++Hellraizers++ DO AND DONTs and in and outs of the ebb&grow/ebb&flow systems

akpaco

Active Member
HR,

Got back early this morning and plants have gotten bigger but look about the same. I was wondering what flood schedule do you think I should be on for 20 3 gallon buckets with those growstones at 18/6? they seem to dry pretty fast.

Thanks!
 

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
HR,

Got back early this morning and plants have gotten bigger but look about the same. I was wondering what flood schedule do you think I should be on for 20 3 gallon buckets with those growstones at 18/6? they seem to dry pretty fast.

Thanks!
I would treat it like hydroton..... 4 or 5 time during lights on. For 15min

if there still drying out just add more lol
as long as your plant dont show overwatering
issues!



hope all was well with your trip and familly
 
Hi guys,

I just setup two Titan 12 site Ebb & Gro's and I'm having a issue keeping the res clean which I believe might be affecting growth. Has anyone ever run into slime with E&F? The whole reason I switched from DWC to E&F was to avoid this issue.

I managed to get one harvest out of the system before I started to experience this, which I wiped off the walls of the res during my weekly res change:


The flower side was the first to get it, I noticed as I increased the feeding PPMs the slime would also increase. I tried to run a sterile res using 2ppm of Chlorine in 45 gal of RO water, which worked for a few weeks then the slime started to creep back, so I increased to 4ppm which helped but now even at that level I get the results you see above. I used H&G Aqua Flakes initially which had a tad less slime than the MaxiGro powder I'm currently using. I had a powerhead aerating the res, now I've added 3 air stones per which seems to bubble it nicely. Now the Veg side is getting traces of this same problem.

Now attempting a active res via the Heisenberg Tea which just got added yesterday so I'm hoping for the best, but it just doesn't seem like the typical slime that attacks the roots as there is some ok root growth but nothing spectacular.

Any ideas, I've emailed various tech support depts at nute companies and a bunch of hydro shops with no real solutions. I'm considering switch to EF tables, as I have a test table setup at another location and even with slime in the res the growth looks superb.

-Prop215
 

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MoJobud

Active Member
I keep telling myself to brew some tea but damn, using bleach is too easy. Only minor issue is that I do use 30% more ph down than I normally do. I use 1.5g per gallon mixed at 1oz per gal.
 

joe macclennan

Well-Known Member
I keep telling myself to brew some tea but damn, using bleach is too easy. Only minor issue is that I do use 30% more ph down than I normally do. I use 1.5g per gallon mixed at 1oz per gal.
I am at way lower levels than that now. 2g/gallon mixed at 2oz/50 gallons as an avg.

Last week my rez. temps were 75deg f and higher and I had to up my dose to 4oz/50 gallons. Rez. is still crystal clear.

Ph seems relatively unaffected at these levels

Happy Happy Happy:bigjoint:
 

MoJobud

Active Member
I am at way lower levels than that now. 2g/gallon mixed at 2oz/50 gallons as an avg.

Last week my rez. temps were 75deg f and higher and I had to up my dose to 4oz/50 gallons. Rez. is still crystal clear.

Ph seems relatively unaffected at these levels

Happy Happy Happy:bigjoint:
How often are you hitting it with bleach?
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
I will say this, if your going to relie on bleach, you should have a chlorine meter. Bleach just doesn't stay around, it's an oxidizer just like h2o2. That's how it works. I had some slime and I shocked the system with 8ppm of bleach. Came back 2 hours later, it was at .5 ppm. A single dose will certainly not last a week. Especially only 2ppm.

Strange you have slime in EF though. Reduce your watering frequency perhaps. Or, run the tea. The plants love that shit!!

Hell raiser. We're you the one just using pondzyme instead of the tea?
 

joe macclennan

Well-Known Member
I will say this, if your going to relie on bleach, you should have a chlorine meter. Bleach just doesn't stay around, it's an oxidizer just like h2o2. That's how it works. I had some slime and I shocked the system with 8ppm of bleach. Came back 2 hours later, it was at .5 ppm. A single dose will certainly not last a week. Especially only 2ppm.

Strange you have slime in EF though. Reduce your watering frequency perhaps. Or, run the tea. The plants love that shit!!

Hell raiser. We're you the one just using pondzyme instead of the tea?

I understand that it dissipates. All I can say is One dose IS keeping MY rez. clean for one week +

This wasn't the case a month ago. I had to redose every three days.

I agree with you on possibly reducing water frequency. This is the #1easiest way to help with rez/root problems imo.

Edit: those chlorine testers only test free chlorine in the water. Not nitomines which is what chlorine degrades to or something of that nature. Basically the way I understand it. Once the bleach hits organic material it oxidizes it and turns into nitromines. which is harmful to plants in the same way chlorine can be if at high enough levels. Only the testers don't see it.

Therefore redosing based off chlorine testers can be detrimental. This info. may not be exact but the gist of it is sound. I got it from user 1itsme who is in the pool business.
 

joe macclennan

Well-Known Member


  • Originally posted by 1itsme"
    smell is not a good indication of chlorine concentration, heres why. bleach (sodium hypochlorite), and pool chlorine (theres like 3-4 different chems used as chlorine for pools) dont have a particularly strong chlorine smell. when it's in a pool (or res) it reacts with organic material (usualy something with n like protiens or ammonia) and forms nitromines. niromines stink like chlorine and arent as efficient as sanitizers (they do stay in solution alot longer tho). when your doing a pool route and ppl complain about too much chlorine hurting their eyes, (generaly right @ the time algae starts showing up), the way you fix it is to shock the pool. eg. you add more chlorine -raise the avail chlorine lvls at least 10x higher than the nitromine lvls. what that does is cause the amonia to turn to a gas and come out of solution. ppl usualy think theres less chlorine the day after you shock a pool bc it doesnt smell or burn their eyes. of course its not true there's way more. yoiu need 2 different tests to tell how much chlorine there is. personaly i would avoid any organic material in the res (also any amonia or urea based n) while you are using chlorine as it will significantly reduce the effect of the chlorine as a sanitizer. hth & gl​



Ok here is the post. about chlorine and how it reacts with organic matter and such.
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Good info I thought that total chlorine testers measured both free and ummm, not free? Chlorine.

I never had good luck going the chorine route. I would love to learn how though as the slime is basically why I ditched DWC and went back to EF this round.
 
Once at rez change I am adding 2-4 oz of the solution/50 gallons. It is lasting a week or better without redosing. (thank goodness)

With a clear rez at the end of nute mix life.

hi joe,

how long have you been running those levels of bleach? That seems very high compared to my 24/ml daily dose of bleach and I thought I was on the extreme end. That's what it took to maintain 4ppm of free chlorine in my system. Have you measured yours using a chlorimeter? Be interesting in what you find.



  • Originally posted by 1itsme"
    smell is not a good indication of chlorine concentration, heres why. bleach (sodium hypochlorite), and pool chlorine (theres like 3-4 different chems used as chlorine for pools) dont have a particularly strong chlorine smell. when it's in a pool (or res) it reacts with organic material (usualy something with n like protiens or ammonia) and forms nitromines. niromines stink like chlorine and arent as efficient as sanitizers (they do stay in solution alot longer tho). when your doing a pool route and ppl complain about too much chlorine hurting their eyes, (generaly right @ the time algae starts showing up), the way you fix it is to shock the pool. eg. you add more chlorine -raise the avail chlorine lvls at least 10x higher than the nitromine lvls. what that does is cause the amonia to turn to a gas and come out of solution. ppl usualy think theres less chlorine the day after you shock a pool bc it doesnt smell or burn their eyes. of course its not true there's way more. yoiu need 2 different tests to tell how much chlorine there is. personaly i would avoid any organic material in the res (also any amonia or urea based n) while you are using chlorine as it will significantly reduce the effect of the chlorine as a sanitizer. hth & gl​



Ok here is the post. about chlorine and how it reacts with organic matter and such.
very interesting! I noticed when we were using the chlorine and switched from H&G to MaxiGro which has more ammonia based N, the slime seems to increase as well. Anyone know why this is?

I wonder if this has been my issue all along. Problem is, what nute DOESN'T have ammonia based N in it?

Good info I thought that total chlorine testers measured both free and ummm, not free? Chlorine.

I never had good luck going the chorine route. I would love to learn how though as the slime is basically why I ditched DWC and went back to EF this round.
Same here, hope to find an answer as well!

-P215
 

joe macclennan

Well-Known Member
hi joe,

how long have you been running those levels of bleach? That seems very high compared to my 24/ml daily dose of bleach and I thought I was on the extreme end. That's what it took to maintain 4ppm of free chlorine in my system. Have you measured yours using a chlorimeter? Be interesting in what you find.



very interesting! I noticed when we were using the chlorine and switched from H&G to MaxiGro which has more ammonia based N, the slime seems to increase as well. Anyone know why this is?

I wonder if this has been my issue all along. Problem is, what nute DOESN'T have ammonia based N in it?



Same here, hope to find an answer as well!

-P215

I started running it about two months ago. I was using h202 with little positive benefits. There were a series of problems that caused my slime/root rot problems. Gnats infestation and poor drainage were the most detrimental. I fixed them and ran out of the h202 so I started using pool shock/ cal. hypo. until my order of h202 came in.

The peroxide didn't faze this slime. The pool shock kicks it's ass. 2grams of poolshock(48% cal.hypo)/gallon of water. I am using 2-4 oz of this mixture per 50 gallons of rez. Dyna gro nutes.

I started running absurdly high levels of this solution. About 1oz/gallon rez. This was way too high and fried some roots. It was a completely new thing for me though and the slime was outta control. In three days with no sterilizers my rez would be ruined. I have been reducing my dose to where I am now and am very happy with the results. Even with the higher rez. temps I am seeing now.

It was quite a ride but things have settled down now. My story https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/655319-using-bleach-4.html#post9275810

good luck, hope you get it under control
 

joe macclennan

Well-Known Member
Good info I thought that total chlorine testers measured both free and ummm, not free? Chlorine.

I never had good luck going the chorine route. I would love to learn how though as the slime is basically why I ditched DWC and went back to EF this round.
It is working great in both my e&g and f&d systems at the doses I described.

Rez. temps as high as 75f with airstones
 
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