~~ Help Me Vent! ~~ stealth hid closet grow

ScottsBlown99

Well-Known Member
Ok so i'm going to be flowering in a few weeks, hopefully less. I'm thinking that i'll get a 600w hps cooltube (c'mon refund!) i'm also making my own carbon filter just like this one; International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums - DIY pro style carbon filter

For the fan(s) i'm going to try the stanley blower mod (google it if ignorant)

The closet will be closed off with mylar, so how can i keep the tube cool, the filter working, and keep fresh air coming in? my only exhaust point will be out of a 4in hole in ceiling.. :wall:

this is a general layout of the closet 9'x3.5'x7.5', a little outdated cause i change my mind alot, but you'll get the idea


journal is up to date
 

justatoker

New Member
this is a general layout of the closet 9'x3.5'x7.5', a little outdated cause i change my mind alot, but you'll get the idea

dude. thats not a closet, thats a freaking room.. Ive NEVER seen a closet that freaking big.

Look, Cooltubes are a waste of money and they dont work as well as a good exhaust system. just make sure you have enough exhaust to exchange the air in your room in aobut 1 minute. Also make sure your exhaust to intake ratio is 2/1 * twice as much exhaust as intake ) and you will be good to go.. Just get the warm air into the attic or w/e and you'll be fine.I was going to buy a cooltube but after a ton of research I decided that they were not worth it.. A few reasons why >

" 8% is a minimum light loss through glass transmission, but thats for aircooled hoods Not cooltubes. Only with perfectly clean and flat glass. As soon as the glass gets dusty (happens within a few weeks) then you start to lose even more 10-15% + the longer you forget to clean it the worse it gets. Most people clean their glass once a grow tops, and some don't even do that. By the time they hit flowering they're losing upwards of 10-15%

Cooltubes are even worse. Much worse. Especially ones that incorporate a reflector on the outside of the cooltube. Because not only is your light transferring through curved glass which further reduces light transmisson over flat glass, frequently the 50% of your light it thats hitting the reflector has to transfer through the glass 3x... Any decent professionally built cool-tube will include the reflector on the inside of the glass, eliminating part of the problem. But I've seen many many DIY cooltubes with reflectors on the outside of the glass.
Major light loss, possibly upwards of even 20% Or god forbid, no reflector at all,in which case your looking at a loss of 30% or more."


If you think you need a cooltube, or your having problems with temps, you really just don't have enough ventilation. a 2:1 ratio of lighting wattage to ventilation CFM will keep temperatures a few degrees above intake without the use of aircooling. You can keep canopy temperatures the same with ample interior fans blowing directly on the bulb. Its a pretty common misconception that cooltubes and aircooled hoods improve yield by allowing you to get closer to the canopy. This is almost never the case. Sure the inverse square law holds its ground. But getting closer to the canopy means most of your light is concentrated on the tops directly underneath the bulb, overpowering them and wasting it. Possibly even bleaching them. Its much better to have your bulb slightly higher up and get a much larger footprint and even distribution across the entire canopy, rather than blasting the plants directly below the bulb.

The only time i'd reccomend using an aircooled hood (note: I would never recommend a cooltube because of the curved glass, unless you feel like paying for special reflectorized bulbs) is when the loud ventilation causes a major security concern and all options for quieting it have been exhausted. Aircooled hoods do allow you to run less fans. Other than that, save your dough you were planning on spending on that cooltube and spend it on better ventilation."



PS - thats a big ass closet man lol.. Ive heard of "walk in" closets, but yours sounds like a "sleep in" closet lol.
 

Green36

Active Member
Hey in the same canoe ... try opening window for short intervals during day and circulate with fan ....
 

ScottsBlown99

Well-Known Member
How ya plan on cooling those lights? They put out a lot of heat.
That's what i need help with!

Suppose I should have said i'm not worried about the MH light/side right now.
I won't be using that side of the closet until i start cloning, and even then the clones will be under FLs for awhile. eventually they will be separated so there will be no light leaking
 

justatoker

New Member
all you need is one good high cfm 6'' for exhaust and a simple 120mm pc fan is good enough for intake.. Just put an extra intake hole the same size as the one w/ the 120m fan and just let it be a passive intake. And at least 2 fans in your grow room. Walmart sells 10.00 box fans thats about 9''.. get one to blow upward toward/on the light and one to blow across the canopy. Thats all you will need trust me. cooltubes are more hype than help.
 

bobilu

Well-Known Member
dude. thats not a closet, thats a freaking room.. Ive NEVER seen a closet that freaking big.

Look, Cooltubes are a waste of money and they dont work as well as a good exhaust system. just make sure you have enough exhaust to exchange the air in your room in aobut 1 minute. Also make sure your exhaust to intake ratio is 2/1 * twice as much exhaust as intake ) and you will be good to go.. Just get the warm air into the attic or w/e and you'll be fine.I was going to buy a cooltube but after a ton of research I decided that they were not worth it.. A few reasons why >

" 8% is a minimum light loss through glass transmission, but thats for aircooled hoods Not cooltubes. Only with perfectly clean and flat glass. As soon as the glass gets dusty (happens within a few weeks) then you start to lose even more 10-15% + the longer you forget to clean it the worse it gets. Most people clean their glass once a grow tops, and some don't even do that. By the time they hit flowering they're losing upwards of 10-15%

Cooltubes are even worse. Much worse. Especially ones that incorporate a reflector on the outside of the cooltube. Because not only is your light transferring through curved glass which further reduces light transmisson over flat glass, frequently the 50% of your light it thats hitting the reflector has to transfer through the glass 3x... Any decent professionally built cool-tube will include the reflector on the inside of the glass, eliminating part of the problem. But I've seen many many DIY cooltubes with reflectors on the outside of the glass.
Major light loss, possibly upwards of even 20% Or god forbid, no reflector at all,in which case your looking at a loss of 30% or more."


If you think you need a cooltube, or your having problems with temps, you really just don't have enough ventilation. a 2:1 ratio of lighting wattage to ventilation CFM will keep temperatures a few degrees above intake without the use of aircooling. You can keep canopy temperatures the same with ample interior fans blowing directly on the bulb. Its a pretty common misconception that cooltubes and aircooled hoods improve yield by allowing you to get closer to the canopy. This is almost never the case. Sure the inverse square law holds its ground. But getting closer to the canopy means most of your light is concentrated on the tops directly underneath the bulb, overpowering them and wasting it. Possibly even bleaching them. Its much better to have your bulb slightly higher up and get a much larger footprint and even distribution across the entire canopy, rather than blasting the plants directly below the bulb.

The only time i'd reccomend using an aircooled hood (note: I would never recommend a cooltube because of the curved glass, unless you feel like paying for special reflectorized bulbs) is when the loud ventilation causes a major security concern and all options for quieting it have been exhausted. Aircooled hoods do allow you to run less fans. Other than that, save your dough you were planning on spending on that cooltube and spend it on better ventilation."



PS - thats a big ass closet man lol.. Ive heard of "walk in" closets, but yours sounds like a "sleep in" closet lol.

I kinda agree with you justatoker, for most of your smaller grow rooms. The thing I don't understand is when you start having 1000.s of watt lights going how much outside air do you need. With all the heat that the mh/hps put out, how do you cool all the air inside the room. All a fan does is blow the hot air around. I myself also have an entire room for my grow ops. I don't see how I can cool all that space with a few fans or have to have my a/c on all the time. In a month or two the outside air temps are going up 20 or 30 degrees. Without heating up the room from your light would'nt it be easyer to keep your space at a constant temp
 

ScottsBlown99

Well-Known Member
thanks guys!

So should i go with a bat-wing type reflector and just have a fan blowing on it all the time? I was thinking i'd need a sealed reflector with ducting flanges (not the cooltube). I just don't know how to run the ducting to cool the lights, bring in fresh air, and exhaust the 'room'. Heck I dunno how to use the filter properly..
 

bobilu

Well-Known Member
most of your newer Hid systems come with a digital ballast. They put out less heat and you can use Mh & Hps bulbs. Just look real close at the details.
 

Lennard

Well-Known Member
I would turbo charge the fresh air intake cause I dont see C02 bottles in your autocad lol nice diagram.
 
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