First time grower just after bit of advice to see if my set up is ok .....

Stevieh

Well-Known Member
Hi peeps. :)
Ok got 4 clones off a mates mate Defo good weed pity dont no strain , and clones were already rooted in small pots, I move to 10 litre 1s now with just verve multi purpose compost out b&q with no perlite in ,my grow tent is 2.5m long x 650 wide x 2.5 high, using 400w high sudiom light and reflected got 2 HFL lamps with 480 lumin each just table lamps pointed at plants 2 inch away , mist every day , use biogrow fert and water every day , add 4ml to 2liter bottles ...... Everything seems to be going well .... But been reading about topping and super cropping is it worth trying any of these ....Any info about what can improve or if everything's fine , thanks :peace:
 

moggggys

Well-Known Member
no perlite ya tight bastard !!!!

sounds ok so far , not a fan of 400`s but you go with what you have aye

as for training wellllllllllllllllll it all depends , you train for vbrs reasons and its only approprite at that point , if the bastards gotten to big you bend it , if its growing like a stick you take the top out a couple of times to encourage side grown ifffffffff its room appropriate , you bend the beast all the way over to create a screen without a screen ( if ya get me ) ...... it all depends , given you have no idea if the clones will be bushy or not its not really advised to wizz the top out as you may end up with a bush that needs thinning out and you will have pissed a few weeks time away for no reason

so best bet is to wait and see , a run before you walk type of thing

oh and given you a tight fucker , ionic grow to start um then switch to vita link a+b with a bit of ionic bloom after the second week of flower , cant feed a plant cheaper than that and get decent results
 

spek9

Well-Known Member
Don't water every day. The soil needs to dry out between waterings, especially with no perlite. I was watering every day thinking I was doing a good thing, but after I found my groove, I water between every three and four days (most of my 3 gal pots are completely dry by then). I do nutes on one feed (I'm in flower now), and water the next, and do a foliar spray of pH'd CalMag spray in between if I start to see any leaves going a bit sideways.

For water, you need to pH it. This is very important. If you're not using distilled water, leave your tap water out for 24 hours to let the chlorine evaporate, then get a pH tester (and calibration liquid), and pH to between 6.5 and 7 (I personally go with 6.4... my girls seem to be content there).

Also, you'd be better suited with a Metal Halide lamp for this stage, unless you've gone right to flower. Although a High Pressure Sodium (HPS) will work for veg, it is no where near as efficient as a MH.

What are your temperatures? You are going to have to consider ventilation and odor control. Showing pics will help you get better feedback.

Topping (and FIM'ing) are ways to make your plant bushier. Essentially you're clipping the top of the plant off, and that will create two (or four) colas instead of the normal one. I've never done much research on supercropping, so someone with experience there might be able to help.

-spek
 

Stevieh

Well-Known Member
Don't water every day. The soil needs to dry out between waterings, especially with no perlite. I was watering every day thinking I was doing a good thing, but after I found my groove, I water between every three and four days (most of my 3 gal pots are completely dry by then). I do nutes on one feed (I'm in flower now), and water the next, and do a foliar spray of pH'd CalMag spray in between if I start to see any leaves going a bit sideways.

For water, you need to pH it. This is very important. If you're not using distilled water, leave your tap water out for 24 hours to let the chlorine evaporate, then get a pH tester (and calibration liquid), and pH to between 6.5 and 7 (I personally go with 6.4... my girls seem to be content there).

Also, you'd be better suited with a Metal Halide lamp for this stage, unless you've gone right to flower. Although a High Pressure Sodium (HPS) will work for veg, it is no where near as efficient as a MH.

What are your temperatures? You are going to have to consider ventilation and odor control. Showing pics will help you get better feedback.

Topping (and FIM'ing) are ways to make your plant bushier. Essentially you're clipping the top of the plant off, and that will create two (or four) colas instead of the normal one. I've never done much research on supercropping, so someone with experience there might be able to help.

-spek


my room temp is 73 , 80 no fans in room but few gaps in white plastic sheeting I made tent with and in well ventilated attic with vents both side on soffits will just need to see how lovely the odor gets first then will ask of ways to help with that how do I post pics ..? Thanks
 

spek9

Well-Known Member
In your posting window, to the right of the font options at the top, there are a few coloured buttons... the emoticons, two for links, then the green button with the tree is for uploading pictures from your computer or the web.

Cheers,

-spek
 

Stevieh

Well-Known Member
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

Sorted :) thanks ......

What you think ...?
And should I changed from biogrow to bio loom when flowering or will the biogrow just be as good...?

thanks for feed back..
 

Stevieh

Well-Known Member
no perlite ya tight bastard !!!!

sounds ok so far , not a fan of 400`s but you go with what you have aye

as for training wellllllllllllllllll it all depends , you train for vbrs reasons and its only approprite at that point , if the bastards gotten to big you bend it , if its growing like a stick you take the top out a couple of times to encourage side grown ifffffffff its room appropriate , you bend the beast all the way over to create a screen without a screen ( if ya get me ) ...... it all depends , given you have no idea if the clones will be bushy or not its not really advised to wizz the top out as you may end up with a bush that needs thinning out and you will have pissed a few weeks time away for no reason

so best bet is to wait and see , a run before you walk type of thing

oh and given you a tight fucker , ionic grow to start um then switch to vita link a+b with a bit of ionic bloom after the second week of flower , cant feed a plant cheaper than that and get decent results


Thanks for that man useful info :)
 

Stevieh

Well-Known Member
Don't water every day. The soil needs to dry out between waterings, especially with no perlite. I was watering every day thinking I was doing a good thing, but after I found my groove, I water between every three and four days (most of my 3 gal pots are completely dry by then). I do nutes on one feed (I'm in flower now), and water the next, and do a foliar spray of pH'd CalMag spray in between if I start to see any leaves going a bit sideways.

For water, you need to pH it. This is very important. If you're not using distilled water, leave your tap water out for 24 hours to let the chlorine evaporate, then get a pH tester (and calibration liquid), and pH to between 6.5 and 7 (I personally go with 6.4... my girls seem to be content there).

Also, you'd be better suited with a Metal Halide lamp for this stage, unless you've gone right to flower. Although a High Pressure Sodium (HPS) will work for veg, it is no where near as efficient as a MH.

What are your temperatures? You are going to have to consider ventilation and odor control. Showing pics will help you get better feedback.

Topping (and FIM'ing) are ways to make your plant bushier. Essentially you're clipping the top of the plant off, and that will create two (or four) colas instead of the normal one. I've never done much research on supercropping, so someone with experience there might be able to help.

-spek
i ph my water then add biogrow is this right or should add bio grow first then ph...?
also should I switch to bio bloom when going into flowering ..?
thanks
 
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