in the ass but best results, find an easy way to take the light out of the flower room during the 12 off and put in the veg room for 12. just make sure you run your florescents in the veg room to stop triggering fowering when you put the light back in the flower room. Sounds like a total pain in the ass, but I did it once when I had two tents next to each other with a light mover. The light move was 4ft long if I remember and I mounted it to that the very end of the mover was about centered in each room. and then I put the plug for the mover on a timer and played with it so all it did really was move from one end to the other. I had to use a dual spectrum buble back then, they sell way better dual arching bulbs these days. I had altered the tent and added material so when the light moved to the next tent the material flapped closed. I had to play with it alot to get it to flap closed enough to not allow light in, yet still not fassen closed. The lights was turned off an hour before it would move, so I didnt have to worry about melting anything and started back up and hour later in the veg room, plenty of time to avoid hot popping the bulb. Crazy set up but I only had 1 1000 WAtt MH and didnt want to buy more lights (couldnt afford really) and just couldnt see not taking advantage of the huge lumens it put out. Anyway, that was my example.
Hope some of that helps.
