Foliar Spray Receipts.!?

cannakis

Well-Known Member
What is your favorite Foliar spray? Aloe Vera? I heard the powder is good but all I see is dietary aloe Vera dried. I was going to start adding like 1/2 Tbls of Rich Earth humate and fulvic blend liquid to 2 Gal water. Should I add anything else? http://www.richearth.net I got a bunch of this for real cheap on clearance at local garden supply. So I will be needing to figure something else out... Maybe Aloe and Apple Cider Vinegar Braggs Raw!?!
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Here's how happy the garden looked after my IPM today.

Lemon Neem bronnergrette:

1quart distilled h2o in hand pump mister

in a small glass jar mix: 2.5-5ml neem oil, 5ml of lemon juice, 2.5-5ml of dr bronners peppermint soap
mix so no oil is floating, may need to add a hair more soap if necessary.

add the emulsion to the pump mister, seal and shake the hell out of it! Mist finely onto plants

Happy.jpg
beautiful neem sheen :) this was about 6 hours after the foliar. pulled out from the light for a few hours during application.
 

cannakis

Well-Known Member
Here's how happy the garden looked after my IPM today.

Lemon Neem bronnergrette:

1quart distilled h2o in hand pump mister

in a small glass jar mix: 2.5-5ml neem oil, 5ml of lemon juice, 2.5-5ml of dr bronners peppermint soap
mix so no oil is floating, may need to add a hair more soap if necessary.

add the emulsion to the pump mister, seal and shake the hell out of it! Mist finely onto plants

View attachment 3515996
beautiful neem sheen :) this was about 6 hours after the foliar. pulled out from the light for a few hours during application.
I really like using dr bronners...! Good idea! I'll have to try that... I'm thinking more of Braggs ACV with Bronners and an oil perhaps the neem...
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
I really like using dr bronners...! Good idea! I'll have to try that... I'm thinking more of Braggs ACV with Bronners and an oil perhaps the neem...
i tried braggs acv for PM in my vege garden this year, didnt work for crap. the lemon juice for some reason seems to be taking care of these cuttings i have in quarantine because of PM. but my buddy was gonna throw away some killer genetics i was like, "hell no, i'll take those". lol i treated my whole veg room just for the hell of it. just cause you don't see anything doesn't mean a little IPM isn't still a benefit! they loved it.
 

cannakis

Well-Known Member
i tried braggs acv for PM in my vege garden this year, didnt work for crap. the lemon juice for some reason seems to be taking care of these cuttings i have in quarantine because of PM. but my buddy was gonna throw away some killer genetics i was like, "hell no, i'll take those". lol i treated my whole veg room just for the hell of it. just cause you don't see anything doesn't mean a little IPM isn't still a benefit! they loved it.
Haha I hear that! What kind of genes? Never want to see good strains go extinct...!

Oh I didn't know the lemon juice was for Pest Management...
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Haha I hear that! What kind of genes? Never want to see good strains go extinct...!

Oh I didn't know the lemon juice was for Pest Management...
yeah Mohican turned me on to the lemon juice. im glad he did too. i saw a few spots of PM on one of my Dr. Who that i harvested yesterday. fortunately it looked like it had just gotten started, and there was very little that i found. but man did it take me a long time to get through one plant from scouring every nook and cranny for it and gettin rid of that shit lol. SO i'm glad i treated my whole veg room which was showing no signs of it at all. I think lack of airflow and leaf surface dryness are the biggest contributors to powdery mildew just from what i've read and experienced.

the cuts he was gonna toss are GG#4, Querkle, and Sour D. I had just recently picked up Jack's Cleaner 2, and Confidential Cheese from him as well. I'm trying to get his buddy's Brianberry Cough seeds lol. hoping he gets them to me.
 

tyson53

Well-Known Member
I use a foliar thats consists of Silica..Nitrozyme..fulvic acid..and bubbled insect frass in water...strain the frass after 8 hours of bubbling...use the water to mix the rest in ...I had one plant that had a spot of PM..after spraying it was gone...I spray twice a week with this...this mix works great in veg an part way thru flowering...you can see the difference it makes and plants stay PM free also
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
I use a foliar thats consists of Silica..Nitrozyme..fulvic acid..and bubbled insect frass in water...strain the frass after 8 hours of bubbling...use the water to mix the rest in ...I had one plant that had a spot of PM..after spraying it was gone...I spray twice a week with this...this mix works great in veg an part way thru flowering...you can see the difference it makes and plants stay PM free also
spraying anything, including just water, is good for battling PM from what i've been reading. they hate a wet environment, and thrive on dry leaf surfaces; so, a foliar 1-2x per week is a great benefit against PM. I have yet to use my fulvic acid as a foliar... maybe i'll try a fulvic and aloe foliar in a few days! they'll be gettin an aloe drench as well... damn do they love that stuff.
 

youraveragehorticulturist

Well-Known Member
1 cup alfalfa meal
1 cup kelp meal
5 gallons water

I pretty much always have the alfalfa/kelp soaking in a bucket. I add some of this to fresh water, to dilute it. Usually, I use it haphazardly through veg, then for then first 2 seems or so of flower. Sometimes, if things are fading, I'll use a little as late as week 7. But no real schedule.

Last month, I got very strict about a weekly foliar of the alfalfa/kelp. Top, train, spray. Once a week, all month. I just tried to copy Darth Vapour. The alfalfa is supposed to promote tight node spacing. Kelp is for lateral braching. Mixed together they have N-P-K, most(all?) important micros, auxins and aminos. All that scientific stuff.

Anyway, it's been working. Nodes are tight, plants are bushy and wide. I didn't do any side by sides or anything, but things look great. My prettiest plants ever. I don't know if it's the foliar, or the increased attention, or some combination. But the results are great. Even if the foliar is just like a placebo-mind control, trick with no benefit, the routine that the weekly spray got me into has been great for my plants.
 

MonsterDrank

Well-Known Member
yeah Mohican turned me on to the lemon juice. im glad he did too. i saw a few spots of PM on one of my Dr. Who that i harvested yesterday. fortunately it looked like it had just gotten started, and there was very little that i found.

Are you sure that it's PM? Only saying this because Dr Who has good mold/mildew resistance. In fact right on the TGA website it says.."This strain is super powdery mildew resistant"

I've battled PM before and it's no fun. Eagle20-EW all the way. lol
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Yeah i know that it says that. I was actually really surprised when i saw it on the who. I have 2 phenos of it going. The one that shows purples is the one that has some PM on it. The one that just is like a lime green at finish (like the one on tga site picture) has no PM on it whatsoever. i inspected it heavily after i harvested the purpley one. the green pheno is taking about 4-7 extra days to finish. they are beautiful buds. the green pheno stacks up nicely, but the purpley one has the smell dominated. so sweet and sour smelling. can't wait to try it out. frosty!

that being said, these plants were totally starving for the first 3-4 weeks of their flowering period. I picked up the vegamatrix at that point when i realized that topdressing amendments in a non amended soil wasn't going to work out so well lol. so they were not the healthiest plants, and are missing a lot of leaves due to nitrogen deficiency. So i'm blaming the not so strong plant this time around. the next run i feel will be no PM. this is the first time i've seen PM in my garden in years. but it's so heavily infested in my vege garden outside this year, it's no wonder i'm seeing a little downstairs.
 

drekoushranada

Well-Known Member
spraying anything, including just water, is good for battling PM from what i've been reading. they hate a wet environment, and thrive on dry leaf surfaces; so, a foliar 1-2x per week is a great benefit against PM. I have yet to use my fulvic acid as a foliar... maybe i'll try a fulvic and aloe foliar in a few days! they'll be gettin an aloe drench as well... damn do they love that stuff.
How are you going to dose the fulvic and aloe?
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
How are you going to dose the fulvic and aloe?
the aloe i always use at 2tbsp per gallon, and the fulvic i'll just read the bottle.

i'll probably do something like a quart of total solution because i don't need more than that... so, 1.5 tsp aloe vera fresh, and i'm guessing 2.5-5ml of fulvic (.5-1tsp). i need to read the bottle though, haven't used the stuff yet! it's made by Organically Done company.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
1 cup alfalfa meal
1 cup kelp meal
5 gallons water

I pretty much always have the alfalfa/kelp soaking in a bucket. I add some of this to fresh water, to dilute it. Usually, I use it haphazardly through veg, then for then first 2 seems or so of flower. Sometimes, if things are fading, I'll use a little as late as week 7. But no real schedule.

Last month, I got very strict about a weekly foliar of the alfalfa/kelp. Top, train, spray. Once a week, all month. I just tried to copy Darth Vapour. The alfalfa is supposed to promote tight node spacing. Kelp is for lateral braching. Mixed together they have N-P-K, most(all?) important micros, auxins and aminos. All that scientific stuff.

Anyway, it's been working. Nodes are tight, plants are bushy and wide. I didn't do any side by sides or anything, but things look great. My prettiest plants ever. I don't know if it's the foliar, or the increased attention, or some combination. But the results are great. Even if the foliar is just like a placebo-mind control, trick with no benefit, the routine that the weekly spray got me into has been great for my plants.
i might start trying this on my 9lb hammer. the node spacing is way too far apart on that cut for me. but it's the only female i got to work with from that pack of seeds so i'm makin her work for now!
 

MonsterDrank

Well-Known Member
If you wanna keep it easy and simple. I would recommend you just stop what you're doing and pick up a bottle of Rosenthols Herbal Fungicide, it's really cheap and they sell it at most hydro stores.. I used it the only time I had PM.. and you can spray right up until before harvest. It will dissipate while the bud is hang drying. You'll have no PM/Mold on your buds.. the stuff does work really well. This isn't a PM cure by any means except that the combination of Potassium Bicarbonate and oils will remove it from your buds as well as create an unsuitable place for the PM to re-appear. I'd spray it on about a week before harvest and then again a few days before.. let those buds dry real good.

Unfortunately PM is a systematic disease and the plant itself will still be infected.. you'll need some Eagle 20-EW if you want to keep/cure the plant or any cuttings of PM.. otherwise that plant will probably be going to the trash. You can get Eagle 20-EW off of Ebay. You gotta be really careful when applying that stuff tho.. not to breathe it in, and to wear and cover your face and nose.. I wore a painters mask, ,heavy boots, gloves, covered myself completely.. and sprayed every inch of foliage. R-eapplied again in 2 weeks. No more PM.. ever again.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
If you wanna keep it easy and simple. I would recommend you just stop what you're doing and pick up a bottle of Rosenthols Herbal Fungicide, it's really cheap and they sell it at most hydro stores.. I used it the only time I had PM.. and you can spray right up until before harvest. It will dissipate while the bud is hang drying. You'll have no PM/Mold on your buds.. the stuff does work really well. This isn't a PM cure by any means except that it will remove it from your buds. I'd spray it on about a week before harvest and then again a few days before.. let those buds dry real good.

Unfortunately PM is a systematic disease and the plant itself will still be infected.. you'll need some Eagle 20-EW if you want to keep/cure the plant or any cuttings of PM.. otherwise that plant will probably be going to the trash. You can get Eagle 20-EW off of Ebay. You gotta be really careful when applying that stuff tho.. not to breathe it in, and to wear and cover your face and nose.. I wore a painters mask, ,heavy boots, gloves, covered myself completely.. and sprayed every inch of foliage. R-eapplied again in 2 weeks. No more PM.. ever again.
I don't spray anything on my buds. period. I'll trash them before i spray the product after 4 weeks. there was no mildew on the buds at all thankfully, and i literally found just a couple leaves on each branch where it was just starting up.

thanks, i hadn't read that its systemic. I'm going to try a Neem seed tea drench before i go the eagle 20 route. i'd rather not use stuff like that in my garden when/if have the option. environment plays a big role too. and actually i'll just get a ozone generator and have it run for 10 minutes once a day if i have to to kill spores.

i appreciate the reference for the eagle though. if give in to PM i'll get the eagle lol.

does eagle 20 kill soil fungi?
 

MonsterDrank

Well-Known Member
I usually wouldn't spray anything on them either.. but that stuff that I mentioned will completely dissipate. So it's 100% safe to do so.
And yes PM is 100% systematic.. it lives all throughout the plant. The key to not getting
PM is "the environment" of course.. getting rid of it can be a nightmare.

Good air circulation, low humidity, no rapid big up and down temp swings. Basements with cold floors and warm air are horrible this time of year, especially moving into winter. You never wanna set pots on a cold basement floor. I used to raise mine with pallets sitting on top of tarps, or milk crates when I did the basement thing. But if u have to do a basement.. a good dehum and a O3 generator helps big time.. my problem was always keeping the temperature where I wanted it. It would get too cold in the fall winter and then rise too high when the lights come on.. huge swings would create an environment PM spores would thrive in.

When I had it, I tried everything.. including Greencure.. I was at my wits end with it. Nothing worked.. the shit would come back like the plague no matter what I did. Powdery mildew fungi can develop resistance to any of the fungicides, except sulfur they say. A sulfur burner was the only thing I hadn't tried at that point.. besides the easier alternative.. Eagle20EW because that stuff actually kills the PM from inside the plant, not just outside on the leaves. Most PM treatments and cures only treat exterior symptoms. Eagle20EW's active ingrediant Myclobutanil will dissipate as well and it commonly used in the agricultural industry on fruit plants.. but takes much longer to do so.. it is only something that a grower should use during the Veg cycle. It is considered to be "for professional use only" and is hard to get in some states. But I tell you what.. it works better than anything I have ever seen in my life on PM.

When I had PM.. my friends had PM.. my local buddies... cuz we of course swap clones and I like to give them things. So naturally.. next thing I know the whole neighborhood has PM. It was a lot of spraying that week.. but alas.. it was gone.. Never had PM since.

Re: the Ozone Generator.. I actually have a really good one of those.. it's not going to help you cure PM.. but is good to run regardless if it helps keep your environment in check as a preventative option. I love mine and is nice for musty smelling basements or anywhere that smells lol. But I wouldn't rely on it for PM treatment.

Just trying to help..cuz I fought that battle and won that war. It was hell.

What was equally as hellish was the troves of organic gardeners from the forums ganging up on me yelling at me for advocating the use of Eagle20EW.. lol.. some of those old timers ROLS people and whatever u wanna call them... the nature people... they go crazy when you advocate a chemical or something that comes out of a bottle with a caution label that over exposure to "said chemical".... over a period of many years ,studies shows that workers in a grape field from blah, blah California... had prolonged exposure to said chemical from spraying it regularly and for many many years.. leading to believe that could Myclobutanil could cause cancer." So this of course leads to the inevitable people just writing it off and saying iggnorant things like ... DONT USE EAGLE20EW.. IT CAUSES CANCER!!! and shit like that... you know how people can get...

Truth be told.. if you burn your breakfast toast or cook it too brown.. the black dark spots on the top of the toast is also carcinogenic. It's the truth. Acrylamide, which is produced when sugars and certain amino acids, the building blocks of proteins are heated together during the cooking process.. and that is a carcinogen.

So.. I tell the Organic people.. I'll give up on Eagle20EW when they give up on toast. And we usually have a stalemate.

Re: you asking if it kills Fungi on soil.. it is only meant to be used on turf.. so plants only.. I would recommend taking clones of your plant.. even if in flower.. and treating those.. and ditching the rest of it.
 
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ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
I usually wouldn't spray anything on them either.. but that stuff that I mentioned will completely dissipate. So it's 100% safe to do so.
And yes PM is 100% systematic.. it lives all throughout the plant. The key to not getting it is environment of course.. getting rid of it can be a nightmare.

When I had it, I tried everything.. including Greencure.. I was at my wits end with it. Nothing worked.. the shit would come back like the plague no matter what I did. Powdery mildew fungi can develop resistance to any of the fungicides, except sulfur they say. A sulfur burner was the only thing I hadn't tried at that point.. besides the easier alternative.. Eagle20EW because that stuff actually kills the PM from inside the plant, not just outside on the leaves. Most PM treatments and cures only treat exterior symptoms. Eagle20EW's active ingrediant Myclobutanil will dissipate as well and it commonly used in the agricultural industry on fruit plants.. but takes much longer to do so.. it is only something that a grower should use during the Veg cycle. It is considered to be "for professional use only" and is hard to get in some states. But I tell you what.. it works better than anything I have ever seen in my life on PM.

When I had PM.. my friends had PM.. my local buddies... cuz we of course swap clones and I like to give them things. So naturally.. next thing I know the whole neighborhood has PM. It was a lot of spraying that week.. but alas.. it was gone.. Never had PM since.

Re: the Ozone Generator.. I actually have a really good one of those.. it's not going to help you cure PM.. but is good to run regardless if it helps keep your environment in check as a preventative option. I love mine and is nice for musty smelling basements or anywhere that smells lol. But I wouldn't rely on it for PM treatment.

Just trying to help..cuz I fought that battle and won that war. It was hell.

What was equally as hellish was the troves of organic gardeners from the forums ganging up on me yelling at me for advocating the use of Eagle20EW.. lol.. some of those old timers ROLS people and whatever u wanna call them... the nature people... they go crazy when you advocate a chemical or something that comes out of a bottle with a caution label that over exposure to "said chemical".... over a period of many years ,studies shows that workers in a grape field from blah, blah California... had prolonged exposure to said chemical from spraying it regularly and for many many years.. leading to believe that could Myclobutanil could cause cancer." So this of course leads to the inevitable people just writing it off and saying iggnorant things like ... DONT USE EAGLE20EW.. IT CAUSES CANCER!!! and shit like that... you know how people can get...

Truth be told.. if you burn your breakfast toast or cook it too brown.. the black dark spots on the top of the toast is also carcinogenic. It's the truth. Acrylamide, which is produced when sugars and certain amino acids, the building blocks of proteins are heated together during the cooking process.. and that is a carcinogen.

So.. I tell the Organic people.. I'll give up on Eagle20EW when they give up on toast. And we usually have a stalemate.

Re: you asking if it kills Fungi on soil.. it is only meant to be used on turf.. so plants only.. I would recommend taking clones of your plant.. even if in flower.. and treating those.. and ditching the rest of it.
well fortunately for me my whole catalog is in veg right now, i'm getting ready to rebuild flower room, my last plant comes down in a couple days. my whole veg room is every strain i have lol.

i know i'm being literal, but the word is "systemic", not "systematic".

i'm going to do more research on the disease before i use the eagle. shit is pricey to boot. and honestly... i hate to send one fucking penny to DOW agro...

and I said fungi IN soil, not ON soil... big difference as I am a "living soil" gardener now. so i can't use a product that kills beneficials. I am confident that the health of my plants and control of my environment with my new room will rid me of my PM problems.

EDIT: i guess the only way i would even consider using it, which is the most effective and SAFEST and CLEANEST way to use the eagle 20 would be to take cuts, and hold them upside down, and dip them in the foliar liquid instead of spraying it all over the place. this would treat my plants without having to use eagle in the sprayer.

however since it is a systemic fungicide, it may prohibit my plant from forming relationships with endo and ecto mycorrhizal fungi and that monster, is definitely a no go.
 
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MonsterDrank

Well-Known Member
well fortunately for me my whole catalog is in veg right now, i'm getting ready to rebuild flower room, my last plant comes down in a couple days. my whole veg room is every strain i have lol.
perfect!

i know i'm being literal, but the word is "systemic", not "systematic".
No you're right. I'm just speaking off the top of my head.. so I fek up every now and then. LOL Not to mention.. I literally am having brain/neuro surgery in less than 48 hours.. so I am a little out of it.. head is cloudy.

and I said fungi IN soil, not ON soil... big difference as I am a "living soil" gardener now. so i can't use a product that kills beneficials. I am confident that the health of my plants and control of my environment with my new room will rid me of my PM problems.
ohhhh you're one of those.

I can't relate to that really..I consider myself an urban grower.. I mix Just Right Xtra a coco based mix that contains a variety of other organic ingredients, FFOF, some Perlite, some Azomite, and voila.. my soil. I use Botanicare KIND nutes which are organic based and fresh soil that I mix every time I grow.. use once.. transplant once.. throw away every cycle. I keep things real simple. I gotta be discreet where I am and do my best to stay low key. No super soil or composting.. nothing like that. But I have pulled off some amazing harvests using my methodology.

I amend with organic substances throughout my grow and add things like guanos, teas, EW castings, mycorrhizae, and now this new stuff that I am falling in love with called Rhizo Blast which is a Chlorella algae root stimulator. I use it as a foiliar as well as a root drench. The plants are going crazy over this stuff.

I wouldn't imagine Eagle 20EW would kill microbes. But I'm sure google has the answer somewhere.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
perfect!



No you're right. I'm just speaking off the top of my head.. so I fek up every now and then. LOL Not to mention.. I literally am having brain/neuro surgery in less than 48 hours.. so I am a little out of it.. head is cloudy.



ohhhh you're one of those.

I can't relate to that really..I consider myself an urban grower.. I mix Just Right Xtra a coco based mix that contains a variety of other organic ingredients, FFOF, some Perlite, some Azomite, and voila.. my soil. I use Botanicare KIND nutes which are organic based and fresh soil that I mix every time I grow.. use once.. transplant once.. throw away every cycle. I keep things real simple. I gotta be discreet where I am and do my best to stay low key. No super soil or composting.. nothing like that. But I have pulled off some amazing harvests using my methodology.

I amend with organic substances throughout my grow and add things like guanos, teas, EW castings, mycorrhizae, and now this new stuff that I am falling in love with called Rhizo Blast which is a Chlorella algae root stimulator. I use it as a foiliar as well as a root drench. The plants are going crazy over this stuff.

I wouldn't imagine Eagle 20EW would kill microbes. But I'm sure google has the answer somewhere.
not a question of microbes... question of fungus in the soil.... and it is a fungicide... so i'm imagining it does.

yeah i'm one of those guys. I used to use what I thought were organic products, but in reality they are still full of chelators and other things. I'm done with that. I want my soil to live! :)

I build my soil from scratch, individual ingredients, and understand how and why it works. I'm tired of throwing away soil. gettin into the 20gal no till containers and i will also be doing 7gal living soil single runs, and recycling that soil for future grows. your soil in organics is your biggest and most important investment. you get the soil right, and the plant grows itself. i'm not even worried about the plant anymore. i'm worried about the soil, and keeping it alive and healthy! I want to be a more sustainable grower too. what happens when the hydro stores disappear because of bullshit laws, or worse, monsanto (yes he's got his hands in the hydro world). i'll have my soil and natural ingredients that are easy to obtain to amend it and i'll be laughin it up!

I've grown plenty of buds in my 5 years doing this, and the more i make this switch to real organic growing, the better my final product has become with every harvest. the initial investment, as with any grow, is the biggest expense. but once you get one of everything... you have a lot of amended soil.

as they say, to each his own. we all achieve the results we are individually looking for in the end. just different ways to get there for different folks.
 
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