Grafting Autoflowers onto a Non-auto base?

mosh2metal

Active Member
First, in response to your question of; "will the flowering be delayed at all by the size of the host plant?" I want to say no, other of course that the amount of time needed for the graft to take and heal and normal growth to then continue ... but that is pure assumption.

As for your sources, I would love to see all the sources you have, or at least links for them so PM away when you feel like doing so.

This is all beyond my level of plant knowledge and will take either a great deal of research or someone who is very educated in plant DNA and all facets of botany. The more you delve into it you find much more plays a part in the answer to the question than was stated in the initial question/theory message.

The central circadian clock genes, LHY and TOC1 are understandable and CCA1 was mentioned but without any real information of its functions or limits. When researched there appear to be limitations or things that can possibly control, partially control or at least somewhat alter it under certain conditions.

A hypocotyl, a dominant late elongated one or not, is the space between the radicle and the plumule. A hypocotyl develops into a stem. The radicle is the part of the embryo that emerges first and develops into a main root, root hairs and secondary roots. A plumule is like a leaf in its early development.

An elongated hypocotyl (lhy) encodes a MYB DNA-binding protein increasing LHY expression from a transgene, which is an exogenous gene introduced into the genome of another organism.

Research findings, though not performed on ruderalis or auto-flowering cannabis or any genus cannabis, and instead on other non-photoperiod plants found that transcriptional feedback loops constitute the molecular circuitry of the plant circadian clock and there is a core loop is established between CCA1 and TOC1.

Transcriptional feedback loops constitute the molecular circuitry of the plant circadian clock. A core loop is established between CCA1 and TOC1. Although CCA1 directly represses TOC1, the TOC1 protein has no DNA binding domains, which suggests that it cannot directly regulate CCA1. A functional genomic established strategy that led to the identification of CHE, a TCP transcription factor that binds specifically to the CCA1 promoter. CHE is a clock component partially redundant with LHY in the repression of CCA1. The expression of CHE is regulated by CCA1, thus adding a CCA1/CHE feedback loop to the circadian network. Because CHE and TOC1 interact, and CHE binds to the CCA1 promoter, a molecular linkage between TOC1 and CCA1 gene regulation is established

Now you have TOC1 protein and CHE thrown into the mix that were not initially mentioned, though might be in your sources.

For me to be able to answer the question correctly it will take a lot of time and a lot of serious research, so for my sake I hope your sources hold the answers or there is someone here who is in expert in plant DNA and plant functions that can give a simple answer because certain things appear to be contradictory to me and others just incredibly difficult to understand since I do not understand everything about the topic.
wow, you nearly need a degree just to read this stuff lol
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
In my experience with autos, stress makes them stop dead in their tracks from growing. I've had fully mature autos that were only 3 inches tall.
Something else is at work here for you. For some reason all of the recent outdoor plants were autoflowerers. For example, a few years ago I had a seedling autoflower in the spring on the 5th node and it turned out very large, 4 cola style.

Regarding grafting annuals, I guess if it suits your needs (you're space limited) then go for it. If you want to play games with cannabis, air layering makes more sense for those with alot of time on their hands.

In the plant trade annuals are never grafted, only perennials. Point regarding various varieties - I'm grafting citrus scion wood to dwarfing rootstock. I have been warned by professionals not to put say.....a lemon, grapefruit, lime and orange on the same rootstock as one or more will suffer in vigor or health compared to others. There will always be a dominance with some scion wood, recessive with others. You either have the space, or you don't.

Having said that, if you really feel there is that much difference in the latest mutts, then graft several scions to a plant that is known to produce a robust root system.

Good luck,
UB
 

potpimp

Sector 5 Moderator
Going back to the original post, the video title threw up a flag. "Urban grower" works for Advanced Nutes; I wonder if A.N. is about to roll out a new "miracle elixr" for grafting. It's a thought. :)
 

vic420

Active Member
and yes this works people its not bullshit my buddy has 2 plants like this 1 is a Bc Purps Base with Northern lights white widow blueberry bc mango grand daddy purps.. and the other one is chemdog sour diesel white rhyno alculpco gold.. and skunk number 1
 

vic420

Active Member
im talkin about grafting not doing an auto flowering plant with a non .. and i doubt that would work.. just because the cutting is as old as plant so unless u take cuttings from it wen its really young it mite never flower
 
I know this thread is a little old but it has some good info in it relevant to my question.

There is some evidence that grafting a flowering scion onto a vegetative stock can initiate flowering in the stock itself (even across species). so an autoflower in full flower grafted to a non autofloweering strain may cause the non autoflower to start flowering.

If this were to work and the "florigen" production was adequate from the autoflower it would be possible to grow a non auto in 18/6 (maybe even 24/0) and still have it flower. Of course this is not aomething I've tried (or can try, very little space atm). I would expect the photoplant at least go into flowering with least resistance.

Has anyone tried grafting an auto to a photo yet? It be great if we could flower photo plants in half the time by using lights on 24/7 as if the photo were an auto.

Just a thought. Take a look at http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florigen
 
If your asking me, its for a different goal than the op. I'm wondering if the autoflower would produce enough "florigen" to allow the photo plant to flower in more light than usual such as 18/6. More light per day may mean more growth per day.
 

tekdc911

Well-Known Member
? so what happened ? i am attempting this but will graft a branch from a auto to a auto intrested to hear about the auto photo graft
 

qroox

Well-Known Member
Everything BT wrote were excellent yet extremely detailed for my newbie self. I can see a benefit grafting one mother with 2-3 strains but that's just it. @ potroast.. I accidentally decapitated my auto (Green-o) and i am currently try to root the main stem ( about 8cm including what is buried ) . It was already flowering and the trichs now turned brown in 3-4 days(trying to end the cycle?)- ( still white trichs on ma headless lady). A little off topic but i wanted to contribute my experience regarding autos stresses. This one tho, turned out to be a hero. My cat pulled it when it was a seedling and the only leafset it had was cotyledons..!! I would love to see how it will yield. I'd like to hear some ideas regarding grafting advantages,as i cannot see more than one.

~Bill
 

tekdc911

Well-Known Member
seems like a cool experiment but not really practical for auto on a photo plant. I don't see the point. :confused:
auto graphted to a large root ball lets say like a 7 gal pot that has had a mother vegging for a year in it i could see many benefits that could come from this
 

Teltek

Member
auto graphted to a large root ball lets say like a 7 gal pot that has had a mother vegging for a year in it i could see many benefits that could come from this
Lol

What benefits can you foresee ?

I predict it would = WASTE OF TIME lol
 

Teltek

Member
much like the account you are on
waste of space and time ;)
You clearly agree then, that trying to graft a predetermined flowering stock onto a photoperiod stock would be a complete waste of time.

On the other hand, grafting superior photoperiod to photoperiod stock to each other does open up certain advantages, the "handshake method" often being implemented to do so, for either mother plants or flowering plants.

Trying to graft autos is simply a waste of time
 

tekdc911

Well-Known Member
hmmm .... now i want to graft a auto to a photo so the top auto section can be harvested while the bottom has been vegging then flip it to 12/12 after the auto chop >.<
 
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