Get a Harvest Every 2 Weeks

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Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Originally Posted by BEEFCAK3
tell how u use 4 trays, i see the method but dnt understand how are u lighting all areas, so im assuming you have 4 trays and they all have hps 12/12
*sigh* OK, I'll make it easy- 4 trays, 2x 1000 HPS. Each pair of trays shares a single 1000.
 

BEEFCAK3

Active Member
ok got it lol! my bad burn one and u should feel better. when u clone do u veg them for a period of time before u put into flower, im assuming ur puttin the clones 12/12 right away??
 

cmak40

Well-Known Member
Could you give an approximate dry yield of one tray?
can be found in the middle of the thread somewhere but i think BEFORE the cool tubes it was just over 16oz
(please correct if im wrong Al) and he hasnt concluded on the yield with the cooltubes.

ok got it lol! my bad burn one and u should feel better. when u clone do u veg them for a period of time before u put into flower, im assuming ur puttin the clones 12/12 right away??
he elabd on this about 5 times not just about 6 or 7 pages back......he cuts them, them puts them under 24 hr light for about10-14 days to set GOOD roots then they go straight into flower
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
can be found in the middle of the thread somewhere but i think BEFORE the cool tubes it was just over 16oz
(please correct if im wrong Al) and he hasnt concluded on the yield with the cooltubes.
You're spot on, well done. :D

I'm harvesting for the next several days, we'll see how we go, but this one won't really be representative of what the cooltubes will do for yield.

he elabd on this about 5 times not just about 6 or 7 pages back......he cuts them, them puts them under 24 hr light for about10-14 days to set GOOD roots then they go straight into flower
Yep, mums are under 24/7 light, too. The only deviation is that the clones get a 6 hour dark period immediately after cutting (only)- prevents any wilt while water uptake from the cube is established.
 

BEEFCAK3

Active Member
alrighty understood that is pretty dam slick to, i love ur taste on set-ups great job keep it up and safe swervin !!
 

panhead

Well-Known Member
Hi Al,im a bit worried about pump failure in the flood & drain systems im starting to build,have you ever ran dual pumps at the same time to one table,kinda as a back up incase a pump goes down.
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
al says he uses the cheapest pumps and havent had that much trouble...you should be straight.

and beside....when you flood......the pump could fail, and you'd be straight for a few days because the media is still kinda damp/soaked!!!
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
hahaha that must be you who repped me.......i feel honored to be repped by Al.
You ought to be. :lol: I don't play the rep points game much. After 3600-odd posts, I figured you deserved something. :D

Hi Al,im a bit worried about pump failure in the flood & drain systems im starting to build,have you ever ran dual pumps at the same time to one table,kinda as a back up incase a pump goes down.
Haven't done that because centrifugal pumps allow backflow when they are not running. In a twin pump system, if one pump totally failed, it would allow water to drain out which had just been pumped up to the tray by the other.

al says he uses the cheapest pumps and havent had that much trouble...you should be straight.

and beside....when you flood......the pump could fail, and you'd be straight for a few days because the media is still kinda damp/soaked!!!
Actually, I do have a lot of problems with water pumps- more than I think I should have, anyway. If it's not a pump just dying, it's air bubbles getting trapped in the centrifugal pump chamber when water drains down (vortex effect) and the pump sitting there cavitating instead of moving water. Expensive pumps have as many problems as the cheap ones, believe it or not. First thing I do when checking the op daily is to lift up a pot from the corner of each tray to make sure it has been watered.

Pots full of Fytocell don't hold as much water as pots of rockwool floc. Pots of floc will store enough water for 2-3 days, enough even for really big plants- Fytocell will only carry them for a day.

However, the water storage capacity of RW prevents freshly oxygenated water from frequent contact with roots. That was why I changed.

I'm testing a small theory at the moment. I've put some little circles of fine stainless steel screen (like Americans use in bong cones, but stolen from a sink faucet water strainer- oh wait, that's where the yanks get them from, too... :D) in each fill fitting. This will slow the water flow a fair bit requiring my pumps run longer to fill the trays (big fat hairy deal), but the screens should stop air being sucked down the fill hose and into the pump by Ye Olde Coriolis Effect Vortex.
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
so al, you're telling me there is nothing i do for our pumps? should i look into new pumps?

i mean i cant see no probs yet...but i be damned if i wanted one!
 

cmak40

Well-Known Member
I'm testing a small theory at the moment. I've put some little circles of fine stainless steel screen (like Americans use in bong cones, but stolen from a sink faucet water strainer- oh wait, that's where the yanks get them from, too... :D) in each fill fitting. This will slow the water flow a fair bit requiring my pumps run longer to fill the trays (big fat hairy deal), but the screens should stop air being sucked down the fill hose and into the pump by Ye Olde Coriolis Effect Vortex.
can you please elab on that when you notice the diff(if there is any) seems like a good theory, ill follow suit
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
so al, you're telling me there is nothing i do for our pumps? should i look into new pumps?

i mean i cant see no probs yet...but i be damned if i wanted one!
One thing I've found that will cause probs is if the hose to the pump is longer than needed. The pump outlet should point upward, with no excess length in the hose line, to minimise air bubble capture in the pump.

Stay tuned. I think the screens will sort it out but I'm not confident enough about that yet to make any sweeping statements. :)
 

Squeechie

Active Member
I had a couple for al..

1) I kinda found the answer already in pg 88 so im half way there but heres the situation. I started seed which were in a propagator/cover until roots sprouted thru the rockwool. Then transplanted the small plants with thier rockwool plugs into 5" square pots filled with hydroton pebbels. But before I was thru, i soaked the rockwool with the newly mixed solution it will be receiving. On top of that I was filling the table almost all the way to the top, saturating the rockwool again 6x/24hrs.. What i have now is some of the plants with yellowed bottom leaves, with blotches and overall stunted growth compared to others. Will these plant eventually recover and strive just like the rest by just letting them dry out, or are these scarred and will show the signs of f***up in the future?

I also have a flood cycle at 2am when the lights go off at 12am. Is that totally wrong?

Also I have heard that you should keep on lowering the flood level as roots extend down into the pebbles. Is this so? And if so, at what point do you stop lowering the level?

Last one... I see you use a HPS for vegging. Any particular reason? Do you use it to get your length on clones faster? I just ordered a Sunmaster Cooldeluxe for $89 compared to a standard MH for $49(and more lumens for cheaper). Did I make a mistake with the lights also?:evil:

Thanks for your advice in advance..
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
I had a couple for al..

1) I kinda found the answer already in pg 88 so im half way there but heres the situation. I started seed which were in a propagator/cover until roots sprouted thru the rockwool. Then transplanted the small plants with thier rockwool plugs into 5" square pots filled with hydroton pebbels. But before I was thru, i soaked the rockwool with the newly mixed solution it will be receiving. On top of that I was filling the table almost all the way to the top, saturating the rockwool again 6x/24hrs.. What i have now is some of the plants with yellowed bottom leaves, with blotches and overall stunted growth compared to others. Will these plant eventually recover and strive just like the rest by just letting them dry out, or are these scarred and will show the signs of f***up in the future?
Good onya, you've found the fault.

Yes, if you have corrected the flood level problem, they will recover, but will be slowed a bit until they catch back on. Hopefully, these are still vegging. If they are in flower, they may not have enough weeks left in the flowering cycle catch back up to the others. It's cool, you'll know better for next time.

I also have a flood cycle at 2am when the lights go off at 12am. Is that totally wrong?
2 hours past lights off? No, you don't need to water during lights-off at all.

Best not to water immediately before lights-off, too. If lights-off is at midnight, your last watering should be no later than 10-10:30pm.

Also I have heard that you should keep on lowering the flood level as roots extend down into the pebbles. Is this so? And if so, at what point do you stop lowering the level?
No, it's OK to flood roots in pellets because pellets don't hold anywhere near the amt of water as does rockwool. There's lots of airspaces between pellets, so you can flood really quite often, about 3x per lights-on in wks 1-2, perhaps 4x in wks 4-6, perhaps as much as 5x in the later weeks.

Last one... I see you use a HPS for vegging. Any particular reason? Do you use it to get your length on clones faster? I just ordered a Sunmaster Cooldeluxe for $89 compared to a standard MH for $49(and more lumens for cheaper). Did I make a mistake with the lights also?:evil:
I initially used the 400HPS for vegging mums because it was on hand. It worked a treat so I never bothered getting an MH.

Several years later, I did pick up a MH conversion lamp for HPS on a whim (got it cheep). Used it for about a month- and it did exactly what an MH is supposed to do, surprisingly enough. ;) Veg growth was much mode compact, internodal lengths much shorter. You'd think that was good news, wouldn't you?

However- it meant that I didn't have nice long stems for my SoG style cuttings... so I switched back to the 400HPS... and the MH conversion lamp sits on the shelf.
 

cmak40

Well-Known Member
.

I initially used the 400HPS for vegging mums because it was on hand. It worked a treat so I never bothered getting an MH.

Several years later, I did pick up a MH conversion lamp for HPS on a whim (got it cheep). Used it for about a month- and it did exactly what an MH is supposed to do, surprisingly enough. ;) Veg growth was much mode compact, internodal lengths much shorter. You'd think that was good news, wouldn't you?

However- it meant that I didn't have nice long stems for my SoG style cuttings... so I switched back to the 400HPS... and the MH conversion lamp sits on the shelf.
just a quik ? i have a 400 watt lamp with a switchable ballast. i use it with the hps on my plants right now, no reason jus didnt care to use the MH bulbs. im actually experiencing pretty close internodes, about 1" range(plants from seed) but my stems to be cut look very good about 2.5-3.5 mm and theyll get bigger by cutting time. doesnt bother me or anything but they would be closer with the MH bulb?

also with all these plants i have they are in dirt as of now, im chopping clones off all of them to start the grow in full swing. after i do this the plants will recover well with plenty off flowering stems yes?(plants goin to another op, dirt...) would the MH be a benifit for this situation(getting more stems closer together)? or theyll reproduce as i need pretty much?
 
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