FrigiDare 2 Indica's Infrared Spectrum Trial

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
FrigiDare 2 Indica and Infrared Spectrum Trial

This is a journal for a Frigidaire freezer I made into a flowering chamber named FrigiDare 2 Indica. My first use of a fridge was a success. It has a 150W CMH and a Diesel Cross flowering in it now after a harvest. I have a build journal A Medicinal Refridgerator that has my DIY projects including this one.

This is a 150W HPS in a Cool Tube, a 250W CMH, & a 100W Infrared Heat Bulb. I will be doing a trial of a mixed spectrum with the IR bulb to mimic mother nature's 'sunrise' & 'sunset'. Much of this was inspired by RiddleMe. I also gained a bit from Stealthy and his killer cabinet.
There is an Exhaust Fan for each Bulb, and a Intake Fan (a second will be added if needed). My build journal has the way I made it so Please look there if you can for the basic DIY of it.

On to the Plants. I have two Royal Kush They have been Vegging under a 400W CMH and were itching to start flowering. They are in my own soil mix. I'll get it's analysis from tamu.edu later posted. Thx Uncle Ben. I follow basically all of their views on how we grow this Cannabis.

They have been fed Jack's 20-20-20 and Dyna-Gro Pro-teKt since I cloned them. This time I'm changing one to a different nutrient line to flower. A Flairform distributor I met on another site sent me a sample kit when I said I was interested in their SilikaMajic to compare with the Pro-teKt. He sent me a whole sample kit to see how it works. It is an Australian company that makes no bullshit claims about cannabis specific additives/supplements or lofty claims for yield. I refuse to touch any Advanced Nutrient or other over-priced fertilizers. This won't be a true comparison since I'm switching at the transplant into the final pots.

#3 got a light burn from the 400W CMH while vegging. New growth looks good, but she gets the FF [or Ff for Flairform] I did some Lst'n on her but it was spreading to wide. They barely fit as is. I may pull the Ff to another chamber in 3 or 4 weeks if need be too.

So I'll get info on this Infrared Light and UV-B later along with pics of these from clone through tonight's transplant tomorrow. For now the Idea:idea: is to have the IR for 15 min. alone as 'sunrise' begins, then HPS & CMH (has UV-B too) to start the day, then IR for last 30 min. w/ HID's off 15 earlier for their 'sunset'. Idea is they repair the IR radiation damage over-night by resin production.

Feel free to comment and give advice. No "Haters" please. I don't follow forum myth's, nor will this grow be like almost any around.:bigjoint:
Daniels:weed:
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reggaerican

Well-Known Member
i have a ? for you daniel.. i know you have several exhaust fans and the intake down low but what do you do for circulation??
 

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
i have a ? for you Daniels. i know you have several exhaust fans and the intake down low but what do you do for circulation??
I wish I found a small oscillating fan, but I didn't so oh well. The Exhaust fans are 133 CFM each so 400 CFM for a 18 c.ft chamber.
 

gumball

Well-Known Member
remember daniels, a lot of us have found that a circulation fan in a small area actually increases heat. maybe in a room the size of riddleme's it would be ok. but in a confined space like the fridge it may increase temps.
 

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
subbed lookin forward to watchin this one, great job on the fridge!
Thanks. Good to have you along. Feel free to add all you want on IR or CMH & UV-B. Or after re-reading that sentence, feel free to add ANYTHING you see I need on this Trial. If you and Ed Rosenthal are nosing around here there is obviously something to find.
Daniels
 

bobhamm

Active Member
remember daniels, a lot of us have found that a circulation fan in a small area actually increases heat. maybe in a room the size of riddleme's it would be ok. but in a confined space like the fridge it may increase temps.
I had a 2x2x4 foot chamber(16 cu ft)) and exhaust was from the very top, about 12-18" above the canopy, reading about circulation I tried a small fan insde the chamber and temps went up about 5 degrees so I took the fan out, I guess the exhaust fan was sucking out the hottest air before it had a chance to mix with the cooler... looking good, thinking about the IR for my next one, that eexcerpt from ed that riddle had wher ed said you could get up to 15 hours sunlight(with additional far red added at the right times) and still have them flowering has been kicking in my head lately, really gotta go find it...

heres that link, thank google :)
http://mjgrowers.com/book_what_exper2.htm
 

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
looking good, thinking about the IR for my next one, that excerpt from ed that riddle had where ed said you could get up to 15 hours sunlight(with additional far red added at the right times) and still have them flowering has been kicking in my head lately, really gotta go find it...

heres that link, thank google :)
http://mjgrowers.com/book_what_exper2.htm
Here it is. It was something I couldn't get out of my head for a while either. I looked into it, but size and height plus $ made me get half worked in.

Originally Posted by riddleme
Well it seems that I am not the only one that is experimenting with IR to make bigger, better buds Ed Rosenthal just came out with an updated version of his growers handbook (subcool was involved) and I have been reading excerpts from it all morning, good stuff!!!

a lot of what I am doing is discussed, ie; my way of manipulating the light cycle and I gatta say that I am going to buy this book based on everything I have read so far, here is the quote about using IR (there is more, link at the end)

Flowering In Less Darkness
In Experiments at the Cutting Edge, Part I, I discussed critical dark periods that induce flowering. When the plant repeatedly receives an uninterrupted dark period of that length, flowering is induced. The plant measures darkness as the absence of red light. To stop a plant from flowering, interrupt the dark period with red light such as the light from an incandescent bulb half way the dark period and the plant will continue to grow vegetatively.
When the red light ends it takes the inactive form (which doesn’t promote flowering) about two hours to change over to the active form. This can be speeded up considerably by far red light. You cannot see far red light but you can feel it as heat. Incandescent bulbs emit about 10% of their energy as visible light. The other 90% is emitted as far red light. When the light hits a solid object, the energy is converted to heat.
You can make your own far red energy lamp by covering an incandescent bulb with opaque black paper. The visible light is blocked but the far red rays go through the filter. Far red bulbs are available at pet shops where they are sold as black heat lamps.
When far red light comes in contact with the inactive form of the flowering hormone, the hormone is immediately converted to the active form. The far red light doesn’t have to remain in contact with the plants long—just a few moments will do.
Photoperiodism is a localized effect. If you had a plant with two branches and one of the branches was given a flowering light regime while the other was given continuous light, the first branch would flower but the second would continue to grow vegetatively. Because the effect is localized, all parts of the plant must be reached with the far red light. Think of applying far red light as you would think of spraying water on the plant. The entire plant and all its vegetation must be dripping with water when you are done. It is in this manner that you have to spray the plant with invisible light. The spraying should take place each evening after dusk or after the lights have been turned off.

The Effects of Far red Light on Outdoor Gardens
(WARNING: THESE METHODS ARE BEING TESTED NOW. THE RESULTS WILL BE AVAILABLE LATER THIS YEAR.)
In an earlier article “Project Haiku,” I described how to force plants to flower early by covering them each day using an opaque curtain. They were harvested eight weeks after forcing began.
Far red light can substitute for the curtain tossing. In Northern California, where Project Haiku took place, June 22 is the longest day and shortest night of the year; the garden received 14¾ hours of light and 9¼ of darkness. The short dark period prevents flowering. Chemically, the inactive flowering hormone is taking its time, 2 hours worth, to convert to the active form. The plants are under the influence of the flowering hormone for only 7¼ hours, so the plant remains growing vegetatively.
When the plants are “sprayed” with far red light, the hormones convert over to the active form. If this is done daily at dusk, it gives the plants another two hours under the influence of the active hormone each day. This is a long enough period for them to be induced to grow buds and start flowering. So if a garden was forced in May it will ripen in July. A June forced garden, such as PH, is harvested in August
The main problem with using far red light is that it sometimes induces stem stretching. There is a solution: spray the plants with blue light. Blue light has been used for decades in a few commercial nurseries to keep plants compact and prevent stretching. Plant photoperiodism is not affected by the blue spectrum. After the plants are sprayed with far red light, a spray of blue light keeps the stems short and stocky.

Far red Light Indoors Gardens
(WARNING: FINAL RESULTS FROM THESE EXPERIMENTS HAVE NOT YET BEEN REPORTED)
The typical indoor flowering room spends 12 hours a day, half its time, in darkness. The positive side of this is that the dark period forces the plants to flower. The negative side is that while the plants are in darkness they don’t photosynthesize.
A few growers have figured out their plants’ critical flowering time and increased the lit period by up to an hour and a half. Instead of spending 50% of their time in darkness, they spend only 44%. More importantly they luxuriate under the lights for another 6% of the time. That’s an increase of more than 12% of the lighted period. A corresponding increase in yield should follow.
Using an far red light spray followed by the blue light cuts down the need for as long a dark period as plants are normally given. Imagine if you could reduce the dark period by 2 hours, more than 16% of the lighted period.
If both techniques were used the lighted period would total up to 15½ hours, three and a half more hours each day for creating sugars and energy for growth. The final result: Bigger buds, and more of them.



found the link while reading the cannabis culture articles here,,,,,
http://www.cannabisculture.com/v2/grow

Ed's site for the new book is here,,,,,,,
http://mjgrowers.com/book.htm

Nice to see that I am coming up with stuff that others are doing, think I am going to contact Ed and let him know :smile:
 

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
Here's more info on IR and THC
From
Photochemistry and Photobiology Volume 46 Issue 2
UV-B RADIATION EFFECTS ON PHOTOSYNTHESIS, GROWTH and CANNABINOID PRODUCTION OF TWO Cannabis Sativa CHEMOTYPES
Daniels :weed:
:twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted:
Abstract

The effects of UV-B radiation on photosynthesis, growth and cannabinoid production of two greenhouse-grown C. sativa chemotypes (drug and fiber) were assessed. Terminal meristems of vegetative and reproductive tissues were irradiated for 40 days at a daily dose of 0, 6.7 or 13.4 kJ m-2 biologically effective UV-B radiation. Infrared gas analysis was used to measure the physiological response of mature leaves, whereas gas-liquid chromatography was used to determine the concentration of cannabinoids in leaf and floral tissue.

There were no significant physiological or morphological differences among UV-B treatments in either drug- or fiber-type plants. The concentration of Δ9-tetrahydrocannabinol (Δ9-THC), but not of other cannabinoids, in both leaf and floral tissues increased with UV-B dose in drug-type plants. None of the cannabinoids in fiber-type plants were affected by UV-B radiation.

The increased levels of Δ9-THC in leaves after irradiation may account for the physiological and morphological tolerance to UV-B radiation in the drug-type plants. However, fiber plants showed no comparable change in the level of cannabidiol (a cannabinoid with UV-B absorptive characteristics similar to Δ9 THC). Thus the contribution of cannabinoids as selective UV-B filters in C. sativa is equivocal.
 

ElectricPineapple

Well-Known Member
thats amazing. so by using Far red light during part of the plants light period, still lets them be in flowering while using say a 14/10 photoperiod during flower? hmmm i may have to try this.

Im subbed to this grow haha.
 

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
Here's their Light Schedule

'sunrise'
6:45 IR on
7:00 HPS & CMH on
7:15 IR off

'sunset'
6:45 IR on
6:40 CMH off
6:45 HPS off
7:15 IR off

Nutes from Flairform
Flair Form Run Kit.jpg
 

gumball

Well-Known Member
holy shit thats a lot of nutes!!! may i ask why you dont run your system at night to help with temps, aside from the fact you like to mess through the day!!?? i am sure you stated once upon a time, but who knows when or where.
 

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
Temps are falling soon, and Everything else comes on at 6 or 8. I was thinking about nights getting too low. I may have a plan for that. When Marge is done in the fridge, I could run Fridge/Freezer alternating. They are on the opposite sides and corners in the garage, but I guess both could go to the center. Theresa from Outside may have finish in the garage too w/ 3 Cfl's.
 

reggaerican

Well-Known Member
remember daniels, a lot of us have found that a circulation fan in a small area actually increases heat. maybe in a room the size of riddleme's it would be ok. but in a confined space like the fridge it may increase temps.
thats a good point.. i thought about that, but also i was thinking cause it is sealed so tightly and is such a small place.. do you even need a fan other than intake and exhust?
sure it helps with strengthening the branches but it cant really fall over in such a small space.. and it also helps with pest control but then again you are sealed so tightly that it prob wont even be a prob?? wheels are just turning as usuall and brain wants to feed.. so what you think?
 

gumball

Well-Known Member
well daniels has over 200cfm sucking out, and over 100 blowing in, so he probably has a vortex of sorts flowing through there. his other chambers/areas are similar, but yet the spider mites still got him. and think insects survive outside just fine, so i dont think the wind will help much with them.
 
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