Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Coolio, thanks
Herro Kitty!
Thanks.
Some would never run a successful grow op if that was their belief. Thermostatically controlled ventilation is an utter essential for a functional grow op. The only way to avoid it would be to install air conditioning- and then one would also have to introduce CO2- this would roughly double to triple the cost (if not more) of running an op like mine.
There are no fire hazards in my op- neither should there be any in yours. If there were any (say, a combustion type CO2 generator), a fire suppression system which disconnected AC mains power to the ventilation system would be sensible. However, if your electrics are in good condition, all devices adequately fused, circuits are not loaded in excess of their capacity (continuous load should not exceed 80% of breaker rating- I run 50%), off the floor and away from wet, you have no fears of fires. If you have your house in true order, the risk of fire is so low that sophisticated fire protection and suppression are simply unnecessary. Breakers will trip or fuses will open before anything foul can happen.
Anyone installing an op should be intimately familiar with the wiring of the housing structure. Smart growers pull in their own run of new 10-12ga Romex cable from a power panel in their op to the breaker box so to avoid using existing house wiring, especially if it is old or of dubious quality. 10ga will carry 30A.
The jury's out on smoke alarms. A falsely alerting smoke alarm can draw public attention to your op in your absence. Can spoil your whole day when you get home.
Watering failures are a frequent pain in the ass, usually caused by an air bubble in a pump chamber, sometimes caused by a pump wearing out, less often caused by a malfunctioning digital timer (they act screwy when their backup batts die, OK after replacement, kinda defeats the purp, eh?).
Continuous harvest ops are hard to control stuff like PM in. The existing infected crop quickly colonises the newbs. I'm still working on that, as you know. The trick is to never let it get started. One of these days, I may have to pull everything out of the room, sterilise it, harvest everything harvestable and start the process over. Not that fussed yet, tho. Still generally working fine despite the odd dusty leaf.
Sulfur burner is a recent addition, have been using 'Micro Kill' in the past.
No thanks to the wiseass who stole my opportunity for a cheap smutty joke here.
Yeah, but you have to understand that 'nose down, hard work; to me involves bonghits and a couple of cups of coffee, as well as talking to you lot.
No, you get the same effect as adding fresh nute mix to an old tank. Think of it this way; your fresh nutes might be NPK 10-20-10. After 2 weeks, let's presume all the P is eaten, half the N and 2/3 of the K. So, you have 5-0-3.3. Then you add a 50% tank volume of fresh 10-20-10. The resulting NPK is something like 7.5-10-6.65, not quite the high P ratio you want for flowering.
Don't know what the FF feeding sked has to do with it. Nutes iz nutes for the most part. Nutes from big mfrs are more likely to be consistently quality controlled than those mixed up in buckets in the back of Ye Olde Hydroe Shoppe. However, quite often, small maker or bargain nutes can work surprisingly well, but are best suited for experienced growers who can spot problems quickly should they arise.
wk 4 from seed? Got to raise them to sexual maturity (6-8wks from seed) and sex them before they're useful as donors for plants you will flower. Raise your seedlings to sexual maturity, sex them (cover a branch for 12h/day while keeping the donor under veg cycle light or take cuttings, MARK WHICH PLANT THEY CAME FROM, then put those under 12/12 to reveal sex) THEN you can take all the cuttings for flowering you like.
