Grow room Electrical Safety Guidelines

Zensai

Member
Thanks for the response!

Ok, I’m going to take a second shot at explaining myself clearly. Thanks for the patience.

I have 2 rooms and have wired 10 outlets and 2 lights between them. The 2 lights will be 30w green cfls to be able to light the room when the “main” lights are out. I have wired these outlets and lights with 12-2 Romex and split them into 6 circuits. I will probably use 15-20a like you suggested because these outlets will have a light load. (pumps, circulation fans, etc.) 6 circuits is overkill but it’s already installed that way based on someone else’s advice.

Now for the main lights, at my max load the rooms will have 2000 and 5000 watts. I was going to use 10-2 Romex for this. I will just go over the wiring of the 5000w room to keep things clear. The way I see it, I will run the 10-2 from the breaker to the timer, (hardwired) then out of the timer to the roof of the 5000w room. Here is where my issues arise and the comment about the splitter comes in. I now have a wire coming from the timer and 5 lights, 5 ballasts, and 5 plugs.

1) If I do go 240v, how do I connect the 5 plugs from the lights to the Romex coming from the timer?
2) Since I’m not going to save money should I even mess with going 240v for the lights? What’s the benefit of 240v? Is it safer to lower the current?

If I kept it 120v then I would put a female plug on the end of the Romex coming from the timer, plug in a surge protector or splitter, and then plug the lights into the sp or splitter.

3) Can I combine the 6 circuits into 3? (combine them into pairs)

Thanks again for your responses, it’s a big help.
Running 240 will be less per month. I'm running 6000w of Lights and I'm running it on a Intermatic Timer. I installed a 40a breaker, ran 8-2 from the panel to the timer. From the timers relays I ran 2x 10-2 to 2x boxes that had 2x 240v dupelx plugs. Its not really that hard to wire or setup. The Duplex plugs are like 7$ a piece for 6-15R, and you can find timers that are 30-40$ and you buy a little bit of wire.
 

kingofqueen

Well-Known Member
how are you figuring 240 v is cheaper for month ? It might be more ideal but not cheaper a 1000w or whatever watt light uses the same amount of electricity regardless if it's 120v or 240v . The only way it gets cheaper is if your in a commercial setting where 277v is availible .
 

kingofqueen

Well-Known Member
alright then it's settled, I'll go with 120.

Thanks for your time and knowledge!
Dude 8000 watts of lighting is 66 amps of load I was thinking 800 thats alot to tackle if you have never wired that much b4 and if you have you wouldnt be asking these paragraphs of questions about wiring your lights a an "electrical saftey thread " You need a hey wire my lights for me thread .Sorry bro used up all my patience on this . I sent you a pm also .
 

NewClosetGrower

Well-Known Member
your more of a man than me bro, i wish i could have been your apprentice...

Dude 8000 watts of lighting is 66 amps of load I was thinking 800 thats alot to tackle if you have never wired that much b4 and if you have you wouldnt be asking these paragraphs of questions about wiring your lights a an "electrical saftey thread " You need a hey wire my lights for me thread .Sorry bro used up all my patience on this . I sent you a pm also .
 

kingofqueen

Well-Known Member
your more of a man than me bro, i wish i could have been your apprentice...
I know man I was just trying to be patient . I've seen threads turn against people and thats what happened . On one hand help this person if they can be helped ,on the other be a dick . Mabey there's a middle point I,m not capable of but I've accumalated 1 infraction already and it's not good to be the person who starts threads that end in arguement . So yeah kinda ticked to have mistook 800 for 8000 over all that unnessary bs . Sometimes i wonder if people just make stuff up just to see how far they can take it . Your not gonna catch me putting 8000w in the same building I live in what a fire hazard . That enviroment crates a different classification of building standards and by code I,m sure it's not none of the materials we use nor could it be listed in a dwelling . I personally would,t advise anyone to run that much in a residence . Then your dealing with people lives . Any advice I give on here is for personal medical grows .
 

sweetswisher

Active Member
anyone help I have a 400 watt pl lighting hps ballast and reflector It's always worked fine and I moved it to a different location in a different house and it hasn't worked right since. When I plug it in the ballast makes noise like its working but the light just flickers and sometimes it doesn't even flicker. Is my ballast shot or do I need a new capacitor? please any help is appreciated and Ive tried 3 different bulbs so its not the bulb
 

kingofqueen

Well-Known Member
9 times out of ten yes it would be the capacitor . Check your socket somtimes it can be the problem and be sure all connections are tight b4 you you buy a capacitor . The coils rarely go bad but when they do there is no doubt because they usally burn up and short the breaker .
 

NewClosetGrower

Well-Known Member
I know man I was just trying to be patient . I've seen threads turn against people and thats what happened . On one hand help this person if they can be helped ,on the other be a dick . Mabey there's a middle point I,m not capable of but I've accumalated 1 infraction already and it's not good to be the person who starts threads that end in arguement . So yeah kinda ticked to have mistook 800 for 8000 over all that unnessary bs . Sometimes i wonder if people just make stuff up just to see how far they can take it . Your not gonna catch me putting 8000w in the same building I live in what a fire hazard . That enviroment crates a different classification of building standards and by code I,m sure it's not none of the materials we use nor could it be listed in a dwelling . I personally would,t advise anyone to run that much in a residence . Then your dealing with people lives . Any advice I give on here is for personal medical grows .
yeah 8000w is some serious power, especially when were talking about lights in your home...you should see this pm i got the other day from a guy with a knob and tube system in his apartment complex needed help with amperage for lighting
 

kingofqueen

Well-Known Member
Wow havent seen knob and tube in awile . That stuff is scary to crawl around with in a tight attic . Yeah 8000w is asking for trouble at home . Someone inexperianced with electricity should really have a professional involved hands on with something like that .
 

RadMan55

Member
Need a little help with my first time grow.. Trying to get it right.

My nephew (4th year electrical apprentice) is helping me hook up a board and he needs a little help from a master electrician. It's a weekend, his buddies aren't around and I'd like to get a move on ;)

We are attempting to hook up a 240V system via a 30amp breaker at the main panel using 60 amp rated wire going into to a 240 timer and 240 coming out into a splitter box where we split off into two 120V circuits which powers up two 15 AMP plugs each.

We have power going to all the plugs but when plug anything into any of the two plugs on the left you get nothing even though the tester is showing that the plugs have juice flowing in and out of them. Two plugs on the right work just fine...

My knowledge of wiring something up goes as far as turning off a breaker off before I exchange a plug or a light switch..

Can anybody lend a hand please...

DSC_0566.jpgDSC_0570.jpgDSC_0580.jpgDSC_0576.jpgDSC_0579.jpg
 

kingofqueen

Well-Known Member
Hey there just read over your post and with the info provided ,good pics btw, I'd say that the plugs on the left mabey have lost the nuetrel(white wire) connection . To check this with a meter read from the 2 verticle slots on the plug ,then read from the taller of the two slots which should be your hot 120v to the ground the round hole at the bottom . If you read 120 hot to nuetrel your good there but if not you need to turn the power off and back trace the nutrels for that set of plugs. You should read 120 hot to ground no matter what but def sounds like a loose nuetrel.
 

RadMan55

Member
Thanks K of Q.. :)

Nudder question..

I'm running 4 1000w electronic ballasts with 9.5 AMP ratings simultaneously and will more than likely power the scrubber(s) off one of the 120 circuits or if I get more than one, then one on each of the 120 circuits.. Will the 30 AMP breaker be enough or do I need to go to 40 amps..
 

kingofqueen

Well-Known Member
Well thats 38a of lighting alone , U will trip the 30a brk for sure . For the load you got put it on atleast a 50 that give you 40a of safe load to use (80% of 50) . That should allow room to power scrubbers to depending how big and how many you go .
 

RadMan55

Member
I thought 30a was a little light but then again I never knew the amp size of the ballasts before I got them.. Will get that issue taken care of ASAP on Monday.. Thanks.. :)
 

RadMan55

Member
Hey there just read over your post and with the info provided ,good pics btw, I'd say that the plugs on the left mabey have lost the nuetrel(white wire) connection . To check this with a meter read from the 2 verticle slots on the plug ,then read from the taller of the two slots which should be your hot 120v to the ground the round hole at the bottom . If you read 120 hot to nuetrel your good there but if not you need to turn the power off and back trace the nutrels for that set of plugs. You should read 120 hot to ground no matter what but def sounds like a loose nuetrel.
Hi K of Q.. Checked all the leads and everything was nice and tight.. Don't have a meter so I couldn't check anything..

Pulled the panel off the wall and will photograph all the connections in greater detail..

Not sure if the timer is connected correctly so I'll scan and post the schematic for it tomorrow..

Maybe we can set something up whereby anybody will be able to put one of these boards together with your guidance :)

Cheers
 

mrmadcow

Well-Known Member
...My nephew (4th year electrical apprentice) is helping me hook up a board and he needs a little help from a master electrician....We are attempting to hook up a 240V system via a 30amp breaker at the main panel using 60 amp rated wire going into to a 240 timer and 240 coming out into a splitter box where we split off into two 120V circuits which powers up two 15 AMP plugs each.
OK I know you decided to up the breaker to a 220 50 amp breaker.
the pictures show 14 gauge wire going to each outlet but you have no fuse/breaker to protect you from an overload other than the 50 amp main breaker befor the timer so in the event of a short, you could be drawing 48 amps through a outlet rated 15 amps and a foot or so of 14 gauge romex without tripping a breaker.
:fire: a definate fire hazard & in violation of several codes! :fire: :fire: :fire:
you really need a sub panel after the timer to properly fuse the outlets.for the $30-40 it would cost including breakers,it would be foolish not to.
:dunce: & Shame on your nephew, a 4th year electrical apprentice should know better!!:dunce:
 

RadMan55

Member
OK I know you decided to up the breaker to a 220 50 amp breaker.
the pictures show 14 gauge wire going to each outlet but you have no fuse/breaker to protect you from an overload other than the 50 amp main breaker befor the timer so in the event of a short, you could be drawing 48 amps through a outlet rated 15 amps and a foot or so of 14 gauge romex without tripping a breaker.
:fire: a definate fire hazard & in violation of several codes! :fire: :fire: :fire:
you really need a sub panel after the timer to properly fuse the outlets.for the $30-40 it would cost including breakers,it would be foolish not to.
:dunce: & Shame on your nephew, a 4th year electrical apprentice should know better!!:dunce:
I like the sub panel idea and will get on it.. :)
 
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