Growing resolutions for 2017?

iHearAll said:

the implementation of the microorganism will allow you to derive plant nutrituon from fruits and veggies, and decay materials at an insanely rapid rate. look at your diet for sources of plant nutrition before forking out money on boutique items that some guy formulated to be superior or hydrolike. farmers dont buy a bunch of inputs, they practice resource recovery

Click to expand...

Well like i said, my goal for this year is to learn. So by all means call me out if i say some stupid shit. I'm pretty much going by sub-cools recipe to build a super-soil. I may add or not use some parts of it but from my understanding you get good soil ammend with various things, add microbes, let it compost for a little while and then when everything has been broken down and made readily available to the plant by micro organisms you can put your plant in it and go an entire grow cycle using only water.

Which is what im trying to do. So if im doing something wrong please let me know so i wont fuck my shit up again.

bizarrojohnson said:

Well like i said, my goal for this year is to learn. So by all means call me out if i say some stupid shit. I'm pretty much going by sub-cools recipe to build a super-soil. I may add or not use some parts of it but from my understanding you get good soil ammend with various things, add microbes, let it compost for a little while and then when everything has been broken down and made readily available to the plant by micro organisms you can put your plant in it and go an entire grow cycle using only water.

Which is what im trying to do. So if im doing something wrong please let me know so i wont fuck my shit up again.

Click to expand...

okkkkk, my b for coming across as a tool. so you can totally get away with subs type ammendments with bomb results. but, its really quite easier and less expensive. so you compost right?

So everything you bought is also in the compost, its just easier to mathematically figure out what you have if you use bagged ingredients and powders and such. but thats expensive. do you own an air pump and a 5gal pail? i would recommend determining what your slow release ferts are and what your water solubles are. save,your water solubles from what you hhve purchased. use these in aact and apply the slo releases into soil.

ps i deleted a shitload of text,from this because i wrote whole "how to" microorganisms tek pretty much. the was like nah not the time. so if this makes eh for sense woops


paint brush pollenation ooo

I hear ya, thanks for the info. Thing is I don't have real compost. I probably have like 20 pounds in the backyard but it's going really slow. My backyard is huge and gross. Full of weeds and dog shit. I'm waiting for winter. Doesn't get cold here til like February here. So whenever it gets cold enough and all the weeds die I'm gonna back there and clean house. Then lay all my compost out in a pile on the ground. So now all I have is mushroom compost.

yea its 70F here.

http://www.teraganix.com/EM-1-Microbial-Inoculant-Microbial-Inoculants-p/1000.htm

recipe to extend EM1 into more bottles is as follows:
1 liter nonchlorinated water
2 T EM1 (in link)
2 T molasses (buy by the gallon online or at agricultural supplies stores)
ferment in air tight 1 liter size bottle for one week.

bokashi recipe:
5 gal spent coffee grinds collected from local coffee shops
5 gal peat moss (wild foraged from local forests or purchased)
mix 2T of EM extended and 2T of molasses in a qrt/liter of nonchlorinated water and mix into the coffee/peat substrate. bring to a moisture content that is saturated but doesnt drip when you squeeze it. seal this in the 5 gal pails for 2 weeks. Should smell sweet and pungent when ripe. and should have a white mold growing on the surface, it will be more evident when it is warm. birdseed and peat also makes for a good bokashi and is high in all NPK values.

Apply this to your compost as you build the compost. It will increase the decomposition of the materials. Proper carbon:nitrogen ratio is 2:1. That is, 2 layers of carbon per layer of nitrogen material. ie. leaves, then sawdust, then manure. then leaves, then grass, then food scraps. but apply bokashi in between each layer and build a pile that is a cubic yard sized mound.

turn once a week by moving it to the spot right next to it from the top down so it is completely turned over and mixed. maintain a 40-60% moisture content. use after the 2rd week has come to an end. no need to turn a 4th time.

a base soil consists of 1:1:1:1 _>>> [compost: vermicastings: peat (or similar): native dirt(loam) or bag soil].... really that just means equal parts by volume of those. so, maybe 5 gal of each. then, apply enough garden lime, epsom salt, and a half gallon to two gallons of bokashi per 20gal of soil. and mix with a shovel.

you can ferment kitchen waste as a liquid extract or make bokashi buckets of fermented kitchen scraps. What i do is gather spoiling material and weigh it on the kitchen scale. 1 kilo of solids in 1 liter of water with 2 T of extended EM and 2t of molasses. sealed and fermented for a minimum of one week. strain with a mesh strainer of sorts. compost solids, store liquids in the fridge. Dilute the liquids 1:100 by volume in water as a liquid fertilizer for foliar spray or soil drench. If applying to large plant's SOIL you can get away with higher concentrations of these types of extracts. They can keep for a long time without putrefying if stored correctly and can smell quite pleasant.

to make bokashi buckets you simply take a 5gal pail, sprinkle a handful of bokashi on the bottom, add up to an inch of food scraps and sprinkle some bokashi over top, not much is needed as there are billions of microorganisms that will reproduce and culture the food scraps. SOLID food waste (no liquids allowed in this one). Fill the 5 gal bucket all the way over a few weeks if necessary. Make sure you are adding bokashi all the way through filling it. Keep it sealed in between filling. Once full, keep sealed for 2 weeks and then add to a fresh pile of compost or dilute into a compost tumbler containing the ingredients to make a base soil. (listed above). Then tumble for 3 weeks.

You can determine what you are extracting based on the nutrient facts listed for daily health lol but not everything will be listed. For instance, many sources dont list the phosphorus content in food when, in fact, they will have more phosphorus than some of the things actually on the chart.

You can fight powdery mildew with extended EM foliar sprays. Mix 2T of EMe (EM extended) and 2T of molasses in a liter of water and spray your leaves under dim or no lighting. This also provides CO2 on to the leaves (i feel like i wrote this at least twice today lol).

there's a sure fire way to spend almost nothing on inputs and how to practice a sanitary and effective form of resource recovery