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HELP! Jack Herer in Week 9 of Flowering Turning Yellow

Discussion in 'General Marijuana Growing' started by fendz457, Jan 30, 2013.


    fendz457 Member

    Hello everyone,

    First a little background... This is my 2nd hydro grow and things were going very smoothly up until a few weeks ago. I have 1 Jack Herer and 1 LSD in Week 9 of flowering. My setup is a circulating hydro drip system, been using General Hydroponics Flora Series nutrients (and did my first time with good results). Both the Jack and the LSD are fed from the same nutrient reservoir, which complicates things a bit.

    In any case, these buds were looking really good when I started to notice something that people called "Nitrogen claw", where the leaves become crispy and curl downward. So I backed off the Nutrients in Week 7 (I had been pushing over 2000 ppm because the plant seemed to be thriving on it, which in all honesty makes me think this could be a burn issue). Been running on 1200-1400 ppm for the last few weeks and am current scaling down to <1000 ppm. In any case, the problem just keeps getting worse. Now the top buds are turning a yellowish, deadish color and crisping up a bit as well. Buds toward the bottom are still doing alright. See the pictures.

    I would totally just flush this plant and harvest, but it's on the same reservoir system as an LSD strain, which is absolutely dominating. I'm just waiting for a few amber trichomes there and I'll harvest the thing.

    Should I just cut the Jack Herer down without flushing? Or should I wait it out and flush it along with the LSD and harvest all I can at that point?

    Thanks in advance for any help!

    JH.broadview.jpg JH.drytopbud.jpg JH.lowerbud.jpg LSD.stalk.jpg LSD.stalk2.jpg

    sacpirate Active Member

    flush and harvest before it gets worse.

    fendz457 Member

    sacpirate, Flush both plants?
    Canna Connoiseur

    Canna Connoiseur Active Member

    It looks like the ones that are burned are ruined though. No need to harvest that crap. If you want to still do that you can flush the shitty ones and harvest

    sacpirate Active Member

    no only the shitty sick one bro. its a bit more labor intensive but u can do it. u gotta first remove top feed drip line and raise the plant off the tray/table so it doesnt get any unwanted flood water from the lsd nutes. now simply flush by hand multiple time daily and catch the runoff and discard it. this way u dont dilute the ressy. its not ideal but ive made it work in the past.

    jondamon Well-Known Member

    It honestly looks like you don't know what you're doing as far as hydro goes.

    If you've been running at 1200-1400 ppm what has it been returning back to the res at? Also I don't see you mention your pH anywhere?

    My guess would be that you've been burning the shit outta these plants for a while.

    I used to use a wilma4 recirculating system with hydroton and I very rarely got above EC1.2 which is around 650ppm at 500scale or around 800 at the 700 scale.

    These plants look over fed, and pH could be a real problem due to the deficiencies and burnt look to pretty much every leaf.

    IMO I would drop your ppm down to either 500 or 700 depending upon which ppm scale you're using and see if the ppm increases after 24hours of feeding. If it increases then reduce down further.

    Are you familiar at all with hydro?


    fendz457 Member

    Thanks for that honest, yet hostile, response, jondamon. I am familiar with hydro, but am far from an expert. The pH has been a consistent ~6.0 the entire time, which is optimal for nutrient uptake. Sorry for not mentioning it before. The big issue is I was seeing how far I could push these plants. They were loving ~1500ppm, so maybe you had a different strain that liked 700ppm. The issue here is that I pushed it too far by going above 2000ppm, but didn't realize this until the burn set in and it was too late. And now I"m paying for the consequences. At the end of the day I have to experiment myself to see what the limits of my particular system are, so although I'm not happy about the JH, I'll live and learn. I've cut off the Jack Herer from the nutrient reservoir and am flushing her out. I'll harvest her ASAP... I think I can still get some decent bud from her. Meanwhile, the LSD is still dominating and the nutes are cut back to ~800ppm. I'll harvest her when trichomes begin to turn amber, so at least there's that.

    jondamon Well-Known Member

    Make sure you check your res after a full cycle for an increase or decrease in ppm.

    If it goes up, then cut back on ppm

    If it goes down then increase ppm.

    IME though there aren't many strains that can take that kind of ppm without it being heavy ppm's in veg.

    I was just being honest.

    I personally feed just enough. That way plants perform well and you don't get any osmosis happening in the root zone.


    fendz457 Member

    No offense taken! I'm trying to learn here. I'll definitely play it more conservative next time around.

    jondamon Well-Known Member

    You might want to read the link in my signature.

    It was a hydro grow of DINAFEM power KUSH.

    I explain everything in there about res monitoring.

    I had buds as big as your forearm.


    sacpirate Active Member

    ph @6 could be a calcium deficiency as well. i keep mine in the 5.6-5.8 range religiously
    nom de plume420

    nom de plume420 Member

    This. I would definitely check the Ph and Ppm or ec (better choice) of the run off so you know EXACTLY what is going on in the resevoir. I would also think about switching to containers because although there are advantages to hydro, you have just found one of the (major) limitations. In containers when this problem occurs you can check the ec or ppm and ph on each individual plant. When a problem like this occurs you won't have to worry about treating healthy plants along with the sick plants. It does look like you hammered it with nutes though. I personally have a hard fast rule about getting sickly plants away from healthy ones as quickly as possible though. It's just good growroom protocol. It's better to have a little of something then a lot of nothing.

    NugHunter Active Member

    post #8 ..good advice

    kindnug Well-Known Member

    Cut down the Jack immediately and be easy on the expensive nutes
    most people want to spend less for more
    You are spending more for less...

    I can't beleive some1 would let a plant get that burned before wondering what the problem is!

    sworth Well-Known Member

    Post #13...good advice ;)

    fendz457 Member

    Glad I could wow you all! Seriously, though, thanks for all of the advice. I pushed the nutes and now I'm seeing the consequences. Let's just say I've learned my lesson and will keep the ppm in a much power range (<1000ppm) for the entire grow.

    jondamon, or anyone for that matter, what would you recommend for nutrients if I don't want to spend $90/liter on Canna Boost alone? I need something a little more economical, which is why I went with GH Flora. Plus I've used it and know it does a decent job. But if there is something better out there for around the same price, then I'd really like to know about it!

    Anyway, take your jabs, but mistakes happen and I'm grateful for the advice nonetheless.
    sworth likes this.

    sworth Well-Known Member

    I'm digging your honesty dude. Any "Herb kudos" you may have lost through such a mistake is regained by having the balls to experiment, and the balls to share your results! lol!

    I'm getting tired of herb specific nute prices also, when my Canna bottles finish I'm going to try a generic bottle of organic feed from my local hardware shop. I've already replaced Canna's "Boost" with molasses, and noticed no reduction in yield,and my Ph up/down for Bicarb/citric acid.
    The guys who make Canna,Biobizz etc etc must be coining it in...
    Grown n Oregon

    Grown n Oregon Active Member

    dude, that thing is straight up rough lookin. i would start over and do the exact opposite of what u did on those ones.

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